THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR GAWKING...; '60S FOOTWEAR RETURNING TO HEIGHT OF POPULARITY, WITH STYLE CHOICES NANCY SINATRA NEVER HAD.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Fashion Editor

Chipped toe nail polish, corns, calluses and (ouch!) bunions?

Not to worry.

Boots are back.

All of those pesky podiatry problems that have caught our eye in California's extended sandal season are finally out of sight, neatly hidden in fall's newest footwear. And, unlike other years when there was only one boot carrying clout (such as the Andre Courreges go-go dancer boot of '63), there's a wide range of styles for every mood and moment. And skirt length.

So many boots to make us walk like Nancy Sinatra (or at least hum a few bars of her signature song), and so many options.

Cowgirl boots with knee-length cocktail dresses are in (hey, it's in Vogue magazine), sleek little ankle boots with pointed toes and metal spike heels (stilettos are NOT over) to wear with short skirts or cigarette leg jeans.

Chunky stacked heels on calf-length boots to wear with mini- or midi-skirts, and space-age sculpted platforms on long leather boots that hit above the knee (oh-so-Gucci) to showcase great gams, or just below the knee (think English riding boot) to look graceful and grounded with an ankle-sweeping pleated skirt.

And how about those backcountry boots that L.L. Bean is famous for? Originally designed for duck hunters, those clunky green rubber and tan calfskin lace-up boots are back in the company catalog looking smarter than ever, says spokesman Dave Teufel. Meanwhile, Italian designer Miu Miu has a similar style in red and black with a high, chunky heel for hunting wildlife in the city.

Thinking L.A. is just too hot for boots?

According to Milinda Martin, fashion director of Robinson-May stores, ``This is our best year in shoe sales, and boots are in the lead. In spite of the heat, our best seller is what we call a tall shaft style, which is a knee-length boot with a heel, featuring a zipper or pull-on design. And yes, it's black leather.'' However, Martin adds that they're also selling a lot of ankle-length boots in leopard and pony print, to be worn with monochromatic (all black or winter white) ensembles or jeans.

That short ankle-length boot is also a best seller at Mervyn's in the Fallbrook Mall in West Hills. Mervyn's shoe department spokeswoman Sherry Frias reports women of all ages are buying them, especially the ones featuring a short, stacked heel.

At Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills, fashion director Lynn Warshaw reports the knee-high leather boot by Tod is the hot ticket, although ankle and thigh-high boots are getting attention.

And over at Topanga Plaza in Canoga Park, the Nine West store is selling platform boots like the proverbial hot cakes, say the sales staff.

When pulling on a pair of fall's new boots - whatever the style - do it with flair. Instead of nude hosiery or black tights, try wearing a pair of long socks with your midcalf Wellington-inspired boots. And let the tops show just a tad, like those in the Via Spiga and Mossimo ads.

With high-heeled ankle boots, try black fishnet hose. Or some plaid tights. It's so naughty, yet nice.

Or wear a lace or leather short skirt with snug just-below-the-knee boots sans socks like the Italians. In Rome, they rub a little talc into their feet and legs to make them feel silky (and absorb sweat).

When adding boots, think about proportions.

Wearing boots is a balancing act, according to Martin.

``When you wear boots you've got to think about proportions. Generally, the flatter your heel, the longer the skirt. However, a petite woman needs at least a small heel to carry off the look, or she'll be overwhelmed with those big boots and long skirt.''

Boots can also pose a problem for larger-sized women who usually have bigger-than-average calves, says Catherine Lippincott, spokeswoman for Lane Bryant stores. ``If you want to wear boots, try a stretch-inset style that accommodates your larger calf, and then cover the top of the boot with a longer skirt. Or opt for an ankle-length boot with pants to give the appearance of a taller boot,'' she says.

Or just sidestep the boot issue and slip into a square-toed, high-heeled Mary Jane (it's got a strap over the instep). Yep, they're also steppin' out on the edge, especially in deep red or gray. And then there's the classic pump with a tiny bow on its pointy toe.

They (and boots) are all very '60s.

And very now.

CAPTION(S):

6 Photos

PHOTO (1 -- color) An oyster-colored flannel boot with floral embroidery, by Gina for Neiman Marcus, has low heels and high visibility. It retails for $1,325.

(2 -- color) This suede and leather boot with appliques, $710, stands tall in Prada's fall collection.

(3 -- color) A black calf motorcycle boot with silver buckles from Donald J. Pliner, $228, gives the feel of the open road.

(4 -- color) Swirl pattern draws attention to this black leather platform boot, $149.

(5 -- color) Black glove-calf knee-high boot from Via Spiga, $305, features classic lines.

(6) An alluring tweed boot with low sculpted heel is $598 from Jimmy Choo.

Evans Caglage/Dallas Morning News