TUX TIPS FOR UP-AND-CUMMER(BUND)S.

Byline: Staff and Wire Services

When in doubt about black-tie rules, turn to the experts. Here's a round-up of rules, tips and suggestions from menswear experts.

Standard black tie: A jacket with a satin or grosgrain peak lapel (for young and trendy types) or shawl collar (flatters larger, older men) and pants with matching stripe down the side. A simple pleated white shirt with French cuffs requiring simple gold cuff links. Also wear a bow tie and matching vest or cummerbund if the jacket is single-breasted. Wearing a double-breasted jacket? Always keep it buttoned.

Creative black tie: Not to be confused with the term ``casually chic,'' which often translates to black pants, sweater and leather jacket. You'll still wear a black (or maybe midnight blue) tuxedo, but you're allowed to add more personal flair, with a black turtleneck sweater instead of shirt; a silk smoking jacket or Edwardian coat in black velvet; or dark denim jeans with a tuxedo shirt and jacket. Note that none of these looks is appropriate for galas where you're going to rub elbows with presidents, princesses or bankers.

Shirts: White. Pleats or plain-front, but no ruffles unless it's a '70s-theme party. Wing collar or turn-down pointed collar advised. Colby McWilliams of Neiman Marcus notes that a wing collar may not always sit properly, especially once the shirt has been laundered.

Shoes: Well-shined black leather oxfords or black patent-leather slip-ons are traditional in the U.S., while Europeans favor velvet or fabric slippers referred to as tuxedo pumps. Although you'll see plenty on Oscar's red carpet, Hal Rubenstein of InStyle magazine dislikes shoes with little tassels or anything that looks like a bedroom slipper.

Cummerbunds: Worn with pleats facing up (originally designed to hold theater tickets, and often referred to as crumb-catchers), worn with a single-breasted jacket. Purists say they should be black, but Nordstrom has very witty designs for opera buffs. Match the bow tie.

Fit: If you're going to own only one tuxedo, ``make it as simple as possible,'' Rubenstein suggests. ``It should fit you, in a style that looks good on you.'' Most men look best in a three-button jacket, which gives a leaner look, he says.