THE SPICE IS RIGHT AT GINGER.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic It seems like every neighborhood in our local suburbs now has at least a couple of Thai cafes handily hand·i·ly adv. 1. In an easy manner. 2. In a convenient manner. Adv. 1. handily - in a convenient manner; "the switch was conveniently located" conveniently 2. located for easy access, whether it's for a full-service meal there or food to enjoy at home. In fact, Thai fare is almost as common these days as Mexican, Italian, Chinese and sushi. Of course there is some variation in quality, presentation and price among these cafes. And while many of the menus look a lot alike, there are subtle differences in some of the preparations and major, easily discernible ones in others. At Ginger in West Hills, qualities of newness, freshness and cleanliness stand out. In its small storefront space, its dining room is spare but not stark, somehow conveying an air of comfort and serenity even when full of diners. Its ware is modern, offering colorful mixtures on square, gleaming white plates. The kitchen will thoughtfully make allowances for those who can't handle the usual chile heat of certain dishes, or make them extra-hot if requested. I especially like Ginger's duck and crab dishes. Tasty roasted duck meat is mixed with onion, cucumber and sweet hoisin-style sauce in nicely executed, slant-cut duck rolls ($8), and the same meat is strewn strew tr.v. strewed, strewn or strewed, strew·ing, strews 1. To spread here and there; scatter: strewing flowers down the aisle. 2. over fresh greens with a sprinkling of cashew cashew (kăsh`  , kəsh`), tropical American tree (Anacardium occidentale nuts and a piquant
dressing in a generously portioned duck salad ($9).
Crab comes in claws in a spicy seafood melange mé·lange also me·lange n. A mixture: "[a] building crowned with a mélange of antennae and satellite dishes" Howard Kaplan. ($17), which also happens to be Ginger's most expensive dish. It can also be found in a crabmeat crab·meat n. The edible flesh of a crab. Noun 1. crabmeat - the edible flesh of any of various crabs crab crab cocktail - a cocktail of cold cooked crabmeat and a sauce fried rice plate ($11) but is best, in my estimation, in a rice noodle recipe. Called sen chan poo ($11) it's made with thin noodles Thin noodles are a variety of Chinese noodle widely used in Southern China, especially in the cuisines of Hong Kong and Guangdong. It has also been selectively used in the cuisines of Shanghai, Malaysia, and Singapore. , julienned carrots, onions and bean sprouts bean sprouts pl.n. The tender, edible seedlings of certain bean plants, especially those of the mung bean. . The sole lamb plate is also a starter, listed simply as grilled lamb ($9) in the appetizer section of Ginger's four-page menu. Here, small lamb slices are marinated, giving them exquisite tenderness without being mushy mush·y adj. mush·i·er, mush·i·est 1. Resembling mush in consistency; soft. 2. Informal a. Excessively sentimental. See Synonyms at sentimental. b. , and they arrive grilled with Thai spicing, boosting each bite's flavor. Dumplings ($7 each) are steamed here, rather than fried, and come with chicken and shrimp stuffing and a spicy soy sauce, or a chicken and veggie filling with a light curry sauce. The kitchen appears adept at satisfying Western palates, offering delicate items like lightly battered whitefish whitefish: see salmon. whitefish Any of several silvery food fishes (family Salmonidae, or Coregonidae), inhabiting cold northern lakes of Europe, Asia, and North America. in a tamarind tamarind (tăm`ərĭnd), tropical ornamental evergreen tree (Tamarindus indica) of the family Leguminosae (pulse family), native to Africa and probably to Asia, but now widely grown in the tropics. sauce ($16), or something more robust like a marinated, grilled pork chop Pork Chop An arrangement on the floor of the NYSE whereby clerks cover the booth of a floor broker and accept orders, phone calls, and associated tasks. Notes: The clerks in charge of maintaining the booths are directly compensated by the floor brokers who own them. ($12) in a tangy sauce with good steamed vegetables. There are the usual curries, pad thai, mee krob, Thai barbecued chicken, et al. available. And clean, fresh-tasting, familiar, spicy Thai soups ($4 each), tom yum and creamy coconut tom kar, along with Chinese-inspired mild wonton soup ($5) are served as individual portions rather than shareable tureens. These are especially welcome on chillier nights. And yes, appropriate entree plates of ginger pork or chicken ($8 each) can be had. The chef sautees either meat with fresh ginger and onions and serves it with black bean black bean see castanospermum australe, erythrophleumchlorostachys. sauce. It won't be fiery-hot like some Thai dishes, so there's no need to worry about eating it carefully. Or should I say ... gingerly? Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson@dailynews.com GINGER Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Three stars Where: 22330 Sherman Way, West Hills. Phone: (818) 887-7118; www.gingerthaicuisine.com Meals/hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, from noon to 10 p.m. Saturday, from noon to 9:30 p.m. Sunday. Lunch specials from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays. Closed Monday. Food type: Thai. Cost: Starters (mostly shareable) from $4 to $10, entrees (mostly shareable) from $7 to $17, desserts $6 each. Credit cards: AE, MC, V, Discover. Patio dining: No. Parking/valet: Free self-parking in small lot. Full bar: No alcohol license. Music/entertainment: No. Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, yes on delivery within three miles. Reservations: Helpful. Needed on weekends. CAPTION(S): 2 photos Photo: (1 -- 2) The Thai fare is fresh and flavorful at Ginger, in West Hills, where owners Jane and Pete Ruangboonsuk display duck rolls, left, and potstickers, right and below. Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer |
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