TINY TINO'S NEW ITALIAN EATERY OFFERS A SMALL MENU, BUT IT'S DONE RIGHT.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Sometimes, those L-shaped mini-malls have little neighborhood cafes operating out of their least visible storefronts, especially those tucked into the bend in the ``L,'' where ``out of sight'' can easily turn into ``out of business.''

Tino's, a new, little Italian restaurant in Valley Village, fits this description.

It replaced an out-of-sight, now out-ousiness, Peruvian eatery called El Andino.

But Tino's deserves attention, perhaps from even further afield than its neighborhood.

It's a charming little place with custom-made, rustic wood chairs, white linen-topped tables, purveying carefully crafted Italian food and displaying a helpful, neighborly attitude.

More importantly, Tino's has a price range so moderate it makes you want to return in a big hurry, like tomorrow. That's because you quickly realize that you paid at least twice as much for a similar meal in one of those trendy Westside trattorias.

Owner-host Augustine ``Tino'' Garcia knows all about that particular restaurant genre. He worked as a waiter in one, namely Divino in Brentwood.

So he realizes first-hand about the kind of contemporary Italian food served in such places. No old-fashioned, gloppy, red-sauced, heavy stuff in his own new spot.

Dishes here have agreeable lightness, along with adequate portioning.

Tino or one of his waiters will start you off with a little complimentary tidbit at dinnertime. The kitchen's favorite is arancini, deep-fried rice balls studded with peas, one per person, a delicious beginning.

And then there's soup.

Both regular soups ($4.50), a skillfully honed minestrone that imparts a hint of perfume from its perfectly cooked, very fresh vegetables, and an herbal white bean and pasta recipe (pasta e fagioli), every spoonful overflowing with savory goodness, are nothing less than exemplary.

If salad is preferred, seven possibilities are listed. We chose the insalata de spinaci ($6.75) one night, a satisfying mix of baby spinach leaves in a citrus dressing with roasted pine nuts, diced Roma tomatoes and a sprinkling of crumbled goat cheese.

Thin-crust pizzas provide another starter possibility. These have fresh- tasting floury dough, light and airy, a good choice being the fresh mushroom option with tomato sauce and mozzarella ($8.25).

There are plenty of pasta items. And they all tend toward fluffiness rather than weightiness. Even the house gnocchi (small, oval potato flour dumplings) avoid the lead-heavy quality of many. And if you don't mind pungent cheese, they're wonderful with a creamy Gorgonzola sauce ($8.25).

However, once past the pastas here, there's, admittedly, a lack of entree depth.

The menu lists three chicken dishes, one veal, two fish - and that's it.

Perhaps, after it becomes established, Tino's will expand in this area.

The kitchen cooks a nicely moist half chicken ($6.95), fetchingly flavored with garlic, rosemary and sage. Usually, there are three vegetables, a small heaping of well-executed spinach, several broccoli flowerettes and a mini-portion of olive oil-brushed diced Roma tomatoes with specks of fresh basil.

The piccata here ($8.25) shows up as a single piece of chicken breast, pounded flat, round in shape, grilled correctly, delectably sauced with butter, lemon and capers.

The same topping works impressively well with a grilled fillet of whitefish ($11.25), feathery light and melty on the palate.

House-baked desserts ($4 each) include an excellent tiramisu, if you have room.

And if you don't, remember, at these prices, there's always tomorrow.

TINO'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Food: Three and one half stars. Service: Three stars.

Where: 5424 Laurel Canyon Blvd., Valley Village.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Minestrone and pasta e fagioli soups, insalata di spinaci, thin-crust pizzas, gnocchi with creamy Gorgonzola sauce, whitefish or pounded breast of chicken topped with lemon and caper sauce, grilled half chicken, tiramisu.

How much: Soups and salads from $4.50 to $8, pizzas and panini (focaccia sandwiches) from $6.50 to $9.50, pastas and entrees from $7 to $11.25, desserts $4 each. No alcohol license. All major credit cards.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1) An eye-catching dish at Tino's is the Four Seasons Pizza, with four distinct sections of toppings and flavors.

(2) Augustine Garcia, manager of Tino's, offers up the Four Seasons Pizza, left, as well as the Spaghetti alla Pescatora and a Caprese salad.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer