TO HAVE AND HAVE KNOT : WOMEN TAKE IT IN THE CHIN, AROUND THE NECK, TRAILING BEHIND AND ELSEWHERE, AS SCARFS RETURN TO THE FASHION FOLD IN A MYRIAD OF RETRO LOOKS.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Staff Writer

Fashion designers are up to their old scarf tricks.

They've reached in their bag of 20th-century fads and pulled out all kinds of accessories over the last year, from hipsters to Hush Puppies, chinos to chain belts, blue nail polish to ponytails.

Fit to be tied this summer are short, sassy neckerchiefs; long, elegant stoles and boas; and an array of headscarfs, from the tiny triangle scarf knotted under the chin to the elegant head-wrap style worn with sunglasses by style icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Jackie Onassis.

JC Penney fashion spokeswoman Toni Turner calls it the next step in the '70s fashion revival. ``You know, we've brought back the jumpsuit, chain belts and hoop earrings ... and scarfs just sort of finish the look of that decade,'' she said.

But don't jump off the retro merry-go-round just yet. We're in for more scarf tricks in the fall, said Turner, with heavier fabrics and bigger scarfs such as ascots and mufflers in animal and graphic prints.

According to Nancy Mamann, spokeswoman for Rampage clothing stores, ``Scarfs have really caught on again because they give you a chance to put your own twist on the current fashions.'' She reports that the short neckerchief in solid brights and prints is a best seller with both teens and boomers, but special-occasion dresses with attached chiffon scarfs are becoming hot as well.

While most fashion mavens link the scarf to the '70s, Los Angeles TV stylist and fashion critic Jane Mannfolk says the super-hot neckerchief is really steeped in '50s nostalgia. ``It's such a clean and sporty look that's very reminiscent of early Doris Day and Audrey Hepburn movies, like `Funny Face' and `Roman Holiday.' But to give it a '90s update, I'd wear the little square scarf in a sheer sherbet shade with a great white shirt over khaki-colored capri pants and black ballerina flats,'' Mannfolk said.

If you're really into the '60s mood, Mannfolk suggests a big silk designer scarf, like a Hermes design, worn tied or wrapped under the chin with the ends tossed over the shoulder. ``It's sort of a studied-but-careless look that Grace Kelly was famous for,'' she said.

Anne Ready, image consultant and president of Ready for Media in Santa Monica, says a scarf is a great way to introduce color around the face, but pulling off this trick takes some skill.

According to Ready, ``The most complimentary colors are pinks and peaches, but bright yellow and purples are also flattering, while green is the least flattering to skin tones.'' She also advises that while big prints may be pleasing to the wearer's eye, they distract people's attention when they're looking at you, so wear them with caution if you're dressing to impress.

How to tie one one Fear knot, for you're not alone. Figuring out what to do with the perfect scarf can be a knotty question. Here are some tips on making the best use of the summer's hottest accessory.

How to tie a neckerchief Step 1: Fold a 12-inch square into a triangle and roll it up.

Step 2: Knot at the side of your neck for a jaunty '60s effect.

How to tie a hacking knot with ends flying free Step 1: Fold a 6-foot oblong scarf in half.

Step 2: Tie at back of neck and bring the ends forward.

Step 3: Fold the two ends in the center to form an open loop and pull the two ends through the loop.

Step 4: Pull the ends in the opposite direction until the scarf fits as snugly as desired. Let the ends fly free.

How to tie an ascot Step 1: Use an oblong scarf or fold a medium-size square scarf into a rectangle.

Step 2: Wrap it around your neck, bringing one end under, up, and over the other.

Step 3: Loosely tuck into the front of buttoned suit jacket for a classic ascot or leave the ends fluffed on the outside for a more casual look.

How to wrap a sarong For a short beach cover-up: Fold an oversize 3-foot square scarf in half to form a rectangle, wrap around hips and secure with a knot over one hip.

For a long skirt: Use a 3-by-6-foot oblong scarf, wrapping around the waist and knotting the top corner and the material that meets it. This will give you a a 12-inch panel to drape over the slit opening over your thigh and tuck into your waistband.

How to tie the ``Audrey Hepburn'' look: Step 1: Fold a 3-foot square scarf into a triangle.

Step 2: Drape over head, crossing the ends under your chin.

Step 3: Tie in a double knot at the nape of the neck with ends free.

Step 4: Add oversized sunglasses.

SOURCE: - Erlina Tulabut

MEMO: Clothes courtesy of Nordstrom at Topanga Plaza mall, Canoga Park. Styled by Barbara De Witt and Erlina Tulabut.

CAPTION(S):

7 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Color) Breezing into style again are lon g chiffon scarfs like this two-tone style by Jil Dever, $76, worn with a Kenar sheath.

(2--Color) Triangle headscarfs and butterflies are back for a summer revival. This style is by Bernie of New York, $28.

(3--4--Color) Designer scarfs, like this one by Nina Ricci, $167, add instant elegance to career clothes. Freshen up a suit with an ascot, like this leopard print and plaid design by Echo, $58.

(5--Color) Add dash to a retro-inspired polyester zip-front pantsuit by GO with this super-long silk muffler by Nordstrom, $135. It also doubles as a stole for glamorous nights on the town.

(6--7--Color) Glam it up with a chiffon stole by Gloria del Piano, $56, with cocktail dress by Nouvea. At left, a knot here and there, and you've turned a scarf into a skirt. This large square with a cocktail print is by Nicole Miller, $72.

David Sprague/Daily News

Box: How to tie one on (See Text)