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Springs eternal.


I always say, Proust and Batman--you need both!

Gianni Versace, 1994

WITH GIANNI VERSACE referring to Nietzsche and Proust in a recent interview, Karl Lagerfeld talking about Ovid, and Valentino speculating in The New Yorker that his obsession with the perfect tray is sick, it wouldn't be long before this bookish Jewesse wound up doing runway during Fashion Week. Indeed, it really happened. Lurking around the edges of the spring collections like a faint echo of last year's grunge moment, sensitive ears could detect an apocalyptic rumble in the flat belly of Fashion, a hankering demanding belchlike to be released: restive with its own perfection, Fashion needed to inoculate in·oc·u·late
v.
1. To introduce a serum, a vaccine, or an antigenic substance into the body of a person or an animal, especially as a means to produce or boost immunity to a specific disease.

2.
 itself against its own monotonous flawlessness with a homeopathic Homeopathic
A holistic and natural approach to healthcare.

Mentioned in: Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome

homeopathic,
adj
 supplement of "reality" in the form of "real people" models. Fashion-challenged by my dainty Jewesse frame, I fretted that I wouldn't show off J. Morgan Puett's spring collection to fullest advantage, but who am I to argue with someone who's inviting me to model? Indeed I wanted to ask for the invitation in writing, signed by two witnesses, but feared appearing indelicate in·del·i·cate  
adj.
1. Offensive to established standards of propriety; improper. See Synonyms at improper.

2. Marked by a lack of good taste; coarse.

3.
. If supermodels can write books, there could be a slight opening for me on the runway. No way was I gonna miss my microsecond One millionth of a second. See space/time and ohnosecond.

(unit) microsecond - One millionth (10^-6) of a second.
 before we're back to the usual diet of anorexic beanpoles.

Something strange was in the air during Fashion Spring, which occurred, as usual, around Halloween. (Fashion does Spring In fall and Fall in summer, like an ill relative who takes Jell-O for breakfast and cereal for dinner somehow to plate a perverse digestive tract.) "You're not going to believe who I saw in a beige Rolls-Royce near 57th Street!" quizzed my friend D.B., an emerging artist who makes "clothes as art." "Jenny Holzer!" I shot out. "No!" he declared, "Linda Evangelista!," triumphant, as if granted a special sign by gods of fabulosity through his personal sighting, right in midtown, of their earthly representative, a Brand Name Super model. Brand Name Super models are bigger than ever this year; the real-people thing only highlights the preternatural clothes-wearing skills of the pros, lest we get numbed to them.

At least half the fun of modeling consists in telling people about it. I proudly announced my new career option to one of my quote "friends": "You have to stop this!" he brayed. "The only way to end this fantasy definitively is to turn it to s--t!" I sagely replied, secretly hoping for some great tear sheets. Proust observed, through the character of the painter Elstir, that the only way to "cure" a daydream is to daydream more rather than less: "One must have a thorough understanding of one's daydreams if one is not to be troubled by them." Indeed I came to look upon my runway debut as an act of mental hygiene. On Week 30 of my "2 Weeks, No Flab" workout regime, I hoped for more--maybe a fashion score for the People of the Book?

In the fall of 1874, Stephane Mallarme's high school English students had a field day: "Mallarme, on ne fiche Same as microfiche.  rien dans sa classe; il ecrit tout le temps pour des journaux de modes!" That season the Symbolist sym·bol·ist  
n.
1. One who uses symbols or symbolism.

2.
a. One who interprets or represents conditions or truths by the use of symbols or symbolism.

b.
 poet single-handedly ghost-wrote a fashion mag, La Derniere Mode, cranking out prose-poems (under a drag nom de plume nom de plume  
n. pl. noms de plume
See pen name.



[French : nom, name + de, of + plume, pen.
) honoring this most material and most fleeting of realms as the privileged altar of the eternal: "What a miraculous vision, a tableau to dream about more than to depict, for its beauty suggests impressions analogous to the poet's most deep and ineffable ones!" One Imagines Mallarme after a long day at the lycee, his daily fashion-deprived "martyrdom," dreaming, upon creamy white pages, of tulle Tulle (tl, Fr. tül), town (1990 pop. 18,685), capital of Corrèze dept., S central France. Firearms and other goods are made there. Tulle was built around a 7th-century monastery. , groves, and quality chapeaux. While fashion is an effective aid for reverie, reverie is necessary for fashion consumers. There is no fashion reality without a fantasy frame. Before one garbs oneself in the "thing in itself," one must already have wrapped oneself in the fantasy, the libidinalized chunk of reality (represented by the ad or retail environment) supporting one's desire for the garment in question. Like Freud's garden-variety psychotic, every fashion dreamer retains libidinal contact with reality--as fantasy. Sharing Mallarme's enthusiasm for a nice outfit, what I lacked in his literary skill I would make up for in fieldwork. I prepared to enter the fantasy my fashion fate had dealt me.

Relentlessly rugged, with every detail including price tags picturesquely weathered, J. Morgan Puett J. Morgan Puett (born 1957) is a conceptual installation artist. Her childhood reminiscence of home life in rural Georgia flavors many aspects of her work, which straddle the lines of fashion, architecture, and fine art.  is a SoHo retail environment where Walker Evans and Dorothea Lange would have felt right at home spending the whopping sums their work would eventually command on the prebust art market. The clothes are beautifully cut upscale Depression-era style, with a fanciful haute couture line that does amazing things with wax. Everything is very raw, artfully embracing decay, natural fibers, and degeneration. Helena Bonham Carter--or anyone in a Merchant-Ivory production--seems to be the ideal target customer. Since one's insertion into fashion, this mute language of clothes, must be supported by a fantasy, I imagined myself fresh-cheeked, running free in sepia-and-ocher raw silk, a stray Jew in Room with a View. How ironic that my entree onto the scene of glamour would wind up in this Depression pastoral, described by one of my queenier friends as "a bit too Les Mis" for him. While I tirelessly pursue glamour in all its artifice, the universe sends me back my glamour message reversed in the form of the country look, an idyll more Grapes of Wrath than Ralph Lauren.

Ingeniously designed by Morgan, the store converts to accommodate a little stage and runway, charmingly draped with bolts of fabric to evoke the workroom work·room  
n.
A room where work is done.

Noun 1. workroom - room where work is done
room - an area within a building enclosed by walls and floor and ceiling; "the rooms were very small but they had a nice view"
 en deshabille. Two live chickens inspired the palette for this season's collection, "leghorn Leghorn: see Livorno, Italy.
leghorn

Breed of chicken that originated in Italy; the only Mediterranean breed of importance today. Of the 12 varieties, the single-comb white leghorn is more popular than all the other leghorns combined; the leading
"; they were installed on tasseled silk pillows in cages above the crowd. A fan of taxidermy taxidermy (tăk`sĭdûr'mē), process of skinning, preserving, and mounting vertebrate animals so that they still appear lifelike.  as well as of anything bee-related, Morgan rented two stuffed chickens to embellish the decor further and to corroborate the chicken concept. Behind the scenes on my big glamour day, my fashion-designer friend is busy easing the rented chickens out of their carton. Removing their bubble wrap, she lovingly intones, "Aren't they beautiful?" I forget I am disturbed by dead birds, and also my infelicitous struggle that day with water weight. (Let's face it--I was as bloated as Liz Taylor!) In perpetual motion, as trim and boyish as a country Coco Chanel, Morgan was an insanely supportive human fashion machine in beatific be·a·tif·ic  
adj.
Showing or producing exalted joy or blessedness: a beatific smile.



[Latin be
 white, eyeing every detail, telling everyone they looked hot, apparently radiant while claiming she was about to have a nervous breakdown.

To every Model-for-a-Day, makeup and hair are the best part. I arrived early, but my hopes for some last-minute liposuction Liposuction Definition

Liposuction, also known as lipoplasty or suction-assisted lipectomy, is cosmetic surgery performed to remove unwanted deposits of fat from under the skin.
 proved unrealistic. Still, my hair was done brilliantly by Bumble and Bumble with waxed cord gathering my tresses into little pigtails This article is about the hair style. For the connectors, see Optical fiber.
Pigtails (also known as angel wings and bunches, or Twin Tail(ツインテール/TsuinTe-ru) in Japan.
, evoking a kind of schoolgirl wood-nymph effect. Walking into the boutique unnoticed, I emerged a traffic-stopping eyeful eye·ful  
n.
1. A complete view.

2. One that is pleasing to the sight, especially an attractive person.

3.
 coiffed for a frolic Frolic - A Prolog system in Common Lisp.

ftp://ftp.cs.utah.edu/pub/frolic.tar.Z.
 in a wooded glade. Other real-people models, including Jane Pratt, the pathbreaking path·break·ing  
adj.
Characterized by originality and innovation; pioneering.
 former editress Ed´i`tress

n. 1. A female editor.
 of Sassy magazine, and Pat Hearn, the ever soignee art dealer, were transformed into inhabitants of a leghorn-hued country idyll, with salmon accents. There were real models too. We tried to ignore them.

My moment on the runway, darlings, went by altogether too quickly. Basking in the gaze of everyone, including Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune International Herald Tribune

Daily newspaper published in Paris. It has long been the staple source of English-language news for American expatriates, tourists, and businesspeople in Europe.
, upon Me, I idiotically retasted the narcissistic bliss of the Baby, the delightful snap of flashes adequately replacing the supportive gaze of the Mommy as I felt appreciated for the stunning feat of walking, breathing, and wearing clothes at the same time. Suzanne Vega and another of the real-people models indeed toted babies as props, while another, the writer from Allure, had a white pit bull.

Still aglow from my ultimate glamour day, which was rapidly embellishing itself in the darkroom of my brain, I alit a·lit  
v.
A past tense and a past participle of alight1.
 from my chariot, New Jersey Transit The New Jersey Transit Corporation (NJ Transit) is a statewide public transportation system serving the state of New Jersey, and Orange and Rockland counties in New York. It operates bus, light rail, and commuter rail services throughout the state, notably connecting to major . Meeting me was my photographer friend, who passive-aggressively wasn't there to take pictures of me. "I looked really hot!" I reported. A Jew-lover with a crush on a sort-of-well-known supermodel, D.B. was like, "Was Shalom there?" "No, there were no Brand Name Supermodels . . . but I looked really hot," I reiterated. She looked oddly disinterested. "And I've been discovered by Shaynah Models," I continued, "a division of Models of Zion, a covert international agency based In Milan specializing in the Jew market. Jenny Craig's people have also been in touch."

Just this week, my editor discreetly kvetched that the art world is "totally not having a glamour moment now." Years ago, fashion went to Hollywood or to the music scene for libido inspiration. Now everyone else is going to fashion, and fashion is going to art, maybe not for models but for inspiration in putting together a show. I've noticed a corollary trend in the fashion press: designers who want to talk about anything (TV, art, the rain forest) but Fashion, just as artists want to talk about anything but Art--testifying to some law of human nature in which everyone thinks what other people do is cool and meritorious and what they do is silly. "Each of us sees in brighter colors what he sees at a distance, what he sees in other people," said the Duchesse de Guermantes. When you start to see this with everyone, it begins to be a healing thing: if everyone thinks other people are doing the important stuff, maybe we all sort of are. I think being a fashion designer is cool. I like my new hair.
COPYRIGHT 1995 Artforum International Magazine, Inc.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1995, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Title Annotation:fashion modelling
Author:Lieberman, Rhonda
Publication:Artforum International
Date:Jan 1, 1995
Words:1583
Previous Article:Rachel Whitehead. (artist)
Next Article:VR the art world. (virtual reality)
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