TAILGATE TOUCHDOWN SERVE A FEAST THAT WILL CREATE END ZONE ENVY.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

If you're a devotee of tailgating, you know the drill. Arrive at the stadium or nearby parking lot at the crack of dawn on game day for a choice space to set up a field kitchen and dining room. Then start cooking and having a good time.

``Tailgating (which became popular in the '50s) is growing at an incredible rate,'' says Joe Cahn, ``Commissioner of Tailgating,'' who had the title bestowed on him by the National Football League in 1997. He estimates that nearly 50 percent of those attending a big game participate in tailgating.

Corporate America is picking up on the trend, with more television commercials for portable foods geared to tailgaters. And this year, Campbell's Chunky Chili is offering 34 tailgating trading cards, picturing tailgating groups from 32 NFL cities, plus a card each for Cahn and his cat, Sophie. (Cards are available only in stadium parking lots at game time.)

Cahn and his cat will be visiting 47 stadiums this football season, attending three or four tailgating parties weekly - and traveling 35,000 miles in his 40-foot luxury motorcoach.

But it can't compare with the personalized tailgating rig of the Bautista brothers of South Central L.A., who are famous for their spirited parties at the USC games. Alvaro Bautista, 33, and his two brothers, Alfredo, 31, and Angel, 22, are all USC graduates and big football fans.

Two seasons ago, Alvaro bought a '57 Chevy station wagon, modified it into an El Camino, painted it burgundy and outfitted it with a grill and entire set-up for grilling food near the Coliseum on USC home game days.

``It was a rust bucket when we bought it,'' he says, noting that he originally bought it with the intention of restoring it and making it a show car. But a Discovery Channel show on the best tailgates in the country changed his mind. Nothing West of the Mississippi was included in the show.

``We thought we should do something that deserved attention. So we cut the car up and rebuilt it to be functional for tailgating and put all custom equipment in back.''

With only a working front driver's seat, it's outfitted with a beer keg, an electric deep fryer, a custom propane gas grill (that can cook 25 burgers at a time), a griddle, steam table and custom platform for serving from the car.

Now Alvaro, a former Huntington Park restaurant owner, brings along a friend to do the short-order cooking honors - turning out burgers, french fries, kabobs. Guests can also make their own soft tacos with all the fixings.

``We serve between 80 and 100 people,'' among them family, friends and business associates,'' Alvaro says.

The car has garnered lots of attention, he says, adding that Cahn discovered it at one of last year's games, and it was featured in a ``Best Tailgate in the Nation'' article in a September issue of Sports illustrated.

``The Bautista brothers' car is one of the best tailgating vehicles in the country,'' says Cahn, adding that he's seen lots of tailgate vehicles - ambulances, fire trucks, Army transport trucks, a hearse.

Although ``tailgating is a lot of work,'' says Alfredo, ``at the end of the day, it is a rewarding experience.''

But you don't have to love football like the Bautistas do to tailgate.

``Tailgating is not just synonymous with NFL and college football anymore,'' points out Cahn, adding that folks tailgate at NASCAR races, baseball games, Jimmy Buffet concerts and many other events.

``While the food is an essential part of the tailgate experience, no one should be so distracted by the cooking that they can't enjoy themselves,'' says Bob Sloan, author of the new ``The Tailgating Cookbook (Chronicle Books; $15.95), his fifth cookbook. ``Tailgate parties come in every size and shape, serving every kind of food and drink.''

But what people eat depends on the region and the season, points out Stephen Linn of Nashville, Tenn., author of the recently released ``The Ultimate Tailgater's Handbook'' (Rutledge Hill Press; $14.99).

``Texas brisket, beef dishes and pork ribs are served throughout the South; brats up north, fish along the shore - and burgers, steaks and chicken are universal,'' says Linn. Some take desserts seriously, but cookies and brownies are easiest to serve and eat.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

TACOS AL PASTOR 

10 dried pasilla chiles, seeds and stems removed

10 fresh guajillo chiles, seeds and stems removed

5 cloves garlic

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 

1 cup white vinegar

2 pounds pork shoulder meat, sliced and diced

Cooking oil

1 onion, chopped

Combine chiles, garlic, cumin and vinegar in a blender. Puree until smooth. Marinate pork, refrigerated, in pureed sauce mixture, at least 2 hours.

Heat a very small amount of oil in a large skillet. Add 1/2 of pork and cook, stirring, until almost done. Add 1/2 of chopped onions and cook until meat is done. Repeat with remaining pork and onions. Serve in warm corn tortillas with salsa (homemade or store-bought), chopped onions and chopped cilantro. Tastes best with a Mexican beer on the side. Makes 6 servings.

Shared by Alvaro Bautista.

MEXICAN SALSA

3 medium tomatoes, chopped

2 bunches cilantro, finely chopped

1 large onion, finely chopped

3 to 6 fresh jalapeno chiles, finely chopped

2 limes 

1 orange

Mix tomatoes, cilantro, onions and chiles together and let stand 1 hour. Squeeze limes and orange over mixture, mix well. Serve as a dip with chips or on soft tacos.

NOTE: To add additional spice, mix in a few pickled jalapeno peppers and vinegar from a can of jalapenos.

Shared by Alvaro Bautista.

SIRLOIN STEAK KABOBS

3 pounds beef sirloin steak, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

Red bell peppers, seeded and cut into squares

Yellow bell peppers, seeded and cut into squares

Onions, cut into squares

Tomatoes, seeds removed and cut into wedges

Worcestershire sauce

Seasoned salt 

On skewers, alternate steak, peppers, onions and tomatoes. Sprinkle kabobs with Worcestershire sauce and seasoned salt and let stand at least 1 hour.

Place on a hot grill and cook to desired degree of doneness, rotating only 4 times (once per side). Makes 10 to 12 kabobs.

Shared by Alvaro Bautista.

PIGSKIN MEXICAN DIP

Romaine lettuce leaves OR green kale for serving

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese, plus a 2-ounce piece cut into 4x1/2-inch strips for serving

1 cup refried beans 

1 (4-ounce) can diced green chiles, drained

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

Tortilla chips for serving

At home, line a platter with lettuce or kale leaves.

In a medium bowl, mix together cream cheese, 2 cups Cheddar cheese, refried beans, chiles, chili powder, cumin and salt until well combined. Place mixture in center of platter. Shape it into something resembling a football. Smooth with a rubber spatula.

Arrange strips of cheese along top to make laces. Transfer carefully to a large sealable container or a cardboard box and refrigerate until you are ready to pack, up to 8 hours. At the tailgate, serve dip with chips and a whistle. Makes 12 servings.

From ``The Tailgating Cookbook: Recipes for the Big Game,'' by Bob Sloan.

MEDITERRANEAN-STYLE POTATO SALAD

3 pounds small red potatoes, cut in half

1 small bulb fennel, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 (4-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, drained and coarsely chopped

4 ounces oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained, with oil reserved

1 medium red onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil OR 2 teaspoons dried basil

About 1/4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Salt and ground black pepper

At home, in a large saucepan, bring potatoes to a boil in enough cold water to cover them by 1 inch. Reduce heat to low and simmer until potatoes are just cooked through, about 16 to 18 minutes. (remember, they'll continue cooking a bit longer after you remove them from the pot.) Drain well in a colander, transfer to a large sealable container and let cool about 20 minutes, gently turning potatoes with a rubber spatula to allow the bottom ones to cool as well.

Add fennel, red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, onion, parsley and basil. Seal container and refrigerate up to 4 hours.

Combine reserved oil from the tomatoes with enough olive oil to make 1/4 cup. In a small, sealable container, whisk together oil, vinegar, mustard and salt and pepper to taste.

At the tailgate, pour dressing over potato mixture, gently toss together and serve. Makes 6 servings.

From ``The Tailgating Cookbook: Recipes for the Big Game,'' by Bob Sloan.

SURPRISE CHILI

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 pound lean ground beef

1 1/2 cups chopped onions

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

1 (14.4-ounce) can sauerkraut

1 (15-ounce) can pinto beans, rinsed and drained

1 (14-ounce) can beef broth

3 to 4 tablespoons chili powder

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add ground beef, onions and garlic. Cook until browned. Drain off excess fat. Stir in tomatoes, sauerkraut, pinto beans, beef broth, chili powder and pepper; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, partially covered, 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``The Ultimate Tailgater's Handbook,'' edited by Stephen Linn.

CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES

12 ounces bittersweet chocolate

2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup packed brown sugar

2 eggs

1 tablespoon vanilla

Break chocolate into 1/2-inch chunks and set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt. In a large bowl, beat butter with both sugars until smooth and creamy. Beat in eggs, one at a time, until smooth, along with vanilla. Beat in flour mixture until blended. Stir in chocolate chunks. Spoon about 1 tablespoon dough for each cookie onto an ungreased cookie sheet, placing about 1 1/2 inches apart. Bake in a preheated 375-degree oven 7 to 8 minutes.

Transfer cookies to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. Store in a sealable container until ready to serve. Makes 3 dozen cookies.

From ``The Tailgating Cookbook: Recipes for the Big Game,'' by Bob Sloan.

GAME PLAN

If you're new to the game, here are a few tailgating tips from the experts.

Keep it simple. ``The more time you have to spend with your friends, the better the party,'' says Joe Cahn.

Make and use a checklist. Include food, forks, plates, paper towels, ice, drinks, trash bags and other items you'll need. Remember, ``You're not at home, so packing is critical,'' says Bob Sloan. Pack all the equipment, utensils and serving dishes the night before.

Be creative. ``Choose a menu you feel comfortable with, a combination of do-ahead dishes and others that require only simple grilling,'' says Sloan.

Wear - and decorate with - your team colors. ``Show who you're for - and become part of the community,'' says Cahn.

Play it safe. Don't forget to take a small fire extinguisher, a first aid kit and a roll of toilet paper.

Prepare before you leave home. All cutting and dicing as well as cooking chiles, ribs, chicken (reheat or put on the grill at the site) can be done ahead. For ease, serve buffet style and let fans help themselves. Welcome guests' food contributions to ease cooking chores and the food budget.

Food safety is vital. Be sure to keep cold foods cold and hot foods hot. Take separate ice chests or coolers for drinks and ice and pack other cold and uncooked foods with frozen ice packs. Keep in mind that hot foods should be consumed or chilled within two hours for safety's sake.

Bring your own creature comforts. Bean bag, lawn and plastic chairs, a table, tablecloths, canopies, pop-up tents, sunscreen, recreational gear, satellite dish and plasma or big-screen televisions make the experience more enjoyable. Keep in mind that some folks will stay at the tailgate site the entire time, while others will attend the game (in the stadium) and return at halftime for more food and drink.

Keep things clean. Pick up as you go, and have guests toss items in trash bags provided. Allow time to clean up before leaving the site. Put trash in heavy-duty bags and leave for pick up. If using charcoal, bring an extra foil roaster pan, dump the used charcoal in the pan and cover with water to prevent a fire, suggests Cahn.

Make friends. Offer to share a drink or recipes and food. Enjoy the experience.

Don't drive after drinking. Assign designated drivers in advance of the game.

For more information, go to www.tailgating.com or www.the ultimatetailgater.com.

CAPTION(S):

7 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) On the cover: USC graduate and football fan Alvaro Bautista cooks kabobs on the back of his converted '57 Chevy to serve friends at his parking-lot tailgate party.

(2 -- color) Top: On a recent USC game day, tailgaters serve themselves at the Bautista brothers' party in a parking lot near the Coliseum.

(3 -- 6 -- color) Alvaro Bautista (in USC hat, top left) and his brothers, Alfredo and Angel, gather pals for a pregame feast of kabobs, burgers, hot sausage links, soft tacos and fries. The back of their converted '57 Chevy has been outfitted with a grill and other cooking equipment, turning it into the ultimate tailgate kitchen.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer

(7 -- color) Above: Alfredo Bautista, left, Joe Cahn and Alvaro Bautista enjoy tailgating fare and camaraderie.

Dylan Sanchez

Box:

GAME PLAN (see text)