TINSELTOWN SPYWITNESS.

GOWN TIME: Designers are as in-the-dark as the rest of us about what gown stars will wear to the Oscars.

``Who knows,'' Tom Ford admitted at the Gucci party in Beverly Hills on Wednesday night. ``I'm making dresses, and I know what I would like to see, but who knows. I've made dresses for quite a few people, but I don't put a lot of pressure on. It's their night and their moment, so I try to help them. If they wear it, great; if they don't, fine. You never know until they get out of the car if they're wearing your dress. You can talk to them Sunday morning and hear it's the only dress they've got. 'She loves it!' And then she steps out the limo wearing someone else's dress.

It's been rumored that ``two bad fittings'' last week hurt Gucci's Oscar presence. Maybe that's why Gucci pulled out the stops this year to grab more actors, offering custom-made tuxedos for the first time.

But even top style secrets can get spilled. And there were loose lips at the Women's Wear Daily party Wednesday night, where stylists, publicists, stars and editors were buzzing with Oscar gossip. Word is Gwyneth Paltrow, who showed up at the WWD bash in Abercrombie and Fitch corduroy pants and a puffed sleeve jacket, will wear a gown by her good pal Stella McCartney. Jennifer Connelly will be in Balenciaga again. Rake-thin Renee Zellweger, nominated for best actress, will turn up in a Carolina Herrera romantic frock. And that fashion goddess and best-actress nominee Nicole Kidman has chosen elegant vintage Chanel couture.

That rumor of one designer/one star seems to be the trend. ``Lots of stylists have insisted on exclusivity, and many of them are getting it,'' says top Hollywood stylist Vincent Boucher. ``But some designers aren't giving it, so we'll see on Sunday.''

What we will see today is lots of colorful accessories. And no more boring white diamonds. At the WWD party, Carol Brody of Harry Winston let it leak that actresses are stamping their pretty little feet for festive-hued diamonds.

``It's all about color to match their dresses. This is the first year we've done rich russet stones, garnets and orange diamonds, aquamarine, brown diamonds and black opal diamonds. We've even done a black-and-white diamond piece.''

And the gals are going for glamour. ``I brought an entire estate collection out with me, and no one wants them,'' says Brody. ``It's been old, old, old for the past few years and now all the stars want classic, traditional, movie-star Winston.''

Remember all those dainty Y-necklaces? Gone.

``The big ring has replaced the necklace this year,'' says Brody. ``It's all about the big ring.''

You may see color and a big ring (or maybe a small engagement one?) on hot Hollywood hunk Josh Hartnett's Oscar date, Ellen Fenster. She's the ``Black Hawk Down'' star's Minnesota high school sweetheart, and it's their very first Oscars so they hit Harry Winston's to get gemmed up.

``I think they are a little overwhelmed by it all,'' says FilmFashion's Susan Ashbrook. ``But they know it's the Oscars, and it's a big deal.''

MAC ATTACK: Enough about Oscar gowns! Let's talk about face value. At every pre-Oscar bash, stars such as Daryl Hannah, Lisa Marie Presley, Dominique Swain, Sharon Stone, Jennifer Jason Leigh, Shannon Elizabeth and Thora Birch showed up wearing the hot new ``sooty eye,'' courtesy of the makeup artists at MAC's salon in L'Hermitage. And watch for a sooty eye (or two) walking the red carpet on today. Done properly, the new smudged powder effect creates a mysterious, moody and dramatic look. Done badly, you will look like a dead raccoon. For those who want dark-eye drama in their lives (but aren't famous enough to warrant Oscar attention), just stop by one of the MAC boutiques for a gratis demonstration and instructions.

THOSE LIPS, THOSE EYES!: Oscar's 2002 color isn't just for diamonds. Vibrant paint will be featured on famous faces such as the new Christian Dior collection dubbed ``Dior Addict'' which will be worn by Marissa Tomei (``In the Bedroom''), Audrey Tatou (``Amelie'') Anjelica Huston, Saffron Burrows, Kirsten Dunst, Sandra Bullock, Kate Winslet, Reese Witherspoon and Faith Hill. Want to try it for your Academy Award nomination? The vibrant poppy and pink makeup collection is available at the Dior store in Beverly Hills.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1) PALTROW: From Abercrombie to McCartney.

(2) TOMEI

(3) HILL

(4) TATOU