The Belvedere.

I am always looking for new restaurants to entertain clients or friends. Several weeks ago, I decided to return to The Belvedere at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. The ambience is great there and it is truly one of the few L.A. restaurants where one can easily have a conversation with the entire table, even if you are a party of six.

The decor at The Belvedere is elegantly serene, with wonderful French doors that open to the outdoor terrace. The mood is elegant, but not stuffy. They serve creative, beautifully presented, contemporary cuisine.

Bill Bracken oversees the food and beverage for the hotel and it was Bracken who designed the menu, which is now being beautifully executed by Executive Chef Sean Hardy. Hardy has worked alongside Bracken in The Peninsula's kitchen for many years.

One of my favorite items on the menu is the smoked salmon. It is smoked in-house and this makes such a difference from the store-bought variety used by many restaurants. It is served on a crisp scallion pancake with chive creme fraiche and caviar. The pan-seared Nantucket bay scallops with white corn, chanterelles, and celery hearts were delicately prepared and served to near perfection. Those searching for a little comfort food need look no further than the Macaroni and Cheese, which may be ordered as a starter, "small bite," or main course. It is to die for: elbow pasta married with Taleggio cheese, shaved black truffles, and a parmesan tulle. Without a doubt, this is the best "Mac 'n Cheese" in town.

Frequently, the Chef will send out small whimsical bites in between courses. A recent delicacy was a medley of warm French lentils served with a delicate ensemble of root vegetables and smoked duck. These small amusements add to the dining experience without bombarding the diner with too much food.

The service is attentive, but not intrusive, I normally prefer to order my own wine without assistance, lint I was curious as to what the sommelier would recommend to go with my John Dory. I was pleasantly surprised when he suggested the Prieur Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes. Many restaurants would have chosen an Australian or California Chardonnay. The Puligny-Montrachet was a perfect match for my fish. The John Dory was beautifully executed. It was baked with bay leaf and citrus. It was presented with shaved white asparagus and grapefruit. The wine had enough acidity to complement the fish and had a wonderful finish. This Puligny-Montrachet was released a couple years ago at $85, so I found the $125 price tag at the The Belvedere to be quite fair. There is certainly plenty, on the wine list to please everyone. It includes everything from a moderately priced Pouilly Fuisse ($44) to Angelo Gaja's special Chardonnay, called "Gaja and Rey."

Ideal wine pairing is made painless with a wide variety of wines by the glass, including some knockout selections. Very few restaurants allow you to order a glass of Dom Perignon to go with your smoked salmon starter, a Kistler Chardonnay to accompany your macaroni and cheese, and then a glass of Tignanello to pair with Kobe-style rib eye. The markup on the wines is quite reasonable and the list contains such noteworthy producers as William-Selyem, Turley, Peter Michael, Beaucastel, Romanee-Conti, and first-growth Bordeaux.

Looking back to my recent meals at The Belvedere, I could order the veal Chateaubriand every time I visit. It is truffle roasted with potatoes cooked twice and forest mushrooms. It is one of the most tendr and juicy cuts of veal I have ever tasted. The lightly creamed sauce with the black trumpet mushrooms enhances (but does not overwhelm) the dish. I chose a Gary Farrell "Rochioli"-Allen Pinot Noir to accompany the veal. This Pinot also proved to be a perfect match for my guests' free-range breast of chicken with roasted shallot sauce.

The desserts are creatively presented. One of my guests tried the chocolate pyramid with creme brulee center and milk-chocolate sorbet. She passed it around the table for others to try. It was so good that it never made it back to her. Warm, freshly baked cookies are served with a bottle of ice-cold milk and the sampling of mini sorbets and ice creams are served in tiny cups that are set on a candelabra type of stand--a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.

Just steps from The Belvedere, The Club Bar is a terrific place to enjoy a night cap. It has all the key ingredients--a warm setting with wood-paneled walls, cozy banquettes--and it is especially nice to sit aside the fireplace.

When your travels bring you to Los Angeles, or like me, a local looking for consistent high-quality cuisine and impeccable service, I recommend The Belvedere. It is one of the few restaurants where you can still dine elegantly and converse with your guests.

The veal Chateaubriand is waiting and I can't wait to go back!