THAT WARM FEELING SLOW COOKERS ARE HOT AGAIN.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Those trusty slow cookers have been bubbling along - and all of a sudden they've come back to life.

From 2000 to 2002, the number of U.S. households that owned a slow cooker or Crock-Pot jumped from 60 percent to 72 percent.

``People are busier than ever and want great food, even beautiful food, without putting much time and effort into it. And the slow cooker fits that need,'' says Abbie Henderson, with the parent group of the Rival brand.

The recent slow-cooker growth may also have been fueled by renewed interest in familiar, down-home-style cooking, which was evident in the entries in the last Pillsbury Bake-Off, says Marlene Johnson, with Pillsbury Cookbooks at General Mills. ``The contest recipe screeners referred to it as church cookbook food.''

With the renewed interest come a number of new cookbooks on the topic, many with more innovative and creative dishes.

Pillsbury's recently released hardcover volume, ``Pillsbury Doughboy Slow Cooker Recipes,'' was prompted by a digest paperback cookbook produced a year ago that was the best-selling issue ever, says Johnson. ``What it said to us is that people love cooking with them (slow cookers) and are looking for more things to do in them.''

``We understand from talking to consumers while working on the cookbook that there is this great feeling of walking in the door at the end of the day and being greeted by dinner, ready to eat. It's a wonderful, emotional, satisfying thing to have happen.''

Beyond making family meals, slow cookers lend themselves to potlucks, office parties and holiday or other entertaining, says Lois Tlusty, manager of book publishing for General Mills Inc. For holidays, use the slow cooker for baked or steamed potatoes (pierce, oil, wrap potatoes individually in foil and cook on low 6 to 8 hours).

Although consumers can choose from an array of slow cookers from Hamilton Beach, West Bend and a few other companies, Rival has cornered 85 percent of the market, says Henderson.

``In the last two years, sales of Rival slow cookers have increased 20 percent,'' she notes, adding that users of slow cookers are generally women ages 25 to 50 with children.

Today, Rival, which has sold more than 100 million Crock-Pots since the company introduced them in 1971, offers 30 different models in round or oval shapes ranging in size from a 16-ounce and 1 1/2-quart to 7-quart in a variety of designs and colors. All, except the 16-ounce, have removable, dishwasher-safe stoneware pots that can go directly from refrigerator to slow cooker (but cannot be frozen).

The latest concept pots from Rival are the four programmable Smart Pots. The Recipe Smart Pot model was introduced last April. It's a 5 1/2-quart oval with a programmable touch pad with more than 200 preprogrammed recipes and a screen that displays the recipe desired. The pot automatically programs and cooks the dish selected.

West Bend offers two different product lines - four models referred to as slow cookers but what some cookbooks call ``intermittent cookers.'' In these, the heating element is in the base. A separate cooking container is placed on the base, and the heat cycles on and off to maintain a constant temperature.

There are also eight models of Crockery Cookers (housed in a metal unit so the heat, even though it comes from the base, surrounds the crockery insert). The newest Crockery Cooker features a design on the insert so it can double as a serving dish.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

ASIAN HOISIN RIBS

3 pounds pork bone-in country-style ribs

1 medium onion, sliced

1/2 cup hoisin sauce 

1/3 cup seasoned rice vinegar 

1/4 cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon grated ginger root OR 1 teaspoon ground ginger

2 teaspoons sesame oil 

Fresh cilantro leaves (optional)

Place ribs in 3 1/2- to 4-quart slow cooker. Cover with onion slices. Mix remaining ingredients except cilantro; pour over ribs and onion.

Cover and cook on low heat setting 8 to 10 hours or until ribs are tender. Remove ribs to serving platter; keep warm. Skim fat from surface of juices in cooker. Serve ribs with sauce; sprinkle with cilantro. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Betty Crocker More Slow Cooker Recipes: All-New Recipes Easier Than Ever.''

LAMB SHANKS IN TOMATO SAUCE

1 cinnamon stick, broken into pieces

4 whole cloves

8 allspice berries

1 tablespoon olive oil 

4 lamb shanks, trimmed

1 large yellow onion, chopped

1/4 cup Metaxa (Greek brandy) OR other brandy

2 cups peeled and coarsely chopped fresh tomatoes OR 1 (14 1/2-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper 

Combine cinnamon, cloves and allspice in a mortar or coffee grinder and grind into a fine powder.

Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add oil. Add lamb and cook, turning 7 to 10 minutes, until browned on all sides. Using tongs, transfer lamb to a 5-quart slow cooker.

Add onion to saute pan and cook, stirring frequently 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Add spice mixture and brandy to onion and stir 2 to 3 minutes to scrape up the browned bits from bottom of pan. Add tomatoes and stir well. Pour over lamb shanks in slow cooker.

Cover and cook on low heat setting 6 to 8 hours, until meat is very tender and easily comes away from bone. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide lamb and sauce among dinner plates and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

From ``The Gourmet Slow Cooker: Simple and Sophisticated Meals From Around the World,'' by Lynn Alley.

SWEET-AND-SOUR CHICKEN

1 1/2 cups baby-cut carrots

6 large boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 2 pounds)

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 1/3 cups sweet-and-sour sauce

1 (20-ounce) can pineapple chunks in juice, drained

1 (1-pound) bag frozen stir-fry bell peppers and onions, thawed and drained

6 cups hot cooked rice

Place carrots in 3 1/2- to 4-quart slow cooker. Top with chicken; sprinkle with red pepper. Cover and cook on low heat setting 6 to 7 hours or until juice of chicken is no longer pink when center of thickest pieces are cut. Remove chicken from cooker; drain and discard liquid from cooker. Return chicken to cooker. Pour sweet-and-sour sauce over chicken; top with pineapple and stir-fry vegetables. Cover and cook on high heat setting 45 to 60 minutes or until carrots are tender. Serve with rice. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Betty Crocker More Slow Cooker Recipes: All-New Recipes Easier Than Ever.''

ITALIAN SAUSAGE LASAGNA

3/4 pound bulk Italian pork sausage

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 (15-ounce) cans Italian-style tomato sauce

2 teaspoons dried basil leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 (15-ounce) container part-skim ricotta cheese 

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese 

12 ounces (3 cups) shredded mozzarella cheese

12 ounces (12 noodles) uncooked lasagna noodles

In large skillet, cook sausage and onion over medium heat 6 to 8 minutes or until sausage is no longer pink, stirring occasionally. Drain. Add tomato sauce, basil and salt; mix well.

In medium bowl, combine ricotta cheese, Parmesan cheese and 2 cups mozzarella.

Spoon 1/4 of sausage mixture into 3 1/2- to 5-quart slow cooker. Top with 4 noodles, broken into pieces to fit. Top with 1/2 of cheese mixture and 1/4 of sausage mixture. Top with 4 noodles, remaining cheese mixture and 1/4 of sausage mixture. Top with remaining 4 noodles and remaining sausage mixture. Cover; cook on low heat setting 6 to 8 hours.

About 10 minutes before serving, sprinkle top of lasagna with remaining 1 cup mozzarella cheese. Cover; let stand about 10 minutes or until cheese is melted. Cut lasagna into pieces. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Pillsbury Doughboy Slow Cooker Recipes: 140 New Ways to Have Dinner Ready and Waiting!'' by the Pillsbury Editors.

CAULIFLOWER CURRY

4 cups cauliflowerets

3 medium tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped (2 1/4 cups)

1 medium onion, chopped (1/2 cup)

1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk (NOT cream of coconut)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons curry powder 

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried basil leaves

6 ounces baby spinach leaves

Mix cauliflowerets, tomatoes and onion in 3 1/2-to 4-quart slow cooker. Mix remaining ingredients except spinach; pour over vegetables. Cover and cook on low heat setting 4 to 6 hours or until cauliflowerets are tender. Stir in spinach leaves. Cover and cook on low heat setting 10 to 15 minutes or until spinach is tender. Spoon into small bowls to serve. Makes 8 or more servings.

From ``Betty Crocker More Slow Cooker Recipes: All-New Recipes Easier Than Ever.''

MEXICAN MINESTRONE

2 cups chopped red-skinned potatoes

2 cups frozen cut green beans 

2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed and drained

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans Mexican-style stewed tomatoes, undrained

2 (14-ounce) cans vegetable broth

1 (15 1/4-ounce) can whole kernel corn, rinsed and drained

1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans (chickpeas), rinsed and drained

1 cup bottled salsa

Dairy sour cream (optional)

In a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker, combine potatoes and frozen green beans. Add black beans, Mexican-style tomatoes, vegetable broth, corn, garbanzo beans and salsa.

Cover and cook on low heat setting 9 to 11 hours or on high-heat setting 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 hours. If desired, top each serving with sour cream. Makes 12 servings.

From ``Better Homes and Gardens Simple Slow Cooker Recipes.''

BOURBON-GLAZED COCKTAIL SAUSAGES

1 (16-ounce) package cocktail wieners OR small cooked smoked sausage links

1/2 cup apricot preserves

1/4 cup pure maple syrup 

1 tablespoon bourbon OR orange juice

In a 1 1/2-quart slow cooker, combine cocktail wieners, apricot preserves, maple syrup and bourbon. Cover and cook 4 hours.

Serve immediately or keep warm up to 1 hour. Serve wieners with wooden toothpicks. Makes 12 servings.

NOTE: Some 1 1/2-quart slow cookers include variable heat settings; others offer only one standard (low) setting. This recipe was tested on the low heat setting.

TO DOUBLE RECIPE: Double the ingredient amounts, using 1 package cocktail wieners and 1 package sausage links. Cover and cook in a 3 1/2- or 4-quart slow cooker on low heat setting 4 hours.

From ``Better Homes and Gardens Simple Slow Cooker Recipes.''

TRIPLE RICH CHOCOLATE CAKE

1 (18-ounce) box devil's food cake mix

4 eggs

1 cup light sour cream

3/4 cup vegetable oil

1 cup water

1 (3-ounce) package INSTANT chocolate pudding and pie filling mix

1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Combine all ingredients by hand (do not use a mixer) in a 2-quart mixing bowl. Pour batter into a greased 3 1/2- to 5-quart slow cooker. Cover and cook on low heat setting 5 to 6 hours or until done in center. DO NOT cook this recipe on high heat setting. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

From ``101 Things to Do With a Slow Cooker,'' by Stephanie Ashcraft and Janet Eyring.

Taste these

Some of the newest cookbooks on the theme:

``Betty Crocker More Slow Cooker Recipes: All-New Recipes Easier Than Ever'' (Wiley Publishing; $22.95). This volume serves up 130 enticing recipes that run the gamut from appetizers, soups, stews, dinners and potluck offerings to leftovers and holiday treats, along with 50 color photos. Look elsewhere for desserts - only three included.

``Pillsbury Doughboy Slow Cooker Recipes'' by the Pillsbury Editors (Clarkson Potter/Publishers; $19.95). Features a combination of classics like beef stew along with some new flavors and kinds of recipes - 140 total - that showcase the versatility of the pot. You'll find dishes you never thought possible to cook in the pot (Italian Sausage Lasagna, for instance).

``The Gourmet Slow Cooker: Simple and Sophisticated Meals Ffrom Around the World'' by Lynn Alley (Ten Speed Press; $18.95). Presents 55 fresh ideas with an epicurean approach, many with color photos. The author adapted favorite ethnic recipes to this cooking style, but many seem a bit complicated to fix.

``Better Homes and Gardens Simple Slow Cooker Recipes'' (Meredith Books; $19.95). What a bargain - 390 recipes that take 30 minutes or less of prep time! No photos, but every category is covered, from appetizers, snacks and beverages to desserts and stocking the pantry.

``Busy People's Slow Cooker Cookbook'' by Dawn Hall (Rutledge Hill Press; $16.99). This volume uses some products that are a turn-off - canned peas, Butter Buds, fat-free shredded Cheddar cheese, fat-free beef-flavored gravy, etc. - and unappealing. Wouldn't be my pick, but suit yourself.

``101 Things to Do With a Slow Cooker'' by Stephanie Ashcraft and Janet Eyring (Gibbs Smith; $9.95). Based on the throw-and-go concept, this is a small, compact book with affordable recipes like Salsa Fever Soup, Shepherd's Pie, Orange Chicken and Lemon Custard Cake.

``Better Homes and Gardens Low-Carb Slow Cooker Recipes'' (Meredith Books; $14.95). More than 200 recipes for low-carb diners. No dish requires more than half an hour of prep time. Some of the carb counts per serving seemed high, but it's up to the individual to pick and choose what fits into his/her eating plan.

- N.H.

Slow and easy tips

Tips and tricks for slow-cooker success from some of the new cookbooks and experts.

--For easier cleanup, spray the inside of the slow cooker pot with cooking oil spray before adding food.

--For best results, most manufacturers recommend filling slow cookers half to three-quarters full. Refer to the instruction manual that came with your pot.

--Vegetables like potatoes and carrots take longer to cook, so cut in smaller pieces and place in the bottom of the slow cooker.

--To keep fat to a minimum, and to keep it from swimming in the pot at the end of the cooking time, remove excess skin from poultry and excess fat from meat. Also, use lean cuts of meat.

--For best texture, color and flavor, ground beef, turkey, chicken and other ground meats should be browned on top of the stove in a skillet, then drained of excess fat, before adding to the slower cooker. Most other meats and poultry (with few exceptions) don't need browning.

--For more flavor in stews and soups, use canned fat-free broths instead of water.

--If you need to change the timing of a recipe (unless the recipe specifies that it can only be cooked on one setting), figure that an hour on the high heat setting is equivalent to about two hours on the low heat setting.

--Because flavor is diluted with long, slow cooking, adjust herbs, spices and seasonings during the last half-hour of cooking time. Add fresh herbs for best flavor.

--Since hot pepper sauces (like Tabasco) and ground red pepper (cayenne) have a tendency to become bitter during long cooking, use small amounts at the beginning of cooking and add more as necessary before serving.

--Because dairy products have a tendency to curdle, add items like sour cream, milk and cheeses during the last half-hour of cooking.

--To avoid toughening, add fish and seafood during the last hour of cooking.

--For the most appealing dishes (depending on recipe), add frozen thawed vegetables during the last 30 minutes of cooking time so they will retain their bright color and have a crisp-tender texture.

--Perk up the color and flavor of dishes before serving by garnishing with chopped fresh herbs, chopped green onions or tomatoes, shredded cheeses, guacamole, sour cream, chopped nuts, etc.

--To adapt a favorite recipe, use a similar slow cooker recipe as a guide. Generally figure you'll have to reduce the liquid in your recipe by about half, unless you're making a soup. Remember that liquids don't boil away in the slow cooker, so you'll end up with much more than in conventional cooking - and more than you even probably expect.

--To ensure that food reaches an internal temperature of 140 degrees F within four hours, use completely thawed frozen meats and poultry in the slow cooker.

--Raw meats and poultry should be cooked a minimum of three hours in the slow cooker to be sure they are cooked sufficiently.

--According to the ``Betty Crocker More Slow Cooker Recipes'' and ``Pillsbury Doughboy Slow Cooker Recipes'' cookbooks, you should not cook whole chickens in a slow cooker. The temperature near the bone won't reach the desired level quickly enough for food safety.

--If possible, use the highest heat setting for the first hour of cooking, then turn to low. However, it is safe to use low for the entire cooking time if you're in a rush.

--Use cooking times as guidelines. Pots and density of foods vary, and there may be fluctuations in electrical wattage.

--Leftovers are best reheated until hot on top of the stove or in a microwave oven, then transferred to a preheated slow cooker for keeping hot for serving. Do not reheat food in a slow cooker.

--Don't panic if you don't arrive home at the exact time the food is scheduled to be finished. Most recipes can cook a little longer with no problem, unless the recipe specifies otherwise.

-Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

6 photos, 2 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) SLOW & EASY

Slow-cooker revival means dinner is ready when you are

(2 -- color) no caption (cookbooks)

(3 -- color) ASIAN HOISIN RIBS

(4 -- color) SWEET-AND-SOUR CHICKEN

(5 -- color) ITALIAN SAUSAGE LASAGNA

(6) CAULIFLOWER CURRY

Box:

(1) Taste these (see text)

(2) Slow and easy tips (see text)