THE HEAD OF THE TABLE."I've learned enough about wine to know one of its dirty little secrets," Garret Oliver, head brewer for Brooklyn Brewery Brooklyn Brewery was started in 1987 by former Associated Press correspondent Steve Hindy and former Chemical Bank lending officer Tom Potter. Hindy learned to brew beer during a six year stay in various Middle Eastern nations such as Saudi Arabia and Syria, where possession and confides. "Wine doesn't work well with everything, like most spicy foods. I mean, I can find a wine to pair with spicy Mexican food, but you are really forcing the issue when beer works so much better. The same is true with Asian foods." After tasting one of the Brooklyn Brewery's twelve styles, it is clear that beer brings much more 'to the table than one might think; flavors range from smoke to citrus to berry to stone fruit to roasted grains to coffee and chocolate. "The American taste in food is moving away from things that work better with wine towards things that work better with beer, " Oliver insists. "I mean, ketchup is no longer the condiment of choice--salsa is. We are catering to the food industry at thc brewery, it's not only the bars," he repeats. Oliver points out that in today's retail market there are about 2000 different beers available, and not just in specialty stores but any given city deli. A large percentage of Oliver's beers are sold to a diverse group of restaurants, among them Gramercy Tavern, Montrachet, Babbo, and Tabla tabla Pair of small drums, the principal percussion in Hindustani music of northern India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. The higher-pitched daya, played with the right hand, is a roughly cylindrical one-skinned drum, usually wooden, normally tuned to the raga's tonic. . Having a variety of flavors enables his beer to be paired with almost anything, from new American cuisine New American cuisine a term for upscale, contemporary cooking served primarily in restaurants in the United States. Combining flavors from America's melting pot with traditional techniques, New American cuisine includes ethnic twists on old standbys, Old World peasant dishes made to contemporary French-Indian, or bistro fare. "There's one secret weapon beer has that wine doesn't tend to-carbonation," Oliver reveals. "Carbonation lifts strong flavors off the palate, scrubs the palate, and resets the palate for the next bite. For this reason I have been doing a lot of beer and cheese tastings. Beer is absolutely wonderful with great, strong cheeses. One reason it works so much better than most wines is its ability to lift the mouth-coating quality of cheese; not to mention how well the flavors meld together," Oliver concludes. It's hard for food to be cloying on the palate when you have paired a beverage that is lifting the flavor. In addition to the food friendly nature of beer, Oliver considers it an affordable luxury. "Your average person can't afford a $50 bottle of Volnay or a $60 bottle of Barolo every night," Oliver begins. "But, most people can afford even the most expensive of beers just about every night." 1-le encourages beverage directors and sommeliers to look at beer not as an alternative to wine with dinner but rather as an add-on to a meal where the guest might have beer and wine. "Let's face it, a bottle of wine on a Friday or Saturday night, doesn't make it all the way through the meal--it's short," he reasons. "You end up getting that glass of house red that is rather unsatisfying after the good bottle of wine you just laid out money for. Now your meal is ruined too." As an example, Oliver describes a meal that starts with spicy shrimp in a coconut curry, continues with an entree of lamb, and ends with a chocolate dessert, "Typically the customer is going to get a bottle of red. They're going to have the wine with th e shrimp, which isn't going to work; it's a disaster and ruins their palate for the wine. Then they move to the lamb; the wine goes well, but then they have dessert with what little wine is left and it doesn't work there either. It makes much more sense for the guest to get a nice Belgian saison (a dry summer ale), which works wonderfully with the shrimp, then have the bottle of wine with the lamb and then get something else; dessert wine or a dessert beer' like a framboise (a Belgian beer made with raspberries). It's an opportunity to give the diner a brand new experience and that's what a great restaurant is supposed to do." Heads-Up Once a sommelier or beverage director has a better appreciation for the unique experience beer pairings offer, they can extend this knowledge to the staff and ultimately to the customer. Oliver recommends as he often does, sitting down with the staff or bringing in a sales specialist to conduct tastings; restaurant Danielle and Chanterelle chanterelle Highly prized, fragrant, edible mushroom (Cantharellus cibarius, order Polyporales), rich yellow in colour, found in woods in summer and autumn. Its similarity to the poisonous jack-o-lantern (Clitocybe illudens, order Agaricales), an orange-yellow fungus of do this. There are certainly books available with good tasting notes and descriptions. Another key is the manner in which the concept of beer is presented. "The quenching quenching Rapid cooling, as by immersion in oil or water, of a metal object from the high temperature at which it is shaped. Quenching is usually done to maintain mechanical properties that would be lost with slow cooling. character of beer allows it to be paired well with most food," offers Wendy Littlefield, co-owner of Ommegang Brewery and Vanberg & Dewulf imports. "It's just that in a fancy' restaurant setting, the idea of beer with dinner may be a bit jarring." However, Littlefield cites this as being part of the fun of Belgian beers because people are always pleasantly surprised. The presentation is the first point of entry. A restaurant like Gramercy Tavern for example, has an impressive bar, decorative taps, chalk b oard listings of unique regional "ales" and "lagers" along with an impressive collection of beer glasses on display; it sucks you in as a customer. But once the guest is seated, it's all about wine. In order to keep the idea of beer fresh in the mind of the dinner guest, Littlefield and Oliver agree; a well versed server should provide a well organized and diverse beer menu along with the wine list. The Beer List Oliver's advice is to start with a list of about eight to ten really good beers with a variety of flavors. "We are looking to do some things with beer that wines can't do. So we're going to look at appetizers, salads, desserts, and cheese and see where we can get some really great matches. I mean I would be less likely to be looking for Looking for In the context of general equities, this describing a buy interest in which a dealer is asked to offer stock, often involving a capital commitment. Antithesis of in touch with. a beer that is great with filet mignon fi·let mi·gnon n. pl. fi·lets mi·gnons A small, round, very choice cut of beef from the loin. [French : filet, fillet + mignon, dainty.] Noun 1. , because a bottle of red wine is most likely going to be served with that anyway. But, our list will have a few beers that will go well with steak." When walking into an upscale restaurant like Montrachet in New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of , Oliver's first step is to start with bottled beer, explaining that it's much easier than putting a hole in the bar to accommodate taps. If you are in the process of opening a restaurant, at least three to five draft lines are suggested. The bottom line? A well organized beer list according to according to prep. 1. As stated or indicated by; on the authority of: according to historians. 2. In keeping with: according to instructions. 3. Oliver should have, "at least one great Pilsner, one great German wheat (Bot.) See 2d Spelt. See also: Wheat beer, one great pale ale, at least two or three of the comple x beers from Belgium because they are very versatile and are as complex as any beverage you can think of, an imperial stout, which is always great with a wide variety of desserts, and one of the Belgian fruit beers." Though Oliver admits some places, like Montrachet will always be wine based, he maintains the importance of having both flavors available, "I think it's almost an insult to your food if you don't provide the wide variety of beverages that could work best. It's like you've been putting together a symphony and you only want to use half the notes." Pairing Tips Oliver has enough information to write a libretto libretto (ləbrĕt`ō) [Ital.,=little book], the text of an opera or an oratorio. Although a play usually emphasizes an integrated plot, a libretto is most often a loose plot connecting a series of episodes. , and that is exactly what he plans to do. Scheduled for release in 2001, The Brew Master's Table will outline the art of pairing food and beer. Until then, keep in mind these food friendly pairing tips from Michael Jackson's, Ultimate Beer (DK Publishing, Inc. 1998). Aperitifs--Dry Abbey Beers, Belgian Golden Ales, and Indian Pale Ales Whether tinged with fruity aromas or floral hops, the dry quality of these Abbey beers and strong ales is an ideal way to wakeup the palate and promotes the appetite. Shellfish--Porters and Stouts The tangy quality, peat, cedar, and salty quality of these United Kingdom beers makes them a perfect match for shellfish, especially oysters. Light Appetizers and Soups--Gueze Jackson recommends the acidity and effervescence ef·fer·vesce intr.v. ef·fer·vesced, ef·fer·vesc·ing, ef·fer·vesc·es 1. To emit small bubbles of gas, as a carbonated or fermenting liquid. 2. To escape from a liquid as bubbles; bubble up. 3. of a Belgian gueze-lamic or German gose for light appetizers and a Belgian Iambic i·am·bic adj. Consisting of iambs or characterized by their predominance: iambic pentameter. n. 1. An iamb. 2. A verse, stanza, or poem written in iambs. for sharp cheese and light soups. Robust Appetizers and Salads--Brown Ales The nutty, citrus and sorrel sorrel, name for several plants, particularly species of dock (see buckwheat) and oxalis. sorrel Any of several hardy perennial herbs of the buckwheat family, widespread in temperate regions. spice of a strong Belgian ale or the nutty, cherry flavors of a brown ale Brown ale is a style of beer made with a dark or brown malt[1]. The term brown beer was first used by London brewers in the late 1600s to describe their products, such as mild ale[2]. are best suited to roasted antipasto dishes, ham, and salads. Pates and Pickled Dishes--Barley Wine, Bock Beer bock beer n. A strong dark beer drawn first from the vats, especially in spring. [Partial translation of German Bockbier : Bock (shortening and alteration of Einbeck, , and Flemish Red Ale Red ale can refer to two styles of beer which are some shade of red or light brown in hue:
Though a pate, rich and gamy gam·y also gam·ey adj. gam·i·er, gam·i·est 1. a. Having the flavor or odor of game, especially game that is slightly spoiled. b. Ill-smelling; rank. 2. in flavor, may require the creamy weight and tartness of a barley wine Barley wine or Barleywine is a style of strong ale originating in England in the nineteenth century (derived from the March or October beers of the 18th century) but now brewed worldwide. The term was originally coined around 1900 by Bass to refer to their No. 1 Ale. or bock beer. In the case of sharp or pickled dishes, the sweet and sour sweet and sour adj → agridulce almost metallic flavors of a Flemish Red ale are also a worthy opponent. Charcuterie--German Lager, Roggen, and Bamberger Rauchbier Charcuterie platters are best washed down with a dark German lager or dunkel. The rich malt and smoke flavors hold up to the strength of these meat preparations. Roggen or rye beers make suitable escorts for the highly spiced style of pastrami, fennel fennel, common name for several perennial herbs, genus Foeniculum vulgare of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), related to dill. The strawlike foliage and the seeds are licorice-scented and are used (especially in Italian cooking) for flavoring. , or pepper riddled salami and sausage. Smoked pork products are best served with the smoky flavors of a German Bamberger Rauchbier, an American stone beer, or a smoked porter or ale. Fish-Pilsner Cod, pike, sole, and salmon are all best with the honest citrus and potpourri quality of a Belgian style Pilsner. Big flavors require bitterness to cut through the flavors without overwhelming the dish. Dark and Light Meat--Bronze Lagers, Irish Red Ale, American Pale Ale American Pale Ale (APA) is a style of American beer based at least originally on beers of the British pale ale tradition. They are pale to amber in color and generally their flavor and aroma is centered around the citrusy and pine character of American hops with caramel-like malt Marzen or bronze lagers found during Oktoberfest have whisky, sweet-spice flavors that pair well with most roasted preparations like chicken. Boiled beef This article is about the English dish. For the German dish, see Tafelspitz. Boiled beef is a traditional English dish which used to be eaten by working class people in London, though its popularity has died in recent years. or pork roasts welcome an Irish red ale, which tastes of cream and toast. Lamb chops or rich lamb stews will pair well with biere de garde, an unusual ale from northern Prance, which is matured in the bottle. The range of orange, pepper, vanilla, and fig make it an excellent pairing. Steaks, roast beef, and prime rib are better paired with the likes of the "new generation" American pale ales or a traditional Burton-style ale; both have heavy duty malt and cedar notes equivalent to the weight of a Cabernet. Pizza--Vienna Lager A Vienna lager smells of yeast and has the baked bread flavors that pair well with just out of the oven 'pie.' Spicy Cuisine--Wheat Beer and Indian Pale Ale Wheat beers, Indian Pale Ales, and other American pale ales go great with Thai and Mexican food. There is something about the hops, which has a pine and grapefruit flavor and aroma that works well with coconut, cilantro, cumin cumin or cummin (both: kŭm`ĭn), low annual herb (Cuminum cyminum) of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), long cultivated in the Old World for the aromatic seedlike fruits. , and other spices. Cheese and Dessert--Abbey Beers, Fruit Beers, and Stouts The abbey beers of Belgium are the best bet for a cheese course. Abbey beers have a broad range of flavors from herbal to fruit to port.They can accommodate any cheese, soft or hard, fresh or aged. Depending on the menu, abbey beers also offer the ideal companions for the sweets, which commence after dinner. Fruit based lambic beers suit stone fruit desserts. Wheat beers, which are unique because of their subtle fruit nuances, pair beautifully with citrus, apple, or banana desserts. Stouts, however, are the ultimate dessert beverage. Cherry stout, honey stout, strong tropical stout, oatmeal stout, to name a few, give the dinner a variety of choices for chocolate, coffee, or cream based desserts. Digestifs and Cigars-- Bock Beer and Barley Wine Extra strong ales and lagers, bock beer, Adam bier bier n. 1. A stand on which a corpse or a coffin containing a corpse is placed before burial. 2. A coffin along with its stand: followed the bier to the cemetery. , and barley wine are the brandy, cognac, and port equivalents of the beer world, capable of Armagnac status on the tongue. Glassware The purpose of a proper glass is to concentrate the aroma and allow a full head of foam to develop. Stemware stem·ware n. Glassware mounted on a stem with a broad base. also provides an elegant presentation. Many breweries, especially in Belgium have designated glasses for each beer style. Believe it or not, Riedel has yet to come out with a line of ale and lager stemware. Hint! Hint! |
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