TINSELTOWN SPYWITNESS.

Byline: Joel Stratte-McClure

WE'LL ALWAYS HAVE PARIS: A not-to-miss highlight of the 11th annual "City of Lights, City of Angels" French film festival, which ends today, is "Paris, je t'aime."

The low-budget compilation of serendipitous romantic stories set in the French capital features Steve Buscemi, Willem Dafoe, Ben Gazzara, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Bob Hoskins, Margo Martindale, Emily Mortimer, Nick Nolte, Natalie Portman, Gena Rowlands, Elijah Wood and other international stars.

How did the creation of 18 short vignettes about various Parisian neighborhoods attract established actors and writing-directing talent that includes Wes Craven, the Coen brothers, Alexander Payne, Richard LaGravenese, G(hrt)rard Depardieu and Gus Van Sant?

"A combination of black magic and blackmail made it work," said Rowlands, who wrote and acted in "Quartier Latin." "I hadn't heard of the producer but was intrigued by the impossibility of the project."

"Who could resist telling and shooting a romantic story about Paris?" said a grinning Craven, whose pastoral segment occurs in P(FT)re <Tag Not Defined> Lachaise cemetery.

The directors and actors were given only a few days to shoot.

"I wrote the script in two hours when I finally settled on Oscar Wilde's tomb," said Craven. "A cemetery is a wonderful place because you're on top of the ground, not under it."

Could the project lead to a scriptwriting career for Rowlands?

"I wrote an adult love story for Benny (Gazzara) and me that doesn't involve running across a sidewalk and strewing flowers," Rowlands said. "But there's not a career trend here."

Everyone has their favorite vignettes in "Paris, je t'aime," which opens in L.A. on May 18. Rowlands and Craven agree that Martindale's accent in "14th Arrondissement" and Buscemi's Metro stop in "Tuileries" are magic moments in Franco-American cinema.

OSCAR, BY DESIGN: Store openings are a nickel a dozen in West Hollywood. But an iconic designer, a chic boutique and a popular charity encouraged Amanda Peet, Jennifer Garner, Lisa Kudrow, Angie Harmon, Amber Valletta, Brooke Shields, Camilla Belle and Lauren Graham to don their Oscar gowns on Wednesday night.

They were celebrating Oscar de la Renta's new flagship West Coast store on Melrose Place. ODLR couldn't make it out from New York for his party because of a cold. But the designer, who had a cancer scare last year, called co-host Garner to express his support for the Women's Cancer Research Fund benefit.

"He's definitely going to be missed, but he sounded fine and told me he was going to watch 'Alias,' " said Garner, dressed in a loose-fitting ODLR dress.

"I don't go out much, but this man and this charity are both important," added Kudrow, wearing a borrowed ODLR sweater.

Also admiring the two-story shop, which includes an apartment-like second story that features the ODLR Home line and will be used for red-carpet fittings, were Lisa Rinna, Cindy Crawford, Donovan Leitch and Shields' husband, Chris Henchy.

Peet, who felt "very ambivalent" about leaving her 2-month-old baby, Frances, chatted with a pregnant Brooke Davenport. Crawford remarked on d(hrt)cor details from the Dominican Republic. Shields said she planned to make a video to post on her husband's funnyordie.com Web site. And Rinna wore Calvin Klein because she "likes to mix it up."

"We're basking in the aura of one of the world's most timeless fashion icons tonight," Rinna said, claiming that she's not "yet" nervous about covering the red carpet for the TV Guide Channel this fall. "Fashion designers are way more special than celebrities."

ERASING MS: The celebrity-filled fashion and comedy scene continues to lure donors to charity events raising funds to eradicate multiple sclerosis and other diseases.

The hottest fashionista runway in L.A. last weekend was at the 14th annual "Race to Erase MS" gala hosted by Nancy Davis and Tommy Hilfiger at the Hyatt Regency. A themed "Dance to Erase MS" act kicked off with Nicky Hilton and Nicole Richie modeling vintage Tommy creations. Then model Daisy Fuentes wore white, Tara Reid blew kisses to the audience, Lisa Rinna shimmied in a red sparkle dress, and Tia Carrere played the queen of vamp.

Sweet lookers included Lisa Edelstein of "House" and Forest Whitaker's wife, Keisha.

"I was one of Tommy's first African-American female models and did his first underwear campaign," Keisha recalled before performances by Donna Summer, the Bombshell Babes, the Goo Goo Dolls and Earth, Wind & Fire.

Male models included Drew and Nick Lachey, who took bows in front of an audience that included Dr. Phil McGraw, auctioneer Tom Arnold, Jennifer Tilly, Virginia Madsen, Molly Sims and MS sufferer Teri Garr.

"I hate the letters MS so much that I took the MS off in front of my name," Garr said from her wheelchair after being introduced by Dr. Phil.

Meanwhile, jokes raised more than $200,000 for the Children Affected by HIV/AIDS Foundation during "A Night of Comedy" at the Wilshire Theater Beverly Hills. Doris Roberts hosted the evening featuring Ray Romano, George Lopez, Sarah Silverman, Kevin James and Bryan Callen.

"Every 15 seconds, a child is orphaned by AIDS," said Roberts. "And we're the sole organization that provides for these children."

Which is definitely no joking matter.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1) ROWLANDS: Francophile forever

Stephen Shugerman/Getty Images

(2) GARR: Speaks out against MS

(3) GARNER: On the loose on Melrose Place

Frazer Harrison/Getty Images