Strictly ornamental: great grasses spruce up a withering late summer garden. (Gardening).

Southern gardening in late summer could be considered nothing short of wearisome, even for the most well-intentioned gardeners. We're hot. Our gardens are melting or drying up. We cut grass with gritted teeth and tug the ever-present garden hose. In this landscape that seems to offer few inspirations, the true beauty and resilience of ornamental grasses becomes apparent.

Ornamental grasses have the unique ability to meet the needs of Southern gardeners at the two most difficult times of the year, late summer and the dead of winter. Peak growing time for most grasses is late summer, with blooms appearing by early fall. The same blooms or flower stalks that seem clean and gracefully neat in summer become interesting dried silhouettes in the winter garden.

At first glance, this class of plants could seem intimidatingly large to the newcomer. There are hundreds of grasses that make plant selection a challenge. Without some knowledge of the differing characteristics, it could also seem that one grass is like another. Grasses, however, have striking differences that may not be readily seen upon selection from a container. For instance, some change colors by fall, some reach mammoth sizes, some have white blooms, some have pink blooms, some are invasive. It is best to determine what the garden needs before deciding on a grass, because there is certainly one that fits the bill.

Grasses are classified as either cool-season grasses or warm-season grasses. This is important to keep in mind because warm-season grasses are better suited to our region than cool-season grasses. Warm-season grasses peak during hot periods and become dormant during cool periods. Cool-season grasses do just the opposite, peaking during the cooler months and becoming dormant when the temperatures rises. The last thing our gardens need is a plant that doesn't thrive on heat! Blue fescue, a small, spiky, powder-blue grass, is an example of a cool-season grass which behaves characteristically in our area. It performs well until the summer heat arrives, then it begins to almost wilt and dry up. Most experienced gardeners would recommend limiting selection to those warm-season grasses which perform well in Mississippi.

One large group of ornamental grasses, with seemingly unlimited choices, is called Miscanthus. Giant Miscanthus is as large as the name implies. This grass is a good choice for screening or hedging, as it grows to over ten feet in height. Maiden grass is a well-known member of the Miscanthus group and is easily recognizable. Maiden grass is a bright green, fine, wispy-looking grass that grows in large clumps, creating a graceful mood. Maiden grass also works well as a back border plant behind tall perennials. Zebra grass and porcupine grass, which are similar in appearance with their variegated creamy bands of color but differ in form, are also part of this group.

A second large group of grasses are the Pennisetums. Falling into this group are some of the more well-known, popular grasses. Fountain grasses, named so for structural growth that resembles a fountain, are interesting specimens. Fountain grass is well suited to mass plantings and can also be used as container plantings. Purple fountain grass is one of the most popular varieties. Deep burgundy with rose plumes, this grass is striking. Unlike the majority of grasses, purple fountain grass is an annual in Mississippi, with the exception of the coast. It will grow to approximately four feet.

Another grass worth mentioning is the muhly grass. Norman Winter, a Mississippi State University horticulturist, has aptly described this plant as the grass that steals the show every year." Graceful pink blooms appear en masse over this grass and, from a distance, appear to be a wispy, pink cloud floating above the grass. It truly is stunning. This grass grows to three to five feet and is native to this part of the country.

Other large, striking grasses include pampas grass and ravenna. During the season, both grow in large clumps which appear to be as wide as they are high. When flower stalks develop, however, these two grasses take on height and drama. These grasses can reach twelve feet and work well alone or as screening.

This time of year is perfect for observing ornamental grasses and making choices for what to plant in the spring. Besides nurseries, state experimental growing sites are wonderful places to explore. Victor Maddox, plant material teacher and horticulturist with Mississippi State University, informed me that the MSU arboretum currently has 15-20 varieties of ornamental grasses available for public viewing. Other sites to consider visiting, according to retired MSU professor Lester Estes, are the Crystal Springs or Verona experiment stations.

Anyone interested in growing ornamental grasses would benefit from a conversation with Maddox, due to his wealth of knowledge and personal growing experience. In the Pennisetum group, he indicated a couple of other varieties good for specific growing conditions. Little Bunny, a dwarf fountain grass, could be considered a front border or lower growing grass, while Burgundy Giant works well as an accent plant. In addition to the fairly recognizable lemon grass, Maddox suggests Vetiveria for an aromatic grass. Some native grasses such as switch grass, little bluestem or big bluestem, and Indian grass are other fine choices.

Bamboo is an ornamental grass, but according to Maddox, it is actually characterized as a tropical cool-season grass. Another difference with bamboo is that they are shade species. Most people realize that bamboo is an extremely invasive grass that needs to be planted with care. When planting bamboo, always consider some type of physical barrier to prevent the aggressive runners from invading other spaces (be it yours or your neighbors'). Every recommendation has been made for curbing the runners--from stomping the new shoots, mowing, digging trenches, even raising chickens to eat the new shoots. Interestingly enough, the most common suggestion--mowing--may not solve the problem. Maddox points out that even mowing a 10-foot wide path around a clump of bamboo may not be enough. Runners are able to reach beyond that depth, eventually sending new shoots ten feet or more from the plant. He does indicate that smaller species tend to be less aggressive. Some types of bamboo to consider growing are Sasa, Sasa-ella, Himino bambusa, Phyllostachys, and Sasa palmata.

Some grasslike plants that actually are not considered ornamental grasses are liriope and mondo grass. These two make wonderful edging or border plants and are perennial. In early spring, many Southerners prefer to cut back these plants, ridding the plants of old growth.

Growing ornamental grasses is not difficult. Sun is essential. Most are drought-tolerant and do not need lots of water. Maddox points out that the larger grasses such as pampas will require more water. Grasses do not require pruning during the season and are generally not prone to disease. Ornamental grasses do need to be cut back in late winter or early spring, just as they begin to green up again. Companion plantings with ornamental grasses are generally chosen for opposing texture or height. Some common companion plants are sedums, penstemons, low growing junipers, rudbeckia, and even other grasses.

The vast variety of ornamental grasses leaves gardeners with endless growing scenarios. Their unique color, height, texture, and bloom characteristics make gardening in the South an exciting venture even during the bleakest moments of a season.