THE RIGHT BLEND CHILI COOK-OFF A SPICY COMPETITION.

Byline: Krystn Shrieve Staff Writer

VENTURA - Troy Leach takes the Goldilocks approach to chili - making sure it's not too hot and not too mild, but just right.

His Junior Railroad Bear Chili booth will be among a dozen others at today's 21st annual chili cook-off, where cooks fire up their camp stoves in front of judges and spectators to make their entry for the Ventura County Fair.

``Some cooks make their chili too hot, which can sometimes put the judge out of commission and ruin your chances of winning,'' said Leach, 37, of Port Hueneme, who is going for his fourth year of winning the People's Choice award. ``Most cooks use California or New Mexico chili powders and maybe some onion and garlic.''

The chili cook-off is the only competition at the fair where contestants prepare the food on-site, before the crowds. Preparation begins at about 10:30 a.m. in the Poker Flats area, and the cooks have from noon to 3 p.m. to complete their creations.

The rules are simple - the chili must be Texas style - which means only meat and sauce. The meat can be cut and marinated at home, but preparation beyond that is prohibited. Except for canned tomatoes, all other ingredients must be fresh.

The contestants will also bring their People's Choice chili - prepared at home, with beans and reheated for the competition - that is judged by spectators.

``When you go to the grocery store or to a restaurant for chili, what you're getting is chili and beans,'' said Leach's father, Don Leach, who has been coordinating the cook-off for more than two decades.

``There's a misconception that chili always comes with beans; that's the way people like it so that's what we do for People's Choice. Every year we serve between 2,000 and 3,000 cups of People's Choice chili.''

This year's competition will feature the recipes of between 12 and 15 cooks from Ventura County, the San Fernando Valley and as far as Bakersfield. Past chili gurus have come from Santa Barbara, Bakersfield and Nevada, Utah and Arizona, organizers said.

Competitors are awarded for the best chili, the best booth and the best showmanship.

The elder Leach tells the judges to pick a chili they wouldn't mind eating if they were stranded on a desert island for the rest of their lives.

``I don't want it to be too bitter or too salty or have too much garlic. I don't want any of the vegetables or spices to stand out. It should all blend,'' Don Leach said.

Mistakes the Leaches have seen chili cooks make are using top sirloin - it dries out more quickly than chuck or tri-tip - adding too many tomatoes - which makes the chili too sweet - not cutting up vegetables small enough, using too much salt and garlic, or overdoing the cumin - which makes the chili bitter.

Troy Leach, who has been competing for six years, isn't secretive about what he puts in his chili, but what he won't tell people how much he puts in - or when.

``Timing is everything,'' said Leach, a network systems specialist for the Ventura Unified School District.

``If you put the spices in too early they could be flat by judging time. If you put them in too late, the judges will get a powdery taste and be able to pick out the individual spices rather than tasting a good blend.''

THE FACTS

--WHAT: Ventura County Fair

--WHEN: Through Sunday

--TIME: Opens at 11 a.m. daily, exhibits close at 10 p.m.

--LOCATION: Seaside Park, Harbor Boulevard and Figueroa Street, Ventura.

--ADMISSION: $7 for general admission, $4 for children age 6 to 12 and seniors 55 and older, free for children 5 and under, and seniors 100 and older.

--ENTERTAINMENT:

Events are free with admission, seating is first-come, first-served.

Grandstand Arena:

Professional Cowboys Association Rodeo, 2 and 7 p.m., today and Sunday.

Also performing:

The Nelsons, 7 and 9 p.m., today.

Chely Wright, 7 and 9 p.m., Sunday.

--INFORMATION

Call: [phone] or [phone].

Web site: www.seasidepark.org or vcfair.org.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- color) Troy Leach of Port Hueneme looks to add another People's Choice award to his collection in today's chili cook-off at the Ventura County Fair.

(2 -- color) Troy Leach has all the ingredients for success after winning three People's Choice awards at the fair's chili cook-off.

Joe Binoya/Special to the Daily News

Box: (ran in Conejo edition only) The facts (see text)