THINGS GETTING CRISP IN ENCINO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Differing from its shopping center neighbor, the new Simon's Cafe in the Plaza de Oro in Sherman Oaks, the equally new California Crisp Cafe is very visible with strong frontal and side signage.

This quasi-self-service chain outlet, in taking over the space previously held by Bagel Nosh Deli-Restaurant (which moved up the street), brings another of these new-style chicken, pasta, salad and sandwich cafes to Ventura Boulevard.

California Crisp promises healthy, fresh food - for instance, you can get low-fat mayo on your sandwich, if you wish - and, for the most part, it delivers.

Salads are made right in front of you, tossed to order and at $5.49 or $6.49 each, are as generously portioned and good-tasting as any of the competition.

There's definitely no argument with either the Caesar ($5.49) or Cobb ($6.49), though purists might disagree.

But you pretty much get your money's worth with or without exactitude. It's doubtful that the intention here is to make world-class versions of Cobbs and Caesars, anyway.

In much the same manner with its poultry, the California Crisp kitchen roasts turkey and cooks rotisserie chicken quite well.

No, you shouldn't expect the best chicken or turkey meal you've ever had. Whatever anyone wants to call it, it really is a fast-food place. But, hey, the food is usually vibrant and tasty.

Moist white-meat chicken, actually half a bird ($5.79), with a choice of bread (a fine house-baked cornbread, baguette or lahvosh) plus a salad or vegetable side dish ($1.50) produces a satisfying evening meal, especially if a cup of soup is added.

One night it was cream of artichoke ($2.59), nicely fashioned, very creamy.

And this soup, in a fancy bowl on an underplate with doily, would cost at least $6 in a posh uptown restaurant.

Of the sandwich and wrap offerings, my choice one time was from the Italian-style panini group. Roasted turkey breast ($5.99) is layered onto warm, grilled, crunchy, flat ciabetta bread halves that are spread with a pesto, then stuffed with baby greens, tomato and sweet peppers. Actually, the peppers turned out to be raw and crunchy not soft and roasted as the menu indicated, but the sandwich was still very gratifying.

Incidentally, as a bonus, all sandwiches here come with a small dollop of penne primavera (a cold pasta) or house-baked potato chips. Of the two, the latter gets my strong nod of recommendation.

California Crisp also serves pastas and pizzas (who doesn't?), managing to keep everything on its menu other than the larger (16-inch) pizzas, under $10.

And it has untold combinations, sides and additions on its comprehensive bill of fare, ready to please the largest and smallest of appetites and budgets.

For example, there are even pizzas by the slice ($2.29 each). And with each whole pizza ordered, sides of Caesar or mixed green salads are available at $1.59 each.

Like the deal with the pizzas, with any of its hot pastas you order, you also have the option of a similar small salad for $1.59 and/or you may add 3 ounces of grilled chicken breast to your pasta for the same price.

And there are combinations of sandwich and soup, soup and salad, even a sampler platter ($6.99) with a choice of three of any of the following: a mixed green salad, a Caesar, a pasta salad, a cup of soup, fresh fruit salad, chicken or tuna salad.

And with it comes a choice of bread.

But even if the cornbread gets star billing as the signature item, I somehow believe those humble potato chips deserve more of the limelight.

Because they, not the cornbread, are excellent California crisps.

CALIFORNIA CRISP CAFE

Where: Plaza de Oro, 17201 Ventura Blvd., Encino. (Also in Westlake Village, Sherman Oaks, Pasadena and elsewhere.)

Phone: [phone].

When: Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, except Sunday, serving from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Recommended items: Rotisserie chicken, cream of artichoke soup, panini sandwiches, Cobb salad.

How much: Everything under $10 except large pizzas. AE, MC, V.

Our rating: Three stars for food; three stars for value.

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Photo:

Alex Valdovinos, shift leader at California Crisp Cafe in Encino, deftly assembles a chicken tostada salad.

Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer