TAKZIN THAI WINS ACCLAIM IN TARZANA : THE FACTS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Little Thai restaurants abound in Los Angeles to a point where there are sometimes several to choose from in each neighborhood.

Takzin Thai has been around for quite a while, almost unnoticed on an undistinguished part of Ventura Boulevard in Tarzana, a block where an El Torito and the County Line are much bigger and bolder restaurants.

But this narrow, small, cutesy cafe has gradually enamored Thai food fanciers in the community who've come to respect its competent kitchen, above-average ingredient quality, surprisingly generous portioning and very reasonable pricing.

If you measure a Thai kitchen by its satay, Takzin's would jump into the big leagues immediately. Moist elongated, flattened ovals of seasoned chicken or beef, usually six per regular order ($5.25, smaller portion $2.95) provide a great way to start a meal here.

But there are other, equally good starters. Honey ribs ($3.50 or $5.95), for example, are the biggest, meatiest, tastiest pork spareribs, and the Tarzana roll ($3.25 and $5.95) is a delight to the eye and the palate. The latter, formed with a rice flour crepe, is stuffed with chicken, shrimp, bean sprouts, cabbage, carrots and mint leaves, served cold, and it's delicious.

A sort of Thai version of the potato pancake, called ``triangle Thai'' ($2.50 or $4.25) brings forth yet another zingy starter offering, this time a platter of crispy, triangular-shaped deep-fried won tons stuffed with a ground chicken, onion and potato mixture flavored with a curry and spice blend. And the house egg roll ($2.50 or $4.25) is good and crunchy, not too oily, and stuffed with a fresh-tasting filling of cabbage, carrot, celery and bean threads. A sweet dipping sauce arrives with it.

Of the soups here, the spicy tom yum kai ($2.95 and $5.95) gets my nod as No. 1, the tom kah kai (same prices) being a little too milky thin and not nearly as peppery.

Standout entree-type dishes are the mushroom pork ($5.95) with up to four mushroom varieties, the Takzin steak ($7.95) of sliced marinated flank steak served with a tasty mint sauce, a hot and hearty yellow curried chicken and potato dish called karee ($6.25), a bowl of fiery, flat rice noodles studded with tasty, tender pork (or chicken, or beef, $5.95) titled simply ``spicy noodle,'' and the house whole pomfret dish (from $8.95 to $10.95 according to size) which is cooked to delicate moistness (in this case steamed with ginger and white wine) and garnished with a spicy vegetable mixture.

Scallops come two ways ($7.95 each), both respectable versions. One has the sweet mollusks sauteed with red and green bell peppers and onion with a touch of chili pepper. The other is a garlicky recipe with straw mushrooms and onion.

Almost every Thai restaurant specializes in barbecued chicken, Takzin's version ($5.95) being a tad drier than some, even though it's marinated in coconut milk.

Duck also shows up on the menu. And it really displays verve and depth when joined with pineapple, tomato and bell pepper in a spicy and sweet red curry dish ($6.95) that will have you gulping cooling drafts of whatever your accompanying cold beverage is.

Interestingly, the small wine list here has Laboure-Roi Pouilly Fuisse by the glass ($5.75) on it. Here's a respected French white burgundy that has enough body to match the assertiveness of many of the dishes of this skillful Thai kitchen.

And just a glass of it and an order of pad thai ($4.95), the traditional Thai rice noodle mixture with chicken, egg and ground peanuts, done here as well as at any of the hundreds of Thai restaurants around town, provides a tasty light lunch or evening supper.

But for a really memorable meal, make it a party of five or more here and go for the special family-style dinner that the restaurant offers for a mere $16.95 per person. You'll feast on beef satay, vegetable egg roll, tom yum kai soup, the house Thai salad, Bangkok whole fish, shrimp fried rice, the garlicky scallops, Thai barbecued chicken, pad thai noodles, Takzin steak plus steamed rice. Coffee or hot tea is also included.

When you finish this meal, about all you can say is, ``Wow.''

The restaurant: Takzin Thai.

Where: 18594 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

When: Open for lunch (added specials) and dinner (early specials) from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, from noon to 11 p.m. Saturday, for dinner only from 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday. Closed Mondays.

Recommended items: Chicken or beef satay, honey ribs, Tarzana roll, triangle Thai, tom yum kai soup, mushroom pork, Takzin steak, scallops (with garlic and mushrooms or bell pepper and chili), whole pomfret Bangkok fish, duck curry, pad thai, spicy noodle, pineapple fried rice.

How much: Starters from $2.75 to $9, entrees from $5 to $11, desserts $1.75 each. Beer and wine. All major credit cards.

Wine list: Minimal, but better than you'd expect. The few choices are relatively low-priced with seven options by the glass from $2.95 to $5.75 and nine bottles from $9.95 to $20.95. Corkage is $5 per bottle.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three and One Half Stars for food; Three Stars for service; One and One Half Stars for wine.

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Photo

Photo: Owner Witoon Monchusap offers generous portions and reasonable prices at Takzin Thai on Ventura Boulevard.

Myung J. Chun/Daily News