THE TIME IS RIPE CALIFORNIA'S STRAWBERRIES ARE BETTER THAN EVER.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Bite into a jewel -- a glamorous, ripe red strawberry -- and you're in for an explosion of fabulous sweet flavor. At least that's what many consumers are experiencing with this year's crop of excellent berries.

They seem to be winners -- and better than ever, so far. Providing Mother Nature cooperates, it's anticipated that there will be plenty of excellent-quality, ruby-red treasures available throughout the year as California growers, who produce 88 percent of the nation's strawberry crop, are now marketing berries year-round. With berries in peak season, the time is ripe to indulge.

``The projected strawberry crop for '06 is 2.2 billion pounds, up 8 percent over last year's record-breaking crop of just over 2 billion pounds,'' notes Steve Lyle of the California Department of Agriculture.

``Production of the California strawberry crop has gone up slightly more than 50 percent in the last decade, while the total value of the crop has doubled.''

``The value of the California strawberry industry crop was 1.2 billion in 2005,'' adds Mary DeGroat of the California Strawberry Commission in Watsonville.

The significant growth is more than likely due largely to consumer demand.

``We're at 34,155 acres planted (in strawberries), up about 3 percent from last year,'' points out DeGroat, adding that strawberries are grown in five districts. They include Santa Maria, Oxnard, Orange County, Watsonville and San Joaquin Valley -- with some regions doing two plantings a year, and some areas in production simultaneously.

The major commercial varieties grown include Camarosa, Diamante, Ventana and Albion (all developed by the University of California) along with proprietary varieties developed by grower/shippers, says DeGroat. If you shop at farmers markets, you'll often have a chance to sample and learn about the nuances of numerous varieties, but at supermarkets there's often no way of knowing the kind you're buying. But ask, and see if the produce person can give you a clue.

Keep in mind that weather, varieties and maturity are key factors in berry quality and flavor. Remember, though, that strawberries, unlike some other fruits, don't ripen after picking.

When buying berries, mostly sold in lightweight plastic clamshell packaging that is designed to aerate and protect them, look for those with shiny, bright, uniform red color and fresh, healthy green caps. Smell is often a good indicator, too. Avoid berries that are dried out, bruised, decayed or have white shoulders.

``Some equate a deep red color with ripeness,'' says DeGroat, ``but it has more to do with variety. You can have a good sweet berry that is light or dark red.''

``Buy small ones,'' advises Lori Longbotham, author of the recently released book ``Luscious Berry Desserts'' (Chronicle Books; $19.95), adding that she's convinced the smaller the berry, the sweeter and more intense the flavor. ``They are not white cotton on the inside like the big ones, which don't seem to have as much flavor.''

After purchasing, refrigerate berries as quickly as possible. Don't wash berries in cool water until you're ready to eat or use them. Although berries should last four to five days, refrigerated, use within a day or two for best flavor. If you end up with some fresh berries not in pristine condition, put them in a blender with cold water and make your own refreshing juice. Or turn them into a fruit smoothie.

Longbotham is not fond of cooking strawberries as ``they lose their soul somehow, become limp and gray and the texture disintegrates.'' Fresh is best -- and at room temperature.

While 94 percent of American households purchase strawberries and many consumers use them as grab-and-go snacks, some are discovering and looking for interesting and unique ways to use the versatile fruit -- in salads, entrees, salsas, relishes and the like.

Strawberries are low in sugar and high in antioxidants and have about 45 calories per cup without any embellishments. When cooking, figure a 16-ounce clamshell package of strawberries will contain about 18 whole unstemmed berries or make about 3 rounded cups of sliced or chopped berries or 1 3/4 cups pureed berries.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

STRAWBERRY VACHERIN

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB SAUCE:

1/2 cup granulated sugar 

1/3 cup water

1/2 cup diced rhubarb 

1/3 cup stemmed and diced fresh strawberries

MERINGUE STICKS:

2 egg whites

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

TO ASSEMBLE:

3/4 cup heavy whipping cream 

1 1/2 tablespoons powdered sugar plus extra for dusting

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

3 pints vanilla ice cream

1 1/2 cups (about 8 ounces) fresh strawberries, stemmed and sliced

6 mint sprigs

To make Strawberry-Rhubarb Sauce, in a saucepan over medium heat, bring granulated sugar, water and rhubarb to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer about 6 minutes or until rhubarb is tender. Remove from heat; stir in strawberries.

To make Meringue Sticks, in an electric mixer with whisk attachment, whisk egg whites on high speed until soft peaks form. Slowly drizzle in granulated sugar with motor running. Continue to whisk until stiff peaks form. Transfer to piping bag fitted with 1/2-inch round tip. Pipe 3-inch lines on parchment or Silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake in a preheated 175-degree oven about 1 hour or until crisp but not colored.

To assemble, in chilled bowl, combine cream, powdered sugar and vanilla.

Whisk cream until stiff. Transfer to piping bag fitted with a star tip. For each serving, place 1-cup scoop of ice cream in shallow footed bowl, wine glass or such. Ladle 1/4 cup Strawberry-Rhubarb Sauce around ice cream.

Arrange 1/4 cup strawberries around ice cream. Pipe 1/4-cup whipped cream over ice cream. Arrange 5 Meringue Sticks ``tepee'' fashion or around sides of ice cream. Garnish with 1 mint sprig; dust with powdered sugar.

Makes 6 servings

STRAWBERRY TOSTADA

2 1/2 cups (about 3/4 pound) fresh strawberries, stemmed and quartered

1/2 pound jicama, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1 teaspoon minced jalapeno peppers

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 pound avocados, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice

Salt

6 (6-inch) yellow corn tortillas

Chili powder

6 tablespoons crumbled queso fresco

6 cilantro sprigs

1 lime, cut into 6 wedges

In large bowl, mix together strawberries, jicama, cilantro, peppers and lime juice. Add avocados; fold together gently. Season with salt.

Bake tortillas in a preheated 400-degree oven on one rack in one layer about 8 to 10 minutes or until crisp and starting to brown (watch carefully). Mound 1 cup strawberry mixture in center of each tortilla. Sprinkle each tostada with chili powder and 1 tablespoon queso fresco. Garnish with 1 cilantro sprig and 1 lime wedge.

Makes 6 servings

FRESH STRAWBERRY RELISH

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 

2 tablespoons orange juice

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 tablespoon honey

1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon (OR to taste) red pepper flakes

1 pint basket strawberries, stemmed and sliced

3 tablespoons raisins

3 tablespoons chopped walnuts

In medium bowl, combine all ingredients except strawberries, raisins and walnuts. Whisk to blend thoroughly. Add remaining ingredients; toss. Serve with baked or grilled fish or chicken.

Makes 4 servings (about 1 3/4 cups)

FROZEN YOGURT STRAWBERRY PIE

2 (8-ounce) containers vanilla OR strawberry flavored yogurt

1 (8-ounce) tub whipped topping, thawed

2 cups sweetened chopped fresh strawberries

1 prepared graham cracker crumb crust (6 ounces)

Stir yogurt gently into whipped topping until well blended. Stir in strawberries. Spoon into crust. Freeze 4 hours or overnight until firm. Let stand in refrigerator 15 minutes or until pie can be cut easily. Garnish with additional topping and whole strawberries. Store leftover pie in freezer.

Makes 8 servings

CHICKEN, STRAWBERRY AND FENNEL SALAD

WALNUT-BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE:

1/3 cup olive oil

1/3 cup walnut oil

2 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon roasted garlic puree 

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

SALAD:

1 pound grilled chicken breast strips

3 cups fresh strawberries, stemmed and sliced

3 cups thinly sliced fennel bulb

3 cups shredded radicchio 

3/4 cup basil leaves

1 1/2 cups toasted walnut halves

To make Walnut-Balsamic Vinaigrette, in blender or food processor, puree oils, vinegar, garlic puree, salt and pepper until emulsified.

To make Salad, in large bowl, toss chicken breast, strawberries, fennel, radicchio, basil and walnuts with Walnut-Balsamic Vinaigrette. Mound salad on 6 plates, dividing equally.

Makes 6 servings

SQUARE STRAWBERRY PUFF PASTRY TART

PASTRY:

1 sheet (about 8 ounces) frozen puff pastry, thawed according to package directions

3 tablespoons water

1 large egg yolk 

PASTRY CREAM:

2 large egg yolks

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup whole milk

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla paste OR vanilla extract OR orange liqueur

GLAZE:

1/4 cup strawberry jam

1 tablespoon water

2 pints small ripe strawberries, hulled

For Pastry, line a heavy baking sheet with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll out puff pastry to 1/8-inch thick. Using a ruler and a sharp knife, trim edges to make a 10-inch square. Transfer pastry to prepared baking sheet. Using a ruler and a sharp knife, cut a 1-inch border around square, but leave about 1 inch each of two opposite corners uncut.

Whisk together water and egg yolk in a small bowl. Lightly brush egg wash on border, avoiding cut edges and being careful not to let any drip down sides. Pick up one outside point of the cut border and fold it across the square, aligning it on the opposite corner of base. Pick up the other outside point of cut border and cross over to opposite corner of the base, aligning edges. Press lightly with your fingertips to seal, and crimp the edges with tines of a fork. (OR see Note below to bake puff pastry and make tart in an 11x8-inch or 9-inch round fluted tart pan with removable bottom.) Prick base of tart shell all over with a fork. Brush rim with egg wash. Refrigerate 30 minutes.

Bake the tart shell in a preheated 400-degree oven about 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown (watch carefully to avoid overbrowning). Let cool to room temperature on a wire rack.

To make Pastry Cream, beat egg yolks and sugar with an electric mixer on medium-high speed in a medium bowl until thick and pale, about 8 minutes. Reduce speed to low and beat in flour just until blended.

Bring milk just to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Gradually add hot milk to egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Return to saucepan and bring to a boil, whisking constantly; boil 1 minute. Transfer to a shallow bowl and stir in vanilla. Cover with plastic wrap placed directly on the surface of cream and refrigerate about 3 hours, until thoroughly chilled, or for up to 1 day.

To make Glaze, heat jam with water in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until melted. Brush bottom of tart shell with some of Glaze. Spoon chilled Pastry Cream into center and spread evenly. Arrange strawberries on top of cream, with points up. Brush strawberries with remaining Glaze. (The tart can be stored at cool room temperature for up to 3 hours.) Cut tart with a serrated knife to serve.

Makes 6 servings

NOTE: Make tart in a fluted pan as follows, if desired. To bake puff pastry in an 11x8-inch rectangular or 9-inch round fluted tart pan with removable bottom, roll puff pastry out to make a rectangle or round 1 to 2 inches larger than tart pan. Fit pastry into either pan and press into bottom and up sides. Prick bottom and sides with a fork. Refrigerate 30 minutes. Bake in a preheated 400-degree oven about 18 to 22 minutes or until golden, watching carefully. Cool to room temperature. Proceed as directed above.

From ``Luscious Berry Desserts,'' Lori Longbotham.

CAPTION(S):

5 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Summer jewels

Strawberries show their true colors

(2 -- 4 -- color) CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

SQUARE STRAWBERRY PUFF PASTRY TART

STRAWBERRY VACHERIN

STRAWBERRY TOSTADA

Photo by James Carrier from ``Luscious Berry Desserts,'' Chronicle Books

(5 -- color) no caption (CHICKEN, STRAWBERRY AND FENNEL SALAD)