Shell game a member of the invertebrate.

SHELL GAME A MEMBER OF THE INVERTEBRATE class bivalvia, clams are also commonly referred to as mollusks. There are over 12,000 species of bivalves; about 500 live in fresh water with all others species residing in salt water. According to the dictionary definition, clams are "bivalves with equal-sized shells that are attached by two adductor muscles lying at opposite ends of their shells." Each has a powerful foot that extends from the shell; this appendage enables the clam to propel itself through the sand and assists it in burrowing into the sand at depths either just below the surface or as deep as two feet. Although normally found in shallow waters, some species of clams inhabit the Pacific Ocean at depths of more than 16,000 feet.

Early Americans enjoyed clams with the same passion as we do today, and polished clamshells served as currency (known as wampum) from the 1600's to the end of the seventeenth century. Although colonists used shells for trading with western Indians into the nineteenth century, their use as a medium of exchange eventually ended.

Depending on their variety, clams may be soft or hard-shelled. The edible portion normally consists of the muscles that open and close the shell, the siphon or neck (through which the bivalve takes in and purges water from its digestive system), and the foot. In general, the meat of the clam has the reputation of being sweet and chewy, although the flavor and degree of tenderness depend on its size and species.

For the most part, clams are caught in local waters. Easterners are privy to clams from the Atlantic while Westerners enjoy Pacific varieties. Although different varieties of clams abound, similar types of clams are harvested on both coasts. Dug from the sand at low tide or scooped from beds in deeper waters, many clam varieties are available all year round.

WESTERN SHORES

Common and widely available clam varieties from the Pacific Coast include geoducks, littlenecks, and Manila clams.

GEODUCKS (pronounced gooey-ducks) are large, soft-shelled clams. The shell size of this particular rectangular-shaped clam can be up to eight inches with its weight easily exceeding five pounds. The shells of a geoduck do not close completely due to a large siphon that extends from the shell up to three feet or more in length on a larger geoduck. Hunting for geoducks has become somewhat of a nighttime sport--practiced when there's a full moon and tides are at their lowest point. These clams make their presence known by squirting water into the air, and removing them from the sand sometimes involves the joint effort of two people - one pulling the siphon of the neck with the other actually digging the shell. The meat of this clam is often sliced into cutlets and fried while the siphon is often skinned and then ground in a food processor or chopper and used in chowders. Sushi can also be made from the siphon: it is blanched, peeled, and thinly sliced into this Asian-style delicacy.

LITTLENECK CLAMS, found on the Pacific Coast, actually belong to two different species. Native littleneck clams are found in waters from California to Alaska. Their Japanese counterparts--which at one point were introduced to western waters--can be found from California to British Columbia. The Japanese species of littlenecks has a slightly elongated shape with a purple adductor muscle scar. Native littlenecks have shells that are rounder and lack a purple scar. As they both have a tendency to be tough, they are best served in the same manner - - steamed with melted butter for dipping or added to a favorite pasta dish.

MANILA CLAMS are also referred to as Asari clams and are considered the most tender of western clams. The beauty of this clam is its versatility. Because it is small, tender, and sweet, it may be enjoyed on the half shell, steamed, or in brothy soups.

EASTERN SHORES

Favorites of the Atlantic include quahogs, littlenecks, cherrystones, and steamers.

OUAHOGS (pronounced ko-hogs) are the largest species of hard-shelled clam from the eastern region of the States. This particular variety of clam is typically sold according to size and can range from one and one-half inches to six inches across in length. Larger sized quahogs are also referred to as chowder clams as they can be tough and work best when cut up and added to chowders and stuffing. LITTLENECKS and CHERRYSTONES are not a distinct species; they're merely a smaller-sized quahog. Littleneck clams from the East Coast are the smallest quahogs sold and get their name from Little Neck Bay on Long Island, which was once the most popular source for the half-shell trade. Cherrystones are named after Cherrystone Creek in Virginia and can be enjoyed raw or steamed. They are also the perfect size for stuffing.

STEAMERS are soft-shelled clams that also have long siphons that protrude from their thin brittle shells. Typically about two inches in size, steamers are best served as their name suggests. When these types of clams are shucked, the meat can also be sauteed or deep-fried.

BICOASTAL RESIDENTS

RAZOR CLAMS are found on both coasts of the U.S. Appropriately named due to their razor sharp shell edges and similarity to the shape of an old-fashioned straight razor, this variety of clam is commercially marketed solely on the West Coast. Most often used in fritters due to its tough nature, the West Coast razor clam is chewy at best. East Coast razor clams enjoy different preparations and lend themselves perfectly to steaming as well as frying.

RELATED ARTICLE: CAN YOU DIG IT?

WHERE TO CLAM

EAST COAST

MASSACHUSETTS

Martha's Vineyard

lpswich

Nantucket

Sandwich

Scituate

Wellfleet

MAINE

Lincoln City

RHODE ISLAND

Westerly

NEW YORK

Shelter Island

MARYLAND

Isle at Wight

WEST COAST

CALIFORNIA

Manresa State Beach

Clam Beach, Trinidad

Fort Canby State Park

OREGON

Cacs Bay

Carlestan Bay

WASHINGTON

Hood Canal Beaches

Patlach State Park

Dasewallips State Park

ALASKA

Clam Gulch and Ninilchik Beach, Kenai

Kachemak Bay, Homer

CORNELIUS GALLAGHER

A NATIVE NEW YORKER, CORNELIUS GALLAGHER HAS A passion for cooking that evolved at an impressionable age: "I was twelve years old when I first got interested in cooking. My mother had to spend some time in the hospital, and my father was with her pretty much of the time. At that point, I had two younger brothers to watch after. So, my father bought me The Joy of Cooking, and I started cooking every night for my brothers with help from the book. I was lucky - - most of my friends in high school at that time didn't know what they wanted to do for a living - - I pretty much knew that cooking was my going to be my call."

His first true restaurant experience was an after-school job at age fifteen; he cleaned mussels, scrubbed pots, cleaned floors and was, in his words, pretty much "the kitchen guy." Upon graduating from The Culinary Institute of American in 1994, Gallagher embarked on his culinary career with stints at Restaurant Daniel, Lespinasse, and David Bouley's signature restaurant. He credits stages at El Bulli in Spain and L'Esperance in France as life-altering and humbling experiences that have profoundly influenced his thinking about food throughout the years.

When starting out in the industry, Gallagher became aware of the possible pitfalls of the inexperienced: "I think with myself, as with many other chefs, when you start out, you really don't understand how to use all the ingredients that are available to you. You use ingredients that you know, and your dishes are fairly simple. But, as you grow as a cook, you learn how to handle a wider variety of ingredients, and you tend to use everything at once. As a result, your dishes become overly complex. You eventually return to simplicity and understand that it's more about practicing a bit of restraint - - the process eventually comes full circle."

Although Gallagher is appreciative of his time spent working for some of the bigger names, he has always been conscious of his inner voice urging him to move on and learn something new from someone new: "A lot of people work for one chef for a really long time, and this was something that I made a point of not doing. I didn't want to be pigeonholed into being known as one of the "Boulud or Kunz guys." I did purposely work for some of these chefs for very different and specific reasons. I went to Kunz to learn spices [and] to Boulud to learn solid French flavor and how to make a fine dining business succeed in Manhattan. I went to Laurent Gras to learn technique and to Bouley to learn middle-range and medium-tone cooking. I like to think that I pulled some knowledge and wisdom from each of them. I know it sounds cliche, but when all is said and done, I do believe that it's all about the ingredients and using the best quality products available, I'm more keenly aware of this since my menus predominantly feature seafood. I've lived my whole life in Manhattan, and I think I've got a pretty good grasp of what people in this city like. First and foremost, the food has to be very tasty and great flavor is key. There has to be an excitement on the plate - - something that's not offered anywhere else. It's fun to tweak a known dish and take it in a direction that no one has before."

WAYNENISH

OPENING IN 1990 IN THE "CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS," March restaurant features food that appeals to its savvy urban clientele and highlights the seasonal fare that is representative of Chef Nish's multi-cultural upbringing. His intuitive culinary perceptiveness and sophisticated approach to food culminate in his presentation of world-class cuisine served in the heart of New York City.

When asked whether he considers New York City to be the most active center of the culinary world, Nish's thoughts on the topic reflect not only his strong emotions but also his logic: "My thoughts about this subject have always been--and this is not some sort of civic pride issue I'm dealing with--that New York has been on the leading edge of modern cuisine for many years for a few reasons. One, there are a lot of major industries that center in NYC. Two, it's a talent magnet. Three, it's the largest, most active urban area in the country. For those reasons alone, you've got most of what's going on in the arts, finance, and fashion all in one central location--and the culinary community is no exception. When I look at my own development as a chef, it was a very natural and honest one. My ethnic background, where I grew up in Queens, New York, and the time I grew up were instrumental in my development. A census report for the last two centuries showed that there were more than 180 separate ethnic cultures iden tified in that one particular area, which makes it unarguably one of the most ethnically diverse communities on the planet. I'm happy to say that growing up in such a culturally mixed area has only contributed to my city-based cuisine and inspiration."

What was once considered the Western standard model for a dish ten to fifteen years ago has now changed, a transformation for which Nish is eternally grateful: "Every dish that you looked at had a starch, a vegetable, and a protein on it with an inedible garnish of rosemary sprig or thyme sticking out of one of the items. I took it upon myself to turn my attention to the menu as opposed to the individual dishes, thereby being able to spread my ideas across the entire menu. Time and experience has also taught me to take a few chances, and I know my food is reflective of this. I've also gotten more sophisticated with my food and beliefs. I think that if you stay passionate, like an artist, your work will become simpler. Once one has learned how to pull the essence of what it is that you're trying to get across to your diners, it's no longer as complicated. When you see the new kids coming out of culinary schools--particularly those that are super ambitious and show a lot of promise--their food tends to be overw rought and complicated because they're trying to pour all of their ideas into each and every dish. I observed this probably about fifteen years ago and started to rebel against it. I felt that the food then was unnecessarily fussy. I liken it to this year's couture shows in Paris where models walk down the runway topless with springs and rubber balls on their heads--and other types of oddities. Two or three years from now, something from one of those fashion shows will find its way into a JC Penny in some shape or form."

Looking into the culinary crystal ball to see what the future holds ten years from now, Nish envisions his life in the industry virtually unchanged: "Essentially, I want to be doing the same thing. I don't foresee any huge changes in my future. I think that what I've developed to date is a refined cuisine that has a niche market in an upscale New York neighborhood, and I simply want to continue refining my food and my ideas."

Spanish Cockles with Hot Basil Dressing

(Serves 4)

CORNELIUSGALLAGHER

ingredients


For the cockles:
3 tablespoons Spanish olive oil
3 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
40 cockles
1/4 cup white wine
2 sprigs lemon thyme
1 small bay leaf
2 teaspoons white peppercorns

For the piquillo peppers:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 ounce cured chorizo sausage, diced
1 red pepper, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 yellow pepper; peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 small onion, peeled and thinly sliced
4 piquillo peppers, roasted, peeled,
  and seeded, tops and bottoms reserved
Salt and pepper to taste

For the coulis:
3 tablespoons reserved cockle liquid,
  strained and cooled
Reserved piquillo pepper bottoms
Salt and pepper to taste

For the basil dressing:
1/4 cup reserved cockle liquid
1 small garlic clove, peeled and smashed
1 tablespoon finely grated fennel pulp
2 springs thyme, stemmed
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns,
    inely crushed
1 tablespoon finely chopped basil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Grapeseed oil, as needed
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
8 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1/8 bunch parsley, fine julienned
1/8 bunch garlic chines, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons Spanish olive oil

directions

For the cockles: Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. In a saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until translucent. Add the cockles, white wine, lemon thyme, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Cover and place in the oven until all of the shells are open. Remove the cockle meat and discard the shells. Strain the liquid through a fine mesh sieve; discard the solids and set aside.

For the piquillo peppers: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. In a saucepan, melt the butter. Add the chorizo, red and yellow peppers, and onion and saute until the peppers are softened. Season and refrigerate until chilled. Remove the top two inches from the piquillo peppers and trim the bottoms. Place the peppers on a parchment-lined half sheet pan and fill with the chorizo mixture. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the coulis: In a saucepan, combine the reserved cockle liquid and piquillo pepper bottoms. Bring to a simmer and cook until soft. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve; season and refrigerate until chilled.

For the basil dressing: In a saucepan, bring the cockle liquid to a simmer. Add the garlic, fennel, thyme, and crushed peppercorns and whisk to combine. Add the basil; season and whisk to combine.

For the garnish: Preheat a deep fryer filled with grapeseed oil to 325 degrees. In a non-stick pan, add the Parmesan cheese and cook until golden brown and crispy. Remove from the heat and transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan to cool. Place in a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl. Fry the garlic in the hot oil until lightly golden. Drain on paper towels and immediately transfer to a small bowl. Add the parsley; mix to combine and set aside. In a small bowl, combine the garlic chives and olive oil.

To serve: Warm the cockles in the basil dressing. Ladle some of the coulis down the center of a rectangular plate and spread to create a thin layer. Spoon three small mounds of the cockles and dressing in the center of the plate. Place a stuffed piquillo pepper at one end of the coulis and a mound of Parmesan powder at the opposite end. Lay a demitasse spoon over the Parmesan powder and fill with garlic chips and parsley. Garnish the plate with the garlic chive oil.

Tokay Pinot Gris, Clos Windsbuhl

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

Alsace, France 2000

Escabeche of Geoduck Calm with Crispy Seaweed

(Serves 4)

Cornelius gallagher

Ingredients


For the seaweek:
2 cups water
1 Bosc pear, peeled and diced
2 leaves wakame, softended in cold
 water and thinly sliced lengthwise

For the geoduck clam:
2 quarts salted water
1 geoduck clam *
1/4 cup champagne vinegar
3 tablespoons sweet pea juice
1 teaspoon grated fresh wasabi
5 water chestnuts, finely minced
1 fresh Arbol chili, stemmed,
seeded, and finely minced
5 sprigs parsley, stemmed,
and thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

For the yellowtail tuna:
6 ounces yellowtail tuna, sliced

For the dressing:
1/4 ounce softened wakame
1 1/2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons water
1/2 tablespoon mirin
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon Maldon [R] flake sea salt **

* Geoduck clams are available through True World Foods at (908)
351-1400.

** Available through Salt works at [phone].

directions

For the seaweed: In a saucepan, bring the water to a simmer. Add the pear and cook until tender. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and place the pear in a blender. Puree until smooth and spread into four thin rectangles on a silpat-lined sheet pan. Set aside to cool. Place the wakame on top of the pear puree and place the sheet pan in a dehydrator overnight.

For the geoduck clam: In a saucepan, bring the salted water to a simmer. Add the geoduck clam and simmer until the shell opens. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Remove the clam siphon, discarding the inner clam and shell. Peel the outer membrane from the siphon and discard. Slice the siphon into thin strips and place in a non-reactive dish. In a saucepan, bring the vinegar to a simmer. Remove from the heat and pour over the clam slices. Set aside to marinate for one hour. Drain the vinegar from the clam and add the sweet pea juice, wasabi, water chestnuts, chili, parsley and sea salt and toss to combine.

For the yellowtail tuna: Lay a piece of plastic wrap on a cutting board and place the yellowtail slices in the center. Cover with another piece of plastic wrap and, using a mallet, gently pound into four thin, flat rectangles. Place in the refrigerator.

For the dressing: In a commercial grade blender, combine the wakame, vinegar, water, and mirin and puree until smooth. In a separate small bowl, combine the cardamom and sea salt.

To serve: Lay a slice of yellowtail on a plate and top with some of the dressing. Sprinkle with the cardamom salt mixture. Spoon a small portion of the geoduck clam mixture at opposite corners of the yellowtail and rest a strip of crispy seaweed diagonally across top.

Shiraz, Langhorne Creek

Killibinbin

South Australia, 2000

Rouget and Manila Clams en Colere

(Serves 4)

CORNELIUS GALLAGHER

ingredients


For the spinach cream:
3 ounces heavy cream, hot
2 ounces spinach, blanched,
 shocked, and squeezed dry
Salt and pepper to taste

For the turnip puree:
6 ounces chicken stock
1 medium turnip, peeled and diced
1 sprig sage, stemmed
3 tablespoons heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

For the rouget:
4 ounces spinach, blanched, shocked,
 squeezed dry, and chopped
12 Manila clams, roasted,
 chilled, and shucked
2 ounces chanterelle mushrooms
1 ounce Serrano ham, finely diced
1 teaspoon garlic puree
12 sprigs thyme, stemmed
4 rouget, scaled, spine, gills,
 and pin bones removed, leaving
 head and tail attached
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons unsalted
 butter
1/2 shallot, peeled
 and minced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the clams:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 shallot, peeled and minced
12 manila clams
1 cup white wine
5 sprigs lemon thyme, stemmed

Note: En Colere literally means "in anger." The fish is so "angry" that
it appears to be eating its own tail.

directions

For the spinach cream: Place the heavy cream and spinach in the bowl of a food processor and puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl; season and place over an ice bath.

For the turnip puree: In a saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer. Add the turnip and sage and simmer until tender. Using a hand-held immersion blender, puree until smooth. Add the heavy cream; mix to combine and season. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the rouget: In a bowl, combine the spinach, clams, chanterelle mushrooms, ham, garlic puree, and half of the thyme. Toss to combine and season with salt and pepper. Place the rouget, backside down, on a parchment-lined sheet pan and spoon a portion of the spinach mixture inside each rouget. With the rouget still on its back, thread the tail up through the stomach and mouth, so it appears that the fish is eating its own tail. In a saute pan, heat the oil and butter over low heat. Add the shallot and remaining thyme and saute for one minute. Place the rouget in the pan and cook, basting constantly with the butter mixture, until slightly firmed and heated through.

For the clams: In a saute pan, melt the butter. Add the shallot and saute until translucent. Add the clams, white wine, and lemon thyme. Cover and steam until all of the shells are open. Transfer the clams to a bowl and set aside. Reduce the liquid until it forms a glaze. Add the clams to the glaze and gently toss to coat.

To serve: Spoon a portion of turnip puree in the center of a plate and place a rouget on top. Drizzle the spinach cream around the plate and arrange the clams around the rouget.

Pinot Noir, La Combe d'Orveau

Domaine Anne & Francois Gros

Burgundy, France 2000

Surf Clam Chowder with Saltwater Foam

CORNELIUSGALLAGHER

(Serves 4)

Ingredients

For the surf clam chowder:
1 1/2 tablespoons Plugra[R] butter
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 parsnip, peeled and diced
1/2 rib celery, peeled and diced
1 clove garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 bay leaf
1/4 bunch thyme, stemmed
1 large surf clam, shucked, and diced *
1/2 cup fresh clam juice
1/3 cup grated Appenzeller cheese
2 tablespoons creme fraiche
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper Salt and pepper to taste

For the sorrel cream:
5 sprigs sorrel, blanched and shocked
1/4 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

For the saltwater foam:
1/4 cup salted water
3/4 tablespoon agar agar, softened in 1 1/2 tablespoons cold water
1/4 tablespoon unsalted butter, diced and chilled

For the garnish:
2 slices bacon, diced small Maldon[R] flake sea salt **
4 surf clam shells

* Surf clams are available through True World Foods at [phone].

** Available through Saltworks at [phone].

For the surf clam chowder: In a saute pan, melt the butter. Add the shallot, parsnip, celery, and garlic and saute until soft. Add the bay leaf and thyme and saute for two minutes. Add the clam and clam juice. Simmer until the clam is cooked through, about two minutes. Discard the bay leaf; transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Add the cheese and puree until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan over medium heat; add the creme fraiche and whisk to combine. Add the cayenne pepper and season. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the sorrel cream: In a small bowl, combine the sorrel and heavy cream. Using a hand-held immersion blender, puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Using a wire whisk, whip the mixture to soft peaks; season and set aside in the refrigerator.

For the saltwater foam: In a saucepan, bring the salted water to a simmer. Add the agar agar and whisk until combined. Bring back to a simmer and remove from the heat. Using a hand-held immersion blender, add the butter in several stages until well-combined. Continue mixing with the immersion blender until frothy.

For the garnish: In a saute pan, render the bacon until golden brown. Remove from the heat and strain, reserving the bacon and fat separately.

To serve: Cover a small plate with sea salt. Pour a portion of the chowder into a surf clam shell and place in the salt. Drizzle the chowder with the reserved bacon fat, sorrel cream, and saltwater foam. Garnish with the reserved bacon.

Sauvignon Blanc, La Grande Cuvee

Pascal Jolivet

Burgundy, Franca 1999

Cassolette of Mahogany Clams with Turbot Cheeks

(Serves 4)

CORNELIUS GALLAGHER

ingredients

For the cassolette:
3 tablespoons black peppercorns
6 sprigs lemon thyme
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
2 pounds Mahogany clams, rinsed and thoroughly dried
1 1/2 cups white wine
6 ounces unsalted butter
20 turbot cheeks *
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons basil puree
3 tablespoons dill puree
3/4 teaspoon chive puree
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Saffron threads

* Available through True World Foods at [phone].

directions

For the cassolette: Tie the peppercorns and lemon thyme in cheesecloth to make a sachet. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until translucent. Add the clams, wine, and sachet. Cover and steam until all of the shells are open. Remove the clam meat and set aside, discarding the shells. Simmer the liquid until reduced to half a cup. Add the butter and whisk to combine. Return to a simmer and cook for two minutes. Add the turbot cheeks and simmer until cooked through. Add the clam meat; remove from the heat and let stand for thirty seconds. Add the lemon juice, basil, dill, and chive purees and season.

To serve: Divide the cassolette into individual sized saucepans. Garnish with saffron threads.

Chassagne-Montachet Premier Cru ADC, Lus Champs Gain

Jean-Mark Morey

Burgundy, France 1999

Manila Clams with Chorizo and Poquillo Peppers

(Serves 6)

WAYNE NISH

ingredients


For the clams:
2 bunches parsley
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, peeled
  and chopped
12 cloves garlic, cooked in oil
  with salt to taste
4 piquillo peppers, roasted,
  peeled, and julienned
1/4 pound chorizo, thinly sliced
2 cups chicken stock
2 pounds Manila clams *

For the garnish:
6 slices sourdough bread toasts
Extra virgin olive oil
Micro cilan tro sprigs **

* Manila clams are also knownas Japanese littleneck clams.Available
through ExecutiveFish at [phone].

** Available through The Chef'sGarden at [phone].

directions

For the clams: Wash the parsley and roughly chop with the stems on. In a saucepan filled with boiling water, blanch the parsley for 10 minutes. Drain and let cool. In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until lightly caramelized. Add the garlic, peppers, chorizo, and chicken stock and simmer for five minutes. Strain the mixture over a large saucepan and reserve the vegetables. Bring the stock to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced to one cup. Add the clams; cover and simmer until all of the shells are open. Return the vegetables to the saucepan and add the parsley. Stir to combine and cook until the vegetables are just warmed through.

To serve: Place a sourdough toast in a soup bowl. Spoon a portion of the vegetables and clams with the cooking liquid into the bowl. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and garnish with the cilantro sprigs.

Bodegas Dios Baco Fina Sherry

Jerez, Spain

Fried Hamaguri and Steamer Clams

(Serves 6)

WAYNE NISH

ingredients

For the clams:
12 hamaguri clams, shucked, juices reserved *
Clarified butter, as needed for frying
Water chestnut powder, as needed
Eggs beaten with water, as needed
Panko bread crumbs, as needed
1 1/2 cups lobster stock
12 steamer clams
12 large shrimp, shelled
6 lobster claws, blanched and shelled
6 lobster tails, blanched and shelled
6 ounces salmon belly, trimmed, skinned and diced
3 tablespoons minced tarragon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the garnish:
Tarragon sprigs

* Hamaguri clams are also known as top neck clams. Available through
Yama Seafood at [phone].

directions

For the clams: In a large saute pan, heat the clarified butter to 365 degrees. Goat each of the clams in the water chestnut powder, beaten eggs, and panko bread crumbs. Fry the clams in the clarified butter until golden brown and transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Set aside, keeping warm. In a large saucepan, add the lobster stock and reserved hamaguri clam juice and bring to simmer. Add the steamer clams; cover and simmer until all of the shells are open. Remove the steamer clams and set aside, keeping warm. Add the shrimp and cook until desired doneness. Remove the shrimp and set aside, keeping warm. Add the lobster pieces and gently warm through. Remove the lobster pieces and set aside, keeping warm. Add the salmon belly and simmer until just cooked through. Remove the salmon belly pieces and set aside, keeping warm. Simmer the cooking Liquid until reduced to one cup. Add the tarragon and butter and simmer for two minutes. Return the salmon, shrimp, and lobster meat to the saucepan and tos s to combine.

To serve: Place a serving of the cooking liquid on a square plate. Arrange the salmon, a lobster claw and tail, and the shrimp in the cooking liquid. Place the steamer clams and fried hamaguri around the plate and garnish with the tarragon sprigs.

Albarino

Bodegas Salnesur Condes de Albarei

Rias Baixas, Spain 2001

Mahogany Clams with Summer Salad

(Serves 6)

WAYNE NISH

ingredients

For the clams:

1/4 pound pancetta, diced
1/4 pound chanterelle mushrooms
1/4 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed
1/4 pound honshimeji mushrooms, trimmed and separated *
2 pounds mahogany clams **
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons oloroso sherry
6 tablespoons assorted chopped herbs (chervil, basil, tarragon,
parsley, and chives)

For the salad:

6 cups micro salad mix ***
1/2 pound haricots verts, trimmed, blanched, and cut into 1-inch
pieces
12 baby carrots, trimmed, peeled, blanched, and halved lengthwise
6 baby pattypan squash, blanched and halved
18 grape tomatoes, halved
Sea salt and pepper to taste

* Available through D'Artagnan at [phone].

** Available through Executive Fish at [phone].

*** Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

directions

For the clams: In a large saucepan over low heat, add the pancetta and cook until tender. Add the mushrooms and cook for five minutes. Add the clams; cover and steam until all of the shells are open. Remove the mushrooms and clams from the saucepan and set aside, keeping warm. Add the olive oil, mustard, sherry, and herbs and whisk to combine. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the salad: In a large bowl, combine all the salad ingredients with the clams and mushrooms. Add the sherry and herb mixture; season and toss to combine.

To serve: Place the clams and salad mixture on a square plate.

Tahbilk Marsanne

Central Victoria

Australia 1999

Top Neck Clam Chowder with Puff Pastry Domes

(Serves 6)

Chardonnay Solato Tenimenti Ruffino Tuscany, Italy 1999

WAYNE NISH

ingredients


For the clam chowder:
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 onion, peeled and minced
1/2 cup dry cream sherry
1/4 pound soppresata, diced
8 fingerling potatoes, peeled and diced
1 cup heavy cream
36 top neck clams, shucked and diced, 18 half shells reserved
4 tablespoons assorted minced herbs (chervil, basil, tarragon, parsley,
 and chives)

For the puffed pastly domes:
Reserved clam shells, cleaned
2 sheets puff pastry, rolled thin and cut in to 18 4x4 -inch squares
Eggs beaten with milk

For the garnish:
Rock salt, as needed
Mache

directions

For the clam chowder: In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Deglaze with the sherry. Add the soppresata and potatoes and cook until the potatoes are tender. Add to a simmer and cook for the clams and herbs and warm gen Set to infuse for one hour, keeping warm.

For the puff pastry domes: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Spoon equal amounts of the clam chowder mixture into the reserved clam shells. Brush the edges of the puff pastry squares with the egg and milk mixture. Stretch a puff pastry square tautly over each of the clam shells filled with the clam chowder mixture and press the edges together to seal underneath the shell. Brush the puff pastry with the egg and milk mixture. Bake until the puff pastry is golden brown, about 15 minutes.

To serve: Cover the bottom of a long rectangular plate with rock salt. Set three of the clams on top of the salt and garnish with the mache.

Chardonnay

Solata Tenimenti Ruffino

Tuscany, Italy 1999

Cockle Ravioli with Tomato Consomme

(Serves 6)

WAYNENISH

ingredients

For the cockle ravioli:
2 pounds New Zealand cockles *
1/4 pound bacon, diced
2 cups tomato consomme
1/2 cup fermented Chinese black beans **
48 wonton skins, cut into 3/4 x 3/4-inch squares
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the garnish:
Micro red Russian kale ***

* Available through Executive Fish at (718) 522 - 0889.

** Available in most Asian markets.

*** Available through The Chefs Garden at (800) 289 - 4644.

directions

For the cockle ravioli: Open one pound of the cackles, reserving the meat and juice separately. In a large saucepan over low heat, add the bacon and cook until tender. Add the tomato consomme, black beans, and reserved cockle juice. Simmer the mixture until reduced to I cups of liquid. Set aside, keeping warm. Place the wonton skins on a flat work surface. Using a 1 1/2-inch ring mold, cutout 48 rounds and transfer half to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Place some of the reserved cockle meat in the center of each and brush the edges with water. Set the remaining wonton rounds on top; gently press the edges to remove any air bubbles and seal the edges. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli and boil for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat; strain, and set aside keeping warm.

To finish the dish: Add the remaining cockles to the tomato consomme; cover Add the butter and ravioli and toss to combine.

To serve: Place the cockles and ravioli in a soup bowl with the cooking liquid and garnish with the kale.

Lodock Blanc

Domaine Edmund Cornu

Burgundy, Frante 1998