TIPS ARE TOPS IN CHICKEN OR BEEF AT NEW SEBASTIAN'S.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

YOU LEAVE the tips at most restaurants.

At the new Sebastian's in Toluca Lake, it leaves the tips for you.

That's because the entire menu (except dessert) is based around beef tips and chicken tips.

Primarily a sandwich place, albeit a spacious and comfortable one, Sebastian's serves 23 variations of either beef tips or chicken tips (little cubes of grilled meat) on french rolls, which adds up to 46 possibilities.

Plus there are both entree plates and entree salads with the same basic variations as the sandwiches, thus allowing another 92 menu options.

Come to think of it, this is a mix-and-match heaven, tips (the chicken and beef kind) included.

However, things can get a trifle complicated, even in tips heaven, when the decision-making (by the diner) and the execution (by the kitchen) comes into play.

For the diner, it's not a simple case of picking two or three from a group. Each flavor variation is spelled out, with the majority of the flavor/ingredient/sauce options possessing three or more items. Like one called ``ohsogood'' with barbecue sauce, ham, sauteed mushrooms and bleu cheese. Or the ``meat man'' with grilled salami, grilled pepperoni, bacon, cheddar and bleu cheeses and barbecue sauce.

Plenty of opportunity for mistakes.

Now, if perchance you order an entree plate, you also get the choice of fries or a salad with it. And guess what - the fries come with eight options and the salads with five.

More opportunity for mistakes.

Which, of course, happen.

One time it was two chicken tips entrees instead of one with chicken and one with beef. Another time the cheese was left off both entree dishes (with different flavors), though only one was requested.

To the kitchen's credit, both mistakes were quickly corrected.

And generally speaking, the food comes up pretty tasty.

However, on occasion there's a bite of gristly or chewy beef among the certified Angus tips. And not all the chicken tips arrive with the degree of moistness preferred.

But the portions appear generous enough to satisfy.

The staff bends backward to please, even allowing picky eaters to mess around with the kitchen's prescribed flavor formulas.

In the former Cops and Robbers pasta facility, the full-service Sebastian's has furnished a comfortable patio for leisurely al fresco meal-taking during the warmer months.

It has thoughtfully hung several strategically positioned plasma monitors for sports buffs and furnishes private areas for screenings or meetings.

Prices are moderate, with sandwiches ranging from $7.50 to $9.50, entree salads $9.95 (chicken) and $11.95 (beef) and entree plates $12.95 (chicken) and $14.95 (beef).

As for my non-tips tips here, there are two: the olivio salad ($5.95), because I love olives, and the fries ($4.95) with brown gravy, hold the cheese.

Beverage-wise, only soft drinks are currently available. A beer and wine license is pending.

And of the sweet endings, the ``grand desire'' chocolate cake ($4) seems to be the best choice.

Considering what it cooks, I suppose you could legitimately categorize Sebastian's under ``hot tips,'' like them or not.

And the concept itself: definitely a case of overtipping.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

SEBASTIAN'S

Food: Two stars - Service: Three stars

Where: 10057 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, from 11 a.m. to midnight Thursday through Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.

Recommended items: Beef tips with linguica sausage, Cajun spices, grilled hot peppers and Monterey jack cheese; fries with brown gravy and no cheese, olivio salad, grand desire chocolate cake.

How much: Sandwiches from $7.50 to $9.50, entree salads $9.95 and $11.95, dinner plates $12.95 and $14.95, desserts $4 each.

Wine list: No alcohol yet. Beer and wine license pending.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

It's all about tips at Sebastian's, where this sandwich called the Pittsburgh is made with beef tips, sauteed spinach, Swiss cheese, cracked black pepper, garlic and capers.

Joel P. Lugavere/Special to the Daily News