TINSELTOWN SPYWITNESS.

Byline: Elizabeth Snead, Joel Stratte-McClure and Jenny Peters

ACTION JACKSON: Suppose they gave a film festival in the mountains and people actually went to see movies?

That's what happened at the second annual Jackson Hole Film Festival, which took over the beautiful Wyoming town last weekend.

Sure, there's some swag (Rosemount Estates cowboy hats were big) and some films bought and sold. But unlike the Sundance Freebie Fest, Jackson Hole is all about movies.

``It's gotten a little large at Sundance, the swag thing,'' said Joan Allen, star of festival entry ``Yes'' and winner of the fest's new Nellie Tayloe Ross Award. ``The goodie bags at Sundance just get increasingly out of control. This festival is new, fledgling, so we'll see if it changes. Jackson seems to be more about film lovers right now.''

And parties, of course. Patricia Heaton (``Everybody Loves Raymond'') and hubby David Hunt - producer and director, respectively, of the documentary ``The Bituminous Coal Queens of Pennsylvania'' - hit the exclusive Rosemount Diamond Award private dinner at the sky-high Amangani Resort. So did judge Sarah Wynter (``24'') and her fiance, Details magazine editor Dan Peres, although altitude sickness got the better of her that night.

Saturday, when the hot Aussie film ``Somersault'' took home a fistful of Cowboy Awards, there were five parties and more than 70 films shown. And from the looks of all the Hollywood A-listers in brand-new pointy boots and cowboy shirts, lots of Western wear was bought in the town's high-end boutiques.

Let's see. With no swag to grab, people actually spent money in the town and went to see films? Note to Robert Redford: Maybe it's time to pack up and move to a new mountain town.

AS THE WILMER TURNS: Wilmer Valderrama is reportedly dating Jessica Simpson's sister, Ashlee. So why did the actor give Ashlee just a friendly peck on the cheek after she performed ``Pieces of Me'' at the Fulfillment Fund's annual Achievement Awards?

Was he trying not to upset his reportedly jealous and angry ex, Lindsay Lohan? Or did he listen to Ashlee's dating advice to students involved with the mentoring organization?

``No matter what boys tell you, and they'll tell you anything, you've got to be true to yourself and not let them change you,'' Simpson said, after performing.

Jeez, someone should tell that to Katie Holmes. Valderrama's not fazed by the Hollywood rumor mill. But he's smart enough to stay mum on his love life - past and present.

``I'm an outsider like Fez (his 'That '70s Show' character) but not nearly as horny as he is,'' explains Valderrama, who came to the U.S. at 14, speaking no English. ``But experience has taught me to never talk about rumors or relationships.''

Presenters Rosario Dawson, America Ferrera and Blair Underwood were also big on making mistakes and learning from them.

``When you make a mistake, just dust yourself off, get up and enjoy the ride,'' said ``Sin City'' star Dawson. ``Mentors are great, but you really learn from making your own mistakes,'' added Ferrera (``The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants''). ``For instance, it doesn't take a genius to realize that you don't go to The Ivy if you really want a private life.''

Hear that, Tom Cruise?

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1) ALLEN, HEATON, HUNT: Aces in the Hole.

Michael Caulfield/WireImage.com

(2) VALDERRAMA: No lip-sync with Ashlee.

(3) DAWSON, FERRERA: Mistake were made.

Stephen Shugerman/Getty Images