Simple sweeteners.

WE ALL KNOW THAT FRUITS AND GRAINS should be our usual 'sweet' choice, but sometimes you just gotta give in to sugar. When the occasion calls for using sugar, you'll need to select the correct form for the desired results. You have many options, but this article will concentrate on a few of the most popular ones.

Vegan sugar can come from sugar cane, beets, dates, and other naturally sweet plants. Some vegan sugars are a bit darker than conventional granulated sugar and may be a bit coarser in texture. You can refer to the article on pages 15-19 of this issue of Vegetarian Journal for a rundown on vegan sugar.

DRY SWEETENERS

Vegan sugar, such as Florida Crystals or Sucanat, can be used as is to top cookies or pies right out of the oven. As the baked products cool, some of the sugar will melt, and some will remain as crystals. This creates a sweet, crunchy topping. If a fruit salad is not quite as sweet as you'd like, you can toss the salad, very frugally, with vegan sugar. For an old-fashioned and attractive side dish, appetizer, or dessert, sprinkle vegan sugar over a pink grapefruit half, a thick slice of fresh pineapple, or pitted fresh peaches. Place on a cookie sheet or broiler pan and broil for a minute until the sugar is melted. Serve hot and bubbly.

If you'd like to create your own vanilla sugar, gently slit a whole vanilla bean in several places and plunge it in the middle of a bowl or jar of vegan sugar. Cover and let it sit for several days, stirring occasionally. Vanilla sugar can be stirred into hot coffee, tea, or grain beverages or into soy or rice milk. It can also be used to lightly top pancakes, waffles, hot or cold cereal, yogurt, or sliced fruit.

POWDERED SUGAR

If a non-vegan baking recipe calls for 'sugar,' you can generally use any vegan sugar. If your recipe calls for 'powdered sugar' or 'confectioners' sugar,' you can create your own vegan version by grinding vegan sugar in a food processor, coffee grinder, or spice mill. If you have lots of time and muscle, you can place the sugar between sheets of waxed paper and use a hammer or rolling pin to grind it until smooth. The finished product should be the consistency of cornstarch.

Powdered sugar can be sprinkled by hand or placed in a spice-sprinkling canister. This gadget--which looks like a short, fire hydrant-shape can with a removable, perforated top--is available in most stores with kitchen supply areas, in large grocery stores, and online. They are inexpensive and should last a very long time.

Powdered sugar can be sprinkled alone or combined with ground cinnamon; powdered ginger; dried, ground orange zest; or your favorite spice. You can use powdered sugar in place of frosting to top carrot cake, gingerbread, zucchini bread, or cupcakes. Create a dessert pancake by topping hot pancakes with a thin layer of fruit preserves, sliced strawberries, and a sprinkle of powdered sugar.

VEGAN CHOCOLATE

There are many vegan chocolate bars on the market. Beyond eating chocolate, think about using it as a dessert ingredient. We tried some Terra Nostra Organic rice milk-based chocolate bars as a coating for chocolate-covered fruit. We broke the plain chocolate bars (not the ones with fruits or nuts) into small pieces and placed them in a microwaveable bowl. We added approximately 1/4-inch of water and microwaved until the chocolate seemed to become soft, approximately 45 seconds on HIGH for 1/2 cup of chocolate. This can easily be done on top of the stove, stirring while melting the chocolate. Stir the melted chocolate until it is smooth, and allow to cool for one minute.

While the chocolate is cooling, place your fruit of choice on a sheet of waxed paper or a non-stick cookie sheet. The fruit could be fresh, small whole strawberries that have been washed and patted dry, dried apricots or figs, dried pineapple or mango chunks, or (if you have a lot of patience) fresh raspberries. Gently dip each piece of fruit halfway into the chocolate, swift around to coat, and replace on the waxed paper or baking sheet. Allow to harden for approximately 30-45 minutes at room temperature before serving.

If you'd like to make a very fast fudge, melt approximately 1 cup of crumbled vegan chocolate or vegan chocolate chips, 1 Tablespoon of nonhydrogenated vegan margarine, vegan sugar to taste, and a touch of vanilla extract in the microwave or on the stovetop until the chocolate is melted. Stir very well to combine. Pour into a glass bowl, gift tins, or muffin cups, and allow to thicken, which usually takes at least an hour.

Quick Frostings

For special occasions, create a rich cake or cupcake frosting by combining 1/2 cup vegan margarine with 1/4 cup vegan cream cheese, 2 Tablespoons vanilla soy or rice milk, 2 teaspoons vanilla extract, and 4 cups powdered vegan sugar until very well blended. This will make a plain frosting, but you can spice it up with the following splashes and dashes:

* For a lemon frosting, add 1 Tablespoon lemon juice and 2 teaspoons lemon zest.

* For a chocolate frosting, add 3 Tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder.

* For a mocha frosting, add 2 Tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder and 1 Tablespoon instant coffee powder.

* For a green tea frosting, add 1 Tablespoon green tea powder and 1 teaspoon lemon zest.

This makes about three cups of frosting, enough to frost two 9-inch cakes or approximately 24 cupcakes.

By Chef Nancy Berkoff, RD, EdD, CCE