Sensual chemistry: this year's In-Focus feature at In-Cosmetics Paris took Aphrodisia as its theme, with some participating exhibitors developing sensual fomulations especially for the show.

THE CONCEPT of Aphrodisia is that smells, textures and tastes can enhance beauty and stimulate sexual desire. In fact, this is the premise upon which the entire fragrance and cosmetics industry is built.

In recent years, the beauty industry has become bolder in its approach to using sex as a way to attract customers. Examples include Jessica Simpson's Dessert range of "lickable, kissable" shampoos, moisturizers and lipglosses, along with natural aphrodisiacs such as chocolate used in a wide range of cosmetics and toiletries products.

Many of the 17 suppliers of ingredients and technologies that took part in the In-Focus Aphrodisia project during In-Cosmetics used desire as the innovation stimulant to present original formulations and product concepts.

Cognis GmbH & Co.KG/Laboratoires Serobiologiques explored ancient cosmetic rituals in order to demonstrate how myths, rituals and sexuality were almost inseparable in antiquity. The scents of herbs and spices, skin ointments, tempting fruits and erotic poems were once used to create a highly charged atmosphere of sensual anticipation and mystical participation. Cognis concocted Sweet Addiction, a softening body wash formulated with honey and wheat to "satisfy hungry skin and stimulate bittersweet addiction." A skin-warming oil called Passionate Skin was designed for an aphrodisiac massage.

Greentech SA and Strand Cosmetics Europe presented three formulations designed to arouse desire and enhance sex appeal. The "sex appeal" plant extracts by Greentech included pomegranate, which throughout history were associated with Aphrodite as the symbol of fertility and the focus of legends of love. Saffron (Crocus sativus) was praised in China as a sexual stimulant and in Rome the plant was dedicated to Ceres the Goddess of fertility. Pepper is described as the irreplaceable ingredient of love rituals, the vegetable with a suggestive shape that instills burning desire.

Symrise GmbH & Co. KG presented fragrance and texture innovations designed to demonstrate the chemistry of seduction. Symrise has worked on understanding how our bodies interact with fragrance and discovered that men's and women's Natural Scent (NS) is recognizibly different in odor character. It believes the interaction of fragrances and our NS has relevance in the fine fragrance and personal care area and presented these findings as a paper on The Chemistry of Seduction at the In-Focus Aphrodisia conference.

For the Aphrodisia feature, Symrise presented four concepts inspired by four basic sensations associated with touch: warmth, coolness, wetness and dryness. After Sun Shimmering Lotion for Hair & Body (warmth) was formulated with natural extracts of passion flower and hibiscus for a heady floral composition. The formulation features SymRelief active ingredient and Symcap encapsulated fragrance in a smooth lotion to soothe and calm the skin. Champagne Sorbet Anti-Age Skin Cream (coolness) has a crushed ice texture to add coolness to the skin. The formulation includes a number of new technologies, including IBR-dormin and SymGlucan which are proven to increase the skin's moisture levels, firmness, elasticity and smoothness. Moisturizing Fragrance with Hydrascent Technology (wetness) evokes the sensuality of the steam spa and uses the new Hydrascent technology to provide skin moisturisation. Instant Moisture Hydrating Cream {dryness} contains botanical extracts of cactus flower and aloe vera, plants known for their ability to flourish and bloom in extremely dry conditions.

Cosmeticom International Ltd's Apothecary of Love featured plants which symbolize desire and eroticism or can be used as natural aphrodisiacs. Examples included Vervain, one of the Druid's most sacred plants also known as the enchanter's herb. It was used in the preparation of love potions. Lovage or love parsley was used in herbal medicine in the 14th century. It was included in love potions to ensure fidelity. Yarrow was used in a drink by Navajos two hours before lovemaking. Muira puama or potency wood is a Brazilian herb used as a male tonic and reputed to increase libido.

Skin on Skin?

Cosmetic lingerie was the theme of Croda Group's product concept, which focused on sensual touch. The tailor-made collection was designed to enhance desire and passion in the boudoir. Croda's ideas for Aphrodisia included Body Beautiful, formulated with Crodarom Velvet Flower, a downy plant with a velvety touch which feels like lingerie on the skin. Luscious Lips contains Maxi-lip lip plumper and Seatons Pomegranate seed oil, specifically mentioned in the Kama Sutra. Perfect Physique, aimed at men, uses Crodamol STS, an ester that is said to be superior to silicone. African pepper is also included for its stimulating properties, which is known as an aphrodisiac and sexual behavior stimulant. Also for men is Fresh Face, which is formulated with white truffle, a tantalizingly sensual ingredient and Depline which is an ingredient that minimizes hair re-growth.

Solabia has been working on the concept of Second Skin for the past three years and its beauty recipes for In-Focus Aphrodisia included active body products to slim, firm and tone. Extracts of guarana Guaraslim was a key ingredient in its Up & Round buttock-firming cream and XXslim, a foaming, exfoliating gel.

Swiss company Rahn AG launched Vitamin-L, an innovative collection of formulations using its portfolio of natural based active ingredients. Rhythm Booster is a moisturizing cream containing CC Idebenone 50%, which is said to be more effective than Q10; Heartbeat Stimulator, an ice-cold crackling spray and Look into my Eyes, Baby eye gel, containing Phytodermina Lifting for an immediate lifting effect. Cushion Spray incorporates Passionflower Distillate, Pomegranate HG and Perfume Pomegranate 67012C for a sense of well-being.

Laboratoires Prod'Hyg demonstrated its body massage candle designed to combine the properties of a warming massage oil and a fragrant candle. Once melted, the "wax" can be massaged onto the skin without danger of burning.

In-Cosmetics is the leading trade show for the global beauty industry. In-Cosmetics 2008 will be held April 15-17, Hall 1, Amsterdam RAI, The Netherlands. More info: www.incosmetics.com

Imogen Matthews

Consultant to In-Cosmetics