THEY SAVED PARADISE OR AT LEAST A TINY LITTLE PIECE OF IT.

Byline: - Eric Noland

MAYER, Ariz. - Give them points for effort.

It was in 1970 that architect Paolo Soleri and a cadre of disciples established a design outpost in the desert north of Phoenix. Repulsed by the runaway urban sprawl of the time, Soleri envisioned a workshop where thousands of visionaries could reside, commune and collaborate on alternatives to ruinous development.

Well, more than three decades later, the crucible is still a work in progress, with construction projects poking along and publicity brochures optimistically promising that this ``prototype arcology'' (the fusion of architecture and ecology), ``when completed, will house 6,000 people by combining compact urban structure with large-scale ...'' Yada, yada, yada.

Meanwhile - don't look now - but 30 years of unchecked suburban sprawl have nearly filled in the 60 or so miles between Phoenix and this complex alongside Interstate 17.

Hey, you can't rush utopia.

Arcosanti is open to visitors, and here's the bonus: To fund this project, the nonprofit Cosanti Foundation sells bronze-and-ceramic wind bells designed by Soleri and crafted on-site. They are superb, featuring desert-abstract elements and weathered with splotches of patina.

The bells are displayed in a gift shop of a multistory concrete tower (Soleri's solution to sprawl was vertical construction) that mushrooms from the banks of the Agua Fria River gorge. The building has the look and feel of a great concrete vault that has gotten a little ratty with time, but many of the design elements are clever: portholes, domes and walls of glass that both warm and light the interior with the sun. After browsing through the wind bell display for a few minutes, you might notice that not a single electric light is evident, yet the bronze gleams.

Getting to Arcosanti requires a 2 1/2-mile drive on a dirt road. As you approach, it rises from the desert like one of those remote galactic settlements that Capt. Kirk and the gang were always stumbling upon. Arches, domes, cubes and diagonals protrude from the desolate landscape.

The organization conducts tours ($8 donation requested) and hosts workshops throughout the year. It also operates a cafe and bakery, if you want to time your visit at lunchtime.

-- Arcosanti is about midway between Phoenix and Flagstaff. Take Interstate 17 to the Prescott turnoff (Exit 262) and proceed east, following the signs to the center. It is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed major holidays. Tours are conducted from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Information: [phone]; www.arcosanti.org.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1) The Arcosanti main building, in the desert between Phoenix and Sedona, allows experiments to check urban sprawl.

(2) Abstract design elements are the distinctive features of Soleri wind bells, which grace the landscape at Arcosanti.

Eric Noland/Travel Editor