THE CORE OF KOREAN DINING.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic KOBA, a new, spanking spanking Pediatrics Corporal punishment, usually of children, in which the buttocks, are pummeled, swatted, or otherwise struck. See Corporal punishment Sexology Slapping, usually of the buttocks as a part of sexuoerotic activity. Cf Sadomasochism. clean, little Korean cafe in Reseda, cooks up tasty familiar dishes like galbee (sometimes spelled gal-bi) and bulgogi, but also delivers a few intriguing Western-inspired recipes (potato pizza, pork cutlet sandwich on white toast) as well. In its small 42-seat dining room, Koba looks like it was conceived to be a fast-food place with orders taken at the counter. But it isn't. The hostess/waitress/co-owner, a charming young woman named Eunah, comes to the table, takes orders and delivers food promptly. However, if and when Koba begins to fill its seats, it will be interesting to see how a single server/cashier/you-name-it can handle a crowded dining room. Meanwhile, from the efficient kitchen come forth little accompanying dishes in true Korean style whenever a main dish is ordered. With either the galbee ($12.95), which is sliced beef ribs that have been marinated in a sweet soy mixture, or the bulgogi ($10.95), similarly marinated sliced beef off the bone, diners receive a small bowl of tasty soup (one day it was potato, another time a simple chicken broth Noun 1. chicken broth - a stock made with chicken chicken stock broth, stock - liquid in which meat and vegetables are simmered; used as a basis for e.g. soups or sauces; "she made gravy with a base of beef stock" ), an iceberg lettuce iceberg lettuce n. A crisp, round, compact head of lettuce with light green, tightly folded leaves. [From its pale color. salad, a bowl of steamed rice and several condiments. Little bowls of both cabbage kimchi kim·chi also kim·chee n. pl. kim·chis also kim·chees A Korean dish made of vegetables, such as cabbage or radishes, that are salted, seasoned, and stored in sealed containers to undergo lactic acid fermentation. and marinated bean sprouts bean sprouts pl.n. The tender, edible seedlings of certain bean plants, especially those of the mung bean. are regulars. Others could be zucchini rounds, daikon dai·kon n. A white radish (Raphanus sativus var. longipinnatus) of Japan, having a long root that is eaten raw, pickled, or cooked. Also called Chinese radish, Japanese radish, Oriental radish. strips, seasoned tofu tofu Soft, bland, custardlike food product made from soybeans. Believed to date from China's Han dynasty (206 BC–AD 220), tofu is today an important source of protein in the cuisines of East and Southeast Asia. rectangles and/or tiny, thin circles of kimchi pancake or potato pancake. Incidentally, the full-size versions of the pancakes ($3.55 each) provide a nifty, shareable appetizer. Each is served with a soy-based dipping sauce. The same dipping sauce also arrives with an order of Koba's freshly made, crispy fried dumplings (six for $4.99), a worthy alternative starter. Caution though, is absolutely necessary here for those who can't handle spicy-hot food. When Koba says it's spicy, its kitchen isn't kidding around. Take, for example, its spicy chicken platter ($10.95). This arrives as a hillock hillock /hill·ock/ (hil´ok) a small prominence or elevation. hill·ock n. A small protuberance or elevation, as from an organ, a tissue, or other structure. of chicken pieces, orangey-reddish in hue, moist on the inside, exteriors covered with hot chile paste. Ditto for the spicy pork, which is available separately ($10.95) or in tandem with crunchy, chewable baby squid in a deliciously fiery dish titled jukumi samkyupsal ($11.95 for dinner, $7.99 at lunchtime). Koba's rabokgi ($6.95) seems just as peppery pep·per·y adj. 1. Of, containing, or resembling pepper; sharp or pungent in flavor. 2. Vigorously sharp-tempered: a peppery sales clerk. 3. , maybe even more so. This translates into small, thick rice oblongs, gelatinous gelatinous /ge·lat·i·nous/ (je-lat´i-nus) like jelly or softened gelatin. ge·lat·i·nous adj. 1. Of, relating to, or containing gelatin. 2. Resembling gelatin; viscous. fish-based triangles, ramen-type noodles noo·dle 1 n. A narrow, ribbonlike strip of dried dough, usually made of flour, eggs, and water. [German Nudel. and vegetables in a red, spicy-hot liquid. Enjoy this with slugs of chilled, green tea-flavored soju, the Korean fermented potato ``wine,'' and you'll feel you have discovered the soul of Seoul. For those with milder needs, the kitchen deep-fries and then bakes its batter-coated Koba special chicken ($9.95) that comes forth sizzling siz·zle intr.v. siz·zled, siz·zling, siz·zles 1. To make the hissing sound characteristic of frying fat. 2. To seethe with anger or indignation. 3. and of wonderful aroma. Strip-sliced for easy handling with chopsticks, it'll convince you that not all Korean fare has just escaped from Dante's Inferno. More mildness, but with plenty of flavor, results from the bibim bab rice dishes here. One, dolsot bibim bab ($7.95), emerges as a most satisfying offering in a black stone pot with its rice topped with egg and 10 vegetables. It's customary to mix everything together while adding any seasoning desired. Of course, you could always add some hot sauce or kimchi and make this dish one more high-octane palate tingler. At Koba, the choice is yours. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com KOBA Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Two and one half stars - Value: Three and one half stars Where: 7608 Reseda Blvd., Reseda. Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. Recommended items: Korean-style pancakes (potato or kimchi), fried dumplings, duk bok gi (rice cakes with vegetables and hot chile sauce), galbee (barbecued marinated beef ribs), spicy chicken, jukumi samkyupsal (baby squid with spicy marinated pork), Koba special chicken, dolsot bibim bab (vegetables with egg and rice in stone pot), saan soju. How much: Appetizers from $3 to $6.50, entrees from $6 to $12, desserts $2 and $4. Beer and soju. MC, V. Reservations: Only taken for parties of 20 or more. Call (818) 757-7078. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Koba, a new Korean eatery in Reseda, offers fiery-hot jukumi samkyupsal - baby squid with marinated spicy pork. Tom Mendoza/Staff Photographer |
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