Style matters: Mexican execs follow strict code of dress and etiquette.

One of the keys to survival in the Mexican corporate jungle is having a firm understanding of its complex and unspoken social and sartorial rules. These also provide some insight into the psyche of the nation's administrative classes.

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Most corporations in Mexico enforce conservative formal dress codes. Dark suits, white shirts and black shoes are the norm, even in more menial jobs. Humorous ties and short skirts are frowned upon. Some companies even have uniforms for their clerical staff. The dress-down revolution, which swept the United States and Western Europe during the Internet boom of the 1990s, making the more laid-back look acceptable in the office, seems to have brushed past Mexico. With the exception of advertising and media professionals whose attire is expected to reflect the creativity of their work, the majority of Mexican bureaucrats troop to work in the regulation two-piece suits. Casual Fridays are rare.

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Rigid dress policies offer several advantages. They promote a sense of corporate identity and unity, project an image of efficiency and reliability to the outside world, and, to a limited extent, help remove social differences by enforcing uniformity.

NON-VERBAL COMMUNICATION

Yet there is also an informal dress code. Many Mexican executives go to great lengths to display their prowess through established and unspoken visual criteria. Hair is greased back, more than one mobile phone or beeper is clipped to a belt, watches need to look expensive, pens should be pricey Mont Blanc and white cotton shirts embroidered with the wearer's initials are common.

Behind such slick elan lurk some murky motives. Such a style is designed to foster an image of virtue and capability. One may work in a corrupt, inept and inefficient government department, yet a smart suit, a Hermes tie and a pair of gold cufflinks provide a guise of respectability and importance.

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However, such flashiness is also used to subtly illustrate social superiority. Mexico is a nation whose inhabitants' social status is governed almost entirely by their wealth, and often people are either very affluent or very poor. In terms of fashion, these groups are represented by two clans--the fresas, who consider themselves to be part of the wealthy elite and the nacos who, to the fresas, represent the vulgar and impoverished masses. Of course, urbane office workers will go to lengths to be perceived as a member of the former. "[Dress] is how we work out who is rich and who is poor in society," said Victor Gordoa, a Mexican public image consultant.

"In our company, if you want to go places, you really need to look sharp," said a 24-year-old Mexico City banker who spoke to BUSINESS MEXICO on condition of anonymity. "I spend almost a quarter of my 10,000-peso monthly paycheck on work clothes. I am not a fashion victim. I would far rather spend it on a car. I do it to keep up appearances and that's the harsh reality of our corporate society."

GET SOME FASHION SENSE

Despite such pressures, the vast majority of Mexican office workers remain sartorially challenged. They neither have the money nor the sense of style to compete with their wealthier colleagues. Although its maquiladoras pump out apparel for their counterparts in the United States, the domestic rag trade seems to remain arrested in the early 80s.

A stroll through any mall or a tour of any but the classiest business districts would leave the fashion-conscious shopper in tears upon rediscovering the brown polyester double-breasted suit, yellow shirt and pencil tie combo not seen in the United States or Europe for decades. Those looking for quality and style at a reasonable price are limited to a few international chains, such as Zara (a Spanish retailer), or the local tailor.

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But what Mexican business folk lack in their threads, they certainly make up for in civility. Cordiality in business dealings is non-negotiable. The American attitude of "time is money" is considered highly uncouth here. Mexicans believe that the personal and social aspects of business relationships are as important as the economic ones. Therefore, in all their interactions, Mexican executives employ etiquette and protocol to invite trust and friendship.

CORDIALITY RULES

One example of this small talk. It may be cheap, but polite chitchat is a vital commodity. No dealing is done until the tame subjects of soccer, family, traffic and the weather have been firmly dealt with. The rise in popularity of SMS text messaging and walkie talkie-style mobile phones has been attributed to this, since they have given business people a convenient means of conversing without the requisite idle banter.

In formal situations, Mexicans quickly adopt a very formal style of discourse. In order to show respect, titles such as Licenciado (college graduate) and Ingeniero (engineer) as well as the third person formal usted are used when addressing superior parties. And when a boss calls for an employee, the common reply is "!Mande!" which means "At your service." In most other Spanish-speaking countries, the term is considered antiquated and classist.

While direct public critisim of an individual is avoided at all costs, at the other end of the spectrum, it is commonplace to hear excessive flattery. Even in seemingly important negotiations, Mexicans prefer to say what their counterpart wishes to hear rather than the truth. "It took me a long time and a lot of frustration to work out whether 'Yes' means 'yes', 'maybe' or 'no,'" said Sam Carter, a British entrepreneur who has lived in Mexico City for five years. "As a foreigner, it is good practice to think carefully as to how your comments will be received," he added.

In his book, "There's a Word For It in Mexico," Boye de Mente attributes these social graces to Mexico's historically authoritarian nature. He claims that these are methods Mexicans have traditionally used to protect themselves from the sensibilities of those holding power.

In Mexico, corporate style and comportment may seem somewhat anachronistic. Yet many firms are realizing that the manner in which their executives present themselves is vital for the corporate image. They are learning to take advantage of this entrenched culture. In many sectors, they accept that whatever the motives, a formal appearance, polite attitude and the ability to relate socially are vital assets for the modern executive.

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Victor Godoa, a public image consultant who has made a career of preaching the truisms of "first impressions count" and "image is power," believes that although they are conservative, Mexicans are on a par with their global peers, especially in larger corporations. "They are realizing that their physical appearance and non-verbal and verbal communication must reflect the very essence of their organization," he said.

However, some companies are turning their backs on the traditionalist vein. The Internet firm Todito has fostered a more pragmatic approach to the dress and manner of its employees. "Unless we have a formal meeting with customers, we don't enforce dress codes, nor do we use old stuffy titles. Within our corporate hierarchy, social barriers do not exist," said Manuel Verduzco, a senior manager who regularly wears jeans to work. "Although I expect my team to be friendly and polite, we put business results before stale old protocols."

While attire is extremely important in the nation's professional business environment, dapper dress codes and politesse do not guarantee a sound public image. After all, some of Mexico's best-dressed people are its politicians. And who actually likes or trusts them?

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Antenor Sada

Age:23

Profession: Accountant.

Company: Deloitte & Touche.

How would you describe your work look?: Young format and sporty.

How much do you spend monthly on work clothes?: 1,000-2,000 pesos.

Does your office have a dress code?: Yes we must wear format attire. Dark suits and the like.

Would you prefer to dress more casually?: I would like to use a more European style. Elegant, yet relaxed. Here business casual means not wearing a tie.

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RELATED ARTICLE: Style tips by Mexico City fashion consultant Alex Fernandez.

1. When in doubt, dress formally.

2. If it is hot, wear cotton. It keeps you looking and feeling cool.

3. Patterned shirt or patterned tie, never both,

4. Unless you work in a trendy company, always go for a classic before fashionable look

5. A tailored suit can be surprisingly economical and will always be a better cut than something off the rack.

6. Avoid excess use of hair products and styling. It can look gaudy.

7. Ladies, the same advice goes for make-up.

8. For a sophisticated yet unostentatious look, women can accessorize with pearls and a scarf.

9. Where possible, always choose shoes with leather soles.

10. Women should avoid mini skirts and tight pants.

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Minerva Martinez

Age: 32

Profession: Administrator

Company: Telmex

How would you describe your look?: Formal but with a female touch. Color is important.

How much do you spend monthly on work clothes?: 2,000 pesos.

Does your firm have a dress code?: Yes, formal. No short skirts or revealing tops.

Would you like to dress more casually?: No. I like wearing smart clothes. It creates a good impression with customers and colleagues.

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RELATED ARTICLE: Tips on Mexican etiquette.

When referring to a senior person or someone you don't know well, use "Usted."

It is polite to make small talk before getting down to business.

A hug, or "abrazo," between men as a greeting is common once they are well acquainted.

If you made the invitation for a drink or meal, offer to pay the bill.

When someone sneezes, always say "Salud."

When entering into a meeting or social situation, greet everyone individually and with a handshake. Eye contact and a smile are important.

Rawdon Messenger is a Mexico City-based freelance writer.