Symbols of the spirit.

Byline: JIM BOYD The Register-Guard

PASSOVER, which commemorates the exodus of the Jewish people from Egypt, begins at sundown today. The holiday begins with a meal that brings family and friends together to discuss and teach children the meaning of Passover, to eat festive food and to join in song.

Spring house cleaning designed to rid Jewish homes of foods containing "hametz" (yeasty leavening) is now completed. In some Jewish households, parents had their children hunt Tuesday night for carefully wrapped pieces of hidden hametz, to be ceremonially burned this morning.

For eight days (seven in Israel), observant Jews will eat unleavened bread called "matzah" and abstain from foods that might contain even the tiniest amount of leaven. The prohibition includes liquors and vinegars made from grain.

Matzah is the contemporary equivalent of the hastily baked, unleavened bread that Jewish ancestors ate with lamb and bitter herbs on the eve of their flight from Egypt some 3,200 years ago.

The brittle sheets of matzah are baked from flour and water in a process that must take no more than 18 minutes from start to finish, to guarantee that the dough does not ferment and begin to rise.

"Matzo," as in matzo ball soup, is the spelling given in American English dictionaries for this unleavened bread. It's the spelling you will see on boxes of these sheets on grocery store shelves.

However, "matzah" - the spelling we use here - seems preferred by Jewish writers and is recommended by Rabbi Yitzhak Husbands-Hankin of Eugene's Temple Beth Israel because it's a better transliteration for the correct pronunciation of the Hebrew word.

Instructions for conducting a Passover Seder (pronounced SAY-dur), the ceremonial meal on the first and, outside Israel, on the second nights of Passover, are contained in a document called the Haggadah. There are more than 3,000 known versions. Seder means "order," and the Haggadah provides the correct sequence for retelling the Exodus story.

"A reading of the Haggadah - a narration of the Exodus - is a central part of the first (and second) nights of Passover and takes place in homes," cookbook author Joan Nathan says in "Jewish Cooking in America."

"The observance was originally a nature festival celebrated by nomadic desert Jews, with a roasted sheep or goat as the central food.

"Centuries later, the peasants of Israel had a spring grain observance, the Festival of Unleavened Bread, where the unleavened matzah was served.

"After the Exodus, the seasonal aspect of the festival was transformed into a freedom holiday representing more closely the history and social and spiritual strivings of the Jewish people," Nathan says.

"When the Temple in Jerusalem was destroyed in 70 C.E., the celebration moved from the Temple to the home Seder. Foods that had been used in the Temple like roasted lamb became the symbolic objects on the Seder plate to illustrate the story, the telling of which is even more important than the food."

The table will be set tonight in a festive manner, with candles. In front of the leader, three sheets of matzah will be wrapped in a napkin or special cloth and a Seder plate will display the symbolic foods.

The table also will be set with wine glasses (including an extra one for the prophet Elijah, who is expected to return to announce the coming of the messiah), bowls of salt water symbolizing tears shed in slavery and used to dip greens, and serving plates containing more of the ceremonial foods.

Five items are essential for the ceremonial Seder plate:

"Zeroa," a roasted bone or, for vegetarians, a roasted beet, recalls the sacrificial lambs whose blood marked Jewish homes so the Angel of Death would kill only the first-born of Egypt on Passover.

"Karpas," a vegetable, usually a green one such as parsley, celery or chervil, symbolizes spring growth and represents hope and renewal.

"Haroset" - a mixture of chopped nuts, fruit, wine and spices - represents the mortar the Jews used as slaves doing the pharaoh's labor.

"Beitzah" - a roasted (or boiled) egg - symbolizes offerings that were made at the temple in Jerusalem and the triumph of life over death.

"Maror," either horseradish or Romaine lettuce, is a bitter herb that brings to mind the bitterness of slavery in Egypt.

Some Seder plates indicate a place for "Hazaret," more bitter herbs for the "Hillel sandwich" (bitter herb between two pieces of matzah), eaten in memory of Hillel, a prominent Jewish spiritual leader at the time of Christ.

When the ritual ends, the Seder plate is removed and the actual meal of brisket of beef, roasted turkey or other family favorite is served.

The Passover celebration is layered with symbolism, and it continues to evolve. For example, Nathan tells in her cookbook of the Seder the late justice Arthur Goldberg and his wife, Dorothy, would hold for 40 people each year.

"Mrs. Goldberg would prepare a freedom Haggadah and everyone sang labor songs," Nathan says.

The orange that will be included Thursday with the other ceremonial foods on the Seder plate at Temple Beth Israel's second-night Seder is another example of tradition being molded by current events.

The orange is a modern response to a comment a conservative rabbi once made about women becoming rabbis: "A woman belongs on the bimah (the area from which the service is conducted) like an orange belongs on a Seder plate."

Tradition will play a big part in the meals served in Jewish households tonight and for the next week.

"I have one recipe, actually, for something that nobody's going to make," said Joan Bayliss, a former pastoral assistant at Temple Beth Israel. "I'm the only person crazy enough to make it. It's my great-grandmother's great-grandmother's Passover beet marmalade.

"Because if you live in northern Europe and it's March and you want to make jam for Passover, what are you going to make it with? There's no fruit. You make it with beets."

The following is Bayliss' recipe and three others that are kosher for Passover, but that non-Jews may find to their liking as well.

Eingemachts(Beet Marmalade)

Joan Bayliss of Eugene says this beet marmalade is normally eaten on a piece of matzah or used as a condiment. Of Northern European origin, the recipe has been passed down for generations in her family.

3 cans (each approximately 16 ounces) julienne beets

2 pounds sugar

2 lemons, sliced very thin

1 tablespoon grated ginger

3/4 pound pecans

Drain the juice into a pot. Add sugar. Heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add beets and sliced lemons. Cover and cook for 2 hours, stirring every half hour.

After 2 hours, uncover the pot and add the ginger. Cook for about 1 additional hour or until the marmalade coats a spoon.

"Aunt Eve (who gave the recipe to Bayliss) has underlined here, `Watch pot!' ' Bayliss said. "So I basically spend a lot of time stirring during the last hour."

After the marmalade has achieved a jam-like consistency, allow it to cool.

The next day, when the marmalade is totally cool, toast the pecans and add them to the preserve.

Makes 1 1/2 quarts.

Onion-Crusted Light Potato Kugel 

This pudding-like kugel of potatoes and onions is the perfect side dish for a festive buffet. The recipe is from Jayne Cohen's cookbook "The Gefilte Variations: 200 Inspired Re-creations of Classics from the Jewish Kitchen, with Menus, Stories, and Traditions for the Holidays and Year-Round."

1 1/2 pounds onions, very thinly sliced (6 cups)

Salt

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus additional for drizzling (use the finest-quality extra-virgin oil for drizzling)

1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic

Freshly ground black pepper

6 large or 8 medium russet (baking) potatoes, peeled

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon baking powder (for Passover, observant Jews use Passover kosher baking powder, guaranteed to contain no cornstarch)

1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary (according to taste)

Separate the onions into rings. To extract moisture, toss in large bowl with 2 teaspoons salt and set aside for about 20 minutes. Turn the onions around from time to time.

Dry the onions between sheets of paper towels or cotton kitchen towels, pressing down to soak up as much of the exuded liquid as you can.

In a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet, heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, lifting and tossing with a spatula as they soften and become golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. The mixture should be well salted and peppery, so season to taste accordingly. Set aside to cool.

Dice 2 (if large) or 3 (if medium) of the potatoes and place in a saucepan of salted water. Bring to a boil, then simmer until the potatoes are tender.

Mash the potatoes, using a ricer, food mill or masher, until smooth, and place in a large bowl. Stir in about half of the fried onions, setting the rest aside.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Grate the remaining potatoes in a food processor or over the large holes of a hand grater. Place the grated potatoes in a colander or large strainer and rinse well under cold water to remove most of the starch. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible, then add them to the mashed potatoes. Beat the eggs in another bowl until thick and light. Whisk in the baking powder. Combine the eggs with the potatoes and season generously with salt and pepper.

Pour 3 tablespoons oil into a large, shallow, heavy baking pan (9-by-13-inch or similar size, preferably enameled cast iron or metal, not glass). Thoroughly rub oil around the bottom and sides of the pan and place in the oven until sizzling hot. Transfer the potatoes to the pan and spread with a spatula; top with the remaining fried onions. Sprinkle with the rosemary. Drizzle everything with a few drops of oil. If you live salty crusts, you may want to sprinkle a bit more coarse salt and some pepper over the top.

Bake for about 30 minutes on the uppermost shelf of the oven, then turn the temperature down to 350 degrees. Continue baking for 25 to 40 minutes longer, or until the kugel is firm, the top is golden and the onions are crispy.

Let the kugel cool until set. If necessary, reheat before serving.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings.

My Trademark, Most Requested, Absolutely Magnificent Caramel Matzah Crunch

Marcy Goldman, author of "A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking," adapted a Farm Journal cookbook recipe that used soda crackers (which observant Jews can't eat during Passover) into a Seder treat made with unsalted matzahs.

4 to 6 unsalted matzahs

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter or unsalted Passover margarine

1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

3/4 cup chocolate chips or coarsely chopped semi-sweet chocolate

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a large (or 2 smaller) cookie sheet completely with foil. Cover the bottom of the sheet with baking parchment - on top of the foil. This is very important since the mixture becomes sticky during baking.

Line the bottom of the cookie sheet evenly with the matzahs, cutting extra pieces, as required, to fit any spaces.

In a 3-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the butter or margarine and the brown sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil (about 2 to 4 minutes). Boil for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and pour over the matzah, covering completely.

Place the baking sheet in the oven and immediately reduce the heat to 350 degrees.

Bake for 15 minutes, checking every few minutes to make sure the mixture is not burning (if it seems to be browning too quickly, remove the pan from the oven, lower the heat to 325 degrees, and replace the pan).

Remove from the oven and sprinkle immediately with the chopped chocolate or chips. Let stand for 5 minutes, then spread the melted chocolate over the matzah. While still warm, break into squares or odd shapes. Chill, still in the pan, in the freezer until set.

Variation: You can also use coarsely chopped white chocolate (or a combination of white and dark), and chopped or slivered toasted almonds (sprinkled on top as the chocolate sets). You can also omit chocolate for a caramel-alone buttercrunch.

Salata de Verdura (Romaine Lettuce and Arugula Salad, Andalusian Style)

Sephardic Jews have a tradition of serving a salad of lettuces that qualify as "bitter herbs" during the Seder meal, Rabbi Robert Sternberg says in "The Sephardic Kitchen: The Healthful Food and Rich Culture of the Mediterranean Jews." In this recipe, he says in a headnote, "The delicate, sweet flavor of the orange juice, honey and dill marry well with the peppery arugula leaves and the subtly bitter romaine."

1 large head romaine lettuce, washed, dried and torn into small pieces (approximately 8 1/2 to 9 cups)

1 small bunch arugula or watercress, washed, dried and torn into small pieces (1 1/2 to 2 cups, tightly packed)

1/4 cup snipped fresh chives 

1/3 cup chopped fresh dill leaves

1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest

1 tablespoon honey (preferably citrus flower honey)

1/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put torn lettuce into a large mixing bowl. Add the arugula, chives and dill.

Place the orange zest and honey in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add the orange juice and lemon juice. Stir well until the honey is dissolved.

Add the olive oil and salt (to taste) to the jar, cover tightly, and shake well to combine. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss.

Add black pepper (to taste) and toss again. Serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8.

Features reporter Jim Boyd can be reached by phone at 338-2363 and by e-mail at [e-mail].

CAPTION(S):

Displayed on a plate made by local ceramicist Lotte Streisinger are five symbols of the Seder: "karpas," a green vegetable such as parsley; "beitzah," a boiled egg; "zeroa," a roasted bone; "maror," horseradish; and "haroset," a mixture of chopped nuts, fruit, wine and spices.