THE BIG CHILL KEEP COOL WITH HOMEMADE ICE CREAM CREATIONS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

On a sweltering day, nothing beats a cone or bowl of luscious, cool and creamy ice cream.

``Ice cream is firmly embedded in our culture -- and you can serve it in hundreds of ways -- in a sandwich or on a stick, in a shake, or with a cake, or as part of a plated dessert,'' notes pastry chef Emily Luchetti, author of the recently released, ``A Passion for Ice Cream: 95 Recipes for Fabulous Desserts'' (Chronicle Books; $35).

Whether it's plain vanilla or chocolate, or with names like bittersweet chocolate chunks, s'mores, caramel swirl or peanut butter toffee, ice cream is enjoyed by 90 percent of this country's population.

It's so popular that per capita consumption of ice cream and frozen desserts in 2004 was about 21.5 quarts per person, according to the United States Department of Agriculture. The same year, regular ice cream accounted for almost 60 percent of the frozen dessert market, with reduced fat, light, low-fat and nonfat ice cream making up about 28 percent and frozen yogurt some 4 percent.

Vanilla is the most popular flavor (26 percent) followed by chocolate (12.9 percent), Neapolitan (4.8 percent), strawberry (4.3 percent) and cookies 'n' cream (4 percent), according to a trend survey.

When it comes to sundaes, 31 percent of Americans prefer hot fudge over a banana split. And hot fudge or chocolate was the favorite topping choice (53 percent).

Luchetti, currently the executive pastry chef at Farallon restaurant in San Francisco, encourages consumers to try their hand at homemade ice cream. ``What makes it (homemade ice cream) better than store-bought is its intense fresh taste and creamy texture. It contains no preservatives or stabilizers.''

Among the numerous flavors Luchetti offers -- and uses in an array of dessert creations -- are blackberry, cappuccino-chocolate chip, chocolate-covered-pretzel, creme fraiche, mascarpone, nectarine, peach, rum raisin and more. A list of the various flavors is included in the back of her book.

``Ice cream can be made with surprisingly little effort, and the result is an incomparable treat,'' writes Heidi Johannsen in the July issue of Martha Stewart Living.

But making ice cream requires some time and advance planning, since in most recipes an ice cream base is cooked on top of the stove in advance and must be chilled several hours prior to churning in an ice cream machine.

``There are two types of ice cream,'' says Luchetti. ``Philadelphia style is made without eggs, and French (or custard) has a custard base of egg yolks cooked with milk and cream. Both are equally good -- they are just different.''

When it comes to ice cream makers, there are many options, depending on your budget, that make good ice cream. ``Most machines use one of three different methods: They freeze the ice cream using rock salt and ice, or a prefrozen insert, or a built-in freezing unit (with Freon), says Luchetti.

``If you don't use an ice cream machine and just pour the base into a pan and freeze it, you will get a very icy ice cream. The constant turning of the ice cream base in an ice cream machine as it freezes breaks up the ice crystals that form and makes the ice cream smooth.''

If you're planning to make large amounts of ice cream, opt for the White Mountain machine, available in either electric or hand-crank versions (in 4- and 6-quart sizes) that uses rock salt and ice and takes a half-hour to freeze the ice cream, recommends Luchetti. If making a smaller amount, the Cuisinart and KitchenAid machines that use pre-frozen inserts (which must be frozen 8 to 12 hours before using) are relatively inexpensive choices. The Cadillacs of ice cream makers are those like the Lello, Lussino and Lesso brands (which are very pricey -- some in the $1,000 range) which have a Freon unit built in. Simply turn them on, and within 20 minutes you'll have freshly churned ice cream. ``They can make ice cream all day long without stopping.''

You can eat homemade ice cream just after churning, but it will be a bit soft -- and not hard enough to scoop. If you like your ice cream more solid, stash it in the freezer 2 to 4 hours or overnight to harden it. If frozen, use within a week -- and move it to the refrigerator 10 to 15 minutes before serving so it's easier to scoop, advises Luchetti.

When you make homemade ice cream, you appreciate the flavor and enjoy it so much more, says Luchetti. < Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

MASCARPONE GELATO

2 cups whole milk

2 cups heavy whipping cream

2/3 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

2 cups (16 ounces) mascarpone cheese at room temperature

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

2/3 cup pine nuts, toasted

In a medium saucepan, combine milk, cream and sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until sugar is dissolved, then cook until bubbles form around edges of pan. Remove from heat. Add vanilla bean, scraping seeds into milk, and let stand 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

Remove vanilla pod. Stir in mascarpone, lemon zest and pine nuts. Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions.

Makes 1 1/2 quarts; 6 servings

From ``Gelato! Italian Ice Creams, Sorbetti & Granite,'' by Pamela Sheldon Johns.

GINGERSNAP LEMON ICE CREAM SANDWICHES

LEMON ICE CREAM:

1 1/2 cups whole milk

3 cups heavy whipping cream

Zest stripped from 2 lemons

1 cup sugar

6 large egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

TO ASSEMBLE:

24 large gingersnap cookies, homemade OR store-bought

To make Lemon Ice Cream: Combine milk, cream, lemon zest and 1/2 cup sugar in a heavy saucepan. Cook, stirring frequently, over medium heat until almost simmering. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks, remaining 1/2 cup sugar and salt. Slowly pour hot liquid into egg mixture, whisking as you pour. Return mixture to saucepan. Cook, over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a heat-resistant plastic or a wooden spatula, until custard reaches 175 degrees F and lightly coats spatula.

Strain custard into a clean bowl and cool over an ice bath until it reaches room temperature. Stir in lemon juice. Refrigerate custard at least 4 hours, or up to overnight. Churn in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Freeze until scoopable, about 4 hours, depending on your freezer.

To assemble sandwiches: Place 12 cookies, bottom side up, on work surface. Place a large scoop of ice cream on each. Top with a second cookie, bottom side against ice cream, and gently press to adhere sandwiches together. Serve immediately, or freeze until ready to serve. Once frozen, wrap well in plastic wrap, or store in an airtight container.

Makes 12 ice cream sandwiches

IN ADVANCE: Frozen sandwiches can be assembled a couple of days in advance and kept frozen.

From ``A Passion for Ice Cream,'' by Emily Luchetti.

PEACH GELATO

4 cups whole milk

4 ripe peaches, peeled, pitted and chopped (about 2 cups)

Juice of 1 lemon

3/4 cup sugar

4 egg yolks

In a medium saucepan, heat milk over medium heat until bubbles form around edges of pan. Set aside and cover to keep hot.

In a blender or food processor, puree peaches, lemon juice and 1/4 cup sugar until smooth. Set aside.

In a blender or food processor, beat remaining 1/2 cup sugar and egg yolks together until very thick. With machine running, gradually add hot milk. Return mixture to the saucepan.

Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon 6 to 8 minutes, or until mixture thickens and coats the back of the spoon. Remove from heat and set pan in a bowl of ice water. Stir 2 minutes to cool mixture. Stir in peach mixture. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled

Transfer mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions.

Makes 1 1/2 quarts; 6 servings

From ``Gelato! Italian Ice Creams, Sorbetti & Granite,'' by Pamela Sheldon Johns.

CHO CHO CHO

MULTI-CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM:

6 large egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 cups whole milk

2 cups heavy whipping cream

5 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped into chunks

4 ounces milk chocolate, chopped into chunks

BROWNIES:

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1 ounce unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

5 ounces (10 tablespoons) unsalted butter

3 large eggs

1 1/4 cups sugar

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

TO SERVE:

Cocoa Sauce, cold (see Page 11)

To make Multi-Chocolate Ice Cream: In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks, 1/4 cup sugar and salt. Combine milk, cream and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until almost simmering. Slowly pour milk and cream into egg mixture, whisking as you pour. Return cream mixture to saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a heat-resistant plastic or wooden spatula, until the custard reaches 175 degrees F and lightly coats spatula. Whisk in white chocolate until melted.

Strain custard into a clean bowl and cool over an ice bath until room temperature. Refrigerate custard for at least 4 hours or up to overnight. Place dark and milk chocolates in a bowl and place bowl in freezer. Churn ice cream base in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Fold ice cream into chocolate. Freeze until scoopable, about 4 hours, depending on your freezer.

To make Brownies: Grease bottom of a 9x13-inch baking pan and line with parchment paper. Melt chocolates and butter in a double boiler over hot water. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs and sugar. Whisk in melted chocolate mixture. Sift together and then stir in flour, salt, baking powder and cocoa powder. Spread batter in prepared pan.

Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven about 20 minutes, until a skewer inserted in center comes out fudgy and not dry. Let cool to room temperature. Run a knife around inside edge of pan. Place a cutting board on top of pan. Invert pan and board. Remove pan and carefully peel off parchment paper.

To serve: Trim edges off brownies and cut into 1x3-inch rectangles. Place 2 or 3 pieces right side up on each plate. (There will be extra brownies for nibbling.) Place a scoop of ice cream on top of brownies. Cover with Cocoa Sauce. Serve immediately.

Makes 8 servings

IN ADVANCE: The brownies can be made up to 2 days in advance. Store at room temperature, wrapped in plastic wrap.

From ``A Passion for Ice Cream,'' by Emily Luchetti.

EASY STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM

3 cups (1 1/2 pints) half-and-half

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated milk)

1 tablespoon vanilla

1 cup pureed OR mashed strawberries

Red food coloring (optional)

In an ice cream freezer container, combine all ingredients; mix well. Freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Freeze leftovers.

Makes about 1 1/2 quarts

REFRIGERATOR-FREEZER METHOD: Omit half-and-half. In a large bowl, combine sweetened condensed milk and vanilla; stir in pureed strawberries and food coloring (optional). Fold in 2 cups (1 pint) whipping cream, whipped. Pour into 9x5-inch loaf pan or other 2-quart container; cover. Freeze 6 hours or until firm. Store leftovers covered in freezer.

OLD-FASHIONED VANILLA ICE CREAM

1 quart half-and-half

1/2 cup sugar

2 vanilla beans, halved lengthwise, seeds scraped (beans discarded)

1/4 teaspoon salt

Stir together all ingredients, and freeze in an ice cream maker.

Makes 1 1/2 quarts

From Martha Stewart Living magazine, July 2006 issue.

AND TO TOP IT OFF...

Here are some easy sauces to whip up to top your delicious homemade (or, in a pinch, store-bought) ice creams. Make them in advance of serving, if desired, store in the fridge, and reheat a very short time in the microwave, watching carefully.

CARAMEL SAUCE

1 1/2 cups sugar

Water

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Stir together sugar and 1/2 cup water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. When sugar has dissolved, increase heat to high. Cook, without stirring, until mixture is medium amber, 7 to 8 minutes.

Remove from heat. Carefully stir in cream (it will steam), then vanilla and salt. Let cool 5 minutes. Whisk in butter.

Makes about 2 cups

From Martha Stewart Living magazine, July 2006 issue.

COCOA SAUCE

Serve warm or cold.

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 cups water

1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

Stir sugar and 1 cup water together in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook about 15 seconds until sugar is dissolved.

In a small bowl, whisk together cocoa powder and remaining 1 cup water. Whisk cocoa mixture into sugar mixture. Return to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens slightly, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

IN ADVANCE: The sauce can be made 1 week in advance. Rewarm gently over low heat to serve warm.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups

From ``A Passion for Ice Cream,'' by Emily Luchetti.

CHOCOLATE-PEANUT BUTTER SAUCE

1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1/4 cup creamy natural peanut butter

Heat cream in a saucepan over medium heat until it begins to bubble around edges. Turn off heat and add chocolate. Cover pan and let stand 5 minutes. Add peanut butter and whisk until smooth.

Let cool slightly and serve. Sauce can be reheated in a double boiler or microwave.

NOTE: To serve the sauce cold, add another 1/2 cup cream. The sauce can be made up to 2 weeks in advance. Cover and refrigerate.

Makes about 2 cups

From ``A Passion for Ice Cream,'' by Emily Luchetti.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Scoop du jour

Cool summer treats start with homemade ice cream

(2 -- color) For CHO CHO CHO and other recipes see page 12

(3 -- color) LIME ICE CREAM WITH BLUEBERRIES

(4 -- color) GINGERSNAP LEMON ICE CREAM SANDWICHES

Box:

AND TO TOP IT OFF... (see text)