Seeds of summer: recipes made with heirloom tomatoes capture the essence of summer.

Tomato seeds as a gift. Now that might just make the perfect present for the person who loves to garden, really loves summertime tomatoes, and appreciates a little history.

Heirloom tomatoes are quite the chic plant to cultivate these days. I was drawn to these unusual looking vegetables initially because of their unique beauty and fresh taste, and found that they are the essence of summer and can be enjoyed right off the vine or simply tossed with a light vinaigrette for a perfect summer salad. Heirloom tomatoes can be defined in many ways. Some say they are true heirloom tomatoes if the seeds were cultivated around 1945, which marks the end of World War II when growers had time for gardening. Others are adamant thay they must be over 100 years old. Everyone will agree, however, that the tomato must be hardy enough to withstand the particular climate, be brave against insects, have never been subject to any type of genetic engineering, and produce an abundance of fruit with exceptional taste. They are nurtured, treasured, and then handed down from one family member to the next generation.

One of the oldest and best known varieties of heirloom tomatoes is called the Mortgage Lifter. The story goes that a man named Charlie owned a radiator-repair shop in the 1940s. He grew and sold so many of these pink and very sweet prized tomatoes that he was able pay off his mortgage and retire from his repair shop. The seeds are still marketed under the same quirky name today.

The Australian Great Oxheart is a large heart-shaped tomato with very few seeds. The lore of this variety begins in Australia when a poor farmer sent his friend in Kentucky a few simple heart-shaped seeds as a token of his love. The recipient was so moved by his gesture that she decided to send them on to The Victory Seed Company for others to enjoy.

Other amusing names for heirloom tomatoes include Big Rainbow, Hillbilly, Cherokee Chocolate, and Black Kim. The Black Kim variety ranges in color from dark red to brown and was thought to have originated on the "Island of Kim" in the Black Sea in the Ukraine.

The Brandywine variety dates back to 1885 and comes in black, red, brown, and yellow and is an old Amish heirloom named for the Brandywine Creek in Chester County, Pennsylvania.

Now that you have received your heirloom tomato history lesson, if you are craving a great tomato, but still are not in the mood for gardening, Adams Produce in Jackson will be happy to order you a mixed case of these beauties for eating and sharing. Heirloom tomatoes are extremely tasty, colorful, tangy yet sweet, and will work in most any recipe that calls for a fresh tomato. Just dice them to preserve their beauty and fresh taste. The Spicy Shrimp Salsa with Heirloom Tomatoes is just right for an appetizer and the Summer Spaghetti is perfect for a simple supper paired with a mixed green salad and crusty French bread. The Heirloom Tomato Tart is as tasty as it is beautiful. Relish these summertime treats while you ponder the life of the tiny seeds that were possibly a gift or a treasure of someone long ago. They really do symbolize the essence and taste of summer, and sometimes love and money!

ROSEMARY PUFF PASTY TARTS WITH HEIRLOOM TOMATOES AND GOAT CHEESE

1 package frozen puff pastry
4 sprigs of fresh rosemary, finely chopped
1 egg, beaten well
1 tablespoon cream
6 ounces fresh goat cheese
4-6 heirloom tomatoes, sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Thaw puff pastry in the refrigerator according
to package directions. Preheat
the oven to 400 degrees. Gently roll one
piece of the puff pastry out on a lightly
floured board. Place pastry in a rectangle
shaped tart pan or directly on a cookie
sheet, pinching edges up to form "sides."
Sprinkle 1/2 of the chopped rosemary over
the pastry and gently press in. Mix cream
with egg and brush over entire tart surface.
Spread softened goat cheese on tart
and lay tomatoes on top, overlapping
and alternating with different colors.
Brush the tomatoes with olive oil and
remaining rosemary, and season with
salt and pepper. Chill tart for 20 minutes
in the refrigerator. Remove and place in
hot oven for 20 minutes, until the pastry
is golden and puffy. Serve immediately.
Yield: 4 servings

HEIRLOOM TOMATO
CORNBREAD SALAD

5-6 heirloom tomatoes, different varieties,
  seeded and chopped
6 cups torn lettuce such as bibb or green leafy
2 cups arugula or spinach
1 Vidalia onion, chopped
Crispy Cornbread, broken into bite-size pieces
  and lightly toasted (recipe, opposite page)
Buttermilk-Lime Dressing (recipe, opposite page)

Peel tomatoes and cut in half. Chop roughly.
Add lettuces and toss with the toasted cornbread
and onion. Drizzle dressing over all and
serve immediately. Yield: 8 servings.

SUMMER SPAGHETTI WITH HEIRLOOM TOMATOES,
CRUMBLED FETA CHEESE, AND FRESH BASIL

8 ounces spaghetti
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for tossing the pasta
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 pound heirloom tomatoes, chopped
3 tablespoons fresh flat-leaved parsley, chopped
2 tablespoons capers, drained
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
15 basil leaves, thinly sliced
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about I cup)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in
spaghetti and cook until al dente, 8 to 9 minutes. Reserve a
cupful of the pasta cooking water, then drain the spaghetti,
drizzle lightly with olive oil, toss to coat. Set aside.

Meanwhile, heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet
over medium heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and
saute for about 1 minute, stirring so the garlic doesn't brown.
Add the spaghetti, tomatoes, parsley, capers, vinegar, and basil,
and season with salt and pepper. Place the skillet over
medium-high heat; add enough of the reserved pasta water to make
the pasta slippery, and cook for about 2 minutes, tossing the
spaghetti to combine all the ingredients, until warmed through.
Serve warm or at room temperature, topped with the crumbled feta
cheese. Yield: 4-6 servings.

CRISPY CORNBREAD

1 tablespoon lard or unsalted butter
1 1/2 cup cornmeal
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 large egg
1 1/2 cup buttermilk

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Grease
a 12-inch skillet with the lard or butter
and place in hot oven.

In a large bowl, sift the dry ingredients
together. In a separate bowl, whisk the
egg until frothy and then add the buttermilk.
Add the dry ingredients and mix
thoroughly. Melt butter and whisk into
mixture.

Carefully remove hot skillet from
oven and pour the batter in, spreading
evenly. Return pan to oven and bake for
15 minutes or until the top of the bread
is golden brown. Remove from oven and
let cool. Cut the cornbread into 1 inch
cubes and place on a cookie sheet. Return
to oven and lightly toast till crispy.

BUTTERMILK-LIME DRESSING

1/2 cup buttermilk
5 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon honey
1/2 cup finely basil, minced
1/2 cup finely green onions, chopped
1/4 cup parsley, finely minced
1/2 teaspoon salt

In a small bowl, whisk ingredients together
until thoroughly combined. Yield:
1 1/4 cups dressing

SPICY SHRIMP SALSA WITH HEIRLOOM TOMATOES

2 large heirloom tomatoes, chopped
1 pound medium shrimp, cooked and chopped
l sweet purple onion, diced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely chopped
2 green onions, chopped
Juice of 2-3 limes
3 tablespoons of Tony's Creole seasoning mix
Salt aim pepper to taste

Place all ingredients in a medium bowl and season with salt
and pepper. Refrigerate for 1 hour to allow flavors to blend. Serve
cold with fresh tortilla chips. Yield: 6-8 servings.

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE

VINAIGRETTE

2 tablespoons shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 to 3/4 cup olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients together in a glass
bowl and let stand for at least 10 minutes.

SALAD

1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled
2 pounds assorted heirloom tomatoes
  of all sizes and colors
1 cucumber, chopped
8 basil leaves, chopped

Cut the larger tomatoes into bite-size
pieces and leave smaller ones whole.
Combine the tomatoes, feta cheese, cucumber,
and basil leaves in a bowl and
toss to mix. Chill until ready to serve.

Add the vinaigrette to the tomato
mixture and toss to mix well. Season
with more salt and pepper if needed.
Yield: 6 servings.

For more information on growing your own heirloom tomatoes, you may contact The Seed Savers Exchange at 319/382-5990 or The Tomato Growers Supply Company at 941/768-1119.

Adapted from The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook 

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG CAMPBELL