THE ROAD TO MOROCCO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

It's the real, the true finger food.

Moroccans don't use knives, forks and spoons. And you won't find these utensils on the table at an authentic Moroccan restaurant.

But that hasn't lessened their acceptance: Several are sprinkled around Los Angeles and have retained their popularity over the years.

For some 26 years Marrakesh, started and still owned by Ali Rabbani, has been a fixture on the Southern California landscape with locations stretching from San Diego to Rancho Mirage.

Presently there are three Marrakesh locations operated by Rabbani - in Studio City, Costa Mesa and San Diego.

Multicourse dinners in exotic surroundings served by fez-topped, traditionally garbed waiters lure diners consistently. There's no doubt that an Arabian Nights-type of glamour, mystery and romantic adventure set the tone for this particular brand of evening diversion.

In his third decade as proprietor of this mini-chain of Moroccan restaurants, Rabbani obviously knows how to please those seeking something different from the culinary norm.

And if you insist, he'll gladly give you a fork to prove it.

MARRAKESH.

--Address: 13003 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

--Phone: [phone].

--How long in business: The first Marrakesh opened in Newport Beach in 1974. Studio City was second, opening in August 1979. Since then, Marrakeshes opened in San Diego (1980), Rancho Mirage (1994) and Costa Mesa (1998). The latter replaced the Newport Beach restaurant, which closed in 1998. The Rancho Mirage location also closed in '98.

--Menu/cuisine changes: The menu has remained basically the same over the years. There are six options: a five-course regular ($18.50), a five-course vegetarian ($18.50), a seven-course ($20), an eight-course ($22), an alternative eight-course ($25) and the eight-course couscous royale ($27).

There are also a la carte options.

--Decor/physical changes: There have been many minor changes over the years. However, no major remodeling took place until 1999, when a patio addition, new carpeting, new furnishings and new paint gave the Studio City restaurant renewed vitality.

--Personnel changes: Chef Said Cassica, from Tour Hassan, a well-known restaurant and hotel in Rabat, Morocco, was hired to run the kitchen in Studio City in 1986 and has remained in charge there ever since. Resident manager Omar Tahta is enjoying his 13th year at the Valley Marrakesh.

--Recommendable dishes: Kebabs (shrimp, lamb or chicken), lemon chicken, roasted lamb brushed with honey-mustard, roasted quail, roasted rabbit, fish tagine (usually halibut or swordfish) flavored with sesame and saffron, bastilla (layered filo dough with chicken, eggs, almonds and raisins, flavored with cinnamon and topped with powdered sugar), Moroccan-style moist baklava, house-baked Moroccan-style bread.

--Service quality: From the initial ritual washing of the hands where the server pours the water gently over each diner's hands, to the lifting of the teapot's spout high above the glasses when the sweet warm liquid is poured near the meal's end, there's a suggestion of being pampered at Marrakesh. It's very nice.

--Pricing: Complete prix-fixe dinners from $18.50 to $27. A la carte dishes from $4.95 (salads) to $12.95 (entrees).

--Wine list/service: There's an ample selection of domestic and imported bottlings including a number of French wines. Marrakesh has a full bar. Corkage: $10.

--Policies worth mentioning: Silverware is optional, but you have to ask for it. Moroccans use their bread as a utensil. As mentioned, hands are washed in the traditional manner at the table prior to the start of the ``feasting.'' A belly dancer performs nightly. Tea is poured dramatically toward the end of the meal. Patrons sit on sofas (as they do in Moroccan homes) in small dining rooms.

This unusual restaurant is often used for a variety of specialized, privately catered events.

Major credit cards accepted.

--Miscellaneous comments: The restaurant is open for dinner only, nightly from 5 p.m. to midnight. Reservations are suggested. Valet parking is $3.50.

--Our latest ratings: Three stars for food: three stars for wine: three and one half stars for service.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Manager Omar Tahta, left, and chef Said Cassica present an array of Moroccan fare from the kitchen of Marrakesh in Studio City, where diners eat in the traditional way - without silverware.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer