THIS DIP IS A SLAM DUNK.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

INVENTED IN 1908, supposedly, by Philippe Mathieu in Los Angeles, the French dip sandwich has remained a popular item on many menus.

But rarely has it been the main offering of a restaurant except where it began, at Philippe the Original on Alameda Street, downtown L.A.

Now lovers of the French dip have a new place to try their fave, ``Dipped, double dipped or submerged,'' at The Dip in Sherman Oaks.

The Dip is not really a restaurant. It's actually a food stand or kiosk that at one time gained a modicum of fame dispensing New York-style hot dogs under the name Manhattan Franks.

There are a few patio tables, so customers can sit while they eat the French dips. And though they seem to taste better munched fresh out of The Dip's little kitchen, quite a few people order them to go.

For those who don't actually know what a French dip is, perhaps its history is pertinent.

Seems that in 1908 Monsieur Mathieu was readying a sliced French roll to make a sandwich and accidentally dropped it into a roasting pan that contained natural beef juices.

As the story goes, the customer, a local policeman, decided to take the somewhat soggy sandwich anyway and liked it enough to return the next day with several of his colleague cops, who wanted the same ``creation.''

Thus, the ``French dipped sandwich'' was born.

At The Dip, there are half a dozen versions, all the same price, $4.89, and automatically served on a French roll and double dipped unless the customer wants it single dipped or submerged.

I've tried four of the six options (roast beef, pot roast, lamb and pork) and have yet to experience turkey or pastrami.

In order, I liked the lamb first, then the pot roast, then the roast beef and the pork, the latter two rated about equal.

All of the meats are quite tasty. Whether they are better with cheese (75 cents extra) I don't know.

As for the addition into the sandwich of mashed potatoes (another 75 cents), my reaction: too starchy, not appealing at all.

I did try the mashed potatoes side ($1.25), however. Nicely smooth with a hint of creaminess.

I've added from the generous self-service condiment bar sliced jalapenos, cherry peppers, little yellow peppers, pepperoncini and sliced pickled cucumber on my dips.

But not the thin-sliced red onion.

There's also the most important condiment available for this sandwich - mustard.

Those dips bitten into without mustard seem to immediately lack something.

In addition to the mashed potato there are other side goodies ($1.25 each) here: respectable versions of macaroni or potato salads and a sweetish coleslaw.

Also, a large, whole, dill pickle can be had for $1.

As for the automatic comparison to Philippe's, I've heard different people opine that The Dip's sandwiches are just as good, better, or not as good.

One person insists that the ``au jus'' at Philippe's cannot be matched.

And it occurs to me that Philippe's French rolls might be a tad superior, crustier, possessing more of that ``fresh-out-of-the-oven'' character. But not having been there for quite a while, I'm really not sure.

Suffice it to say, The Dip, only open for a short time, makes a darn good French dip sandwich.

Which may very well get even better.

After all, Philippe's has had 76 years to perfect its product.

THE DIP

Food: Three stars. Value: Three stars.

Where: 14333 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Hours: Open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday.

Recommended items: Any of the French dip sandwiches, mashed potatoes.

How much: Sandwiches $4.89 each, combo (sandwich, side and drink) $6.99, sides $1.25, brownie $1.50. No alcohol. Cash only.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Sandwiches surround owner Ken Davitian at The Dip, where six kinds of meat perform daily.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer