THE END CURTAIN FALLS ON ORIGINAL SPAGO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Writer

Chef Wolfgang Puck wasn't thinking of a creating a celebrity haunt when he began menu planning in 1982 for the original Spago overlooking the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood. After all, this was his first shot at owning a restaurant.

``We have to have one dish under $10,'' he told Spago's first resident chef, Mark Peel.

The result was roasted chicken with double-blanched garlic for $9.50.

Puck, who hoped that at least a few of the celebs who enjoyed his cooking at Ma Maison on Melrose would follow him to his new Spago, had no idea that it would replace Ma Maison as the top Los Angeles celeb restaurant through much of the '80s and '90s.

And now, on March 31, it will end its heralded career.

``We don't need two Spagos in one town,'' said Puck, referring to the more lavish Spago in Beverly Hills that opened in April 1997.

Other reasons for the original Spago's shuttering are matters of logic.

The lease was due to expire, and there would be numerous physical problems - like rusty pipes - to contend with if the location at 1114 Horn Ave. were to remain operable.

But during its heyday, it operated at full speed, jammed nightly with some of the most famous faces in the world at its most sought-after tables.

The prized one was the large round table between the end of the counter in front of the view kitchen and the front window. This was table No. 5.

Which even to the end hasn't lost its appeal.

``Jackie Collins was at this table the other night,'' said Puck's wife and partner, Barbara Lazaroff, who designed the restaurant.

There was no question that Marvin Davis, Elizabeth Taylor, Sean Connery and Irving ``Swifty'' Lazar always sat at table No. 5 or 4, the most coveted of the 24 front-room tables.

But even today Puck appears slightly dazed by Spago's success.

``It was amazing how fast it took off,'' he said. ``Full with people the first night.''

He remembers one customer very well that first night. ``He was wearing a white fur coat,'' he recalled. The customer told a waiter, ``You were stupid to leave La Toque. This place will be closed in two weeks.''

Puck angrily told the man to leave and never bother to come back. Chances are he couldn't have gotten a table anyway.

Within two weeks or so, Billy Wilder, Gregory Peck, Kirk Douglas and Linda Evans were Spago devotees.

What attracted the celebs and the rest of the clientele so strongly?

``Our simple menu,'' says Puck. ``Spago was the first restaurant in this town with informal but high-quality food.''

He points out that the fare was often more American than French or continental. As with the introduction of Sonoma lamb, menu items always mentioned the source.

Puck believes that Spago was the first non-Japanese restaurant to list tuna served rare in L.A. And it made open-view restaurant kitchens fashionable.

With Nancy Silverton (founder of La Brea Bakery) as its pastry chef at the time, Spago began to bake its own bread.

And the Spago party went on night after night despite ``those elitist naysayers'' who, as Lazaroff puts it, ``said pizza wouldn't make it.''

But if you wanted that good table and didn't know Puck or Lazaroff personally, you would go through maitre d' Bernard Erpicum, who held that position during most of the glory years from 1983 to 1994.

Erpicum, who followed original maitre d' Henri Labadie, had known Puck since October 1978, when they both worked at Ma Maison.

``I was hired (by Spago) to consolidate and build the entertainment-industry clientele.''

He describes the maitre d's job at Spago as being ``like an orchestra conductor orchestrating the room on a night-to-night basis.''

He said he made triangles that turned into ``spots of energy.''

The triangles were three adjacent tables where he would seat famous people, usually from the same field of endeavor.

``For example,'' Erpicum says, ``I would have one table for Sherry Lansing, the next table for Michael Ovitz and the next table for Dustin Hoffman.''

These would represent the movie industry.

For television, he would, for example, put president and CEO of NBC Robert Wright between Johnny Carson and David Letterman.

So what about non-celeb Spago regulars?

``You blend them in,'' he answers.

So what happens when a celebrity wants a table that is already occupied?

``When there are objections, you just make them feel that wherever you seat them is a prime table.''

Who sits next to you may well be more important than getting the prime table in the house, anyway.

So who was sitting next to Kareem Abdul-Jabbar one night? None other than Dudley Moore.

They both stood up to talk to each other for five minutes, recalls Erpicum, the diminutive Moore and the giant Abdul-Jabbar, a truly memorable sight for the entire roomful of diners.

He remembers the night Sidney Poitier and Rod Steiger, who had starred together in ``In the Heat of the Night,'' were reunited at close proximity. Completing the table triangle next to both was Billy Wilder.

But some celebs, like William Shatner and David Hockney, always preferred to be out of the limelight in the less crowded, 16-table back room.

That back room, incidentally, designed elegantly by Lazaroff and beautifully furnished, cost $600,000 - $100,000 more than the entire restaurant's opening expense.

Spago, badly in need of additional parking, actually purchased property adjoining its parking lot to the rear at a cost of $800,000. (Because of the closing, it was recently sold to a developer.)

There were always limos, always paparazzi, always glamorous customers.

Asks Erpicum: Where else in one restaurant dining room, seated at different tables, there together purely by chance, could you see the likes of Whoopi Goldberg, Jack Nicholson, Cary Grant, Jimmy Stewart, Sylvester Stallone and Robert de Niro?

Well ... except for those no longer with us, how about Spago Beverly Hills?

``I went to Spago because it was the perfect combination of a place buzzing and hip - a high-energy and fun place with extraordinary food since the first day. I love Wolf's consistency in the service and food.''

- Ernie Del, entertainment lawyer, Century City, who first went to Spago on the night it opened (on his birthday, Jan. 16, 1982)

Here are quotes regarding the memories of some who dined at Spago Hollywood over the years.

``I've never eaten at a restaurant where you felt as welcome as in that place. No matter what you would like, they would make it for you.''

- Barry Wollman, retired textile salesman, a Spago regular

``Mapping out the seating was like mapping out a battle plan. We had to tap dance so everyone was happy.''

- Jannis Swerman, director of communications, Wolfgang Puck Worldwide Inc., a 19-year veteran of Puck's restaurants

``One of the most important reasons why Puck is successful - besides the energy he gave to the restaurant - is he is a down-to-earth person. He is a man who made it, became famous and rich, and stayed humble. People appreciated that Puck stayed the same way he started. Of course, he is a great cook.''

- Rene Delorm, waiter at Spago, 1984-91

``I treasure the evening I walked into Spago on Horn Avenue. I had made a date to meet a lovely lady to take her to dinner. ... Little did I know I would wind up marrying the woman. Of course, I'm referring to my lovely Lorna. ... It is now 11 years later and we've been together ever since that first date. I will be thankful for the rest of my life for going to Spago that night.''

- Milton Berle, comedian

`SWIFTY' LAZAR'S OSCAR PARTIES

Irving Paul Lazar, known as ``Swifty,'' reigned supreme as literary agent and deal-maker extraordinaire. His annual Oscar extravaganza at Spago from 1985 to 1992 was ``the'' party of the year. People were always trying to buy their way into Swifty's parties, but even an offer of $50,000 couldn't do it. And guests who were invited but who didn't show up were never invited again.

A FEW OTHER LANDMARK RESTAURANTS THAT HAVE COME AND GONE

THE BROWN DERBY

(1926-1985)

3377 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles

The original Brown Derby, was housed in an eye-catching building shaped like a hat, across the street from the Ambassador Hotel. An instant hit, it appealed to celebs as the food was good and it stayed open until 4 a.m. In 1929, a second location, the Vine Street Derby, opened at Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street. Close to many movie studios, it was often packed at lunchtime with stars, sometimes in their makeup and costumes. In the 1930s and '40s additional locations opened in Beverly Hills and one in Los Feliz.

Signature dishes: Cobb salad (named after Robert H. Cobb, who became owner in 1934); grapefruit cake; chiffon cake; corned beef hash.

Celebrity clients: Charlie Chaplin, W.C. Fields, Dorothy Lamour, Mary Pickford, Jean Harlow, Joan Crawford.

PERINO'S

(1932-1985; reopened 1986-1989)

3927 Wilshire Blvd.; moved to 4101 Wilshire Blvd. in 1949, then downtown Los Angeles and back to Wilshire Boulevard.

More than just a star spot, this elegant, pink-toned, white-glove European-style restaurant was also frequented by dignitaries, U.S. presidents and Los Angeles society. Diners dressed to the nines and wore their best jewelry here.

Signature dishes: Cream of pea soup; pumpernickel toast; white fish Perino's; saddle of lamb; steak Diane.

Celeb clients: Gloria Swanson, Eleanor Roosevelt, Bugsy Siegel, Greta Garbo, Cole Porter, Marilyn Monroe and Mayor Tom Bradley.

CHASEN'S

(1936-1995)

9039 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles.

``Chasen's was the Spago of the '40s and '50s - the ultimate Hollywood canteen, part pals' clubhouse, part grown-ups dining room,'' wrote Coleman Andrews in Saveur magazine. Opened as Chasen's Southern Pit, it was a barbecue pit with an eight-stool chili stand attached and barely enough room for six tables. Chasen's grew into an elegantly casual, coat-and-tie-required, Hollywood-style hangout with red and green leather booths and a wall full of star photos and mementos. Ronald Reagan proposed to Nancy at the restaurant.

Signature dishes: Hobo steak; chili; deviled beef bones; chicken pot pie; cheese toast; creamed spinach; banana shortcake.

Celebrity clients: W.C. Fields, J. Edgar Hoover, Joe DiMaggio, Frank Sinatra, Bob Hope, Howard Hughes, Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor, Lucille Ball, Bing Crosby

ROMANOFF'S

(1941-1962)

326 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills; moved to 240 S. Rodeo Drive in 1951.

The charming, illusory and dapper ``prince'' Mike Romanoff, whose background was not at all princely, opened this see-and-be-seen legendary hang-out with competing studio heads Darryl Zanuck and Jack Warner as investors. Seating was of utmost importance - and celebs vied for the five ``A'' booths across from the bar.

Signature dishes: Coulibiac of salmon; bouillabaisse Marseillaise; saddle of lamb; cherries jubilee; individual chocolate souffles.

Celebrity clients: Humphrey Bogart, Louis B. Mayer, Darryl Zanuck, Clark Gable, Lana Turner, Cole Porter and Alfred Hitchcock.

SCANDIA 

(1946-1989)

9131 Sunset Blvd. (originally), then moved to 9040 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, in 1957.

When Kenneth Hansen and Teddy, his sister, both natives of Copenhagen, opened the restaurant in the '40s, they served German, brasserie-style food. Hansen started the Vikings of Scandia, an all-male drinking and eating club. Members consisted of stars and businessman. When the restaurant moved, sophisticated Danish and continental fare was added to the menu. The wine cellar was available for special parties. At its peak, Scandia was purportedly the finest Scandinavian restaurant in the country.

Signature dishes: Gravlaks; mustard dill sauce; shrimp in dill sauce; veal Oskar; Swedish meat balls; stuffed cabbage; herring pots; chocolate mousse (Othello) cake.

Celebrity clients: Rita Hayworth, Gary Cooper, Marilyn Monroe, Ingrid Bergman, Marlene Dietrich, Cornel Wilde and Rosalind Russell.

MA MAISON

(1973-1985)

8368 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles.

This laid-back eatery with makeshift decor and an unlisted phone number catered to Hollywood's elite and celebrated stars as well as politicians and others for more than a decade. Owner Patrick Terrail's uncle, Claude Terrail, owned La Tour D'Argent in Paris. Terrail referred to the patio area as a ``shower curtain with AstroTurf.'' Terrail received poor reviews in the beginning for his brochettes-only menu. Within six months, a then-unknown chef, Wolfgang Puck, arrived and the restaurant took off. Without a standing reservation, it was impossible to get a table at lunchtime on Fridays. Terrail never allowed the paparazzi to go past a certain wall - and pictures were not allowed inside the restaurant.

Signature dishes: Chicken salad; warm lobster salad; sabayon of fresh fruit with strawberry sauce.

Celebrity clients: Orson Welles (he ate lunch and dinner there every day), Gene Kelly, Ed McMahon, Cary Grant, Loni Anderson, Sylvester Stallone, Johnny Carson.

What makes a successful celebrity restaurant?

1. Location, location, location.

Like Wolfgang Puck says, ``It would be difficult to draw all the celebs if I opened a restaurant in Indianapolis. I wanted to be on the Westside.

``It's because it's where it was,'' opines Lazaroff.

2. Who you know.

Celebs follow the celebs. Like Bernard Erpicum says, it's often just as important who is sitting next to you as whether you got the prime table.

3. Good food and service.

Celebs like to be treated well and want top-quality food just like the rest of us.

``It's OK to make celebs happy,'' says Puck, ``but the rest of the clientele should also be treated as if they were celebs.''

4. The mix.

``It's a combination of things,'' says Mark Peel, chef and co-owner of Campanile and first Spago resident chef de cuisine. ``Location, timing, personality, the way a room 'feels.' '' < ``The restaurant caught on,'' says Nancy Silverton, ``because it was such a fun place to eat. Puck and Lazaroff make dining fun - and the food was great and the energy was strong because of the eclectic combination of people.''

5. Timing.

``Spago came at the right time,'' says Jannis Swerman, director of communications, Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining and Wolfgang Puck Worldwide Inc., a 19-year veteran of Puck's restaurants. ``The restaurant created a marriage between fine dining and a relaxed atmosphere that no one had seen before. It had to do with Barbara's design concept and the open kitchen.''

6. Exposure and publicity.

Puck and Spago were constantly in the limelight - in newspapers, magazines, columns and the like - throughout the country. Unlike some chefs, Puck has always been accessible to the media. Spago got mega-publicity (and worldwide television coverage) before, during and after the Academy Awards when ``Swifty'' Lazar's annual Oscar dinner and after-party moved there from the Bistro in 1985 - and also with Puck cooking for the Governors Ball.

- Larry Lipson and Natalie Haughton

< CELEBRITY PALATES

1. Joan Collins A. Duck sausage pizza

2. Gene Kelly B. Perrier with Compari

3. Billy Wilder C. Steak au poivre 

4. Linda Evans D. Vodka martini, straight up

5. Carol Channing E. Austrian desserts

6. ``Swifty'' Lazar F. Smoked salmon pizza topped with caviar

7. Jackie Collin G. Cheval Blanc

8. Dodi Fayed H. Extra-dry vodka martini with extra onions

9. Michael Ovitz I. Salmon with mustard sauce

10. Dyan Cannon J. Brought own food in silver containers)

ANSWERS: 1-F, 2-C, 3-E, 4-A, 5-J, 6-D, 7-B, 8-H, 9-G, 10-I

CAPTION(S):

10 photos, 4 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- 2 -- cover -- color) GOODNIGHT Spago

The Stars have migrated to Beverly Hills, so the lights are going out in Hollywood

(3 -- color) Spago owners Wolfgang Puck and his wife, restaurant designer Barbara Lazaroff.

Andy Holzman/Staff Photographer

(4 -- color) Irving ``Swifty'' Lazar

(5 -- 6) no caption (restaurants)

(7) Chasen

(8) no caption (Joan Collins)

(9) no caption (Carol Channing)

(10) no caption (Gene Kelly)

Box: (1) `Swifty' Lazar's Oscar Parties (see text)

(2) A few other landmark restaurants that have come and gone (see text)

Sources: ``Hollywood du Jour: Lost Recipes of Legendary Hollywood Haunts,'' and ``Chasen's: Where Hollywood Dined, Recipes & Memories,'' by Betty Goodwin, Angel City Press; ``A Taste of Hollywood: The Story of Ma Maison,'' by Patrick A. Terrail; and ``The Brown Derby Cookbook: 50th Anniversary Edition, 1926-76,'' The Brown Derby International Ltd.

Compiled by Natalie Haughton, food editor

(3) What makes a successful Celebrity restaurant? (see text)

(4) Celebrity Palates (see text)