TRES BON CREATE YOUR OWN AL FRESCO PICNIC, AND SAVOR THE PLEASURES OF FRANCE AT HOME.

Byline: Natalie Haughton

Food Editor

The dollar has dropped to a near record low, making traveling to Europe this summer an expensive trip.

A wiser choice might be staying at home, where you can experience some of the pleasures of Europe in L.A. You don't have to visit the regions outside Paris to get the wonderful taste of the French countryside.

A French picnic, put together by several of Los Angeles' French restaurant chefs -- members of Club Culinaire of French Cuisine -- will be the centerpiece of an outdoor event June 3 at Elysian Park. More than 20 items of French regional fare (from Paris and Brittany to Alsace, Provence and beyond) will be on the menu.

A taste of France in L.A.

"It's a fun day with great food. It's almost like the chefs are going back to their roots, and they are excited to be there," says Josie Le Balch, chef-owner of Josie Restaurant, Santa Monica, who contributes 500 servings of Quiche Lorraine to the event.

"I try to go on as many picnics as possible -- Memorial Day, July 4 and Labor Day -- with my extended family," continues Le Balch, a Chatsworth resident. "They are mostly beach-type picnics and everyone brings a little something for lunch. I always bring cold roast chicken. I'm big on grapes, potato salad, things that are easy to eat at the beach and snack on."

Bruno Lopez, a French native, and chef de cuisine at Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles, for the past two years, has been "stuck making potato salad for the chef picnic. It's like a traditional potato salad that I grew up eating in France, but we use red potatoes with the skins on to make it California style."

Featuring a mayonnaise base with whole-grain mustard and lots of chopped fresh parsley and crisp cooked bacon bits both in and on top of the salad, it's fabulous for any picnic or barbecue.

"When I eat outside, usually at a park in Marina del Rey, Mediterranean-type dishes are good -- ratatouille and potato salad, prosciutto ham, pate, French baguette, some hard cheese (like Basque cheese)."

He also packs cutup French salami slices and hearts of romaine to use as a base for picking up and eating salads. Tabouli, along with a good rice salad like the one his mother used to make -- with diced bell peppers, olives, crab meat or canned tuna, hard-cooked eggs, herbs and a mustard vinaigrette -- are also portable. Even better, they are easy and can be made a day in advance.

Shortcuts that shine

When packing a picnic, rely on a flexible combination of both homemade and purchased food items. "As long as you know what you're buying and it's good quality, it's OK to buy prepared food," advises Lopez, who also likes to offer a selection of individual bags of different flavor potato chips for variety.

"For dessert, I like fruits -- berries mixed with lemon juice and sugar -- or a fruit salad-type thing with mostly berries. I also freeze grapes the night before a picnic and take them frozen. I stay away from cream because of the heat."

Lopez's wine choice is a bottle of chilled Domaine Ott, Rose de Provence, which retails for $20 to $22.

A picnic basket filled with saucisson (salami from Trader Joe's), madrange ham, a pasta salad, cold roast beef, Dijon mustard, cornichons, a baguette, a butter lettuce salad with shallot vinaigrette, and cheese (Saint-Marcelin, Brie or French goat) and fruit (strawberries marinated with lemon and sugar) for dessert is the choice of Christian Monchatre, executive chef and president of the Jonathan Club.

His wine choice is usually a pinot noir, as "it goes well with everything."

But there are more pleasures than just eating when you go al fresco, says the Loire Valley native who now resides in Sherman Oaks.

"I love laying out on the grass on a blanket and drinking pastis (anise liqueur from the south of France) mixed with a little water."

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

[e-mail]

27th ANNUAL PICNIC DES CHEFS

Where: Elysian Park (Montecillo/Old Lodge), Los Angeles, next to Dodger Stadium, on the corner of Stadium Way and Scott Avenue, Los Angeles. Free parking at Dodger Stadium (and free shuttle to park).

When: 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. June 3.

Tickets: $50 general; $20 ages 10-21. Includes all food, wine and other beverages. There will be silent and live auctions along with music (French DJ and band), dancing, soccer, volleyball and moon bouncers for kids. Bring blankets, beach chairs, etc. for comfort. For tickets, call Kora Kroep [phone]. No tickets sold at door.

FRESH FRUIT TART

Butter Crust (recipe follows)

2/3 cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch 

Pinch salt

2 eggs

2 cups half-and-half

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 to 3 cups strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and other fruits, hulled, lightly rinsed and well-drained

1/3 cup strained raspberry, apricot OR currant preserves (optional)

3/4 tablespoon water OR any liqueur (optional)

Prepare Butter Crust dough. Press dough into bottom and up sides of an ungreased 9 1/2-inch fluted metal tart pan with removable bottom. Prick well with fork. Line with no-stick foil if desired. Bake in preheated 425-degree oven about 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden. Cool completely.

In a 3-quart saucepan, whisk together sugar, cornstarch and salt. Whisk together eggs and half-and-half until well-blended. Whisk cream-egg mixture into the sugar-cornstarch mixture. Place over medium heat, whisking occasionally at first to eliminate lumps. Then stir almost constantly until mixture boils and thickens, about 10 minutes. Continue to cook about 1 minute, until mixture holds it shape when you draw your finger through it. Stir in butter and vanilla and set aside. Cool pastry cream, then proceed to assemble tart or refrigerate to use later (top directly with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming).

To assemble the tart, spread pastry cream on the bottom of cold Butter Crust. Arrange fruits in an attractive pattern on top of the cream, packing in as many as you can. Glaze tart, if desired, by combining strained preserves with water or liqueur in a glass cup and heating in a microwave oven 30 to 60 seconds, until thinned when stirred. Cool, then use to brush over top of fruit. Refrigerate tart until pastry cream is set and ready to serve, about 3 to 4 hours. Remove sides from pan and cut tart into slices to serve.

Makes 1 tart, about 8 servings

BUTTER CRUST: In a food processor, combine 1 cup flour, 2 tablespoons sugar and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Cut 6 tablespoons cold butter into pieces over flour. Process with on-and-off turns until mixture is crumbly. With machine on, add 1 tablespoon milk OR orange juice, 1 teaspoon vanilla and 1 tablespoon grated orange peel (optional) through feed tube and process just until dough forms a ball and leaves sides of bowl.

VARIATION: Use Butter Crust, filling and fruit to make 6 individual fruit tarts, if desired; adjust baking time accordingly.

Shared by Daily News Food Editor Natalie Haughton.

JOSIE'S MUSHROOM AND GRUYERE QUICHE 

CRUSTS:

3 cups all-purpose flour

Pinch salt

1/2 cup chilled unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

3/4 cup solid vegetable shortening

Ice cold water

FILLING:

3/4 pound chopped assorted mushrooms

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon minced shallots

8 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sour cream

2 1/2 cups half-and-half

Dash nutmeg (optional)

3/4 pound Gruyere cheese, grated (about 3 cups)

For Crusts, blend flour and salt in a food processor. Add chilled butter and shortening, then pulse until mixture resembles coarse corn meal. Slowly add just enough cold water for dough to come together.

Turn dough out onto a lightly-floured surface and shape into a ball. Cut dough ball into 2 equal parts and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

Lightly butter 2 (9-inch) pie pans. Working quickly, roll one dough mound outward from center into a 1/8-inch-thick round large enough to fit into the pie pan (with a little overhang). Place dough in pie pan. Repeat with remaining dough. Flute edges if desired. Prick bottom of crusts with a fork. Line crusts with foil, then place dry beans or pie weights on surface to keep crust from shrinking and bubbling up during baking.

Bake crusts in a preheated 350-degree oven 20 minutes. Remove beans and foil and bake an additional 5 minutes or until golden brown. Cool crusts.

Increase oven temperature to 375 degrees.

For Filling, cook mushrooms in butter over medium-high heat until they have released their moisture and are lightly browned (about 10 minutes). Add shallots and cook until shallots are softened and very fragrant (about 1 minute more).

Beat together eggs and salt. Whisk in sour cream and half-and-half (and nutmeg if desired).

Layer about 3/4 cup cheese in bottom of EACH of the 2 cooled crusts. Layer mushroom mixture on top of cheese, dividing evenly. Add remaining cheese, dividing between the 2 pans. Add egg mixture to pie pans (be careful not to overfill), dividing evenly.

Bake in a preheated 375-degree oven about 45 minutes, or until centers are set and have puffed up slightly and top of quiche is golden brown. Cool before cutting into slices.

Makes 2 quiches

Shared by Josie Le Balch, Josie

Restaurant.

ARTICHOKE SALAD WITH SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE

1 pound frozen artichoke hearts

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 shallot, thinly sliced plus 1 teaspoon finely diced shallot

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

Water

Fine sea salt

2 tablespoons white wine OR champagne vinegar

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons canola oil

1 to 2 cups baby arugula 

Defrost artichoke hearts, drain. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add thinly sliced shallot and garlic and saut(hrt) until limp and translucent. Add artichokes, 1 cup water and a pinch salt. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer until a knife is easily inserted in center, about 5 minutes. Turn off heat and cool artichokes in cooking liquid. When artichokes are cool, strain and reserve 2 tablespoons cooking liquid.

For vinaigrette, whisk together the reserved 2 tablespoons cooking liquid, wine vinegar, remaining 1 teaspoon diced shallot, a pinch salt and a pinch freshly ground pepper. Whisking constantly, very slowly drizzle in remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil and canola oil until well-blended. Set aside.

To serve, toss arugula and cooled artichokes with enough vinaigrette to coat. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings

Shared by Jean-Pierre Bosc, Mimosa Bistro.

POTATO SALAD WITH BACON

1 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

2 pound small red potatoes, cooked and quartered

1/4 pound bacon, fried crisp, well-drained and crumbled

1 cup chopped green onions

1 cup chopped flat leaf parsley

Combine mayonnaise, mustard, dill and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in potatoes, 3/4 of bacon and green onions. Cover; chill 5 hours or overnight. Stir in 3/4 of parsley and sprinkle remaining over the top of the salad along with the remaining bacon.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Shared by Bruno Lopez, Hotel Bel-Air.

RATATOUILLE

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, crushed and minced

1 large onion, quartered and thinly sliced

1 small eggplant, peeled (if desired) and cubed

1 red bell pepper, diced

1 yellow bell pepper, diced

1 orange bell pepper, diced

6 roma tomatoes, diced

4 small zucchini, cut into cubes

1 teaspoon dried leaf basil

1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano 

1/4 teaspoon dried leaf thyme

1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary

Salt and pepper to taste

In a saucepan, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic and onions and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 6 to 7 minutes. Add eggplant; stir until coated with oil. Add bell peppers; stir to combine. Cover and cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep vegetables from sticking. Add more olive oil if necessary.

Add tomatoes, zucchini, herbs and salt and pepper to taste; mix well. Cover and cook over low heat about 30 minutes, or until eggplant is tender but not too soft.

Makes 6 servings

Shared by Patrick Jamon, the Regency Club.

IN THE BASKET

Typical French picnic fare (like you'll find at the French chefs' picnic):

APPETIZERS: Assorted pates, Quiche Lorraine, smoked salmon, artisan French breads.

FROM PROVENCE: Leg of lamb, roast beef, ratatouille.

FROM ALSACE: Potato salad with bacon, choucroute Alsacienne (sauerkraut, potato and sausage salad) and tarte a l'onion.

FROM BRITTANY: Grilled tuna, artichoke salad, shrimp Americaine (shrimp with a creamy lobster sauce).

FROM PARIS: Rotisserie chicken, french fries, mesclun salad.

DESSERTS: Selection of French cheeses, eclairs, waffles with strawberries and whipped cream, clafoutis aux cerises (cherries baked in custard), fruit tarts.

BEVERAGES: French and American wines, champagne, French beer, Orangina, French brand waters, sodas and iced tea.

PICNIC TIPS

When you're having a casual picnic or meal at an outdoor site, don't brush aside food safety. Here are a few tips for packing and serving the food safely.

Remember to wash your hands with hot, soapy water before and after handling food.

For success, pick foods and finished dishes that travel well and are attractive as well as easy to pack, serve and eat (either out of hand, wrapped in lettuce or a tortilla or with a single utensil like a fork). Do as much advance preparation as possible (such as slicing meats and cheeses). If toting fresh fruits and vegetables, be sure to rinse and dry well in advance of cutting up and packing.

Also, think through serving logistics -- do you need a bowl for tossing greens with dressing or will a plastic food-safe bag work?

Mix and match picnic fare. Supermarket delis, takeout establishments, specialty stores (such as those offering Italian or Armenian wraps and assorted salads) can provide interesting, tasty fare.

Pack according to the site. For beach or lawn picnics, take mats, a tarp or large piece of plastic (to prevent moisture from seeping through), blankets and folding chairs.

Chill or freeze foods in advance of packing them; pack just before departing for the picnic. Put cold foods with other cold foods to keep them cool en route to the picnic. The same goes for hot foods (pack in heavy duty foil or several thicknesses of newspaper). Never pack cold and hot foods in the same cooler or picnic basket.

Place meats and dairy products on ice or frozen gel packs, with heavier items on the bottom. Fill top of cooler and between items with cubed ice in plastic bags. A full cooler will maintain its cold temperatures longer than one that is partially filled.

Seal food items in resealable bags or plastic containers with tape to prevent leakage.

Transport coolers in an air-conditioned car, not in a hot trunk. Once at the site, store coolers or baskets in the shade. Avoid opening the cooler too often so it stays as cool as possible inside. Keep cold foods at 41 degrees or colder.

At the end of the picnic, discard any food that has been out of the refrigerator for two hours or longer.

-- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, 2 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Local chefs Josie Le Balch, Bruno Lopez, center, and Christian Monchatre will be among those cooking for the Picnic des Chefs in Elysian Park in June.

(2 -- color) no caption (picnic food)

(3 -- color) no caption (food in a picnic basket)

(4 -- color) FRESH FRUIT TART

John McCoy/Staff Photographer

Box:

(1) IN THE BASKET (see text)

(2) PICNIC TIPS (see text)