Star of India.

AUTHENTIC INDIAN RESTAURANT

301 N. Shackleford Rd., Suite C4

20 minutes from downtown Little Rock

Turnaround Time: One hour for the lunch buffet and about one hour and 30 minutes for dinner.

Impeccable, prompt, attentive and pleasant service is Star of India's trademark, Although the garlic naan bread battles for prominence at every meal.

Owner Sami Lal greets customers with an enthusiastic hand shake, a brimming smile and remembers customers' names as if to welcome them home.

"It is a blessing from Sachi Sarkar, the lord God; to remember names," Lal said, recognizing two in our party who dine there occasionally and even asking after another who wasn't present on this visit.

A first-time visitor r found the greeting intimidating but soon warmed to it.

From the moment patrons walk through the door, Lal is in control, clearly loves hosting and wants everybody satisfied.

"Business is excellent, and the people love it, and I love the people," Lal said. The restaurant, which seats about 80, is usually full for lunch. Lal proudly notes that the "buffet dishes are the same style as the dinner dishes."

And they are as delectable as the dinner dishes. Lal doesn't skimp on sauce, meat, cheese or flavor and he keeps the food fresh and hot.

The buffet featured vegetable pakora, mixed vegetable fritters; kachubar salad, cucumber, tomatoes, onions and green peppers with spices and lemon juice; raita, cool whisked yogurt with cucumber, potatoes and mint; lettuce and tomato salad with house dressing; naan, leavened white bread baked in the tandoor; tandoori chicken, marinated in yogurt, garlic, ginger and 'mild Indian herbs; chicken curry, boneless chicken in a creamy curry; star special pillau rice, saffron flavored basmati rice sauteed with peas, fruits; nuts and cheese; lamb biryani, basmati rice, lamb and spices; saag paneer, cheese chunks in a seasoned creamed spinach; chana masala 'Punjabi,' chick peas, 'potatoes and onions sauteed and spicy; mushroom matter, mushrooms and green peas' sauteed with brown onions and tomatoes; and desert kheer badami, traditional Indian rice pudding with milk, raisins and almond slivers, for dessert.

The buffet dishes were mild, but built to a nice warm glow, but never a sizzle. If the warm glow becomes a meltdown, the raita provided a perfect compliment and soothed the palate.

Visitors should sample the mango lassi, a blend of mangoes and yogurt over ice. The drink is sweet with a fruity, thick and bitter taste.

The highlight was the Indian masala tea, a combination of green codeman, black codeman, cinnamon and cloves that soothes the spirit.

The buffet for three with one soft drink, one mango lassi, three Indian Masala teas and a 15 percent tip came, to $37.70. Lal said that a dinner party will spend $15 each for wine and dinner.

Lal's favorite dish, and the most popular, is chicken tikka masala, diced tandoor chicken with tomatoes and herb sauce.

The majority of the food on the menu is mild, but laden with creamy textures that may upset sensitive stomachs. Those with sensitive stomachs should stick to items from the tandoor.

Or you could just ask Sami Lal. He'll happily steer you in the right direction.