TOFU GETS A KICK IN SIMI VALLEY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Straight scrambled eggs are, to me, boring.

I nearly always spice them up a bit with some Louisiana hot sauce or Mexican salsa.

The same goes for soft, hot tofu, served steaming, Korean-style in stone pots.

Its texture reminds me of scrambled eggs.

The good news is that Koreans must think like I do, because they serve their hot tofu with a variety of added ingredients and nearly always with something spicy hot, like kimchi.

Thankfully, for those with a ticklish palate, it's often served on the side so each diner can determine the degree of spicy heat.

At the new Tofu Tofu in Simi Valley, a former Pizza Hut now purveys healthy Korean fare at very reasonable prices, meaning that almost every item is ticketed at less than $10.

But don't expect huge portions for your money here. In fact, the seafood choices arrive with about as much restraint on the shrimp, squid, mussels and surimi as the kitchen can muster.

However, if you're really hungry, there's always plenty of rice to fill up on.

In the starter category, perhaps the most bountiful offering is the fried tofu platter ($5.94). It offers tofu, onion and other veggies coated in a batter and deep-fried, resulting in a slightly heavier version of tempura than what you usually receive at a sushi bar or Japanese cafe. And there's a nifty, tart dipping sauce with it.

A similar appetizer called kimchi mandu ($5.95) seems a mite lighter. This is really a crisped dumpling dish crafted with wonton wrappers stuffed with tofu, kimchi, bean sprouts and onions and fried until crunchy.

My favorite specialty at Tofu Tofu actually is a rice dish called hot stone mixed rice ($9.95) which allows the rice at the bottom of the pot to crisp up somewhat.

The kitchen adds reasonably tender beef sirloin and vegetables and gives the dish a welcome kick with some sesame chili paste.

Bulgogi items, the thin-sliced marinated meats that you cook yourself on inset table hibachis at most Korean restaurants, are cooked for you here.

Diners can order beef, pork or chicken versions as main courses, each at $9.95. My pick of the three is the pork option, very flavorful and nicely spiced.

There's also gal-bi, the traditional Korean barbecued short ribs at the same $9.95 price, quite meaty and chewable, marinated to provide tenderness and good flavor.

A big, soupy, tofu hot pot for two ($20 or $25) served anytime and a bi bim bap lunch dish of rice topped with vegetables, a fried egg and chile paste ($5.95) are two of the untried alternatives.

As for a beverage to accompany your meal, adventurous types might want to try the Korean distilled clear liquor called Soju. Available in small bottles at $9.95 each, there are four labels carried at Tofu Tofu.

We tried the Sahn Soju distilled from sweet potatoes and green tea. At 22 percent alcohol or 44 proof, it's stronger than sake and also served chilled. A mite strange, but quite refreshing.

Think twice though, about a second bottle. This stuff could have you doing an impromptu tofu tango.

TOFU TOFU

Food: Three stars. Service: Two and one half stars.

Where: 5830 E. Los Angeles Ave., Simi Valley.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily except Sunday.

Recommended items: Fried tofu, fried wonton, hot stone mixed rice, tofu stew, gal-bi, spicy pork bulgogi, Soju.

How much: Everything $10 or under except large tofu hot pot for two or more.

Wine list: Limited to one label, three varietals. Beer and Korean Soju (four types) are alcoholic beverages of choice.

Reservations: Taken if requested. Call [phone].

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Photo:

At Tofu Tofu in Simi Valley, two of the specialties are the hot stone mixed rice, top, and the tofu tempura, above.

Joe Binoya/Special to the Daily News