THE FASHION POLICE HOT ON YOUR TAIL?; WORRIED ABOUT BEING LABELED A FASHION CATASTROPHE? : ASK MIZ HOT TIPS.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Fashion Editor

Talk about a town without pity. In L.A., land of movie stars and Valley girls, an invitation to a black-tie gala can be a ticket to social ruin without the right ensemble.

The wrong nail polish, last year's tie, round-toe pumps ... before you know it, you're a fashion disaster.

Miz Hot Tips is here to guide you on these all-important questions.

The most common question she gets is on black-tie affairs. A man will call, explaining that he and his wife have been invited to a wedding or a gala, and the dress code is stated as ``black tie'' or ``black tie optional.''

He'll insist it means a business suit with a black tie. She, of course, knows it isn't. But he wants an ``expert'' to tell him and settle the argument.

So before you pick up the phone, read on. Here are Miz Hot Tips' most-often-asked questions:

Q: What does ``black tie'' mean? What's the difference between ``black tie optional'' and ``creative black tie''?

A: ``Black tie'' is a term used to indicate a very formal dress code, which means a long gown for her and a black bow tie with a black tuxedo for him. Tuxedos also require braces (suspenders) and a cummerbund, which is worn with the pleats up, because it was originally designed to hold opera tickets. And do keep that tuxedo jacket on, even if you're working up a sweat on the dance floor, or they'll think you were born in Orange County ...

Now, about the term ``black tie optional.'' That means you can wear a tuxedo or a dark suit (Tom Cruise often wears one to galas), but the emphasis is on elegant attire. ``Creative black tie'' on an invitation indicates that it's probably going to be an artsy affair - like many of the AIDS benefits - and you can wear a black silk tee and dressy black cowboy boots or Hush Puppies with your tuxedo to create an edgy attitude.

Q: When does white-shoe season begin?

A: White shoes are considered socially acceptable from Memorial Day to Labor Day. However, in L.A. and other warm, casual climates, the season usually starts at Easter. But don't think that white shoes go with everything.

They don't.

Keep them for your summery cotton dresses and consider spectator pumps for spring suits.

Q: Should a tie end at the top or the bottom of my belt?

A: In spite of those shorter, school-boyish ties seen recently on the runway, a man's tie should end at the bottom of his belt buckle. Properly tied, it has a very slimming effect, as it covers the belly and lengthens the body.

If you're really tall or portly, ask for extra-long ties. Stores catering to big or tall men carry them, as do stores such as Nordstrom.

Q: What's the ruling on hats in the office?

A: Men take theirs off once they get off the elevator, and women leave theirs on as long as they want. Seems unfair, but it's one of the few etiquette lessons left from those days when gentlemen tipped their hat to a lady.

Q: Are mink coats making a comeback?

A: Real fur is stylin' again, without the social stigma it had in the late '80s. Sales are up, Evita-inspired ``chubbies'' (short coats) are back, and so are fur collars on coats and suits. There are a few designers showing mink stoles, but they're not hot like they were in the '50s.

For those of you who never wore fur in its heyday, there are a few rules. Long-haired furs, like fox, are supposed to be worn after dark with bare evening gowns; while short-haired furs coats (like mink, opossum and chinchilla) in natural colors are 'round-the-clock furs. But wait until at least 11 a.m., or the neighbors might talk.

Although crayon-colored furs are trendy, Miz Hot Tips thinks they're tacky. If you're looking for a burst of color, try a turkey-feather boa instead.

Q: Are women really wearing gloves again?

A: Designers have been trying for two years to get us into the Jackie O uniform, but it isn't catching on in L.A. It's too warm and too formal. You don't even see women wearing them at black-tie charity benefits in Beverly Hills, Miz Hot Tips has observed.

If you're going to the prom or are in a wedding party, you'll probably wear long gloves, so listen up. If your dress is sleeveless/strapless, you'll need the kind that go over the elbow and up the arm. And you don't put your rings over them. All women's gloves are to be kept on while shaking hands, sipping champagne and dancing; however, when you sit down to dinner, take them off and put them and your tiny evening bag on your lap.

Q: When you pin a corsage on, do the stems go up or down?

A: Corsages are pinned on the person's left shoulder with the stems down. However, wrist corsages are currently more popular with younger women.

Q: Can a man wear a button-down shirt with any kind of jacket?

A: No. Anybody with any fashion sense will doubt your business acumen if you show up in a suit wearing a button-down collared shirt. It's meant to be worn with a blazer, sport coat or sweater. So stock up on dress shirts with a wide-spread or straight collar and feel socially secure.

Q: What does ``cocktail attire'' mean?

A: It's sort of the same as ``semi-formal'' and means the event is in the evening and you should gussy up in a short cocktail dress instead of a long gown. But fancy evening suits with satin and sequins also are options. Guys will want to wear a dark suit with a white shirt and serious business tie (leave the conversation print at home).

Q: So, what's a cocktail ring?

A: After years of white wine, few of us know what a cocktail is, much less a cocktail ring. Now that martinis are the drink of the moment, fashion designers have resurrected the ring, which is usually made with a huge semi-precious stone like peridot or topaz, which everybody notices as you clutch your drink. And to be in really good taste, you're not supposed to wear it until 5 p.m.

Q: Can I wear beige pumps with my black suit?

A: Only if you love visits from the fashion police. I know, I know, somebody once told you that beige was a neutral and goes with everything. But trust me, it doesn't.

There's an old charm-school rule that goes like this: Ideally, when someone looks at you, their eyes will go down to your shoes and then back up to your eyes ... and stay there. To achieve this, you need to wear shoes that are as dark or darker (or of the same intensity) as your hemline. So, if you're wearing a black suit, you'll need black shoes ... or maybe bright red, which is hot for fall ... but nothing lighter.

The bottom line - and that's what shoes are - is that shoes should not be lighter than your hair color or you'll look off-balance, which is why most brunettes don't look good in beige shoes, but blondes do.

CAPTION(S):

5 Photos

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) HELP!

A fashion catastrophe waiting to happen?

Ask Miz Hot tips what to wear

(2--Color) Sorry, guys. Women get to keep their hats on in the office.

(3--Color) Shoes should be as dark or darker than your hemline.

(4--Color) Black-tie galas require a bow tie, not necessarily a black one.

(5--Color) A man's tie should end at the bottom of his belt.

(6--Color) no caption (Barbara De Witt)

Tom Mendoza/Daily News