Stolking asparagus.

asparagus Officialis... Wild in Nature

Every vegetable has a history, and asparagus is no exception. A member of the lily family, asparagus has been highly valued since ancient times; the Romans cultivated this perennial favorite as early as the first century A.D. A Roman patrician's pride and joy was his vegetables. It was a perfectly acceptable trade to raise vegetables, whereas raising cattle was considered uncivilized. The Romans were quite advanced in developing plants that would ensure them a full bounty of good tasting and nutritious vegetables. They took wild -- and sometimes unappetizing -- plants and transformed them into welcomed additions to the Romans' menus: in addition to asparagus, they cultivated cabbage, sprouts, broccoli, lettuce, endive, onions, leeks, artichokes, radishes, and cucumbers. In fact, the Romans' integration of a variety of vegetables into their menus has significantly influenced modern cuisine, and, the Romans' played an integral part in developing the agricultural practices we still follow today.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Syria, Egypt, and Spain continued to cultivate asparagus. After its arrival in Europe -- mainly in France and the U.K.--different varieties of the plant were developed, more specifically those producing pencil-thin shoots as opposed to the large, thick stalks grown by Roman predecessors. Interestingly enough, North America did not cultivate asparagus in significant amounts until late in the 19th century.

Eat Your Vegetables

Soon after winter loosens its cold grip, asparagus stalks rear their beautiful heads up through the soil. Asparagus is one vegetable that we eat while it is still young and vital. This early harvest affords us the advantage of enjoying asparagus' tender, sweet characteristics. At this young stage, the vegetable is highly nutritious and contains the growing energy of the plant itself.

The medicinal virtues of asparagus are legendary. Folklore credits asparagus with everything from curing toothaches to aiding in reproduction. More recently touted beneficial ingredients of asparagus are Vitamins C, A, and E, and B Vitamin (folic acid), and the antioxidant glutathione -- known for being a powerful cancer fighter. Asparagus also contains calcium, copper, magnesium, iron, and phosphorous. And, if this dynamic beneficial combination isn't sufficient enough to merit bragging rights, the plant is also low in calories. One spear contains about four calories. Our knowledge about the nutritional value of asparagus only enhances our appreciation of this Old World plant.

Growing Pains

The section of a garden used for planting asparagus is often referred to as a permanent bed, and with a suitable climate and careful tending of the crop, asparagus will grow for fifteen to twenty-five years without replanting. Lee Jones of The Chef's Garden's is well-versed on the subject of permanent asparagus beds, but prefers to take a different approach to the standard philosophy of growing the plants: "We can plant roots two or three years in a row, but then go some years where we won't plant any new stock, and we usually have four or five plantings in at any one time. I know of some farms that have kept the rootstock for up to thirty years. We like to dig it up and break it apart on a more regular basis because the asparagus gets too big -- the stock seems to do better when it has a new start to it."

Despite the admirable longevity of an established asparagus bed, the plants get off to a slow start. Asparagus requires about three years from the time the crown is planted (it takes one year to grow a sufficient crown) until the bed is fully producing. These plantings will eventually yield eight to ten pounds per 100 square feet of raised bed or twenty-four to thirty pounds per 100 feet of row.

A Product of Its Environment

Three types of asparagus are most commonly cultivated worldwide: white, purple, and green. In Europe where white asparagus is prevalent, the plants basically never see the light of day during the entire growing process. The plantings are covered lavishly with fertilizer and harvested while still under soil level. This process tends to temper the flavor of the asparagus and promotes a larger, woodier stalk. Although European farmers typically use this particular growing technique, farmers in the United States do not necessarily embrace this method. According to Lee Jones, "In Europe the farmers throw dirt around the asparagus in order to blanch it. Unfortunately, the asparagus then becomes a product of its environment with the stalks becoming tough and woody on the outside. That's why French chefs have a tendency to peel the stalks. We've developed a system that thwarts this outcome. We built a greenhouse over the top of the rows so the asparagus doesn't need to push up through the dirt in order to blanch. The greenhouse also allows for ventilation so the plants don't become brown or rot. The greenhouse is basically a 300-foot dark tunnel. When it's time to cut the asparagus, we open up the end of the greenhouse, throw on a coal miner's hat with a lamp on it, and harvest the asparagus. With this growing technique, the asparagus skin stays tender, and there's no need to peel it. After all, the skin is where all of the nutrition and flavor lies, and isn't this what vegetables are all about?"

SCOTT BRYAN

veritas - new york, new york

Asparagus as aphrodisiac "Poor Madame de Pompadour nearly faded away by restricting her diet to asparagus tips with egg yolks, in addition to celery leaves, truffles and vanilla -- all to no avail -- not realizing that although love begins in the mind, passion requires a healthy body." Geraldine Holt The Gourmet Garden.

As it stands, European trained chefs favor thicker-stalked, white asparagus, while American chefs prefer both the purple and green varieties with stalk sizes that are categorized as angel hair, baby, pencil, standard, and jumbo. But, according to Jones, there is no rhyme or reason that dictates why one type of asparagus is considered more popular than another: "Some chefs prefer asparagus that's very slender; some like the stalks to be as thick as your thumb. There's really no definitive pattern to their choices. We do find, however, that European trained chefs tend to shun green asparagus in general. They pretty much consider green asparagus to be hog food. Of course, in America, green asparagus is all we ever ate for years, and most of us think that it's pretty delicious. In the end, it's really just a matter of personal taste of the chefs, or maybe their choices are contingent on where they were trained."

When it comes to growing asparagus on a national scale, for Jones there is no discussion: "If you talk with one of the huge asparagus growers, they're not even growing white asparagus commercially. Any of the asparagus that you are getting year round is coming out of Chile, where during its growing period it is covered with soil -- which again only serves to produce a very, very woody piece of asparagus. Sometimes, you're just better off throwing this asparagus away and eating the cardboard box it came in instead." Enough said.

Although his cuisine gravitates towards Asian and French cultures, Chef Scott Bryan started out his cooking career in New England under the auspices of Bob Kinkead -- first at The Harvest in Boston and then at 21 Federal in Nantucket: "My very first kitchen job was working atThe Harvest when I was seventeen. At the time I was attending Johnson and Wales and decided to drop out because I realized that I had learned more in a month at the restaurant than I had in a year at culinary school. For me, the best culinary education at that time was hands-on experience."

Bryan's early beginnings at accomplished restaurants were precursors to his eventual success. His true culinary training boasts stints at stellar restaurants with many well-known names in the industry -- Bob Kinkead, David Bouley, Eric Ripert, Gray Kunz, and Richard Leach. Although this roster of talent may have enhanced Chef Bryan's career in the kitchen, he is most recognized for his love of unmanipulated food that conveys the epitome of intense flavors: "I think my food is very straightforward -- almost Italian in philosophy. My main focus is bringing out the natural flavors of whatever ingredient I happen to be working with. It's important that each ingredient retains its natural essence. I try not to get things 'muddy' or confusing on the palate. I have a tendency to lean towards Thai food for this very reason. Thai food is clean, fresh, high in acid, and employs a great balance of sweet and sour flavors."

Chef Bryan's menu adheres to what he knows best -- using ingredients and cooking techniques that only serve to enhance a diner's experience. His dishes yield food that exudes a certain air of delicacy while unearthing the true flavors of the ingredients that he skillfully pairs. As Bryan readily concludes, "I love to cook. I'm a cook first and foremost. Gathering ideas through different venues and seeing them come to fruition with a finished product is pretty gratifying." Attention to detail matched with unfussy yet vibrantly flavored foods may seem contradictory, but, in the hands of Chef Bryan, the combination attests to the success of his cooking philosophy.

Maria Lohninger

danube - new york, new york

As Executive Chef at Danube, Austrian born Mario Lohninger combines his passion for Old World flavors with a modern vision of the endless possibilities available to creative chefs. His inspiration comes from both his childhood memories and his traditional European upbringing: "I had a good relationship with food from the start. Spending my early childhood with my grandfather at his bakery and then just a few years later with my father 'at his restaurant gave me a great introduction to the food service industry and what it took to succeed. My sister and I helped manage my father's restaurant. It was tough because of all of the work that was involved, but at least the family was in it together. This is where we spent our formative years. But my parents also encouraged us to have fun at what we were doing, and I think this is something I strive to do to this day."

With a solid knowledge of the profession at an early age, Chef Lohninger decided to attend management school for one year to learn both the 'restaurant and gastronomic business. He then served as an apprentice in Salzburg with Austria's finest, Rudy and Karl Obauer. While in Salzburg, Chef Lohninger's enduring love for innovative Austrian cuisine continued to grow. Moving on to Munich, Chef Lohninger worked with fellow Austrian Hans Haas at Tantris, the legendary restaurant of master chef Eckart Witzigmann, reputed to be the first person to elevate Austrian cuisine to its highest level, rivaling that of the French.

At age nineteen, Chef Lohninger was gaining invaluable experience at Tantris and, as such, was ready to venture to New York City. Once in the States, he worked with Theo Schoenegger at San Domenico Restaurant. Around this time, he was asked to prepare a meal for Wolfgang Puck. Puck was making his own mark on the restaurant scene with food embracing both Italian and French cuisine. Lohninger saw potential in the synergy of these two classic culinary styles, and so the two chefs' long work affair began.

Heading to California, Chef Lohninger worked for Puck for a short time but was then drawn to Paris to work at the Guy Savoy, keeping in touch with Puck the entire time he was in Europe: "Wolfgang 'and I wanted to open a restaurant together, so that was the motivation for me to leave Europe for good and stay in America. I worked with Wolfgang for two years and progressed as a sous chef, all the while honing my management skills. But I wasn't completely happy with the food. It wasn't really what I wanted to do. It is then that the opportunity with Danube came to pass. I decided to take the challenge and started working with David Bouley."

At Danube, Chef Lohninger has succeeded in adhering to his Austrian culinary roots while introducing innovative and inspirational dishes befitting a savvy Manhattan clientele. Lohninger realizes that catering to the high expectations of the North Coast dining crowd has its challenges: "I think there are differences between New York and other parts of the country as far as what diners like to eat. In NewYork, you have so many good restaurants known for their signature dishes -- these are inherent to the NewYork restaurant scene. They pretty much attract the customers. But customers are also looking 'for something new; so the creative part of the 'food cannot be underestimated. I think that tasting menus satisfy the need for new sensations and experiences. It is here where I can base my food on a harder core Austrian theme. This part of the country is much more open to it. The cuisine lends itself to the North Coast because we experience four seasons -- it seems to change people's moods as well as their tastes. "

Chef Lohninger feels it is important to instill in his staff an appreciation for what it takes to succeed in a very difficult business: "Day to day, I love to work with my cooks. They really are the ones who make me look good. Sure, I try to lead by example and there are certain things I need to do in order to run the kitchen, but I like to pick their brains, too. Some days, though, I'll have ten people in the kitchen and only two brains operating at full capacity. But it's important for me to use 'everyone's brainpower so that we're successful day to day. I'm lucky in that I have a very good sous chef who has been with me for two and a half years. His 'way of thinking is 'to support and understand me -- so we work together on almost every dish -- we taste; then we let the customer taste. The best part of my day is when I can stand in the middle of my kitchen during service and see three or four people knowing exactly what to do; their timing is exact, and they know just how many steps it will take them to fi nish a plate. I enjoy watching and being a part of everything that is going on around me, especially when sauces get painted on finished dishes and my team is playing like a finely-tuned orchestra."

Pan Roasted Veal Tenderloin with Caramelized Fingerling Potatoes and
Asparagus

(Serves 4)
SCOTT RYAN

Ingredients

For the potatoes:
8 fingerling potatoes
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 large shallots, peeled and diced
Salt and pepper to taste
For the asparagus:
12 large asparagus spears, trimmed
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste
For the veal:
4 5-ounce veal tenderloin medallions
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper to taste
For the mushroom sauce:
1 clove garlic chopped
2 cups black trumpet mushrooms sliced
1 cup veal jus heated
1 4-ounce slice for gras terrine,
 diced
4 sprigs thyme
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
1/2 cup reserved veal jus

Directions

For the potatoes: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook until slightly tender, about fifteen minutes. Peel the potatoes while still warm and thinly slice four of them. Slice the remaining potatoes in half and set aside, keeping warm in a saute pan, heat the butter. Add the shallots and sante until translucent. Add the sliced potatoes and saute until lightly caramelized. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the asparagus: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and blanch for four minutes Drain the asparagus and toss with the butter. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the veal medallions: Season the veal medallions with salt and pepper. In a saute pan, heat the canola oil and butter. Add the veal medallions and saute until medium rare, about four minutes. Remove the veal medallions from the pan and set aside, keeping warm. Maintain the heat of the saute pan.

For Mushroom sauce: In the same saute pan used to saute the veal medallions, add the garlic and saute until translucent. Add the mushrooms and saute until tender, about five minutes. Add half of the veal jus and bring the mixture to a boil. Reserve the remaining veal jus for the garnish. Add the diced foie gras; season and keep warm. Season the sauce with the lemon juice just before plating.

To serve: Spoon a portion of the caramelized potatoes onto a plate and top with the halved potatoes. Arrange three asparagus and a veal medallion next to the potatoes. Spoon a portion of the mushroom sauce on top and drizzle with the veal jus. Garnish with thyme springs.

Syrah Galle

Cafe Rolie

N Rhone France 2000

Asparagus Soup with Soft Poached Egg and Black Truffles

(Serves 2)

Scott Bryan

ingredients

For the soup:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small white onion, peeled and sliced
8 jumbo asparagus, trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 fingerling potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
3 cups chicken stock
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

For the eggs:
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
2 extra large eggs
Water as needed
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
1 small black truffle
Buttered croutons
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Tarragon sprigs

Directions.

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Domaine De Chevalier Bordeaux, France 1994

For the soup: In a saucepan, add one tablespoon of butter and the onion. Cook the onion until translucent. Add the asparagus, potatoes, and chicken stock. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook until the asparagus and potatoes are tender, about fifteen minutes. Place the mixture in a blender; add the remaining butter and lemon juice and puree until smooth. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the eggs: Poach the eggs in salted vinegar water until soft boiled, about three minutes.

To serve: Place a portion of soup into a bowl. Place a poached egg in the center of the soup. Grate the black truffle over the egg and soup. Sprinkle with the croutons and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Garnish with the tarragon sprigs.

Asparagus with Sauteed Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Chive Fondue

(Serves 2)

Scobryan

For the asparagus: 6 jumbo asparagus trimmed and blanched 1 tablespoon
olive oil Salt and pepper to taste

ingredients

For the fondue:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups assorted wild mushrooms sliced
2 cloves garlie, peeled and chopped
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons Madeira
2 tablespoons creme fraiche
2 tablespoons chicken stock
1 teaspoon white truffle oil
1/2 burich chives, minced
1/4 teaspoon lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnich:
Basil leaves

directions For the asparagus: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Season the asparagus with the olive oil and salt and pepper. Place on a sheet pan, roast for twelve minutes, and set aside; keeping warm.

For the fondue: In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Add the butter and mushrooms and saute until the mushrooms are lightly colored and soft, about five minutes. Add the garlic and shallot and saute for thirty seconds. Deglaze with the Madeira. Add the creme fraiche, chicken stock, truffle oil, chives, and lemon juice, and simmer for about two minutes. Remove from the heat and season.

To serve: Place three asparagus on a plat. Spoon a portion of the fondue on top of the asparagus and garnish with the basil leaves.

Muscot Goldest Grand Cru Domainze Zind Humbrecht Alsace, France, 1998

Porcini-Dusted Maine Cod with Asparagus Puree

(Serves 4)

SCO BRYAN

Ingredients

For the asparagus puree
5 Jumbo asparagus
3 tablespoons insalted butter
1/4 teaspoon lemon juice

For the shiitake mushrooms:
2 tablespoons extgra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 cup shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1/2 cup English peas, blanced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster emulsion:
1 cup reduced lobster stock
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Juice of  1/2 lemon
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt to taste

For the cod filets:
4-6-ounce cod filets
2 tablespoons porcini powder
2 tablespoons canola oil
Salt and pepper to tast

For the garnish:
4 sprongs tarragon

Directions

For the asparagus puree: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus cook until tender and drain. Place the asparagus, butter and lemon juice in a blender and puree until smooth. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the shiitake mushrooms: In a saute pan, heat the extra virgin olive oil and butter. Add the shallot and garlic and cook until translucent. Add the mushrooms and peas and cook until tender about five minutes. Season and set aside. Keeping warm.

For the lobster emulsion: In a saute pan, bring the lobster stock to a boil. Add the butter lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. With a hand held immersion blender, puree the mixture until emulsified. Season with salt and set aside, keeping warm.

For the cod filets: Season with salt and pepper and dust with the porcini powder. In a saute pan, heat the canola oil. Sear the filets on both sides until desired doneness.

To serve: Spoon a portion of the asparagus puree in the center of a plate and arrange the shiitake mixuture on top. Place a cod filet on top of the mushrooms and spoon the lobster emulsion around the plate. Garnish with a spring of tarragon.

Folatieres, Premier Cru

Henri Ballat

Burgundy, France 2000

Asparagus and Lobster Salad with Herb Emulsion

(Serves 4)

Bryan

Ingredients

For the lobster:
2 1 1/4-pound lobsters, boiled and shelled
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
1/2 bunch chives, minced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the herb emulsion:
2 cups assorted stemmed herbs: basil, tarragon, parsley, chervil,
 and mint
1 egg yolk
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons water
1 cup grapseed oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
1 cup peppercress
1/2 cup English peas, blanched
Basil oil
12 medium asparagus, trimmed, blanched, sliced in half
length-wise

Directions

For the lobster: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and toss to combine. Season and set aside.

Viognier Condrieu Clusel Roch N. Rhone, France 2001

For the herb emulsion: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the herbs and blanch for one minute. Shock the herbs in an ice bath and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Squeeze the excess water out of the herbs. Place the egg yolk, lemon juice, and water in a blender and mix until thick and well combined. With the blender running, slowly add the oil and blend until emulsified. Add the herbs and mix until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Spoon a small pool of the herb emulsion in the middle of a plate. Place sliced asparagus on top of the herb emulsion. Top with the meat of one lobster claw and knuckle and half of one lobster tail. Mound the peppercress on top of the lobster and garnish with the peas. Drizzle the plate with basil oil.

Vanilla Glazed White Asparagus with Whole Roasted Sweetbreads

(Serves 4)

Maria Lohninger

ingredients

For the veal sauce:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ounces veal top round, diced
1 small leek, white part only, finely chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 small rib celery, finely chopped
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup white wine
1 1/2 cups veal stock
1 bay leaf
1 spring lemon thyme
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
Salt, pepper, and ground nutmeg to taste

For the asparagus sauce:
2 teaspoons unsalted butter, chilled
2 shallots, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
8 white asparagus, trimmed and peeled
1/4 cup Riesling wine
1 cup chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sweetbreads:
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
Salt pepper, ground clove, ground cinnamon to taste
7 ounces sweetbreads, blanched, skinned, and deveined
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary
2 teaspoons reserved veal sauce

For the asparagus:
8 white asparagus, trimmed, pealed, and blanched
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1/2 cup vegetable stock
1 spring lemon thyme
Salt and pepper to taste

For the spring salad:
1 head Bibb lettuce
1/2 cup micro Upland Cress *
1/2 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
4 slices prosciutto

* Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

directions

For the veal sauce: In a saute pan, brown the butter. Add the veal and saute until browned on all sides. Add the leek, carrot, celery, and onion and saute until translucent. Deglaze with the white wine and add the veal stock, bay leaf, lemon thyme, and black peppercorns. Simmer until reduced by three-quarters. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Reserve two teaspoons of the veal sauce and keep warm.

For the asparagus sauce: In a saute pan, heat one teaspoon of the butter. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until translucent. Add the asparagus and saute lightly. Deglaze with the Riesling. Add the chicken stock and summer until the asparagus are tender, about 20 minutes. Finish with the remaining butter and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season with salt and pepper. Reserve the asparagus separately. Using a hand held immersion blender, puree the asparagus sauce until light and foamy.

For the sweetbreads: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a saute pan, heat the grapeseed oil and butter. Season the sweetbreads with salt, pepper, clove, and cinnamon. Sear the sweetbreads on both sides and add the rosemary to the pan. Roast the sweetbreads in the oven for about 5-7 minutes, turning occasionally. Remove from the oven and deglaze with the reserved veal sauce. Let rest for one minute. Cut into eight slices and reserve warm.

For the asparagus: In a saute pan, heat the butter. Add the asparagus and toss to coat. Add the vanilla bean, vegetable stock, and lemon thyme. Cook the asparagus until tender and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

For the spring salad: In a small bowl, combine the lettuce, Upland Cress, balsamic vinegar, and grapeseed oil and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper.

To Serve: Arrange two asparagus on a plate, and place a portion of the spring salad on top. Lay two slices of the sweetbreads on top and arrange two slices of prosciutto around them. Drizzle with the asparagus sauce.

Gruner Veltliner Axpoint Smaragd Wachau, Austria 1999

Warm Rabbit Salad with Foie Gras, White Asparagus, and Tarragon-Riesling
Sauce

(Serves 4)

Maria Lohmnger

ingredients

For the rabbit sauce:
1/2 cup canola oil
2 3/4 pounds rabbit saddle bones
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
5 shallots, peeled and sliced
2 bunches scallions, white part only, sliced
1 leek, white part only, sliced
1 rib celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
6 ounces white mushrooms, sliced
1/3 cup Madeira wine
2 cups plus 3 tablespoons Riesling wine
3 1/4 cups chicken stock
2 springs thyme
2 springs tarragon
1 bay leaf
Salt and pepper to taste

For the asparagus marinade:
12 white asparagus, trimmed and peeled
1 cup chicken stock
1 large shallot, peeled and finely diced
1 cup reserved asparagus cooking water
1/4 cup Champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt, white pepper, and sugar to taste

For the tarragon-Riesling sauce:
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon rabbit sauce
1/4 cup Riesling wine
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 cup packed tarragon leaves
1 1/4 cup packed chervil leaves
1 1/2 cups packed parsley leaves
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the rabbit:
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 sprig rosemary, split
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
4 rabbit loins
4 rabbit chops
Salt and pepper to taste

For the foie gras:
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 1 1/2-inch thick slices foie gras
1/4 cup Wondra[R] flour
Salt and Pepper to taste

For the salad:
Sliced radishes
1/2 cup chervil leaves
1/2 cup Bibb lettuce
1/2 cup mache
1/2 cup frisee
1/2 cup mustard leaves
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
2 sprigs tarragon, stemmed and minced
2 sprigs chervil, stemmed and minced
2 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced

For the dish:
12 thin slices foie gras terrine

directions

For the rabbit sauce: Place a large saucepan over high heat and add the canola oil. Season the rabbit saddle bones; sear lightly and set aside. Drain the oil from the pan and lower the heat to medium. Add the butter and using a wooden spoon, scrape the bottom of the pan. Add the shallot, scallions, leek, and celery. Season and saute until the shallot is translucent. Add the garlic and mushrooms and saute for five minutes; Deglaze with the Madeira and add the seared bones, Riesling, and chicken stock. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 1 1/2 hours, skimming occasionally. Tie the thyme, tarragon, and bay leaf in cheesecloth to make a sachet. Add it to the sauce and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside to cool. Skim off fat that has formed on the surface and season. Reserve 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon rabbit sauce.

For the asparagus marinade: Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and season with salt and sugar. Tie the asparagus into two bundles of six with butcher's twine. Simmer the asparagus in the water until tender, about 10 minutes. Reserve one cup of the cooking water. Shock the asparagus in ice water and untie immediately. Once cooled, place the asparagus into a bowl. In a medium saucepan, combine the chicken stock, shallot, and the reserved asparagus cooking Water. Season and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and add the vinegar and olive oil. Pour the marinade over the asparagus and place in the refrigerator for two hours.

For the tarragon-Riesling sauce: In a blender, combine the reserved rabbit sauce, Riesling, mustard, coriander seeds, tarragon, chervil, and parsley. Blend on high speed until thoroughly combined. With the machine running, add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream and blend until combined. Season; strain through a fine mesh sieve and place over an ice bath. Allow to cool, stirring occasionally.

For the rabbit: Add the rosemary sprig and the shallots and saute until the shallots are translucent. Season the rabbit loins and chops and saute until desired doneness. Slice each of the rabbit loins into four pieces.

For the foie gras: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a medium saute pan over high heat and add the oil. Season the foie gras and dust with the flour. Sear the foie gras, turning once, for one minute and remove. Place in the oven for 2 minutes.

For the salad: In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients.

To serve: Place three asparagus spears in the center of a plate and arrange a portion of salad on top. Place a slice of rabbit loin on one side of the plate and a rabbit chop in the center. Place a slice of the seared foie gras next to the rabbit chop. Arrange three slices of the foie gras terrine around the plate. Coat the rabbit with the rabbit sauce and drizzle the tarragon-Riseling sauce around the plate.

Riesling, Steinmassl N. Brundlmayer Kamptal, Austria 1999

Almond Crusted Halibut with Asparagus and Porcini Mushrooms

(Serves 4)

Maria Lohninger

ingredients

For the asparagus:
2 pounds asparagus,
 4-inch pieces with tips,
 stems reserved
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

For the Kohlrabi:
2 pounds peeled and
 quartered kohlrabi
1 tablespoon butter
2 shallots, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
1/4 cup white wine
Salt and pepper to taste

For the asparagus sauce:
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
2 shallots, peeled and sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
Reserved asparagus stems
1/3 cup white wine
3 cups vegetable stock
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme

For the porcini mushrooms:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and mashed
1 sprig thyme
1/2 pound porcini mushrooms,
 trimmed and thickly sliced
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the balibut filets:
4.5-ounce halibut filets
1/2 cup blanched and finely
 chopped almonds
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Salt and pepper

Directions

Chardonnay Select

F. Wieninger

Stammersdorf Vienna 1998

For the asparagus: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Blanch the asparagus tips until just tender. Shock in ice water and drain. Keep cool.

For the kohlrabi: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook the kohlrabi until tender. Shock in ice water and drain thoroughly. Place the kohlrabi into a juicer and extract the liquid. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and reserve the kohlrabi liquid. Skim the foam off the liquid. In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until translucent. Season with salt and pepper. Deglaze with the white wine; reduce slightly and add the kohlrabi liquid. Place the mixture in a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan and keep warm.

For the asparagus sauce: In a saute pan, melt the butter. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until translucent. Add the asparagus stems and cook slightly. Season with salt and pepper. Deglaze with the white wine and reduce by half. Add the vegetable stock, bay leaf, and thyme and simmer gently until the asparagus is tender. Place the mixture in a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan and keep warm. Reserve three tablespoons of the sauce to finish the dish.

For the porcini mushrooms: In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and thyme and saute until tender. Add the porcini mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Saute the mushrooms until tender; and the butter and toss to coat.

For the halibut filets: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Season both sides of the filets with salt and pepper. Press one side of each of the filets into the chopped almonds. In a saute pan, add the canola oil. Add the filets, almond-coated side down, and saute until the almonds are golden brown. Turn the filets over in the pan and place in the oven to finish, about six minutes. Place the saute pan back on the heat and add the butter. Baste the filets with the melted butter. Slice the filets in half horizontally.

To finish the dish: In a saute pan, add the butter and reserved asparagus sauce. Add the asparagus tips and toss with the sauce until just warmed through. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Spoon a portion of the kohlrabi liquid onto the center of a plate. Place the bottom half of the filet on top of the liquid. Place the almond crusted top of the filet on top of the bottom half of the filet at an angle. Arrange the asparagus tips and sauteed porcini mushrooms around the filets. Spoon the remaining asparagus sauce around the dish.

Chardonnay Select F. Wieninger Stammersdorf Vienna 1998

Calves' Head Terrine with Asparagus and Parsley Jus

(serves 10)

Maria Lohninger

ingredients

For the calves' head:
1/2 pound calves' head cheeks, rinsed
1/2 pound calves' head fat, rinsed
3/4 pound calves' tongue, rinsed
2 carrots
2 leeks
1 sprig parsley
2 tablespoons white peppercorns
Kosher salt to taste

For the terrine:
Reserved meat, fat, and tongue, diced
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 cup white Champagne vinegar
1 small carrot, peeled, finely
minced and blanched
1 small leek, trimmed, finely
minced ad blanched
1/2 small celeriac, peeled, finely
minced and blanched
1 tablespoon finely minced marjoram
1 tablespoon finely minced thyme
2 egg whites
7 1/2 ounces whole veal eye loin,
sliced in half lengthwise
1 pound caul fat, cut in half, cleaned,
rinsed, and dried
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
Fine sea salt and peper to taste

For the veal mousse:
5 1/4 ounces veal top round, diced
1 small egg white
5 1/4 ounces heavy creem
Fine sea salt and white pepper to taste

For the parsley jus:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 bunch curly parsley
1 teaspoon heoney
Water as needed
1/4 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
30 asparagus, peeled,
trimed, and blanced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the veal sauce:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ounces veal top round, diced
1 small leek, white part only, finely diced
1 small carrot, peeled and finely diced
1 small rib celery, finely diced
1 small onion, peeled and finely diced
1/2 cup white wine
2 cups veal stock
1 bay leaf
1 sprig lemon thyme
1 teaspoon black pepercorns
Salt, pepper, and grond nutmeg to taste

For the chanterelle mushrooms:
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1 shallot, peeled and diced
1/2 cup chanterelie mushrooms,
cleaned and trmmed
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 tablespoon tomato water
2 tablespoons reserved veal sauce
1 clove garlic, peeled
Fine sea salt and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Micro chives minced

* Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone]

directions

For the calves' head: In a saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and cover with water Bring to a simmer and cook until tender, about two hours. Remove the meat, fat, and the tongue, set aside

For the terrine. Preheat the over to 250 degrees and prepare a 10 1/2 x 3 x 3 /4-inch terrine mold with plastic wrap. In a bowl, combine the reserved meat, fat, and tongue with the mustard, vinegar, carrot leek, celeriac, marjoram, thyme, and egg whites. Season and mix tocombine. Place the mixture into the prepared terrine mold. Place in a hot water bath and bake for thirty minutes. Reserve, keeping warm. Set aside the veal eye loin, caul fat, ad vegetable oil.

For the veal mousse: Place the veal in the chilled bowl of a food processor and puree until smooth. Add the egg white and pulse to combine. Season and with the processor running, slowly incorporate the heavy cream in a thin, steady stream. Pass through a tamis and place in the refrigerator.

To assemble the terrine: Preheat the oven to 320 degrees. Place the two pieces of eye loin on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Cut the terrine into ten 1/2-inch slices. Place five of the terrine slices on top of each of the eye loins. Spread a portion of the veal mousse on the top and sides of the eye loin and terrine slices. Place the caul fat on a flat work surface. Invert each of the eye loins, terrine side down, onto the caul fat. Cover the inverted eye loins and terrine with the remaining veal mousse. Wrap each with the caul fat to form two tight packages. In a saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Sear the packages until browned on all sides. Place the packages on a wire rack in the oven. Roast until firm to the touch, about thirteen minutes, turning once. Let rest for five minutes. Trim off the ends of each package and slice each into five equal portions.

For the parsley jus: In a saute pan, heat the oil. Add the parsley and saute until wilted, about two minutes. Transfer the mixture to a blender. Add the honey and a small amount of water; puree until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

For the veal sauce: In a saute pan, brown the butter. Add the veal and saute until browned on all sides. Add the leek, carrot, celery, and onion, and saute until the onion is translucent. Deglaze with the white wine and add the veal stock, bay leaf, lemon thyme, and black peppercorns. Simmer until reduced by three-quarters. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and season. Reserve two tablespoons of the sauce and set all aside, keeping warm.

For the chanterelle mushrooms: In a saute pan, melt the butter. Add the shallot and saute until translucent. Add the chanterelles and saute until they are tender, about three minutes. Deglaze with the lemon juice and tomato water. Add the reserved veal sauce and the garlic clove and bring to a simmer. Discard the garlic clove and season to taste.

To finish the dish: In a saute pan, combine the chicken stock and butter. Add the asparagus and parsley jus and bring to a simmer.

To serve: Place three asparagus spears in the center of a plate. Place a slice of terrine on top of the asparagus and sprinkle with micro chives. Spoon a portion of the chanterelle mushrooms around the plate.

Blaufrankisch Cobeme Saurignon Stenzeier Kollwentz Burgenland Austra 1997

Marinated Sea Scallops with Asparagus and Passion Fruit

(Serves 6)

Maria Lohninger

ingredients

For the passion fruit vinaigrette:
4 passion fruit
1/4 cup passion fruit juice
3 tablespoons coconut milk
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 cup canola oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the asparagus:
6 asparagus, trimmed, peeled, julienned and blanched
Grapeseed oil, as needed to cover
Salt and pepper to taste

For the scallops:
6 diver scallops, each cut crosswise into 5 thin slices
Lemon juice to taste
Fleur de sel and pepper to taste
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 teaspoons black truffle oil

For the sour cream sauce:
1/2 cup sour cream
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 ounce tomato water
1/2 shallot, peeled and minced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Mache
Yellow frisee
Celery leaves
Black truffle slices
1 apple, julienned
Reserved passion fruit seeds
Fleur de sel

Directions

For passion fruit vinaigrette: Halve the passion fruit and scoop out the pulp. Place the pulp in a sieve set over a bowl. Force the pulp through the sieve. Reserve the seeds. In a blender, combine the passion fruit pulp, passion fruit juice, coconut milk, lemon juice, and lime juice. Gradually add the canola oil until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper.

For the asparagus: Place the asparagus in a shallow bowl and cover with the grapeseed oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

For the scallops: In a bowl, marinate the scallops with the lemon juice, fleur de sel, pepper, olive oil, and black truffle oil. Keep cold.

For the sour cream sauce: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients.

To serve: Arrange a portion of the asparagus on a plate. Place five slices of scallop on top of the asparagus. Drizzle the scallops with the passion fruit vinaigrette and sour cream sauce. Toss the mache, frisee, and celery leaves in the passion fruit vinaigrette and place around the scallops. Garnish with sliced black truffles, julienned apple, and seeds from the reserved passion fruit.

Sauvignon Blant Hochgrassnitzberg E&N. Polz Spielfeld, Styria 1999

Strawberry Rhubarb Gratin with Asparagus Ice Cream

(Serves 8)

Maria Lohniger

Ingredients

For the rhubarb compote:
1 pound rhubarb, diced
6 1/4 ounces granulated sugar
5 1/4 ounces water
5 1/4 ounces white wine Juice of 1 lemon

For the asparagus ice cream:
9 ounces whole milk
9 ounces heavy cream
7 ounces white asparagus, trimmed, peeled, and diced
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounces glucose syrup
1 teaspoon ice cream stabilizer
2 tablespoons milk powder
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 egg yolks

For the strawberries:
7 ounces strawberies, stemmed
1 ounces granulated sugar

For the creme anglaise:
11 1/4 ounces heavy cream
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 1/4 ounces granulated sugar
3 egg yolks

For the meringue"
3 ounces egg whites
2 ounces confectioners' sugar

For the tuiles:
3 1/2 ounces confectioners' sugar
3 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
3 1/2 ounces melted butter
2 3/4 ounces egg whites

directions

For the rhubarb compote: In a medium bowl, combine the rhubarb and two ounces of the sugar. Toss to coat and set aside covernight. Strain and reserve the rhubarb and juice separately. Place the rhubarb in a bowl and set aside. In a medium saucepan, combine the reserved rhubarb juice, remaining sugar, water white wine, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and pour over the rhubarb. Set aside until the rhubarb is tender.

For the asparagus ice cream: In a saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk, cream, asparagus, sugar, glucose syrup, stabilizer, milk powder, and vanilla bean to a boil for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. Place the egg yolks in a medium bowl and temper by adding one-third of the not cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks into the hot cream and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Once the mixture reaches 185 degrees, remove from the heat. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside over an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the strawberries: In a medium bowl, combine the strawberries and sugar. Toss to coat and set aside.

For the creme anglaise: In a large saucepan, bring the cream and vanilla bean to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, and egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly.

Whisk the tempered egg yolks into the hot cream and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set over an ice bath until chilled and reserve in the refrigerator.

For the meringue: Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer. Whisk until doubled in size. Maintain the speed and gradually add the sugar in a steady stream, mixing until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the meringue into the creme anglaise.

For the tuiles: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place eight ramekins on a sheet pan. In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and whisk to combine. Cover and set aside for one hour. On a silpat-lined sheet pan, form eight circles of the tuile batter, about four inches in diameter. Place in the oven and bake until golden brown, about four minutes. Remove from the heat; place the tuiles into the ramekins and set aside to cool.

To assemble: Preheat the broiler. Arrange eight shallow baking dishes on a sheet pan. Place an equal portion of strawberries and rhubarb into each of the dishes. Spoon a portion of the creme anglaise mixture into each dish. Place under the broiler until lightly browned.

To serve: Place a baking dish on top of a larger, napkin-lined dish. Place a tuile filled with a scoop of asparagus ice cream to one side of the baking dish.

Trockenbeerenauslese No. 12, Ground Cuvee

Illmitz

Burgenland, Austria 1995