TRY THIS THAI.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

WHAT VENTURA BOULEVARD needs is another Thai cafe.

Well, maybe not.

There aren't hordes of customers rushing into Tommy Thai in Tarzana, which has opened in the former Don Moy space. But the new little Thai place appears to be holding its own. It appears to be making it with a combination of a few dine-in customers at lunch and dinnertime and a strong backup of takeout orders.

Its menu isn't a whole lot different from its competitors, but in many cases the kitchen's execution is as good or better.

From its list of starter offerings, the soups appear to be the best bets. Served in a metal firepot with flames erupting from the pot's chimney, the soups are brought steaming hot to the table then ladled into small bowls. There's enough leftover for seconds.

Two of the eight possibilities thoroughly enjoyed here are the traditional coconut, straw mushroom and chicken soup flavored with lemongrass, galanga root, chile peppers and lime juice ($6.50) and the silver (or glass) noodles broth with shrimp, chicken, black mushroom and onions ($6.25).

Of the 10 appetizers, chicken on fire, which turns out to be simple, crispy-skinned, marinated, barbecued chicken on a bed of julienned cabbage ($5.95), is surprisingly almost entree size. Luckily, with some pieces perhaps a tad drier than they should be, there's a fruity, spicy dipping sauce to moisten them up.

Although they were sent back to be reheated, the Thai dumplings stuffed with a chicken and vegetable mixture ($5.95) provide a respectable version.

One of the best efforts here is honey duckling ($9.95). It's also served on a bed of raw cabbage. The duck emerges from a marinade of honey, pepper and garlic to roast slowly prior to a quick deep fry to crisp up the skin. Hacked into manageable pieces it is best dipped into its spicy honey sauce before each bite.

Of the more familiar curry and casserole items, pork with mint leaves, sweet green peppers and onions ($6.25) makes a good impression. So does the kang ka-ree ($6.25), the Thai name for yellow curry recipes. Tried with chicken (pork or beef are alternative options), it has gratifying homey, stewlike qualities from its potatoes and carrots along with the unique taste and creaminess of coconut milk. You can order it mild, medium or hot, as you can with any of Tommy Thai's spicy dishes.

In addition to the expected shrimp creations, the kitchen presents a number of seafood plates utilizing mussels, scallops, squid, crab and both pompano and salmon.

Our pick was an uncomplicated mix of scallops (three pieces) and shrimp (two) stir-fried with cut up asparagus in an oyster sauce ($10.95), not particularly creative, but it hit the spot.

That's pretty much the story at Tommy Thai. Its food may never make you jump for joy, but its workmanlike kitchen won't disappoint, either.

And reliability and consistency are two very important restaurant characteristics.

TOMMY THAI

Food: Three stars Service: Three stars

Where: 19014 Ventura Blvd. Tarzana.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 10:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Chicken on fire, silver noodles soup, coconut chicken soup, honey duckling, pork with mint leaves, yellow curried chicken with potatoes and carrots, asparagus with stir-fried scallops and shrimp.

How much: Starters (shareable) from $5 to $10, entrees from $5.25 to $14, desserts $2.50 and $4.95. No beer or wine yet. AE, MC, V.

Reservations: Taken for larger parties. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1) Business partners Nuchanart Sirichantnon, left, and Apple Arvkvanich show off some of the house specials at the Tommy Thai restaurant in Tarzana.

(2) Chicken satay is one of the house specialties at Tommy Thai.

Evan Yee/Staff Photographer