THE FLIP SIDE OF CATALINA; IT'S SIGHTSEEING, SHOPPING...

Byline: Toby Hill Orange County Register

What an odd little place this is, I thought, strolling around Avalon one quiet, hazy Monday morning.

A bit Laguna Beach with its art galleries and seafront restaurants and bars, a tad Disneyland Main Street with its dearth of motor traffic and abundance of trinket-rich shops and boutiques so tiny it looks like ol' Walt himself designed them at three-fourths scale.

But even more strange was that in my nearly three decades living in Southern California, this was the first time I had made the 26-mile crossing to Catalina.

I'd heard both views of the Catalina experience.

``Ahhh, so peaceful, so relaxing,'' some said.

``Bor-ing! Nothing to do,'' others groused.

Strangely, both camps agree on one thing: You have to go at least once.

Sure, Avalon, the island's only city, is a compendium of coastal tourist-town trappings: restaurants, hotels and b&bs generally are overpriced; crummy souvenir stands hawk Catalina-emblazoned everything; seaside bars beckon with the siren songs of Jimmy Buffett.

Still, despite the encroachment of modern tourism, Avalon wears its heritage proudly on its sleeve. The grand art-deco Casino - no, you can't gamble here, you're still in California, remember - stands as a reminder of more glamorous days. Nearby is the Avalon Tuna Club, the oldest sportfishing club in the United States.

Buildings, walkways and other fixtures are adorned with colorful Catalina tile, manufactured from island rock at a plant near Pebble Beach built by former island owner and chewing-gum magnate William Wrigley Jr.

The Inn on Mount Ada, Wrigley's former home, is now a luxury b&b perched high above the bustling downtown, offering tours and open-house events that give visitors a glimpse into the history of the inn and the island.

But a stay in Avalon need not be all sightseeing and shopping. Calm, clear waters lure boaters, snorkelers, scuba divers and anglers. The town is also the jump-off point to venture to the island's secluded coves, sea caves or the remote Two Harbors village either on your own boat or on one of many tours offered.

Roads out of the city lead into the pristine, rugged island interior, which can be explored on foot, bicycle or tour bus.

Even within the city, you can go hiking.

Just before reaching the memorial and gardens, you'll see the tepee tents of Hermit Gulch Campground. If you have a hiking permit you can veer off on the Hermit Gulch Trail, a rough 2.4-mile path leading to Divide Road, which runs along the island's eastern ridge line.

An easier option, however, is to enter the Wrigley gardens and go through the gate to the right of the memorial, where Memorial Road, a 1.2-mile fire trail, will take you up to Divide Road. Although maps at the interpretive center say this road is the easiest way to the ridge, be prepared to climb steep switchbacks all the way to the summit.

Once at the top, however, you will be rewarded with a view of rugged canyons leading down to the clear, deep aquamarine waters of the island's leeward side. Looking the opposite direction, you'll see a postcard-perfect view of Avalon and the harbor, including the red-tile roof of the Casino and a verdant swath of golf-course fairway leading toward town.

Catalina is known for its laid-back, relaxing atmosphere, but there are plenty of excursions for high-adventure types. You can go diving, snorkeling, rent paddle boards and pedal boats, jet skis and motor boats. You can fish and go rafting along coves and into sea caves. Or, you can venture beyond the town limits and find a vast back country served by a network of paved and dirt roads and wending hiking trails. You might see bison, turkeys and wild boars, and visit Airport in the Sky, the airstrip at 1,600 feet above sea level.

Unless you know someone who lives on the island and has an inland vehicle permit, however, you'll need to choose one of the following options to venture into Catalina's scenic, 42,000-acre interior:

Bus tours: The Safari Shuttle Bus is more a basic transportation service than a formal tour. The bus runs between Twin Harbors and Avalon, with a brief stop at Airport in the Sky. $14.50 each way, or $29 round-trip. [phone].

Discovery Tours offers a 28-mile narrated tour that includes a visit to Airport in the Sky, an Arabian horse performance and refreshments. Adults, $29; seniors $25.75; children, $15.75. [phone].

Catalina Adventure Tours has a two-hour tour to Airport in the Sky and the Catalina Nature Center. Adults, $16.50; seniors, $14; children, $8.75. [phone].

Hiking and bicycling: Permits are required to hike or bicycle outside the Avalon city limits. Hiking permits are free, and can be obtained at the Catalina Conservancy office at Third Street and Clarissa in Avalon.

Biking is allowed in the back country, but it'll cost you. Annual permits are $50 (or $75 for the entire family), including accident and liability insurance, and are good May 1-April 30, no matter what time of year purchased. No day passes granted. Biking is allowed only on designated paved and dirt roads, and not on narrow hiking trails and service roads. For more information, contact the conservancy, [phone].

Most cross-channel boats allow bikes on board for a nominal fee, but there are exceptions. Be sure to check before you wheel your bike up to the dock. Bikes also may be rented by the hour or day at Catalina Auto & Bike Rental, [phone], and Brown's Bikes, [phone].

Helicopter tour: Island Express offers group tours starting at $50 per person for a 12-minute flight with a minimum of four people. [phone].

On Location

Catalina may seem like another world, a land completely separate from Southern California as we know it. But you can get there in less time than it takes for some to make their morning commute.

Catalina Express: Year-round ferry service out of San Pedro and Long Beach to Avalon or Two Harbors. Cost: adults, $36; children 2-11, $27; seniors 55 and older, $32.50; infants 2 and younger, $2. Information: [phone].

Catalina Cruises: Daily departures from Long Beach to Avalon. Cost: adults, $23; children 2-11, $19; children younger than 2, $2. Information: [phone].

Catalina Passenger Service: Departures from Newport Beach aboard the three-deck Catalina Flyer catamaran. Cost: adults, $33; children 3-12, $16.50; children 3 and younger, $2. Information: [phone].

Sail Catalina: Motor-sail boat speeds to Avalon from Huntington Harbor in 1-1/4 hours, then returns in the afternoon under sail. The return trip generally takes two to three hours, depending on wind. Cost: $48.50. Day cruises from Avalon to Twin Harbors also available. Information: [phone].

Island Express: Helicopter service from Long Beach or San Pedro to the island in 15 minutes. Cost: $66 one way, $121 round-trip. Information: [phone].

For outdoors activities, you can contact:

Avalon Aquatics, 615 Crescent Ave.: Air fills, diving and snorkeling rentals, classes. Information: [phone].

Avalon Boatstand/Joe's Rent-A-Boat, on the pier: Motorboats, Jet Skis, Wave Runners, pedal boats, paddle boards, fishing equipment and small-group 1-3/4-hour snorkel trips aboard high-speed inflatable boats. Information: [phone].

All Seasons Catalina Mako Charters: Scuba diving, sport fishing, island exploration, shark diving and more. Information: [phone].

Catalina Adventure Tours: Day or night glass-bottom-boat trips and coastal cruises. Information: [phone].

Catalina Divers Supply, on the pier: Scuba and snorkeling gear and classes and dives for all levels of ability, including overnight dive packages. Information: [phone].

Catalina Ocean Rafting: Explore coves, beaches, sea caves and Two Harbors on half-, full- and two-day outings. Also two-hour snorkel trips. Information: [phone].

Catalina Scuba Luv: Introductory dives and certification program. Information: [phone].

Descanso Beach Ocean Sports & Catalina Island Expeditions: Kayak and snorkel rentals, moonlight paddle outings, kids programs and more. Information: [phone].

Discovery Tours: Semisubmersible boat tours through Catalina's kelp forest, glass-bottom boat outings and coastal cruises. Information: [phone].

Parasailing with Island Cruzers: No need to bring a swimsuit - take off from and land on the boat and stay bone dry. Information: [phone].

Wet Spot Rentals, next to the boat terminal: Kayaks, pedal boats, snorkel gear and wetsuits. Information: [phone].

CAPTION(S):

3 Photos, Box

Box: On Location (See text)

Photo: (1--Color) Picturesque scenes abound on Catalina Island, suchas this view of Avalon Bay from the Inn on Mt. Ada, William Wrigley Jr.'s former home.

Catalina Island Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau.

(2--Color) Homes that step up the hills overlook the strip of beach in Catalina's only city, Avalon.

Susanne Hopkins/Daily News

(3) The street blends into the beach in Avalon, Catalina's only city.

Catalina Island Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau.