THE LENTEN TRADITION BEGINS LOCALS ENJOY LONG-RUNNING FRIDAY FISH-AND-CHIP NIGHTS.

Byline: Angela M. Lemire Staff Writer

SANTA CLARITA - Ash Wednesday last week triggered more than Catholics' Lenten season for 40 days of spiritual reflection. It signaled six weeks of Friday runs on a popular and modest culinary tradition - fish and chips.

Until Easter Sunday, restaurants and churches alike will jam-pack freezers with cod filets, carve up hundreds of pounds of potatoes for thick french fries and fire up countless deep fryers to stave off hungry masses abstaining from meat consumption as one of their personal sacrifices.

Restaurants that feature fish and chips are buoyed by the extra business this time each year, while churches use it as a hook, line and sinker fund-raiser.

The Lenten Friday night ``Fish-Fry'' at St. Clare Catholic Church in Canyon Country - now in its 15th year as a charity fund-raiser - spawned an average of 1,000 dine-in and take-out dinners per event last year, parish administrator Paul Travers said Friday, while overseeing last-minute details for the church's first Lenten feast that night.

``We almost have to keep Fish Fry a secret now,'' Travers. ``It's almost scary how many people show up.''

Roughly 25 volunteers arrived at the parish hall early Friday morning to prepare for the first seating of seniors at 4:30 p.m. General seating was to begin at 5 p.m. and the last meal was to be served by 7:30.

The parish hall dinners include Icelandic cod filets, choice of french fries or rice pilaf, cole slaw and rolls. Dine-in meals include coffee, milk and soft drinks. Beer, wine and specialty desserts also are available for purchase.

``You could never have predicted this response we get,'' Travers said. ``Thank God we have the same (volunteers) come back every year to help out.''

Even former South London resident Barry Mitchell - whose native England originated fish and chips - has been shocked by the wave of business the fried entree has reeled into his Newhall-based British pub during Lent, when compared to other seasons.

``It's crazy. There's definitely a big difference,'' said Mitchell, who has co-owned Bulldog's Pub & Grub on Lyons Avenue with wife Shona since 1996. He added, ``I always look forward to this time of year. It's definitely our busiest time.''

English-style fish and chips - which also includes sides of peas and malt vinegar as a condiment - is a staple on Bulldog's menu, offered daily for both lunches and dinners year-round.

The pub, which seats 50, typically goes through 30-35 pounds of Icelandic cod and 35 pounds of potatoes on weekends during the rest of the year, but nearly doubles those volumes during Lent.

``We had a big response last year. We didn't expect that, but we're ready for this year,'' said Mitchell.

Bulldog's has put on extra staff and bulked up on cod and potato orders, he said.

For the health conscious, Mitchell noted that Bulldog's Pub offers alternatives to the batter-fried fish and chips meal, including sauteed fish and shrimp salad.

Of course, plenty of other non-meat alternatives to tide people over during the Lenten season can be found at area restaurants - including other forms of seafood such as sushi; pasta, pizza, and vegetarian fare - but few people would argue that the ``fish on Friday'' inclination has a strong following among Catholics.

Much of Mitchell's surprise over the place that the fish-and-chips tradition has assumed in American and Catholic culture stems from his memories of England, where he lived until 1986 before moving to Southern California.

``I guess back home, you just take it for granted there's fish and chips on every street corner,'' said Mitchell.

``Before McDonald's, our fast food was fish and chips,'' agreed customer Steve Bagnall, a resident of Stevenson Ranch and native of Manchester, England. ``It used to be cheap. Our course, fish isn't cheap anymore.''

Despite the higher cost, many fish-and-chip lovers remain hooked by the entree's relatively low cost per meal, when compared to other dine- out dishes.

Lenten fish fry meals cost $7.50 at St. Clare Catholic Church (children and seniors pay $6.50), while Bulldog's Pub charges $7.95 for a small plate of fish and chips and $9.95 for a larger portion.

All proceeds from dinners at St. Clare are donated to several parish charities, including the local St. Francis Counseling Center, food pantry and St. Vincent De Paul Catholic charities.

``Not one dime goes into the operation of our parish - not one dime,'' said parish administrator Travers. ``It's direct aid to people in need. I think that's why people are so willing to help out and come out for the meal.''

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- color) For the past 15 years, St. Claire Catholic Church in Canyon Country has served fish and chips to members of the community during Lent. The church expects 1,000 diners every Friday.

(2) Nina Tenerami, center, volunteers in the kitchen at St. Claire during Lenten Friday nights.

Eric Grigorian/Staff Photographer