TREAT YOUR FRIENDS MAKE VISIONS OF SUGARPLUMS DANCE IN YOUR KITCHEN.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Cindy Mushet of Los Angeles likes nothing better than to cook up and festively package an array of holiday gifts from her kitchen. Since she started 15 years ago, family and friends have come to expect their favorites to be delivered from the author of ``Desserts: Mediterranean Flavors, California Style'' (Scribner; $30).

Mushet is a pastry expert, having worked as pastry chef at Oliveto in Oakland, Angeli in Los Angeles and I. Cugini in Santa Monica. A native of Glendale, she grew up baking with her mother and grandmother, who provided the inspiration and an array of delicious recipes to get her started. Although she fondly remembers some of those creations, her repertoire is now filled with a wealth of chic, different items.

Just in time for seasonal presents and baskets, she shared her holiday gift ideas and tips in a cooking class at Gelson's Cooking Connection in Calabasas recently. A run-down of her goodies - a few of which may seem a little time-consuming but are not really that difficult to prepare - along with a few comments about them follows. She also provided a couple of extra recipes - Spiced Pecans, Granola and Fragolotta With Almonds and Jam - for those desiring some quicker and simpler ideas.

When it comes to packaging food gifts, Mushet opts for Chinese-to-go boxes and square takeout lunch boxes that she picks up at Smart & Final. Line the boxes with colored tissue paper, top with a layer of plastic wrap and then the food item (layering if necessary between waxed paper). You can paint or use markers to make a festive drawing or decorative pattern (let children help) on the outside or simply wrap with a beautiful ribbon bow or raffia with small pine cones and dried berries.

CHOCOLATE MARBLE BROWNIES: A family favorite, these are dense and fudgy - and almost flourless in the chocolate layers, says Mushet. Use any bittersweet or semisweet chocolate you like (do not substitute milk chocolate).

There are several ways to marble the cream cheese and chocolate mixture, but for the most sophisticated results, Mushet likes to place a layer of brownie batter in the pan, top with the entire cheesecake mixture and then use a pastry bag fitted with a decorating tip or Ziploc bag (snip off corner) to pipe parallel lines of the remaining brownie mixture on top of the cheesecake batter. Use the tip of a knife to create a spider web pattern. You could also drop spoonfuls of the remaining brownie mixture on top and swirl the layers with a knife.

HOT CHOCOLATE MIX: Mushet recommends giving this, the easiest recipe of the bunch, with a package of small cut-up homemade peppermint-flavored marshmallows (you can cheat and give with a bag of those pastel-colored store-bought miniature marshmallows - we won't tell!). Wrap the mix up in a small food-safe bag printed with holiday designs and give in a festive mug. Be sure to include directions for making the hot cocoa, which requires milk and water.

Be sure to use the cocoa powder specified in the recipe. Dutch-process cocoa is not the same as natural cocoa, which is harsher and lighter in color, says Mushet. Dutch-process cocoa has a deep, dark color and is alkalized to remove the natural acidity of the cocoa, yielding a mellower flavor than natural cocoa.

MARSHMALLOWS: Do you really need to make homemade? Mushet thinks so and plans to give them for the first time this year with a new twist - as s'mores candies. She dips cut squares in melted bittersweet or semisweet chocolate and coats them with crushed graham crumbs. ``They're fun to make, off-the-wall and unusual - and people don't expect them,'' she adds. (A little secret if you're in a rush - try the same idea using large-size store-bought marshmallows - they're delicious. Of course the marshmallows won't be as light, but who will know.) This and the toffee were the hands-down favorites with the class.

There are two types of marshmallows - one uses egg whites, the other gelatin and sugar like Mushet's recipe. Although a little messy to make (with the powdered sugar/cornstarch mixture for the coating to keep them from sticking), marshmallows are not all that complicated. Homemade marshmallows can be flavored with candy or citrus oils. Try peppermint or orange.

Even Williams-Sonoma is on the designer marshmallow kick this year, offering homemade squares sandwiched between graham crackers and enrobed in milk chocolate for $19.50 a pound (six s'mores).

HOT BUTTERED RUM TOFFEE: Vary the flavor of the toffee by using favorite liqueur flavors in place of the rum. Unlike other recipes, Mushet coats only one side of her toffee with chocolate and nuts.

When making candy, check the accuracy of your candy thermometer, even if it's new. Simply place it in a pot of cold water and heat to a full rolling boil - it should register 212 degrees F. It it does, follow the recipe exactly. If it does not, you'll need to adjust the temperature. Here's how: ``If the thermometer registers 216 degrees F, add the number of degrees above 212 (4 degrees) to the reading called for in a recipe. If the recipe calls for 240 degrees F. you would cook to 244 degrees on your thermometer,'' notes Mushet. ``If the thermometer reads below 212 degrees F, subtract the same number of degrees from the reading called for in a recipe. If the reading is more than 5 to 6 degrees wrong or if you see gaps in the mercury, replace the thermometer.''

SOUR CREAM PENUCHE WITH CINNAMON AND PECANS: Fudge can be either grainy or smooth, depending on when you stir the mixture. For a grainy texture, begin stirring just after cooking is finished. For a creamy texture, remove cooked mixture from heat and cool to 110 degrees F before beating, which is the method Mushet prefers.

FREGOLOTTA WITH ALMONDS AND JAM: This is an easy cake (really more like a big cookie than a cake) with rustic simplicity and straightforward flavor. Mushet developed the recipe after tasting a version in Italy, where it is popular around Venice. ``Everyone loves this dessert with its shortbread-like dough base, glaze of jam and sprinkling of almonds.''

SPICED PECANS: Spicy, crunchy and irresistible for munching out of hand, these have been on Mushet's gift-giving list for more than a decade. The recipe easily can be doubled or tripled. Substitute walnuts or almonds for the pecans, if desired.

MAPLE ALMOND GRANOLA WITH DRIED CHERRIES AND CURRANTS: Feel free to substitute chopped dried apricots, dates, pears and raisins for the cherries and currants - and other nuts for the almonds. Mushet's husband prefers eating this out of hand as a snack, but it's also great topped with plain yogurt or milk for breakfast.

SPICED PECANS

1 large egg white

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons granulated sugar 

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 

1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (to taste)

1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom 

8 ounces (about 2 cups) whole pecan halves

Place egg white and vanilla in a medium bowl and lightly beat with a whisk, just until frothy. In a separate bowl, stir together both sugars and spices until well blended.

Add pecan halves to egg white and toss, using your hands, until thoroughly coated. Add sugar-spice mixture and blend well, using hands to coat nuts evenly.

Spread nuts on a jelly-roll pan lined with parchment paper, using two forks to separate as much as possible. This can be a little time consuming, but it's much easier now than after nuts have dried and stuck together in oven.

Bake in preheated 275-degree oven 35 to 50 minutes, or until nuts are very dry and toasted. Rotate pan in oven halfway through baking time.

To test for doneness, remove a nut from oven and cool quickly in refrigerator or freezer. If spice coating is dry and nut tastes toasted, it is finished. Do not let nuts brown all the way through as they become bitter. Remove from oven and place pan on a rack to cool completely before transferring nuts to an airtight storage container or gift boxes. Makes about 1/2 pound.

NOTE: Pecans will keep in airtight container in cool, dry location 2 months. Can also be frozen 3 months. Thaw nuts in storage container to room temperature, then toast again 10 to 15 minutes, just to recrisp nuts.

FREGOLOTTA WITH ALMONDS AND JAM

12 tablespoons (6 ounces) unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon almond extract 

1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup seedless raspberry jam

1/3 cup natural sliced almonds

Place butter and sugar in bowl of an electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed until mixture is very light in color, about 3 to 4 minutes. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down sides of bowl. Add almond extract and blend well, another 30 seconds.

In a separate bowl, whisk together flour and salt. Add dry ingredients to butter mixture and combine on low speed, just until dough is thoroughly blended, about 30 to 40 seconds. Measure out 1/2 cup dough and place on a small plate, pressing into a thin layer; place plate in freezer (to chill dough just enough to make it easier to crumble).

Press remaining dough in an even layer into a 9- or 9 1/2-inch fluted tart pan with removable bottom (edges can be a little higher than rest; be careful that center is not thickest point). Spread jam in a thin, even layer over dough, leaving a border of about 1 inch around edges. Remove reserved dough from freezer and crumble into small pieces over jam (some of jam will peek through). Sprinkle sliced almonds evenly over top of cake.

Bake in center of preheated 350-degree oven 40 to 50 minutes, or until topping is golden brown. Remove from oven and place on a rack to cool completely.

To unmold, center tart pan on top of a large can (such as a large can of tomatoes) so that it balances midair as rim of tart pan falls to counter. You can then either leave bottom of pan under cake for support, or cake will slide easily onto a plate if you run a large spatula between crust and pan, using it to guide cake onto plate.

Dust with a little powdered sugar, if desired. Cut into wedges using a sharp knife OR let everyone break off pieces and nibble. Any remaining cake may be kept, covered with plastic wrap, at room temperature 1 to 2 days. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

From ``Desserts: Mediterranean Flavors, California Style,'' by Cindy Mushet.

CHOCOLATE MARBLE BROWNIES

CREAM CHEESE LAYER:

12 ounces cream cheese

1/2 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon vanilla

BROWNIE LAYERS:

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup sugar

4 large eggs

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

To make Cream Cheese Layer, place cream cheese and sugar in bowl of an electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment and blend on medium speed until mixture is very smooth. Add eggs, one at a time, allowing each to incorporate fully before adding next. Scrape down bowl between additions. Mix well. Add vanilla. Set aside.

To make Brownie Layers, place chocolate in a bowl over a pot of hot (not simmering) water, and stir occasionally until melted and smooth. Meanwhile, in bowl of an electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream butter with sugar until light in color and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, allowing each to incorporate fully before adding next, and scraping down bowl between additions. Add warm melted chocolate and mix well, scraping down sides and bottom of bowl. Add flour and mix in only until completely blended. Set aside about 1 1/4 cups batter; spread remaining batter evenly in 9x13-inch buttered baking pan. Spread all of cream cheese mixture in an even layer over brownie layer.

Place reserved brownie mixture in a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain tip and, starting at one of the narrow ends of pan, pipe a series of horizontal, evenly spaced lines down length of pan, using all batter. Then take point of a small knife and drag it back and forth through the lines to create a marble pattern.

Bake in center of preheated 350-degree oven 25 to 30 minutes, or until top is firm to touch (cream cheese portion should still be very light in color). Cool completely before cutting as desired and removing from pan. Makes 12 to 16 or more.

HOT BUTTERED RUM TOFFEE

2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter

1/3 cup dark rum OR liqueur desired

1 vanilla bean, split

1 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup packed light brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

3/4 cup finely chopped, toasted almonds

Lightly oil or spray a jelly-roll pan. Set aside. In a medium saucepan over low heat, melt butter. Add rum. Scrape seeds from vanilla bean and add to pan (save pod for another use). When butter has melted, add granulated sugar, brown sugar and salt. Stir occasionally until sugar has dissolved, then wash any sugar crystals from sides of pan with a brush dipped in hot water. Turn heat to medium, insert a warmed candy thermometer and cook to 286 degrees F. Immediately remove pan from heat and pour candy onto prepared pan, tilting pan to spread toffee in a thin, even layer. Cool completely (about 1 hour).

Place chocolate in top of a double boiler (or a bowl that will fit snugly in top of a saucepan). Place several inches of water in bottom of double boiler pan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat; set chocolate on top and stir constantly until melted and smooth. Use tines of a fork to scratch up surface of toffee (this helps chocolate adhere). Remove chocolate from heat, wipe bottom of pan it is in and pour chocolate over toffee, spreading evenly in a thin layer. Sprinkle chopped almonds evenly over top. Let candy stand at room temperature until chocolate has hardened, then cut or break into pieces. Store for a couple of weeks at cool room temperature between layers of parchment or waxed paper in an airtight container. For long-term storage, place container in freezer (do not refrigerate). Makes about 1 1/2 pounds.

HOT CHOCOLATE MIX

6 tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa

4 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick

1/2 teaspoon INSTANT espresso powder (optional)

Pinch kosher salt 

2 ounces finely chopped semisweet chocolate (milk chocolate may be substituted for a lighter, sweeter hot chocolate)

Blend all ingredients well and transfer to a plastic food-safe bag (or other gift-giving container, like a Chinese takeout box or a wax-lined brown coffee bag).

Attach cooking instructions that follow (tuck inside or tape to box).

Accompany with a gift package of homemade peppermint or other flavor marshmallows. Makes enough mix for about 4 cups hot cocoa.

COOKING INSTRUCTIONS: Place all of hot chocolate mix and 1 cup water in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Whisk constantly, just until mixture is hot and chocolate has melted (do not boil). Remove from heat and let mixture stand 5 minutes. Return to heat, add 3 cups milk and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until cocoa is hot (do not boil). Pour into cups, top with marshmallows and enjoy. Makes 4 cups.

MARSHMALLOWS

1/2 cup powdered sugar

1/2 cup cornstarch 

2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin

Water

2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup light corn syrup 

1/4 teaspoon peppermint OR orange oil (OR flavor of your choice) OR 1/2 teaspoon extract

In a medium bowl, sift together powdered sugar and cornstarch. Whisk until well blended. Spray a half-sheet pan with nonstick spray and dust generously with a few tablespoons of sugar-cornstarch mixture, tapping excess back into bowl. Set pan and sugar mixture aside.

In bowl of an electric mixer, place gelatin and pour 3/4 cup cold water over it. Stir with your finger until all granules have been moistened. Set aside 10 minutes to soften.

In a small saucepan, place 1-inch of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and place bowl of gelatin on top of pot. Heat, stirring, just until gelatin dissolves and mixture is liquid. Remove from heat and place on mixer stand.

In a medium saucepan, place 3/4 cup cold water, granulated sugar and corn syrup. Place over medium-low heat and stir occasionally, until all sugar granules dissolve and mixture is clear. Increase heat to high, attach a candy thermometer to side of pan, and cook sugar, without stirring, to 240 degrees F (soft ball stage). Immediately remove pan from heat, turn mixer on high, and slowly pour cooked sugar over gelatin while mixer is running. Continue to beat mixture 6 to 12 minutes or until it holds its shape on surface. Add flavoring oil and blend well (add a tiny bit of food coloring at this point, if desired).

Scrape marshmallow mixture into prepared half-sheet pan and smooth surface with rubber spatula. Allow to set, uncovered, at room temperature several hours or overnight.

Dust work surface generously with some of sugar-cornstarch mixture, then loosen edges of marshmallow mixture in pan with a small sharp knife or metal spatula. Flip pan over and let marshmallow sheet fall out onto coated work surface. Using a chef's knife, dipped in cold water (or small, simply-shaped cookie cutters), cut into desired shapes. (To package with hot cocoa mix, cut marshmallows small to fit into mug.) Toss cut marshmallows in additional sugar-cornstarch mixture to coat all sides, then set aside to dry for about an hour. Brush off excess coating and package as desired. Store in an airtight container at cool room temperature 2 to 3 weeks. Makes 90 (1x1-inch) squares.

HOMEMADE S'MORES CANDIES: Dip a large marshmallow in melted bittersweet chocolate, then toss in crushed graham cracker crumbs. Place on parchment-paper-lined jelly-roll pan to firm up an hour (or place in freezer 5 to 8 minutes - do not leave too long, or moisture from refrigerator will start to dissolve marshmallows). Store in a cool, dry place in an airtight container.

MAPLE ALMOND GRANOLA WITH DRIED CHERRIES AND CURRANTS

6 cups (1 1/2 pounds) old-fashioned rolled oats (NOT instant)

3/4 cup pure maple syrup 

1/2 cup canola oil (OR other flavorless vegetable oil)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg 

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 cup toasted and coarsely chopped almonds

1 1/2 cups dried sour cherries (OR cranberries)

1 cup currants

Place rolled oats in bowl of an electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment (this can also be done by hand in a large bowl with a wooden spoon). Set aside.

In a small saucepan over low to medium heat, heat maple syrup, canola oil, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt until mixture comes to a simmer. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Turn mixer on low, and slowly add hot maple syrup mixture to oats, blending until oats are evenly coated.

Turn mixture out onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Bake in center of preheated 350-degree oven 30 minutes, removing pan from oven every 10 minutes to gently toss mixture, ensuring oats are evenly toasted. Remove pan from oven, place on a rack and let cool completely.

When cool, stir in almonds, cherries and currants. Package and give as gifts or store granola in an air-tight container at room temperature for your own use. Makes about 3 pounds.

NOTE: Recipe can be doubled or tripled.

SOUR CREAM PANUCHE WITH CINNAMON AND PECANS

1 cup dairy sour cream

3 cups packed light brown sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 cup coarsely chopped, toasted pecans

Lightly butter (or use nonstick spray) an 8x8-inch baking pan and set aside. Place sour cream in a medium saucepan and heat until warmed and liquid. Add brown sugar and stir until sugar has melted, then wash any sugar crystals from sides of pan with a pastry brush dipped in hot water. Turn heat to medium, insert a warmed candy thermometer and cook, without stirring, to 242 degrees F, soft ball stage.

Add butter, but do not stir it in. Remove pan from heat and let mixture stand until it registers 110 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer (to speed up process, pour mixture into a sprayed 9x13-inch or similar pan). Then transfer fudge to bowl of an electric mixer and add vanilla and cinnamon. Beat on low-medium speed until mixture loses its sheen and begins to stiffen, then transfer fudge to prepared pan and press it in evenly. (If it is taking a long time to thicken, slip a bowl of ice water under mixer bowl to hurry things along).

While mixture is still warm, press chopped pecans evenly into surface of fudge. Let mixture cool and set up before cutting, preferably overnight. Cut into 1-inch pieces and store between layers of parchment or waxed paper in an airtight container. Fudge will keep at room temperature 1 week; for longer storage, place fudge in refrigerator or freezer. Bring to room temperature before serving. Makes about 64 (1-inch) pieces.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Wrap 'em up

Send homemade season's greetings from your kitchen

(2 -- color) S'mores candies can be made with homemade or store bought marshmallows.

(3 -- color) `I think food is a loving, nurturing, caring and personal gift.'

Cindy Mushet

Pastry expert, cooking instructor and cookbook author

(4 -- color) Pack up Hot Chocolate Mix and homemade peppermint marshmallows to give as a festive holiday gift from your kitchen.

Photos by John McCoy/Staff Photographer