TAKE A Q FROM THE GRILLE.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic After enjoying a successful five years on the Westside, Outdoor Grill chose Northridge to launch a second barbecue eatery. It's one of those quick-service, no-frills places where you place your order at the counter, pay the bill and get a receipt with a number on it. When the number is called out, you go to the counter and pick up your tray. A colorful western campfire mural decorates the wall above another counter holding help-yourself plastic knives, forks, spoons, paper napkins, barbecue sauce and soft drink dispensers. With both inside and outside seating, Outdoor Grill can handle a fair number of dine-in patrons, but obviously is set up for a potentially greater percentage of takeout business. Perhaps that's why its good-tasting side of mashed potatoes n. pl. 1. Potatoes which have been boiled and mashed to a pulpy consistency, usu. with sparing addition of milk, salt, butter, or other flavoring. It is a popular accompaniment to a meat course [U.S., 1900's], providing bulk and calories to a meal. , served in the restaurant as an optional side dish side dish n. A dish served as an accompaniment to the main course. Noun 1. side dish - a dish that is served with, but is subordinate to, a main course entremets, side order , isn't listed on the takeout menu. You see, the mashers tend to come up lukewarm moments after being spooned onto your black plastic plate for on-premises consumption. Consequently, one would think that if they were ordered to be taken home, they would certainly need reheating Reheating The addition of heat to steam of reduced pressure after the steam has given up some of its energy by expansion through the high-pressure stages of a turbine. . But both the house soups and chili are served up steaming hot. And they're excellent efforts. The chili (cup $2.50, bowl $4.50), made with ground turkey, offers welcome spicy heat and a tasty, well-seasoned, tomatoey mixture with beans. Soups (cup $2.25, bowl $3.50) have been an expressive creamy mushroom recipe redolent red·o·lent adj. 1. Having or emitting fragrance; aromatic. 2. Suggestive; reminiscent: a campaign redolent of machine politics. with fresh mushrooms and a hearty Italian soup packed with savory vegetables. Though the babybacks (half-rack $9.95, full rack $18.75) and beef ribs (three for $5.95) display requisite meatiness and smoky flavors, the best dish of those tried at Outdoor Grill is, hands down, the barbecued catfish ($8.25 with two sides). Moist, soft and delicious, the filet of catfish shows up topped with a mixture denoting shavings of garlic, basil, green onion and a sprinkling of finely diced, skinned and seeded tomatoes. It's a winner. Not far behind, the Outdoor Grill's chicken comes by itself (quarter $2.95, half $5.25, whole $9.75) or combined with ribs ($8.95) or tri-tip ($6.95). Marinated and masterfully cooked to achieve a crisp and flavorful skin covering the bird's tender, moist flesh beneath, the chicken here is as good as barbecued chicken gets. It certainly tops the tri-tip ($5.25 by itself, $6.95 with chicken, $8.95 with ribs), which, though marinated and of basic good taste, reveals occasional tough slices, a common happenstance hap·pen·stance n. A chance circumstance: "Marriage loomed only as an outgrowth of happenstance; you met a person" Bruce Weber. with tri-tip. As for salads and sides, the kitchen here fashions a nifty cut romaine salad scattered with feta fet·a n. A white semisoft cheese usually made of goat's or ewe's milk and often preserved in brine. [Modern Greek (turi) pheta, (cheese) slice, from Italian fetta, slice cheese bits, avocado and tomato ($6.50) and big enough to share, along with respectable renditions of corn bread corn bread or corn·bread n. Bread made from cornmeal. (nice and fluffy), macaroni macaroni: see pasta. and cheese (made with orrechiette, the small ear-shaped pasta), baked beans baked beans Noun, pl haricot beans, baked and tinned in tomato sauce baked beans npl → judías fpl en salsa de tomate baked beans bake npl , coleslaw cole·slaw also cole slaw n. A salad of finely shredded raw cabbage and sometimes shredded carrots, dressed with mayonnaise or a vinaigrette. , fries, steamed veggies Veggies of Nottingham, also known as Veggies Catering Campaign, is a campaigning group based in Nottingham, England, promoting ethicalbum alternatives to mainstream fast food. and rice. Outdoor Grill doesn't lack options for snackers (fries with chili, $2.95), dieters (boneless Bone´less a. 1. Without bones. Adj. 1. boneless - being without a bone or bones; "jellyfish are boneless" chicken breast, $4.25) and fish fanciers (fish of the day and a salmon entree). But wine and beer drinkers (no license yet) and the sweet-toothed (no desserts yet) will have to wait. OUTDOOR GRILL Where: 18697 Devonshire St., Northridge. When: Open for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Recommended items: Soups, turkey chili, feta romaine salad, catfish, barbecued chicken, babyback pork ribs, beef ribs, corn bread, macaroni and cheese. Children's menu: For children under 12. Macaroni and cheese and drink ($1.95), half sandwich with fries and drink ($4.25), ribs with fries and drink ($4.95). How much: Starters and sides from 75 cents to $4.50, entrees with two sides from $4.75 to $19.75. No alcohol. AE, MC, V. Wine list: No wine license currently. Application approval pending. Reservations: Not taken. Information and takeout orders: (818) 363-6500. Our rating: Three stars for food. CAPTION(S): 2 photos Photo: (1) Outdoor Grille co-owner Jeff Paul, left, chef Nacho Hernandez and co-owner Neil Paul present some barbecue dishes. (2) The marinated tri-tip sandwich with plenty of steamed vegetables will appease hungry diners. Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer |
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