Secret eats.

WHERE LOCALS GO FOR GREAT DINING, FROM FRENCH TO MEXICAN TO GOOD OLD AMERICAN

EATING OUT DOESN'T have to mean dumping three figures at the latest four-star foodie haunt. In fact, usually all we want is a friendly, comfortable--and reasonable--place in which to take refuge after a long day at the office, when we're too tired and hungry to battle supermarket lines and face a cold stove. So we asked scores of Angeleans--from the throbbing arteries of the Valley to the wide-open Big Orange--for their local favorites, not realizing that most people consider such information as confidential as their age, weight and income. But with a lot of wheedling, we finally got them to fess up. The result is the following neighborhood-by-neighborhood compendium of pet hangouts.

DOWNTOWN

La Serenata di Garibaldi, 1842 E. 1st St., 213-265-2887. The favorite Mexican spot of anyone who's eaten here, La Serenata has top-cabin seafood. The presentations are, well, maybe not quite on par with those well-known wallet wreckers, but everything looks artistic and tastes great. Included are soup or salad and quesadillas. The blackboard lists lengua ($9.95), though they're inevitably out. The shrimp in cilantro sauce ($16.50), however, are always wonderful--joined like Siamese twins, so watch out for the toothpicks. And the spicy fresh sea bass ($13.95), with chipotle sauce and rice and surrounded by a ribbon of shredded carrots, is an adventure. Open Monday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., till 10:30 Friday and Saturday, Sunday from 10 a.m. Beer and wine. MC, V.

SILVERLAKE

Mi Habana, 2926 Rowena Ave., 213-661-2995. Inflation has not crossed the threshold of this archetypal six-table hole in the wall. Richard Gould, the owners' family friend, has contributed two original paintings, and there's a cute little patio out back. If you're a victim of the recession, these prices won't make you slide into a deep depression. The pork leg steak ($6.25), consisting of succulent sliced roast pork, is superb, as is shrimp in a gentle, creamy, cilantro-flecked chile sauce ($10.49). The famous Cuban chicken in garlic sauce ($7.25) has no gravy but is imbued with the bulb's fragrance and should be the national bird of the Garlic Festival. The nightly blackboard special, which comes with a salad, is a mere $5, but if you're really feeling flush, there's paella ($28.50 for two). Everything comes with white rice and soupy black beans; be sure to mix 'em together, Cuban style. Open Tuesday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday 1 to 9 p.m. Beer and wine. No credit cards.

New York Company Bar & Grill, 2470 Fletcher Dr., 213-665-1115. A smart Manhattan atmosphere--catering to an interesting, well-dressed and, to be specific, largely gay clientele--can be had in two chic rooms, one narrow and cozy with a fireplace, the other sleek, sophisticated and subtly lit with a photomural of the New York skyline. Nightly fresh fish ($13.95), such as salmon with dill sauce, veggies and rice-orzo mix, are not for big fressers. From the Upper East Side, there's chicken breast stuffed with seafood ($12.95); Wall Street selections include filet mignon ($15.95); from Harlem, there's a ragin' Cajun chicken ($10.95), with spices hotter than a jazz riff; and from Little Italy, there's pasta, veal and scampi ($9.95 to $14.95). Desserts stay closer to home and come from the local La Mousse. The chefs make their own ice cream in peanut butter, apple, banana-walnut and other enticing flavors ($2.25). But if you're headed for the nearby Colony Theater, you better alert your waiter. Ours introduced himself three times, then service stalled like the 405 on a rainy morning. Lunch Tuesday to Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner Sunday to Thursday 5:30 to 10, till 11 Friday and Saturday. Sunday brunch buffet. Cabaret entertainment. Full bar. AE, DC, MC, V.

HOLLYWOOD

Bohemian Garden Bistro, 5917 Franklin Ave., 213-463-5354. The inhabitants of Beachwood Canyon and all who cherish memories of Greenwich Village flock to this stretch of Franklin, which sports the Tamarind Theater, a bookstore and several little restaurants. The attraction here is an Israeli chef who puts out bargain-priced Mediterranean-style food, such as a sampler called Mediterranean delight ($7.50), consisting of stuffed grape leaves and lamb strips sauteed with garlic, turmeric, olive oil and pine nuts; a generous seafood salad ($7.25); and chicken schnitzel ($7.50), aka Tel Aviv schnitzel--as well as international pastas, fresh fish and nightly specials. On my visit, the item of the day was gently curry-flavored chicken breast with creamed spinach ($8.75), served with baked potato or rice pilaf and perky vegetables. Excellent brown bread is baked daily by an old Russian master baker. Sit out front so you can observe the fascinating sidewalk action. Open daily 11 a.m. to midnight. BYOB. All major credit cards. Closed Friday.

Off Vine, 6263 Leland Way, 213-962-1900. Their neighbors love them! Those being the show-biz crowd from the Doolittle, the Pantages and the West Coast Ensemble, not to mention the heavy-hitting record-industry types who frequent this historic bungalow, which was once surrounded by orange groves. You always see a famous face or two before or apres theater inside its sharp, airy interior, out on the porch or in the trellised garden. Dishes are L.A. contemporary, some slightly fruity and bizarre: chicken with peach-tarragon sauce ($12.95), spicy turkey breast with pineapple-mint salsa ($14.95) and a decoratively presented chicken roll ($15.95) with orange-fennel cream, stuffed with spinach, Montrachet cheese and walnuts. The meaty lamb chops ($17.95) have an accompaniment more to my personal liking, a fragrant mint pesto. Entrees come with a vegetable stir-fry and vegetable-confetti rice. Easy walking distance to theaters. Open for lunch weekdays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner Monday to Saturday 5:30 to 11, Sunday 4:30 to 10. Sunday brunch. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V.

LARCHMONT

Rosebud, 125 N. Larchmont Blvd., 213-463-2814. Hancock Park families have adopted this citizens' cafe as one of their favorites, and so will you. Glamorous movie-star portraits deck the walls, and lots of used brick adds warmth. Chef Ken Barnosky is the star backstage, turning out eclectic cuisine whose time is now. His crab cakes ($8.50) wear a different sauce nightly--on mine, creamy pesto, but he may be in a soy-curry-butter or black-bean mood on yours. Sea scallops in a trio of sauces ($17) are accompanied by a corn-and-tomato-filled tostada shell, and the sliced turkey breast has shiitake-mushroom lasagna ($12) alongside. Open Tuesday to Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Cabaret entertainment. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V.

WEST HOLLYWOOD

Caioti, 2100 Laurel Canyon Blvd., 213-650-2988. The only reason those ruggedly individualistic canyon dwellers venture from their homes is to follow the garlic-scented trail that leads to one of Ed Ladou's legendary pizzas ($8.50 and up). This, after all, is the man who taught Wolfgang everything he knows on that subject. There's barbecued chicken with smoked gouda, lamb sausage with grape leaves and goat cheese, all with enviably thin bottoms and voluptuous tops. You can start off with such noshes as bacon-wrapped grilled shrimp ($8.50). And, of course, you can do an entree number, such as moist-as-a-kiss salmon ($13.25) with charbroiled veggies and mashed garlic potatoes. Almond-roca cake is reminiscent of a marjolaine--a splurge at $6, but you only live once. Rustic, pubby, convivial atmosphere complete with sheltered patio. Oh, and the mural on the inside door of the ladies' could pass for a fusion of artists Georges Seurat and van Gogh in second grade. Terrific service. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., till 11:30 Friday and Saturday. Beer and wine license pending. AE, MC, V.

Gardens of Taxco, 1113 N. Harper Ave., 213-654-1746. Eating here is like dining at a friend's house--except, of course, they slip you a bill at the end. Still, it's only $13.95 for a five-course meal, a dollar extra if you order the shrimp. And there's no menu; Senor Frank Romero, in his mellifluous, south-of-the-border accent, explains his homestyle food. The quesadillas are great, and the unique margarita pie, with cheese, guacamole and meat sauce, goes down almost as easily as its namesake libation. The chicken a la crema floats in a sea of cheese-tomato sauce, rich and refined as old money. Shrimp in cilantro sauce is a coup de cuisine. For dessert, there are bananas Rio Frio. You're even treated like company--right down to a complimentary after-dinner sherry. Open for dinner Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday 4:30 to 11, till midnight Friday and Saturday. Beer, wine and margaritas. All major credit cards.

PICO/LA CIENEGA AREA

Anna Maria Ristorante, 1356 S. La Brea Ave., 213-938-8787. This typical mamma-papa restaurant enjoys a loyal clientele. Residents from the nearby Park La Brea consider it their second kitchen. And the regulars don't read the menu but rather let owner Danny Di Nardo "perform" what's on special. "Seafood alla pescatore," he says, closing his eyes, "fresh mussels, clams and scungilli--and calamari from San Pedro, which I clean and chop." Then, waving his arms, eyes turned heavenward, he adds, "steamed in white wine, with tomato for color, hot red peppers for kicks, and served over a bed of pasta." There's pollo veronese and veal alla imperiale ($14.95 apiece), each recited like an operatic aria and as ample as a diva's bosom. Appetite much bigger than your bank account? Opt for lasagna ($6.95). For an extra $3, you can add soup, salad, ice cream and coffee. Open Tuesday to Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 4 to 10. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V.

Dale's Bistro, 361 N. La Cienega Blvd., 310-659-3996. If you lived in Paris, Dale's would be a close replica of your neighborhood bistro, with its bentwood chairs, artsy clientele and changing contemporary paintings. Owner Dale Payne, who has cooked at Spago and Bistango, now creates for himself--and you--angel-hair pasta with his original melange a trois: shrimp, chicken and andouille sausage that get along swimmingly in a spicy tomato cream ($11.50). Filet of pork stuffed with pine nuts and spinach ($12.50) in a raspberry-vinegar reduction is lean and rare as roast beef, served with wild-rice pilaf and the most resilient ratatouille this side of Provence; and the roast chicken with herbs and grainy mustard sauce ($10.50) will be the best thing you've tasted all week. On every table, there's butcher paper and crayons, in case you want to send the chef a little billet-doux. Open for lunch weekdays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner nightly 6 to 10:30. Beer and wine. AE, CB, DC, MC, V.

Shanghai Diamond Garden, 9401 W. Pico Blvd., 310-553-0998. This corner spot always looks as if it's closed, but you can bet there are three swift head chefs woking away in the kitchen. Food magically appears within moments of ordering, a boon to famished chopstick twirlers. Mushu chicken ($7.25) has plenty of crunch, thanks to lots of bamboo shoots and a parchment-thin pancake, and the orange beef ($11.50) is a dead ringer for sweet-and-sour pork. Mongolian beef ($7.50), sliced thin in a dark, not-too-spicy Chinese wine sauce is a real treat. "Spicy" scallops with perfect broccoli florettes ($9.75) has a touch of oyster sauce, wine, garlic, many water chestnuts and flecks of scarlet but is not feverishly hot. Spiced eggplant ($6.50), with or without ground pork, is excellent, tingling with ginger. Surprisingly, nothing here requires asbestos gums. They love to customize menus, so make your requests known. Open Sunday to Thursday 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., till 11 Friday and Saturday. Full bar. AE, MC, V.

Andre's, 8635 Wilshire Blvd., 310-657-2446. Now catering to its second generation, Andre's features nostalgic Continental cuisine that triumphantly bypasses the kiwi and goat-cheese eras. Even the decor may again be fashionable soon. The lazy Susan is loaded with marinated artichokes and mushrooms, herring, pate and various salads--all you can eat, and some do eat it all. Then it's a choice of soup or salad, plus a dish of fettuccine verde. But wait--you haven't had your entree yet. Chicken saute sec ($14.50), frog legs Provencale ($16.50), grenadine of beef ($16.75) . . . could you wish for more? (Yes, the doggie-bag concession--the portions are huge.) Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner nightly 4 to 11. Full bar. All major credit cards.

CULVER CITY

Bamboo, 10835 Venice Blvd., 310-287-0668. The only thing wrong here is the name, which implies Chinese food when, in fact, owner Jose Mendoza is a cousin of the famous Toribio Prado of Cha Cha Cha fame--renowned for Caribbean cuisine. He has opened a modest Latin cafe that will appeal to those who glory in tiny ethnic discoveries--and we are legion. There's lively taped music, and you can admire the chef's artwork on the walls even before you taste what emanates from his kitchen. Try the Caribbean shrimp ($11.75) in fresh tomato sauce jazzed up with "spices"--the specifics are classified. Even better is the grilled Yucatan chicken breast in exciting Indian black pepper and beer sauce ($8.75), which elicits a long, slow, sensual burn as it stimulates your every olfactory gland. Entrees come with vegetable-flecked rice and black beans, plus your choice of whipped potatoes or fried plantains. (Take the latter.) Open daily for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner nightly 5:30 to 11. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V.

SAN FERNANDO VALLEY 

Caffe Zaretti, 8856 Corbin Ave., Northridge, 818-701-5066. When you find this off-the-boulevard treasure, you'll begin to understand why everyone's favorite food seems to be Italian. Owner-host Giancarlo Zaretti, formerly of Pontevecchio in Santa Monica, offers Provini veal with porcini mushrooms and other accoutrements, several chickens and a subtle, lemon-butter baby salmon topped with marinated red peppers (a mere $10.95 each), all served with homemade pasta--not to mention focaccia, salad with creamy Italian dressing and freshly ground parmesan and homemade soup. The high ticket is osso buco, Milanese style, in light tomato-herb sauce ($11.95). They even provide a tiny fork, so you can get the marrow out of the buco (hole) in the osso (bone), which every Italian mamma urged her children to do before the word cholesterol was invented. Simple, folksy decor is clearly the theme here, with bookshelves, dishes and a stuffed elk's head with a bib that says "I Love Pasta." Open for lunch Monday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner nightly from 5 to 9:30. Beer and wine. All major credit cards.

Chez Nous, 10550 Riverside Dr., Toluca Lake, 818-760-0288. In spite of its size (cozy it ain't), this is a romantic spot with flickering candleglow and live guitar melodies. Take a look around the white, verandalike room, and you may even spot a movie star. The chicken roule appetizer is the most unique menu item, stuffed with spinach, mushrooms and mozzarella and accompanied by a mound of arugula, over which you might pour honey-mustard vinaigrette and create a bonus salad. The rest is fairly standard issue, albeit nicely done. Among the entrees, I recommend scampi ($18), marinated overnight in olive oil, garlic and Old Bay spices--resulting in a smoky, mesquite flavor--and served with fettuccine and vegetables. Feel like a steak? The New York ($16.75) has all the prerequisites and arrives, sliced across the grain, with fried mushrooms and pasta or fries. Fresh fish is offered nightly. Since the place started on its road to success as a French bakery, dessert is de rigueur. Their apple tart, a sweet deal at $3.50, may move you to take some home. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner weekdays from 7 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., till 11 Friday and Saturday. Sunday brunch. Full bar. AE, CB, DC, MC, V.

Il Mito, 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818-762-1818. Iranian-born chef Michael Fekr is playing it safe with a Northern Italian menu, but his food has a certain exotic mystery that packs 'em in. Don't try to dine leisurely, hear the wine breathing or linger over another espresso. His carpaccio ($8.50) reposes under a mound of fresh artichoke hearts and paper-thin parmesan, with a hint of truffle oil and an avalanche of parsley. And the veal scaloppine ($15.75), permeated by pungent porcini, shiitake and oyster mushrooms and served with spinach, is like tasting this old warhorse for the first time. The rack of New Zealand baby lamb ($16.95) comes alive with, of all things, a horseradish sauce that makes the mint jellies of the world turn green with envy. Two demerits for the pricey Italian wine list, though. Open weekdays for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner Monday to Thursday 6 to 10, from 5:30 Friday and Saturday, till 9:30 Sunday. Full bar. AE, MC, V.

Silver Grill, 17239 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818-784-4745. Tucked into an upscale shopping square, the Silver has an all-white interior with myriad Tivoli lights cleverly wound around ceiling sprinkler pipes and the trunks of banana plants. Hometown habitues, however, prefer to dine on the pretty patio. If you crave old-fashioned minestrone, try the tortilla soup ($3.45), because that's what it resembles. They have more ways to make a chicken than a randy rooster--everything from burgers ($6.95) to a breast basted with ginger and garlic ($13.95). And they do a rare, almost beefy, ahi tuna ($15.95), brushed with lemon-pepper or homemade salsa and served with steamed veggies and a potato, first baked, then grilled. Among the desserts, tarte tatin is much in demand, but I'd rather ride down the road to ruin with tiramisu ($4.95). Sherry, port and 18 wines available by the glass. Open for lunch Monday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., dinner Sunday to Thursday 5 to 10, till 10:30 Friday and Saturday. Beer and wine. CB, DC, MC, V.

MARINA DEL REY

Cafe del Rey, 4451 Admiralty Way, 310-823-6395. The hottest new restaurant to capture the fancy of Marina high rollers (it is a bit pricey) well deserves its acclaim. Anthony Miller manages the stylish front, and Paris-trained chef Katsuo Nagasawa graces the kitchen. Nagasawa is a master of Japonais-style cooking, which intermarries the complexities of French, the freshness of California and the artistry of Asian cuisines. Cream of kabocha soup ($4), made of pureed Japanese pumpkin with floating potato threads, or grilled rabbit ($8) in filo dough, beneath a lacy crown of shredded vegetables are just two of the eye-popping beginnings. Alaskan halibut, cradling shrimp and scallops ($19), is served with okra so crisp even okra haters love it and Nagasawa's shredded signature leek-shallot-garlic garnish. Even the rib-eye steak ($21) won't bore you--tender and lean, it has a biting good peppercorn sauce and potatoes mashed with a dab of horseradish. Congenial service, chic decor, great view, well-chosen wines, including Domaine Mumm's Blanc de Noir ($29). Open for lunch Monday to Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner Sunday to Thursday 5:30 to 10:30, till 11 Friday and Saturday. Sunday brunch. Full bar. All major credit cards.

VENICE

Siam Best, 2533 Lincoln Blvd., 310-827-8977. The first thing you notice is that some fast-talking artificial-flower seller must have scored a big commission. Nevertheless, the menu's a hoot: Chicken Cupcake, the Spirit of Ginger and Dear Calamari. The Crazy Mussels ($8.25), stuffed with spicy green chiles, are perfect, and the Eight Angels ($5.95)--a mild melange of meat and veggies--has at least 10 of the little darlings. But the Fantastic Catfish ($8.50) is not and seems more like something left over from the last oil spill. And the Broccoli Superb ($4.25), whose roots are more Cantonese than Thai, is if not "superb," at least most satisfactory; the garlic-pepper squid ($5.75), on the other hand, in tender little dreadlock curls, is superb. But those seeking that familiar Thai burn are advised to request more fire in everything. Open Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday 4:30 to 10:30. Beer and wine. All major credit cards.

SANTA MONICA

Gilbert's El Indio, 2526 Pico Blvd., 310-450-8057. This busy cantina decorated in Mexican high tack is a haven for south-of-the-border foodies but will find favor--big time--with folks who prescribe margaritas for migraines, backaches and other stress-related symptoms. Be prepared to wait--but, trust me, it's worth it. The Extra Super Mule burrito ($5), an industrial-size tortilla rolled around beef or chicken, beans, avocado, cheese and so on, is a handful--make that two handfuls. Calamari steak ($8.25), tender and delicately crumbed, tastes so much like abalone only another member of that endangered species could tell the difference--muy delicioso, with silver-dollar-size potatoes and salad. On weekends, there's birria ($7.95), Mexican-style leg of lamb in an aromatic sauce of wine, cumin, tomatoes and garlic. The cerveza comes with a specimen jar if you're too refined to drink out of a bottle. And on the tables are the best pickled carrots this side of the Rio Grande. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., till 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Full bar. No credit cards.

PACIFIC PALISADES 

Caffe Delfini, 147 W. Channel Rd., 310-459-8823. For that ultimate tete-a-tete, try this positively captivating place, with romantic lights, ultracomfy rattan chairs and spiffy service. Run by three enterprising young Italians, Delfini achieves remarkable success with just a smidgen of a menu plus three nightly specials. The secret is uncomplicated, "clean" food sans sauces and caloric baggage. Fish is merely brushed with olive oil and herbs and broiled. And it certainly works well. Pollo di petti ($11.50), a chicken breast as flat as a flapjack, crisp along the edges and served with a chopped tomato salad with fresh basil and golden-brown diced potatoes, does the trick. No heavy-handedness in the pastas, either. Penne Siciliano ($11), with eggplant, bell peppers and tomatoes (do give it a sprinkle of fresh parmesan), will make you feel instantly healthy. Therefore, having supped so lightly, go ahead and sin a little later on in the evening . . . Open for dinner Monday to Saturday 6 to 10, till 9:30 Sunday. Beer and wine. MC, V.

SOUTH BAY

The Spot, 110 2nd St., Hermosa Beach, 310-376-2355. If you see any particularly healthy-looking people frolicking at the beach this summer, perhaps they frequent this casual little "spot." Strictly vegetarian, this is what we used to call "hippie food"--tofu, sprouts, beans, and with all those vegetables, these people certainly don't have to worry about a gas shortage. But the walnut-mushroom loaf ($7.95) is mighty tasty, with crisp broccoli. And the tofu "steamers" ($7.95) are a passel of perfectly steamed vegetables with savory bits of baked tofu seasoned with tamari sauce and ground fennel, with the crunch of almonds and melted cheddar over brown rice. Everything comes with soup (this night an ambrosial split pea) or salad. And the dressing doesn't resemble any of those good-for-you concoctions--it's vivid and creamy, with pureed avocado, sour cream and spices. Reward yourself with an oven-fresh oatmeal-coconut cookie ($1.25). Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Beer and wine. No credit cards.

The Admiral Risty, 31250 Palos Verdes Dr. West, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310-377-0050. For more than a quarter century, this pioneer dinner house has weathered South Bay aerospace layoffs and many trendy eateries. Shell lights strung across ceiling beams and a breath-taking view nourish the soul, and seafood dishes tease the palate. Start with their famous chockful-of-clams chowder, samples of which are ladled out to hundreds of admirers annually at the Torrance Gourmet Food & Wine Festival, or toss your own green salad. Bring your appetite. The seafood brochette ($17.95) has two skewers of fresh fish, plump scallops and big shrimp. The Mississippi catfish ($16.95; broiled, poached, grilled or Cajun--your choice on all nightly fish specials) is a big daddy. And bring money, too. Chicken runs around $15, but most of the seafood floats between $18 and $20. Good wine list and a ship-shape crew. Open for dinner Monday to Thursday 5 to 10, till 11 Friday and Saturday, Sunday 4 to 9:30. Sunday brunch. Full bar. All major credit cards.

Musha, 1725 Carson St., Torrance, 310-787-7344. This fascinating discovery, a magnet for an Asian clientele from the neighboring cities of Gardena and Carson, proves that sushi and sukiyaki do not run the gamut of Japanese. They call their cuisine Tokyo city food; you may christen it Asian tapas. The daily menu has more than 30 items in bold Japanese characters and small translations. There's takana rice ($3.80; not translated, but it's sixth from the bottom at the back of the menu) with bits of Japanese pickles. Sliced chicken roll is a beautiful mosaic, with colorful veggies, stir-fried mushrooms and asparagus--it reminds you of Chinese food. Sliced, rare beef tongue, chewy but flavorful, has a decided Korean influence, and the Korean-style octopus kimchee ($5.80), with daikon radish, carrots, cukes and red-chile flecks, is wonderfully fiery. By contrast, the grilled squid is totally bland. Lots of fun. Open for dinner Monday to Saturday 5:30 to 11, till 10:30 Sunday. Sake, beer and wine. MC, V.

Raffaello, 400 S. Pacific Ave., San Pedro, 310-514-0900. The steady stream of customers from Palos Verdes serves as ample testimony to the popularity of this thriving ristorante. Pretty in pink, with the kind of reception and service usually reserved for heads of state, it's named after the owner's father, who is part of a duo that cruises the room singing, playing the accordion and banging on a tambourine every weekend. A real conversation stopper! Bruschette on homemade french bread and romaine salad welcome you promptly, followed by chef Antonio's Italian specialties and side dishes of pasta and fresh vegetables. Buttery scallops in wine and curry sauce, veal in the styles to which we've become accustomed, fresh fish and chicken are all mouth-watering ($12.95 to $16.95). If the osso buco is on special--baked con amore for two hours in red wine and veal stock, with braised carrots and celery--don't miss it. And the porcini-mushroom risotto is second to none, from (818) to (714). Open for lunch weekdays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner nightly 5 to 10. Full bar. MC, V.

Pine Avenue Fish House, 100 W. Broadway, Long Beach, 310-432-7463. Long Beach Opera devotees picked this New York-style fish house, situated nicely within walking distance of the convention complex, as their choice for light fare before heavy arias. For a rare, off-the-mainstream catch, try grilled escolar ($15.95). An unabashed delight, it looks like a thick slice of sea bass-white, moist and silky--and comes with your choice of rice, pasta, new potatoes or fresh vegetable. The cioppino ($18.95) twice won the blue ribbon at the San Pedro Fisherman's Fiesta, and since yours truly was one of the judges in 1990, I can highly recommend it. Outfitted with bib and crab crackers, spoon and tiny fork, you can troll in the deep of the tomato-based, bell bepper-spiked, herb-scented broth and glean Dungeness crab, little-neck clams, calamari and much more. It leaves nothing to be desired, except, perhaps, a finger bowl, for which one must ask. Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., till 3 Saturday and Sunday; dinner Monday to Thursday 4 to 10, till 11 Friday and Saturday, till 9 Sunday. Full bar. All major credit cards.

GLENDALE/PASADENA

Mi Piace, 25 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 818-795-3131. What's brightly lit and always packed? Mi Piace (pronounced mee peeyahchay), whose European coffeehouse atmosphere--and now, adjoining bakery--has been a hit from day one with the youngish, hip crowd. The food is Pasadena-italian. Even the garlic atop the focaccia is politely toned down. The regular menu is fairly standard issue, consisting of veal, pasta, pizza and chicken. Leading the pack is chicken Mi Piace ($9.50), nicely tender chunks mingling with red and green bell peppers and mushrooms. For the nightly specials, chef Robert Chavis likes to get a little more eclectic, as in halibut wrapped in savoy cabbage and surrounded by luscious red-bell-pepper cream ($13.95). Pastry master Takis Markoutsis' chocolate cannoli ($4), filled with chocolate chips, is irresistible. Open daily 11 to 11, Friday and Saturday until 1 a.m. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V.

Tep Thai, 207 W. Wilson Ave., Glendale, 818-956-8626. Small, homey and discovered, judging by the hundreds of business cards beneath the glass tabletops. The beef salad ($3.95) will open every pore in your body and clear your nasal passages for good. Equally powerful is squid with chiles and red and green peppers ($4.95). To soothe your savage tongue, go with the Siamese vegetable medley ($3.95) and fried bean threads ($4.75). Then it's back to the burn, with the smashing panay chicken ($4.95), a currylike blend of coconut milk, chile paste and mint leaves, and prikking pork ($4.75) in a dark ginger sauce. Don't be put off by the owner's obvious attitude problem. She thaws out like a snowflake when she sees how much you love the stuff. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Beer and wine. MC, V.

ORANGE COUNTY

Gustav's Jagerhaus, 2525 E. Ball Rd., Anaheim, 714-520-9500. Everybody--not just local Germans--frequents the hunter house to partake of thrifty, old-world dishes. It has the trappings of a Bavarian Bierstube, with family photographs, antique violins, shelves of steins and pewter plates--mementos of six generations of innkeepers. The yodeling tapes are at a discreet decibel, and the service is ultrafriendly--they'll even let you sample if you're vacillating among the 18 side dishes, from which you can select two. Paprika schnitzel ($8.75) is terrific in a light sauce of mushrooms, bell peppers and pimientos. The cucumber salad is authentic (not sweet), the home fries with onions wunderbar. There's sauerbraten, rabbit and beef goulash, and for adventurous souls, the fun of do-it-yourself rock cuisine ($9.25 to $15.50), wherein a hot granite square is brought forth for you to cook an assortment of vegetables and meats. Their red barbecue sauce is not the ideal dip, so also ask for some of the homemade salad dressings. And only a dummkopf would miss the apple strudel ($3.25) mit real whipped cream. Open Monday to Friday 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., from 8 Saturday and Sunday. Beer and wine. CB, DC, MC, V.

Newport Landing, 503 E. Edgewater (Balboa Peninsula), Newport Beach, 714-675-2373. When Balboa Island cooks have the day off, locals take a 25-cent ferry ride and congregate at their favorite nautical haunt, just a few steps from the Landing in the old Fun Zone. And it's just like being aboard ship--royal blue-and-white decor, comfortable seats, upper-class seafood and no Dramamine needed. Get launched with broiled, bacon-wrapped oyster brochettes with toasted pecans and ginger-cilantro dip ($8.95), rather than the scallop and tough, little shrimp ceviche ($6.95). The nightly fresh-fish combo ($19.95) is truly a gem--this night, fresh Alaskan halibut with capers and lime butter and salmon with bearnaise sauce--accompanied by stir-fried veggies as crisp as an ocean breeze and rice with almonds and green peas that will have you saluting every morsel. If your ship has already come in, indulge in the ne plus ultra California abalone ($29). Desserts come from L.A.'s La Mousse; the windmill cake ($4.95) will blow you away, and for bargains, visit their Upper Deck or dock between 5 and 6:30 p.m. for early-bird dinners. Oyster bar open 11 to 11. Open for dinner nightly 5 to 10. Sunday brunch. Full bar. All major credit cards.