TAKE COMFORT IN FAST HOMEMADE SOUP.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

YOU'D LOVE a steaming bowl of warm, fragrant soup on a chilly evening, but you scrap the idea during the week because you aren't fond of those tasteless, lifeless canned or packaged varieties. They just don't compare to homemade.

Wait a minute. You don't have to give up on from-scratch versions for weeknight dining. By changing your cooking strategy and relying on a few shortcuts (and even a few canned items), it's feasible to turn out numerous wonderful homemade soups chock-full of vegetables, tomatoes, chicken or sausage, beans, pasta, fresh basil and more fast - in half an hour, more or less, from start to finish.

Get over the notion that soups require lengthy simmering and lots of muss and fuss. Plenty of delicious homemade creations can be tossed together pronto, providing you keep your pantry, freezer and fridge stocked with time-saving ingredients.

Quick homemade soups are generally more nutritious than their canned counterparts. And if fat is a concern, use low-fat milks, fat-free broths, reduced fat cheeses.

Soups can be thick, thin, smooth, hot, cold, light or heavy. Vary them to suit individual tastes.

Keep in mind that soups are among the most forgiving of all dishes, allowing for lots of flexibility and experimentation. Use recipes as guides and feel free to substitute and throw in whatever you have handy. You're bound to come up with lots of interesting combinations once you get the soup-making knack.

Sometimes I just pull out a pot, look in the pantry, freezer and fridge, and start concocting. Once I get going, I decide on what spices I'm in the mood for and what complements the ingredients in the pot. If I have milk or a little cream in the fridge and canned or frozen corn handy, sometimes I opt for a corn chowder zipped up with green chiles and diced cooked chicken breast or ham. Other favorites include a chicken tortilla soup, a quick clam chowder, a Tuscan spinach bean soup and a tomato-based vegetable concoction with pasta or tortellini and sometimes a few canned beans tossed in.

A fast soup can consist of canned diced tomatoes, canned broth, assorted frozen vegetables, canned corn, a little salsa, ground cumin, chili powder, garlic pepper and some chipotle pepper seasoning. Once heated to boiling and then simmered a few minutes, the soup can be ladled over shredded Jack cheese in bowls for a soul-warming dinner.

Always taste the soup before serving to adjust seasonings. If necessary, toss in additional seasonings and herbs to add pizazz and kick up the flavor. Try a splash of sherry wine, balsamic or red wine vinegar, or Worcestershire sauce.

Give these speedy soups a whirl for a sunny meal and use them to inspire other variations. All you need to add is some crusty bread, half a sandwich or a small salad - and dinner's on in a jiffy.

ITALIAN MEATBALL SOUP

1 (18-ounce) package frozen fully cooked Italian-seasoned beef meatballs (about 35 meatballs)

2 cups frozen mixed vegetables

1 (14-ounce) can ready-to-serve beef broth (approximate size)

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can Italian-style diced tomatoes

1 cup water

1/3 cup uncooked ditalini OR small shell pasta

Shredded Parmesan cheese 

Combine meatballs, vegetables, broth, undrained tomatoes, water and pasta in a large saucepan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer 8 to 10 minutes or until pasta is tender. Serve sprinkled with cheese, as desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

TERIYAKI BEEF SOUP

(On the cover)

8 ounces boneless beef sirloin steak

2 teaspoons olive oil 

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

4 cups water

1 cup apple juice OR apple cider 

2 carrots, cut into thin bite-size strips

1/3 cup uncooked long-grain rice

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon instant beef bouillon granules 

2 cups small broccoli flowerets

1 to 2 tablespoons light teriyaki sauce

1 tablespoon dry sherry (optional)

Slivered green onion tops (optional)

Trim fat from meat. Cut meat into thin, bite-size strips. In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add meat and shallot. Cook and stir 2 to 3 minutes or until meat is brown. Use a slotted spoon to remove meat mixture; set aside.

In same saucepan, combine water, apple juice, carrots, rice, ginger, garlic and bouillon granules. Heat to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, about 15 minutes or until carrots are tender.

Stir in meat mixture and broccoli. Simmer, covered, 3 minutes more. Stir in teriyaki sauce and sherry. Ladle soup into bowls. Garnish with slivered green onion tops. Makes 5 servings (197 calories each).

From ``Better Homes and Gardens 3 Steps to Weight Loss.''

SPILL-THE-BEANS MINESTRONE

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans reduced-sodium chicken OR vegetable broth

1 (15 1/2-ounce) can reduced-sodium garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained

1 (15 1/4-ounce) can reduced-sodium red kidney beans, rinsed and drained

1 (14 1/2-ounce) Italian-style tomatoes

2 cups chopped kale OR Swiss chard (optional)

1/2 cup uncooked small shell-shaped pasta

1/4 teaspoon Italian seasoning

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper OR to taste

Grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat until hot. Cook and stir onion and garlic 3 to 5 minutes or until onion is translucent. Add broth, beans, undrained tomatoes, kale, pasta and seasonings; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer 10 to 12 minutes or until pasta is tender. Serve with Parmesan cheese. Makes 5 to 6 servings.

FISH AND SAUSAGE CHOWDER

2 hot OR sweet Italian sausages, casings removed

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 sweet onions (about 1 1/4 pounds), quartered and thinly sliced

1 pound Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice

3 (8-ounce) bottles clam juice

1 (4 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes with juice

2 cups water

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme OR 1 teaspoon dried leaf thyme

1 1/2 pounds firm white fish, such as cod OR haddock, boned and skinned and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/2 cup (lightly packed) chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley 

1 teaspoon salt OR to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper OR to taste

In a large soup pot, cook sausage in oil, stirring frequently to break into bite-size pieces, until sausage just begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in onions; cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes, clam juice, diced tomatoes with juice, water and thyme. Bring to a boil over high heat; then reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low; stir in fish. Cook until fish is just firm and opaque, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Makes about 10 cups.

TURKEY-TORTELLINI SOUP

8 cups turkey OR chicken stock OR broth

1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper

2 zucchini, unpeeled, quartered lengthwise and sliced

1 (9-ounce) package uncooked cheese-filled tortellini

2 to 3 cups cubed cooked turkey OR chicken

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

In a soup pot over high heat, bring stock to a boil. Add vegetables and tortellini. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until vegetables and tortellini are tender, about 7 minutes. Add turkey, parsley, salt and pepper and simmer until flavors are blended, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Makes 6 servings.

From ``The Big Book of Soups & Stews,'' by Maryana Vollstedt.

HALIBUT AND SHRIMP SOUP WITH FETA CHEESE

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onion

2 cloves garlic, quartered

1 (28-ounce) can tomatoes, coarsely chopped, with juice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup chicken broth

1 teaspoon sugar

3/4 teaspoon dried oregano 

3/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper to taste

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

3/4 pound halibut, cut into large bite-sized pieces

1/2 pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined

1 cup crumbled feta cheese

In a large saucepan over medium heat, warm oil. Add onion and garlic and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, wine, broth, sugar, oregano, salt, pepper and parsley. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes longer. Add halibut and simmer, covered, until fish almost flakes, about 5 minutes. Stir in shrimp and simmer, covered until shrimp turn pink, 4 to 5 minutes. Just before serving, stir in cheese. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``The Big Book of Soups & Stews,'' by Maryana Vollstedt.

TORTILLA SOUP

1 tablespoon canola OR vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped medium

1 large clove garlic, minced

2 teaspoons chili powder

2 quarts homemade chicken stock OR canned low-sodium chicken broth

2 tablespoons lime juice, plus 1 lime cut into wedges

1 whole boneless, skinless chicken breast (12 ounces), cut in half

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained

6 flour tortillas, cut in half and then crosswise into 1/8-inch wide strips

2 medium ripe avocados, peeled, pitted and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 1/2 cups grated mild white Cheddar OR Monterey Jack cheese 

1/2 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves

2 medium jalapeno chiles, halved lengthwise, seeded and sliced thin

Heat oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and chili powder and cook until aromatic, about 15 seconds.

Add chicken stock, increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and add 2 tablespoons lime juice and chicken. Partially cover and gently simmer until chicken is no longer pink, about 15 minutes.

Use a slotted spoon to remove chicken from stock; cool slightly. Add tomatoes to stock and cook over medium heat until stock is very hot, about 5 minutes. With your hands, shred chicken into bite-sized pieces.

To serve, divide shredded chicken, sliced tortillas and diced avocado into bottom of each of 6 bowls and ladle hot stock on top. Top each bowl with 1 to 2 tablespoons cheese and a generous sprinkling of cilantro leaves. Place chiles, remaining cheese and lime wedges on table for adding to individual bowls as desired. Makes 6 servings.

From ``The Best Recipe Soups & Stews,'' by The Editors of Cook's Illustrated.

CHEDDAR CHEESE SOUP

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium onion, minced

1 small shallot, minced

1 medium carrot, minced

1 small stalk celery, minced

1 medium clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 1/2 cups homemade chicken stock OR canned low-sodium chicken broth

2 1/2 cups half-and-half

1 bay leaf

Pinch cayenne pepper

3 tablespoons dry sherry

3 cups shredded sharp white Cheddar cheese

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves

Salt and ground black pepper

Heat butter in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat until foaming. Add onion and shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add carrot, celery and garlic and cook until garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add flour and cook, stirring to coat vegetables, until mixture begins to brown on bottom of pot, about 2 minutes.

Gradually whisk in chicken stock and half-and-half. Add bay leaf and increase heat to medium-high. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until vegetables soften, about 3 minutes.

Remove pot from heat. Stir in cayenne and sherry and allow to cool slightly, about 2 minutes. Slowly whisk in cheese and thyme until cheese melts. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``The Best Recipe Soups & Stews,'' by The Editors of Cook's Illustrated.

THAI CHICKEN AND COCONUT SOUP

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 to 2 stalks lemon grass, outer sheath removed, bottom 3 inches trimmed and minced (3 tablespoons) OR 1 teaspoon lemon peel

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 large clove garlic, minced

2 to 3 teaspoons Thai red curry paste

6 cups homemade chicken stock OR canned low-sodium chicken broth

3 tablespoons fish sauce OR soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

2 (14-ounce) cans unsweetened coconut milk

1 whole boneless, skinless chicken breast (about 12 ounces), cut into 1X1/4-inch strips

1 (15-ounce) can straw mushrooms, drained and rinsed

3 tablespoons lime juice

Salt

1/2 cup loosely packed whole fresh cilantro leaves

3 green onions, green only, sliced thin on an angle (optional)

Heat oil in a large stockpot OR Dutch oven over medium heat. Add lemon grass, ginger and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until aromatic, 30 to 60 seconds. Add curry paste and cook, stirring constantly 30 seconds.

Add 1/2 cup chicken stock to pot and stir to dissolve curry paste. Add remaining stock, fish sauce and sugar and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low, partially cover, and simmer to blend flavors, about 20 minutes.

Stir in coconut milk, chicken, mushrooms and lime juice. Bring back to a simmer and cook until stock is hot and chicken is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add salt if desired. Serve immediately, garnishing each bowl with cilantro and green onions. Makes 6 servings.

THAI SHRIMP AND COCONUT SOUP: Substitute 3/4 pound peeled and deveined medium shrimp for chicken.

From ``The Best Recipe Soups & Stews,'' by The Editors of Cook's Illustrated.

ASIAN CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans chicken broth

1 cup water

3/4 cup dried fine egg noodles 

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 medium red sweet pepper, cut into 3/4-inch pieces

1 medium carrot, chopped

1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions

1 cup chopped cooked chicken OR turkey (5 ounces)

1 cup fresh pea pods, halved crosswise OR 1/2 of a 6-ounce package frozen pea pods, thawed and halved crosswise

In a large saucepan combine chicken broth, water, noodles, soy sauce, ginger and crushed red pepper. Heat to boiling. Stir in sweet pepper, carrot and green onions. Return to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, 4 to 6 minutes OR until vegetables are crisp-tender and noodles are tender.

Stir in chicken and pea pods. Simmer, uncovered, 1 to 2 minutes more or until pea pods are crisp-tender. Makes 3 servings.

From ``Better Homes and Gardens Dinner Time Express.''

TEX-MEX MINESTRONE SOUP

1 (16-ounce) package frozen garlic-seasoned pasta and vegetables OR vegetables

1 (16-ounce) jar thick and chunky salsa (2 cups)

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed and drained

1 (2 1/4-ounce) can sliced ripe olives, drained

2 cups water

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

Sour cream (optional)

Mix all ingredients except cheese and sour cream in a Dutch oven OR 4-quart saucepan. Heat to boiling; reduce heat to low. Simmer uncovered 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender. Top each serving with cheese and sour cream. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

NOTE: Stir in 1 1/2 cups diced cooked chicken breast, if desired, before serving.

From ``Betty Crocker's Cook It Quick, Homemade Made Easy in 30 Minutes or Less.''

QUICK CREAM OF BROCCOLI SOUP

1 tablespoon butter OR margarine

1 medium onion, chopped

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped broccoli

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can chicken broth

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

Pinch ground nutmeg

Pinch ground red pepper (cayenne)

1 1/2 cups milk

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

In a 3-quart saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add frozen broccoli, broth, thyme, salt, pepper, nutmeg and ground red pepper; heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes.

Spoon 1/2 of mixture into blender; cover, with center part of cover removed to let steam escape, and puree until smooth. Pour into bowl. Repeat with remaining mixture.

Return puree to saucepan; stir in milk. Heat through, stirring often (do not boil). Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Makes about 3 3/4 cups OR 3 servings.

QUICK CREAM OF PEA SOUP: Prepare as directed but substitute 1 (10-ounce) package frozen peas for broccoli; add 1/4 teaspoon dried mint leaves with broth.

QUICK CREAM OF ASPARAGUS SOUP: Prepare as directed but substitute 1 (10-ounce) package frozen asparagus for broccoli; add 1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon with broth.

QUICK CREAM OF CORN SOUP: Prepare as directed but substitute 1 (10-ounce) package frozen whole kernel corn for broccoli; add 3/4 teaspoon chili powder after cooking onion and cook 30 seconds before adding broth.

From ``The All New Good Housekeeping Cook Book,'' Edited by Susan Westmoreland.

INGREDIENTS

Keep your pantry, fridge and freezer stocked with some of the following time-saving ingredients so you can whip up delicious from-scratch soups on the spur-of-the-moment.

Canned diced tomatoes and tomato paste

Canned chicken, beef and vegetable broths

Assorted canned beans

Small dried pastas and noodles

Rice

Potatoes

Canned diced green chiles

Assorted frozen vegetables and combinations

Frozen or minced dried onions

Garlic

Milk and whipping cream

Canned clams

Smoked cooked sausages; bacon

Frozen cooked chicken breasts; frozen shrimp, halibut or salmon

Assorted spices and sauces like salsas, Worcestershire sauce and soy sauce

Assorted cheeses

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

3 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Teriyaki Beef Soup

(2 -- 3 -- color) Soy sauce, ginger and pea pods add Asian flair the the classic version of chicken noodle soup, left. Meatball Soup, above, goes together in a jiffy when you use frozen meatballs.

``From Better Homes and Gardens Dinnertime Express''

Box:

INGREDIENTS (see text)