TINY MASA SUSHI BRINGS SOME BIG BARGAINS TO NOHO.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic SUSHI sushi A Japanese raw fish delicacy that may be a vector for parasites–eg, Anasakis, which often affect sushi made from mackerel caught in early spring Endoscopy Edema, gastritis, erosion Clinical Myalgia, abdominal pain Radiology Thread-like larvae may ROW in the San Fernando Valley San Fernando Valley Valley, southern California, U.S. Northwest of central Los Angeles, the valley is bounded by the San Gabriel, Santa Susana, and Santa Monica mountains and the Simi Hills. is unquestionably un·ques·tion·a·ble adj. Beyond question or doubt. See Synonyms at authentic. un·ques  tion·a·bil Ventura Boulevard Ventura Boulevard is one of the primary east-west thouroughfares in the San Fernando Valley; as it was originally a part of the El Camino Real (the trail between Spanish missions), Ventura Boulevard is the oldest route in the San Fernando Valley. It was also U.S. , where the number of sushi bars on that 17-mile stretch may actually be higher than the number of gas stations. At today's prices, a fill-up of either can be equally expensive. But what of the scattering of Japanese cafes on other Valley thoroughfares? Are they as good? Are the prices lower? The answer: Yes, they can be just as good. In fact, one of my favorites is little Yamakawa on Riverside Drive in Toluca Lake. Usually the prices are lower mainly because the rents are. Take Masa Sushi on Laurel Canyon Boulevard Laurel Canyon Boulevard is a major street in the city of Los Angeles, California. It starts off at Polk Street in Sylmar in the northern San Fernando Valley near the junction of the San Diego (Interstate 405) and the Golden State Freeways (Interstate 5). in North Hollywood. You can get a sushi meal here for $12. Masa sits in a cramped mini-mall at Oxnard Street on the northeast corner of the intersection which, incidentally, also houses a popular little Middle Eastern eatery called Skaf's Grill. As you enter the front door of Masa, you'll notice a reproduction of its bento A data structure used to store embedded documents in an OpenDoc compound document. Bento, which stands for lunch box in Japanese, provides a "container" to hold the data and a format for defining its contents. box meal, which suggests that it's advertising itself more as a sit-down, full-service cafe than as a sushi bar. Consequently, its kitchen-produced dishes should probably be considered more a reflection of Masa's important fare than its sushi and sashimi items. After two visits, the highlight item here certainly wasn't sushi or sashimi. It was a simple calamari salad ($6.50), a generously portioned bowl garnished with a few shavings of gobu (burdock burdock (bûr`däk), common name of any plant of the genus Arctium of the family Asteraceae (aster family), coarse biennials indigenous to temperate Eurasia and mostly weedy in North America. ) with plenty of crunchy calamari, battered and deep-fried the usual way, perched on a green salad tossed with a piquant dressing. Tasty and satisfying, more than a snack, almost meal size. Some of the sushi items tend to disappoint. Certain slices have been stringy string·y adj. string·i·er, string·i·est 1. Consisting of, resembling, or containing strings or a string. 2. Slender and sinewy; wiry. 3. Forming strings, as a viscous liquid; ropy. . Yet apparently, there's superior quality on hand. In fact the sushi chef might mention that he has some ``good stuff.'' Like yellowtail belly instead of the regular yellowtail. Oh how buttery and succulent was this special offering one night compared to the everyday yellowtail. To me it makes more sense at dinnertime here to order a bento box ($13) that comes with salad, rice and miso soup and offers a number of dish options, than to sit and munch sushi and sashimi snacks a la carte. In fact, you can include sashimi and/or sushi in your bento box, if desired. There are also a variety of udon u·don n. A thick Japanese noodle made with wheat flour, usually served in soup or broth. [Japanese, wheat noodle.] , soba, yaki and katsu opportunities at reasonable prices ($7 to $9). But whatever you decide on, if you're sitting at the sushi bar, try asking the chef about his sake-soaked green plums. They make a delicious ending. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com MASA SUSHI Food: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Three stars Where: 6010 Laurel Canyon Blvd., North Hollywood. Phone: (818) 761-1754. Meals/hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday. Food type: Japanese. Cost: Starters from $1 to $6, main dishes from $8 to $13, desserts $2.50 and $4.50 each. Credit cards: MC, V. Patio dining: No. Parking/valet: Small free lots in front and rear, also street parking. Full bar: No. Wine: Yes. However sake and beer are beverages of choice. Music/entertainment: No. Takeout/delivery: Yes. Masa has both takeout and delivery services, the latter within a three-mile radius. Reservations: Taken for parties of 10 or larger. Otherwise first come, first served. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: At Masa Sushi, a Spanish mackerel mackerel, common name for members of the family Scombridae, 60 species of open-sea fishes, including the albacore, bonito, and tuna. They are characterized by deeply forked tails that narrow greatly where they join the body; small finlets behind both the dorsal and sashimi plate is, clearly, the real deal. The calamari salad is also recommended. John Lazar/Staff Photographer |
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