THAILAND COMES TO BURBANK.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic Up the street from Warner Bros BROS Brothers BROS Benefits and Retirement Operations Section (King County, Washington) BROS Barnes and Richmond Operatic Society (London, UK) ., the sleek Gindi Thai in Burbank is a bustling place, especially at lunchtime. It's not much different than it was during its previous incarnation as Chandra. Black-clad waiters and waitresses move around quickly. One takes a beverage and appetizer order. A little later another comes by and takes the entree order. It's well-oiled teamwork. Guess management realizes that some of the lunchers have only an hour off. But it's obvious that there is also a coterie of local lunchers present who are definitely not worried about the time and are apparently utilizing their midday meal period in a very leisurely manner. Beyond boundaries Beyond Boundaries is a documentary series produced by Diverse Bristol for BBC Two. Each series follows a team of physically disabled adventurers as they take on some of the thoughest expaditions on the Planet under the guidance of EX SAS Major Ken Hames. of Thailand Gindi's regular menu (there's also a luncheon special listing) often strays from Thailand to other Asian countries, but it's easy to understand because every dish also has a succinct description of ingredients and preparation. The multi-Asian approach is exemplified in its soup listings. Five soups priced at $5 each consist of two Thai, two Chinese and one Japanese. As for other starters, the kitchen fashions excellent, deep-fried corn fritters ($5), light and crunchy, served up with a piquant sweet-and-sour sauce. However, its ribeye salad ($9) -- tried twice -- disappoints, sprinkled with pieces of seemingly overcooked, sometimes chewy chew·y adj. chew·i·er, chew·i·est Needing much chewing: chewy candy. chew  i·ness n. beef.
Gindi improves dramatically with its seafood dishes. Skillful skill·ful adj. 1. Possessing or exercising skill; expert. See Synonyms at proficient. 2. Characterized by, exhibiting, or requiring skill. with scallops A generous portion of large sweet scallops ($16) immodestly im·mod·est adj. 1. Lacking modesty. 2. a. Offending against sexual mores in conduct or appearance; indecent: a bathing suit considered immodest by the local people. b. dubbed "giant" on the menu, arrive bathed in a white wine, chile and garlic broth accompanied by crisp, slant-cut asparagus spears that dominate a colorful vegetable mix. If you're a scallop scallop or pecten, marine bivalve mollusk. Like its close relative the oyster, the scallop has no siphons, the mantle being completely open, but it differs from other mollusks in that both mantle edges have a row of steely blue "eyes" and fancier, as I am, you'll love this plate. And ditto for the "sweet sassy sas·sy 1 adj. sas·si·er, sas·si·est 1. Rude and disrespectful; impudent. 2. Lively and spirited; jaunty. 3. Stylish; chic: a sassy little hat. sole" ($10) recipe of a quickly deep-fried filet of sole paired with crisped crisped adj. Botany Crispate. basil leaves and moistened in a spicy fruit sauce. Very nicely done. So many times we experience seafood, especially fish, served overcooked, that it's almost exhilarating to receive Gindi's oceanfare renditions. They come forth light, fluffy, moist and flavorful, a tribute to the kitchen staff's skills. Noodling
Noodling is the practice and sport of fishing for catfish using only one's bare hands. around A medium-spiced noodle plate here, pad kee-mau ($9), provides a gratifying grat·i·fy tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies 1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please. 2. , substantial Asian "pasta" addition to any meal. The familiar Chinese-style flat rice noodle is utilized in a heaping serving, relatively firm, well-tossed with onion, sweet peppers, basil leaves and chile. There's also an optional chicken, beef or tofu tofu Soft, bland, custardlike food product made from soybeans. Believed to date from China's Han dynasty (206 BC–AD 220), tofu is today an important source of protein in the cuisines of East and Southeast Asia. supplement and, for $2 extra, shrimp. Also, by calling it "drunken," there's a suggestion of something alcoholic being added in the preparation, although it's not strong enough to be discernible on the palate. A fresh, chilled bottle of Thai Sing-Ha beer ($4) provides enough alcoholic beverage accompaniment here, anyway. Particularly at lunchtime on a warm, sunny afternoon. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson@dailynews.com GINDI THAI Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Two and one half stars Where: 4017 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank. Phone: (818) 567-1221; www.gindithai.com. Meals/hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily except Sunday, for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly. Food type: Thai-Chinese-Japanese. Cost: Appetizers, soups and salads from $5 to $12; entrees from $8 to $22, desserts $5 and $6 each. Credit cards: AE, MC, V. Patio dining: Yes (during warmer weather). Parking/valet: Minimal spaces on side and rear. Valet planned in near future. Full bar: Yes. Wine/corkage: Limited options listed on menu. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $10. Music/entertainment: No. Takeout/delivery: Yes on both. Delivery limited to three-mile radius and minimum $10 order. Reservations: Taken and welcomed. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Gindi Thai's Corn Fritters -- light and crispy -- are served with a piquant sweet-and-sour sauce. Evan Yee/Staff Photographer |
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