That's Amarone.

For those oenophiles with a special affinity for Italian wines, I can recommend those produced by the Boscaini family. The family vineyards are in the heart of the classical Valpolicella region, and they have been making wine since 1772. Headed by president Dario Boscaini, the belief that quality begins in the vineyard supports their dedication to the rigorous selection of grapes grown in the micro-areas in the Veneto and Alto Adige.

Following are wines tasted at a recent luncheon with corresponding tasting notes.

Pinot Grigio, La Cros: While not a fan of Pinot Grigio, I quickly became a convert. It was so enjoyable I offered it as the featured white wine of the month at the Racquet Club. It quickly became the club's "house" Pinot Grigio. For those Pinot Grigio fans who must suffer drinking insipid, translucent liquid with barely a whiff of anything resembling grapes (as most Pinot Grigios tend to be), this Pinot Grigio is a pleasant surprise and a fine "quaffer." The grapes are grown on hillside vineyards that slope toward the Adige River in Avio. It has an aromatic bouquet, very fresh and crisp with good acidity, delicate flavors, fruity, but more complex than most Pinot Grigios. At approximately $8 a bottle it is a fine value. It matches well with fish, particularly with shell fish; chicken; and light dishes.

Amarone. This is the flagship wine of the Boscaini wine portfolio. Amarone is unique in that the grapes (known as raisins) are dried for three months (November, December, and January) after harvest in October and then crushed. All throughout the Valpolicella region you will find, during the three month drying period, bunches of grapes drying on bamboo racks in the attics of people living in the region. During the drying period the grapes lose 30-40 percent of their weight, while the sugar, color, and extract all become more concentrated. The increase in the glycerin level, favored by the controlled incidence of noble rot, Botrytis Cinerea, among the grapes gives the resulting wine a remarkably-soft flavor. Another unique aspect of Amarone is that the Botrytis works from the inside-out rather than from the outside-in, which occurs in the Barsac and Sauternes regions of France.

Amarone Di Marano: The Marano Valpolicella Classico Superiore D.O.C. vineyard has been owned by the family for over 100 years. It is located on a hill called Coston in the center of the historic Valpolicella Classico zone. The grape varietals used to produce this Amarone include Molinara, Corvina, and Rondinella. Harvest starts in mid-October with the cutting of select bunches of grapes, (recioti) which are carefully placed in small wooden crates and then carried to the drying sheds where they will dry until January.

The grapes are then crushed. The must is then slowly fermented on the skins (lees) in large wooden casks until March. It is aged in oak barrels for four years and then rests one year in the bottle before release. A caveat for those not familiar with Amarone: the wine has the unique flavors of prunes or raisins in addition to very ripe, dark cherry flavors. It also has spice; a warm, (the result of 14 percent alcohol) velvety finish; and great complexity with layers of flavor. It is a very intense but approachable wine. This Amarone will match well with roasted meats, pasta, and cheese. For a wine of this nobility and quality, usually offered at around $30 per bottle, it too is an outstanding value.

Amarone, Ca' De Loi: A very distinctive Amarone, it is made from grapes that come from a small vineyard in the Marano valley that has been renowned since the Middle Ages (it was owned by the DeLupi Lords in the 14th Century) for the quality of its grapes. The naturally-low yield per hectare allows the winery to obtain loosely-packed bunches that are particularly suitable for drying. Notable characteristics of the vineyard are the considerable age of the vines--35-years old--as well as the cordon spur-pruned, single-winged Pergola system and the growing of grass between vines. This superb Amarone is produced only in the very best vintages. This is an esoteric wine with great concentration and complex flavors featuring dark berry fruit and hints of toast, finishing with great finesse. It is a wonderful match for hearty foods such as grilled red meats, game, and mature cheeses, or with chocolate after dinner.

Santo Stefano--This style of wine is derived from ancient winemaking techniques or re-fermentation, which give it greater color and structure as well as higher alcohol content. It is an exclusive product of the Boscaini family that first involves normal fermentation with fresh grapes in October and then re-fermentation in January or February on the lees (skins) of the recioto (Amarone). The resulting wine is complex and velvety with a slight "amarognolo" flavor (taste of bitter almond, also found in Amarone) in the aftertaste. Matches well with Indian curries, Thai chicken, and cilantro-spiced dishes.

Dirada Merlot: The term Dirada refers to a vine from which the excess bunches have been removed, thereby increasing the quality of those that are best exposed to sunlight. These grapes are the most healthy but have the highest sugar level. In Italian viticulture parlance this technique is known as "diradamento." In the Dirada Merlot it brings the vine's varietal characteristics, concentration, and fruit to the fore, while preserving the easy drinking style that is typical of Veneto's wines. This Merlot offers much to like at an inexpensive level (around $8). There is purity of fruit, bright red berry flavors, and a velvety texture that is easy to drink. In a blind tasting you can "fool" tasters, for this wine is much better than many of the California Merlots in the same price category.

Fittingly, the conclusion of the wine tasting and luncheon consisted of a sampling of their Grappa Di Marano (for the uninitiated it is somewhat akin to a mixture of white lighting and/or grain alcohol in its ability to cause shortness of breath). It is a very powerful eau de vie, always clear, made from the distillation of lees from the Amarone. It is unique in flavor and served "neat." It should be consumed in small quantities and even smaller sips.

I like it somewhat chilled. Once the smoke clears--and the shortness of breath abates and the explosion in the cranium subsides--it is really outstanding.

Grappa is very distinctive, with flavors differing among the many that are available. This is attributed to the distillation process, as grappa is produced by extracting alcohol from "vinacce," which refers to the skins and seeds left in the fermentation tanks after the wine is placed in casks. The vinacce is steamed in copper cauldrons and the resulting water-alcohol slurry called flemma condenses on the inside of the cauldron and trickles into holding casks. The liquid is then piped to distillation columns, allowing the distillers to separate the grappa from the methanol that is produced during distillation. The grappa is then either placed in used casks to enhance the grappa or is bottled. Each grappa is different in that it reflects the flavors of the grapes from which it is produced.