TOOLS OF THE TRADE TAKE YOUR 'CUE FROM THE GURU OF GRILLS.

Byline: Diana McKeon Charkalis Lifestyle Editor

When it comes to flipping burgers, Bob Karpel has done his share. As a senior program leader at Consumer Reports magazine, he helped test 45 gas grills this year using all kinds of meat, from burgers to chicken breasts to steaks greasy enough to reveal the grills' abilities to flare up.

He says the good news about grills right now is that you can get more grill for less money. Plus, many more affordable grills now come with components like side burners and rotisseries. Stainless steel grills have also come down in price.

In some cases, the more affordable grills even perform better, he says, particularly when it comes to evenness -- the ability of the grill to cook a burger to perfection no matter where it rests on the grill.

Karpel, a year-round barbecuer who resides in New York, won't reveal what brand of grill he uses at home. But he confesses that when he heads outside to grill in winter in boots and a bathrobe, he does so on a midsize grill that cost less than $200.

``It's just great for the way I cook.''

Here are Consumer Reports' four highest scorers for midsize gas grills, meaning they can accommodate about 24 burgers at once.

Vermont Castings. Best rated for top performance of all midsize grills. $400, available at Home Depot.

Char-Broil, Advantage Series. ``Adds more cooking space, a griddle and better searing, though it lacks a fully rolling cart. $270, available at Lowe's.

Thermos Stainless: Consider this one for its ``mostly stainless construction, fourth burner and generous cooking area and shelf space.'' $300, available at Target.

BBQ Grillware: Highly rated for its ``fine searing, long-warranty burners and low price. $200, available at Lowe's.

GRILLIN' TIPS

Helping hands: Many ``big box'' stores (chains like Home Depot and Lowe's) are offering free assembly, Karpel says. ``That's something you definitely want to consider. It doesn't matter if you're handy. It can save you a couple of hours of time and a couple of Band-Aids because of all the sharp edges on those grills.''

Brushing up: ``The most important thing is to clean the grates of the grill instantly after cooking. While the grill is still hot, take a brush and go over it,'' Karpel suggests.

Tailgating: For portable grills, Karpel recommends the Weber Q series because it offers ``better performance without sacrificing cooking space than many other grills.'' And the price is right, at $180; $265 with cart and adapter.

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(1 -- cover -- color) Grill power!

Smokin' hot 'cues and the coolest tools for outdoor cooks

There's nothing like a backyard barbecue on a warm summer night. To get the party started, here are some of the latest fun and useful accessories to make your barbecue experience fun and easy. Now you're cooking with gas!

(2 -- color) Clip On Grill Light: A flexible gooseneck lets you angle this 5-inch fluorescent light just where you need it when grilling after dark. Operates on four AA batteries (included), so it's safe for outdoor use, rain or shine. Durable stainless-steel frame. Attaches to a surface up to 1 inch thick. 26 1/2 inches tall overall. 18-inch gooseneck. From Charmglow. $30 at Home Depot.

(3 -- color) Perforated Wok: Now you can whip up stir-fried vegetables, meats and more right on the grill. This 12-inch wok is built from heavy-duty porcelain-coated steel and features a perforated design that lets heat and flames add flavor to your meal. Simply place the wok directly on the grill, add your ingredients and enjoy. $12.67 at Home Depot.

(4 -- color) Deluxe Barbecue Station: This durable backyard prep, serve and store station is a great complement to outdoor grilling. It includes a convenient fold-away sink for food preparations, large fold-out work surface that closes to protect food from the environment, and a large storage space for charcoal/grill accessories. It also includes a paper towel holder, utensil hooks, removable cutting board, drink holders and garbage bag holder. $169.99 at Amazon.com.

(5 -- color) Flexible Easy-Turn Grill Basket: Grilling fish fillets, burgers, vegetables and other small or delicate foods is easy with this basket designed with flexible wire grids that expand to accommodate foods of varying thicknesses and hold them inside. The basket's 8-inch long teak handles are detachable so the basket can be used with the grill's hood closed. $34 at Williams-Sonoma.

(6 -- color) BarbeQue GrillCovers: Finally, barbecue grill covers with panache! These gems created by Two Dogs Designs. They come in a variety of patterns and sizes, with matching accessories such as aprons and mitts. From $29.99. Contact Two Dogs Designs at [phone] or go online to www.twodogsdesigns.com.

(7 -- color) Chef's Thermometer Fork: Test your food with this stainless-steel fork by inserting the prongs into cooked food. A digital display on the top of the handle shows its internal temperature. Settings indicate the proper heat range for chicken, pork, beef and fish. Runs on two AA batteries (included). $29.95 at Williams-Sonoma.

(8 -- color) 30-Piece Grilling Set: For the ultimate grilling experience, this complete kit includes tongs, basting brush, grill brush, kabob skewers, corn skewers, knife, fork and spatula, all in a case. $79.99 at Target.

(9 -- color) Talking Meat Thermometer: Grill Alert wireless remote cooking thermometer offers outdoor chefs the freedom to mingle. That's because a voice prompt alerts him or her when the entree is ``Almost Ready'' or ``Ready.'' Just select the type of meat and how you would like it done. And the thermometer does the rest. Works from up to 300 feet away and uses two AA batteries (not included). Available at Brookstone, $75.

(10 -- color) Cast-Iron Cow Sizzle Platter: This playful cast-iron platter can be preheated on the grill to keep thick steaks warm at the table. It's preseasoned, heats evenly and stays warm, while the solid-teak charger protects tabletops from burns. $30 only at Williams-Sonoma (Internet or catalog).

(11 -- color) Vertical Roaster: Grill up a chicken to perfection using this vertical nonstick steel roaster. Fat drips away while a vented center cone is designed for wine, beer or water, so meat turns moist with a crisp golden skin. Hand-wash. $25 at Williams-Sonoma.

(12 -- color) no caption (Weber Q)

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GRILLIN'' TIPS (see text)