The Rediscovered Bean.

Soybeans have been part of nourishing meals for a long time. Specialty dishes based on soy were part of Chinese cuisine before Christ. One use of soy, the art of tofu making, began with the Chinese and migrated to Japan with Buddhist monks well before the 1500s. In the 1800s Chinese immigrants came to America seeking steady work, mainly with the railroads. Tofu shops emerged around these tracks to meet the need for traditional tastes among the workers. As the population grew, restaurants sprang up that served "bean curd," as tofu is often called.

It wasn't until the 1970s that tofu gained a general level of popularity in the United States. Health-conscious baby boomers of that era began the resurgence of general interest in a food of exceptional nutritional value that had been used by certain populations for centuries.

In the 1930s tofu acquired the nickname "meat without bones" in recognition of its excellent protein quality. The amino acid profile is comparable to meat. Now it is touted as a good source of calcium. Do read the label to be sure the bean curd was processed with a calcium salt or the product is fortified with calcium. Soybeans by themselves are not outstanding sources of calcium, containing less than half as much per serving as a serving of skim milk.

Eye-catching news appears in the popular press often spelling out new health benefits from soy. Soy's isoflavones are credited with lowering the risk for cancer, heart disease, osteoporosis, and hot flashes. Genistein, the most abundant isoflavone in soy, and daidzein, also in soy, are among hundreds found in plants. These isoflavones are phytoestrogens (phyto meaning plant). Perhaps their benefit comes from a role similar to that which estrogen plays in protecting women's health prior to menopause.

Tofu is an easy means for adding a health-promoting food (soy) to the diet. It may be purchased at most supermarkets in the United States. Look for it in the refrigerated section of the grocery if it is water-packed; on the shelf if it is pasteurized, vacuum-packed. Handle it as you would a dairy product. Pay attention to the package expiration dates and be sure to keep it refrigerated. Drain water-packed tofu daily and replace with fresh water. Do not use if a pink or green color or sour smell develops.

Packages of tofu read "extra firm," "firm," "soft," and "silken." The descriptions are an indication of the amount of water in the cube. Extra firm has been pressed to remove as much water as possible. Use it in recipes to replace sliced or cubed meat, as it has a consistency similar to meat. Freeze it prior to use to achieve an even more meatlike chewing quality.

Either extra firm or firm will hold its shape well for stir-fry or pan frying, in stews, casseroles, or as a filling to be stuffed. The extra firm may be sliced like cheese. The soft tofu has a consistency more like cottage cheese and lends itself to desserts (puddings, parfaits), soups, dips, dressings, or recipes that call for crumbled cheese. Silken tofu is even softer with more water in the cube. A handy measure comparison to remember when cooking with tofu is that one pound equals two cups.

The recommended 30-50 milligrams of isoflavones per day from soy may come in the form of soy milk, tempeh, miso, grits, or tofu. The following recipes are tasty means for adding phytoestrogens (needed by both men and women) to your menus.

Shepherd's Pie

4 large potatoes
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 t. salt
1 cup calcium-fortified soy milk
1/2 t. McKay's Chicken-Style Seasoning
1/3 cup water
2 onions, chopped
1 yellow bell pepper, chunked
1 large carrot, sliced
1 stalk celery, diced
2 cups mushrooms, diced
1 15-ounce can stewed tomatoes
1 15-ounce can kidney beans
1 package brown G. Washington broth
1 T. parsley flakes

Peel potatoes, dice, and boil in water with garlic and salt until tender. Drain. Mash with enough soy milk to spread easily. Set aside. In saucepan, combine McKay's seasoning and water. Add vegetables, beans, and G. Washington broth and simmer until vegetables are crisp-tender. Preheat oven to 350 [degrees] F. Place vegetable, bean, and broth mixture in a 9" x 13" casserole. Spread mashed potatoes over the top. Sprinkle with parsley flakes. Bake for 30 minutes. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 164; protein: 7; carbohydrate: 33 grams; fat: 1 gram; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Pasta Primavera

1 T. olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups mushrooms, sliced
1 red bell pepper, chunked
2 5-inch zucchinis, sliced
1/3 cup parsley, minced
1 t. Italian seasoning
3 large tomatoes, diced
1/2 t. salt
2 T. margarine, melted
1/3 cup flour
2 cups calcium-fortified soy milk
1/4 t. onion powder
1/2 t. garlic powder
1/2 t. salt
8 ounces pasta (penne, fettuccine, spaghetti, etc.)
1/3 cup sliced almonds

Saute onion and garlic in oil. Add mushrooms, pepper, zucchinis, parsley, seasoning, tomatoes, and salt. Simmer until vegetables are crisp-tender. In another saucepan, make white sauce of margarine, flour, milk, onion and garlic powders, and salt; use wire whisk to stir in flour and milk to prevent lumps. Cook pasta according to package directions. On large serving platter, top cooked pasta with vegetables, white sauce, and finally sliced almonds. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 213; protein: 7 grams; carbohydrate: 28 grams; fat: 9 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Creamy Tofu Over Pasta

8 ounces pasta
  (bows, macaroni, fettuccine)
1 T. olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 red bell pepper, chunked
2 cups mushrooms, sliced
2 T. parsley, diced
1/4 t. thyme
1/2 t. basil
1/3 cup flour
2 cups calcium-fortified soy milk
1/2 pound tofu, crumbled
1 cup peas
1/2 t. salt

Cook pasta according to package directions. In separate pan, saute onion and garlic in olive oil. Add bell pepper, mushrooms, parsley, thyme, and basil; saute until crisp-tender. In blender, process flour, soy milk, and tofu until creamy. Pour over vegetable mixture and cook until just thickened. Add peas and salt and heat through. Place cooked pasta on large serving platter. Top with vegetable and tofu mixture. Serve hot. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 162; protein: 8 grams; carbohydrate: 24 grams; fat: 4 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Barbecued Meatballs

1 cup water
1 cup dehydrated, diced
  Textured Vegetable Protein (TVP)
2 onions, finely chopped
2 1/2 cups walnuts, chopped
1/2 cup cornflake crumbs
1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1/2 t. garlic powder
1/2 t. salt
1/2 t. Wrights' liquid smoke
1 pound tofu, crumbled
2 T. Ener-G Egg Replacer(*)
2 T. water

Boil water; remove from heat and add TVP. Rehydrate TVP for 30 minutes. Mix all ingredients except TVP and nuts with flat beater attached to an electric mixer. Thoroughly beat at as high a speed as possible without splattering. When finished, add TVP and nuts; mix to disperse TVP and nuts. Form into small 1-inch balls (a No. 70 scoop is recommended). Place on parchment paper on sheet pan, or spray cookie sheet with nonstick cooking spray. Bake at 350 [degrees] F for 30 minutes, until set but not dry. Pour your favorite brown gravy, spaghetti sauce, sweet-sour sauce, or BBQ sauce over meatballs; cover. Bake 30 minutes at 350 [degrees] F. Uncover the last 10 minutes. Yield: 90 1-inch meatballs; serves 18-22. Calories per meatball: 23; protein: 1 gram; carbohydrate: 2 grams; fat: 2 grams; cholesterol: 0 grams.

(*) Ener-G Egg Replacer is available from Ener-G Foods, Inc., P.O. Box 84487, Seattle, WA 98124-5787, Phone: [phone]. However, if the product is very well mixed with a flat beater, the egg replacer may not be necessary.

Onion Dip

1 pound tofu
2 T. oil
2 T. lemon juice
2 t. sugar
1 package dry onion soup mix

In blender, process all ingredients until smooth. Allow to marinate for several hours to enhance the flavor. Yield: 2 3/4 cups. Calories per 1/4 cup: 68; protein: 4 grams; fat: 5 grams; carbohydrate: 4 grams.

Creamy Italian Dressing

1/2 pound tofu
2 T. olive oil
2 T. lemon juice
4 garlic cloves
1 t. salt
1/4 t. basil
1/4 t. oregano
1/4 t. thyme

In blender, process tofu, oil, lemon juice, and garlic. Add seasonings; mix thoroughly Let stand several hours to enhance flavor. Yields: 1 1/4cups. Calories per tablespoon: 21; protein: 1 gram; fat: 2 grams; carbohydrate: 0 grams.

Tofu Potato Salad

6 potatoes, cooked and cubed
1 cup tofu, crumbled
1 cup celery, sliced
1/2 cup red onion, chopped
  cup dill pickle, diced
1 cucumber, sliced
1 t. salt
1 cup tofu
2 T. oil
1/2 t. salt
2 T. liquid from dill pickles
1 T. lemon juice
1/8 t. garlic powder

Boil potatoes in salted water until soft. In large mixing bowl, combine potatoes, 1 cup tofu, celery, onion, pickle, cucumber, and salt. In blender, whiz dressing of second measure of tofu, oil, salt, pickle juice, lemon juice, and garlic powder. Add dressing to potato mixture and combine gently. Chill and serve. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 170; protein: 7 grams; carbohydrate: 24 grams; fat: 6 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Coconut Pie

1 baked 9-inch graham cracker crust
1 1/2 pounds tofu
1 1/2 cups powdered sugar
1/4 cup oil
1 T. vanilla
1/2 t. salt
1 1/2 cups dried, sweetened coconut
1/4 cup dried, sweetened coconut

Heat oven to 350 [degrees] F. Blend tofu, sugar, oil, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Fold in 1 1/2 cups coconut. Pour into prebaked pieshell. Bake 15 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining coconut. Bake an additional 5 minutes or until filling looks firm and set. Serve chilled. Serves: 8. Calories per serving: 450; protein: 8 grams; carbohydrate: 50 grams; fat: 26 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams. (Skip the crust to cut the calories by 155.)

RELATED ARTICLE: Minestrone

1 pound tofu
3 T. soysauce
1/2 t. garlic powder
2 T. olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large carrot, sliced
1 5-inch zucchini, sliced
1 28-ounce can stewed tomatoes
4 cups water
2 cups tomato juice
2 t. basil
1 t. oregano
1/4 t. garlic powder
1/2 t. salt
3 ounces tiny pasta
  (shells, bows, etc.)
1 15-ounce can kidney beans

Freeze tofu; thaw, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks. Heat oven to 350 [degrees] F. Mix soy sauce and garlic powder; squeeze into tofu chunks. Bake on oiled cookie sheet for 10 minutes; turn and hake for 5 minutes. Set aside. In sauce pan, saute onion and garlic in oil, add carrots and zucchini and continue sauteing until crisp-tender. Add tomatoes, water, tomato juice, seasonings, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add pasta and simmer for 5 more minutes; add beans and browned tofu chunks. Heat through. Serve hot. Serves: 10 one-cup servings. Calories per serving: 152; protein: 8 grams; carbohydrate: 25 grams; fat: 4 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

RELATED ARTICLE: Scrambled Tofu

1 T. olive oil
1/2 cup red hell pepper chunks
2 green onions, sliced
1/2cup bean sprouts
1 pound tofu, crumbled
1/2t. McKay's Chicken-Style
  Seasoning
1/2 t. soy sauce

Saute bell pepper and onions in heated oil. Add remaining ingredients and brown slightly. Serve hot. Serves: 6. Calories per serving: 82; protein: 7 grams; carbohydrate: 3 grams; fat: 5 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Barry Glendrange

RELATED ARTICLE: Tofu Cornbread

1 1/4 cup yellow cornmeal
3/4 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
2 t. baking powder
1/2 t. sugar
1/2 t. salt
3/4 cup calcium-fortified soy milk or skim milk
1 cup tofu, crumbled
1 1/2 t. Ener-G Egg Replacer or 1 egg
1/4 cup oil

Stir together cornmeal, flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt in mixing bowl. Place milk, tofu, egg replacer or egg, and oil in blender. Blend for 10 seconds on low speed. Pour liquid from blender into cornmeal mixture. Combine gently. Pour mixture into greased square metal cake pan. Bake at 425 [degrees] F for 25-30 minutes. Serves: 9. Calories per serving: 175; protein: 5 grams; carbohydrate: 21 grams; fat: 8 grams; cholesterol: 0 milligrams.

Georgia E. Hodgkin, Ed.D., R.D., F.A.D.A., is an associate professor in the Department of Nutrition and Dietetics in the School of Allied Health Professions at Loma Linda University, Loma Linda, California.