Second guessing your garlic: you've pursued bright green or purple heirloom tomatoes, obscure microgreens and pedigreed livestock for your menu--but do you care where your garlic comes from? Can you afford to look beyond that big plastic jug of peeled cloves, and if so, how much of a difference can it make to use heirloom or exotic varieties of garlic in the finished dish?

To garlic farmer Chester Aaron, there's a night-and-day difference between exotic varieties and what is commonly called 'commodity' garlic. Aaron, who is also a writer and professor of English at St. Mary's College of California, grows approximately 90 varieties of garlic on his farm in Occidental, in the northern part of the state. Aaron has hosted comparative garlic tasting events for several years, in an attempt to educate cooks and consumers about the flavor differences among garlic varieties.

"I did a tasting in New York about ten or twelve years ago," says Aaron. "I had all the stalks available, different leaves of different thicknesses and colors, and sample bulbs of all different sizes, with different shapes and varying numbers of cloves. A woman whom I recognized as an international authority on food--I won't mention her name here--came through with three chefs and said to me, 'Come on, this is a scam. Garlic is garlic.' I said to her, 'Would you say the same about apples, tomatoes or grapes? Just taste.' She tasted everything while the chefs stood there snickering, then turned to me and said, 'It's true. They are different. I had no idea.'"

Gilroy, California is the self-proclaimed "garlic capital of the world," home to such mega-producers as Christopher Ranch, and, since 1979, the site of the nation's largest garlic festival. These days, though, thanks to a persistent garlic fungus in the nutrient-robbed soil, rock-bottom pricing and a loophole in U.S. trade law, most of the garlic sold in the United States has been grown in foreign soil. China grows two-thirds of the world's garlic, while California is currently responsible for just two percent.

China has been the particular focus of legislation designed to prevent "dumping," in which exporters introduce garlic to the U.S. market at prices significantly lower than their stated production costs. At the urging of American farmers, federal trade officials agreed to levy a 377 percent duty on imported garlic in 1994. Under pressure from free-trade advocates, officials revised the ruling a year later, to lower tariffs on "new" shippers who were not involved in the original investigation. Foreign shippers have had to merely form new companies in order to avoid the tariffs, thereby freeing themselves to continue dumping their product into the U.S. market. Accordingly, the volume of Chinese garlic in the U.S. market has increased more than ten-fold since 2000, forcing California garlic farmers to sell off vast tracts of land in order to survive. Since 2001, Christopher Ranch has put 40 percent of its garlic fields out of commission.

Aaron says that China, along with fellow exporters Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Ecuador and Mexico, are all using pesticides and herbicides banned in, and inherited from, the United States. "There aren't enough inspectors at the borders to check all the garlic that comes in from around the world, and the chances are that what you buy in most markets has been heavily sprayed," says Aaron. He recalls happening upon a bushel basket of purple-skinned garlic in a local organic grocery a few years ago. A shop clerk told him it had been organically grown in Monterrey, but he recognized the "grower's" name as an importer who sells Mexican garlic. Aaron bought a bulb and passed it along to a chemist friend at Berkeley. A few days later she called to tell him that the supposedly organic garlic contained several varieties of chemicals banned in the U.S. A representative from the Food and Drug Administration, contacted for this story, reports that there are no instances on record of garlic shipments from Mexico being turned away because they've contained banned sprays, which neither confirms nor refutes Aaron's claim. "The best advice I can give is to buy from a reputable farmer or grow your own," says Aaron.

Several American chefs report supplementing their commodity garlic with specialized varieties grown by their local farmers. Morgan Brownlow, executive chef of clarklewis in Portland, Oregon, buys forty to fifty pounds of specialty garlic per week when it's in season. He likes the Bavarian Rocambole garlic, a hardneck variety, grown by an uncle of his in nearby Vernonia, as well as the German Porcelain and purple Italian varieties from Groundwork Organics.

"For me, it's about getting a better quality product," says Brownlow. "The commodity stuff, it can have an off aroma, and lately the cloves have been getting smaller and smaller, and sprouting more quickly. When you're dealing with something that's so fresh and direct from the ground, like a local farmer's garlic, you don't have those issues."

Heirloom garlic's aesthetic and emotional appeal is one big reason that Andrew Sutton feels it's worth the extra expense. "The Spanish Roja we use will definitely roast out a lot prettier. I think it has a lot of value in setting the mood for the cook," explains Sutton, the executive chef at Napa Rose in Anaheim, California. "The major thing is being authentic to a dish or region. If you're making paella with Spanish Roja garlic, it can really cement a feeling of outhenticity." Sutton finds that commodity garlic has a sharp, acidic bite, an observation echoed by Paul Virant of Chicago's Vie restaurant, who says, "The major difference is the harshness factor. I think a lot of times, the commodity stuff you buy has been harvested a long time ago, and the garlic flavor is there, but it tends to be sharper and slightly bitter. If you're doing an aioli or even a marinara, you have to be careful, because it can really show through, and even mask the other elements of the sauce."

Bill Telepan, who recently opened Telepan restaurant in New York, values Rocambole garlic for its slightly sweet flavor, and for a mildness that makes it possible for him to chop the garlic and add it raw to a sauce. Telepan says that it's worth it for him to pay as much as a dollar per bulb for heirloom garlic, as opposed to a dollar or less per pound for commodity garlic. "If I'm paying the extra dollar, I will certainly let the customer know that we're using something special, and hopefully they'll be able to tell anyway, when they taste the product."

Garlic is grown in two main varieties: softneck and hardneck. The "neck in this case refers to the center scape that, in the hardnecks, rises among the plant's leaves, terminating in a flower full of sterile seeds. Garlic scapes, whose flavor is a mild variant of the cloves, can be snipped from the immature plant and used in place of garlic or scallions in cooking. Softnecks tend to have a much longer shelf life and demand less labor, space and time, making them the obvious choice for virtually all of the world's commercial garlic trade. To their credit, hardnecks are said to be more flavorful, and exhibit more variation in size, number of cloves, flavor and intensity.

Hardneck varieties include Rocambole, a richly-flavored, moderately hot garlic with light reddish-brown cloves; Porcelain, which exhibits neatly symmetrical, plump and thin-skinned cloves and a hotter flavor than Rocambole, and Purple Stripe, whose name is a clear reference to the brightly-colored skin that surrounds the bulb. Purple Stripe is a good garlic for cooking, because of the way it retains its flavor in the face of heat, according to Chester Aaron, author of The Great Garlic Book (Ten Speed Press 1997).

Among softneck garlics, the best-known variety is Artichoke, which Aaron says is the easiest to grow and store, with its thick, multi-layered skin and easy-peeling cloves. California Early and California Late, both Artichokes, represent the majority of the garlic grown in (and imported to) the United States. Silverskin, counted among the hottest garlics, is the one most-often used for braiding, thanks to its long, flexible leaves and tightly-wrapped (and thus shelf life-extending) cloves. Creole, which is actually a strain of Silverskin, has a sweet, mild taste and reddish-purple cloves.

north eastern belle

Alison Barshak, a self-taught chef, is a native of Lafayette Hills, Pennsylvania, who began her restaurant career after graduating from Boston University. She learned her craft in some of the Philadelphia area's best kitchens, including Rollers Restaurant and Market, Apropos Restaurant and Central Bar & Grille, but her notional reputation was made as the debut chef at Striped Bass, which John Mariani of Esquire named "Best New Restaurant" in 1994. After a successful run at Striped Bass, she left to open Venus and the Cowboy, also in Philadelphia, then moved up to New York, worn down by the urging of a former employer, to consult on the opening of the Maritime restaurant, in Rockefeller Center.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

"I'd initially said, 'I don't want to move to New York, and I don't want a seafood restaurant.' I did it as a favor. After Venus and the Cowboy closed, I just wanted to chill out. I finally said that I'd do it for four months as a consultant. The next day the New York Times ran a story saying that I was the chef." Barshak lived up to her four-month commitment, then returned to Pennsylvania. "On the one hand, I'm glad I did it, glad I got to live in New York. On the other hand, it was not the right vehicle for me. There was no clear vision of what the partners wanted. So I learned a lot. I learned that I don't want to be the chef of a 200-seat restaurant, working for four different people with four different opinions."

In 2001, Barshak opened Alison Cafe in Cedars, Pennsylvania, which, with its 28 seats, certainly satisfied her desire for a smaller room and total autonomy. "It was really tight, but we had this great outdoor patio that added 60 seats in spring, summer and fall," says Barshak. Her customers liked the patio so much that they convinced her to tent the entire thing and outfit it with heaters for the winter months. "People loved 'the bubble," she recalls. "It was really campy and fun, and fortunately that first winter we only got one snowstorm. But the next year it rained and snowed a lot more, and it was just too much. I was starting to feel like a weather forecaster, constantly worrying about it."

After two years in Cedars, Barshak moved operations to Alison at Blue Bell, a larger but still cozy 60-seat space that won three "bells" (the equivalent of stars) from the Philadelphia Inquirer's Craig LaBan, who called it 'one of the biggest culinary comebacks in recent years."

Barshak says that her food is international, incorporating flavors from Asia, Latin America, Europe, the Middle East and the American Southwest. "I travel a lot, so my food is an interpretation of places I've been," she says. "I remember flavors, smells, and textures. I don't believe I do fusion food. I try to stay true to indigenous flavors, but I don't copy. I live with an experience and then integrate it into my menu in terms of what makes sense and how it can be executed in the kitchen."

Her profit-minded colleagues may be surprised to learn that Barshak retains a full-time pastry chef for her modest restaurant, but she says, "I want my customers to get a good pastry product. We sell an incredible amount of desserts. They're just good, fresh and from scratch. Where do you go anymore to get a good dessert? You can't go to the supermarket. They don't use real ingredients. Customers pay x dollars for an entree, and then I'm supposed to take a cake out of the freezer? If you can put that product on the plate, what's to stop you from buying a frozen entree and heating it up for your customers?"

When she's not in the kitchen, Barshak enjoys dining in restaurants with those customers who have become her friends. "I don't want to say that it's not about the food when I go out with 'civilians,' but it's about the total experience. Not criticizing the food, but being there with a group of people. A lot of chefs will go out with other chefs and dissect. It's not about that for other people. I've learned that and it's made the restaurant a better place. Going from being a chef to an owner is pretty amazing and challenging. People will say to me, 'Do you miss cooking?' But dealing with other issues in the restaurant allows me to be a better cook, chef, and owner because I see a process, and I see problems, and I have to work through different issues and become better at what I do. Interacting with customers and seeing things from their point of view is extremely important."

Lamb Manti with Yogurt Sauce, Brown Butter and Pine Nuts (Serves 4)

Cabernet Franc

Hosmer Winery

Ovid, New York 2003

For the manti dough: In bowl, whisk together egg, water and salt. Mound flour on work surface and make well in center. Pour egg mixture into well and gradually mix in flour with hands or wooden spoon to form stiff dough. Knead dough 15 minutes. Lightly coat inside of separate bowl with butter and place dough in bowl. Cover and let rest one hour. Divide dough into three places and knead each piece into ball. Cover with damp cloth and let rest 30 minutes.

For the manti: In bowl, gently mix lamb, onions and mint, and season with salt and pepper. Using pasta rolling machine or rolling pin, roll one portion dough into very thin sheet. Cut dough into 1-inch squares. Place small amount of filling on each square and fold into triangles, pinching edges to seal. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Place manti on sheet pan, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the yogurt sauce: In bowl, whisk together yogurt and garlic. Season with salt and set aside.

For the browned butter: In small saucepan, heat butter over medium heat until golden brown. Stir in chili powder and keep warm.

To serve: Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Cook manti until they float, about 1 1/2 minutes. Drain and place in bowl. Top with yogurt sauce and browned butter. Garnish with pine nuts and mint and serve.

For the manti dough:

1 egg
1/2 cup water
1/4 teaspoon salt
9 ounces all-purpose flour
1/2 ounce butter

For the manti:

7 ounces ground lamb
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped mint leaves
Manti dough, from above
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the yogurt sauce:

4 cloves garlic, peeled and mashed into paste
24 ounces Greek-style yogurt
Salt to taste

For the browned butter:

3 ounces butter
3/4 teaspoon ancho chili powder

For the garnish:

Toasted pine nuts
Small mint leaves

Sesame-Fried Squid with Panisse Croutons and Tahini-Lemon Sauce (Serves 4)

Sauvignon Blanc

Cakebread Cellars

Rutherford, California 2002

For the harissa: In saucepan, bring water and chilis to boil, cover and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit 30 minutes. Drain, discarding liquid. Seed and finely chop chills. In blender or food processor fitted with metal blade, combine chills, bell peppers, garlic, coriander, cumin, caraway, juice, salt and pepper. Puree until smooth. Slowly blend in oil to emulsify. Adjust seasoning and set aside.

For the tahini sauce: In bowl, whisk together tahini, water, garlic and juice. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until 30 minutes before serving. (Note: do not use food processor.)

For the lemon vinaigrette: In bowl, whisk together juice, salt and pepper. Whisk in oil and set aside.

For the panisse croutons: In small pot, whisk together flour and water until well-combined. Stir in oil and cook over medium heat, stirring, until thick. Season with salt and pepper. Pour onto oiled sheet pan and let cool. When cool, cut into 1/2-inch cubes.

For the squid: In deep-fryer, heat oil to 375 degrees. In large bowl, combine flours, sesame seeds, cayenne and paprika and mix well. Dredge squid in flour mixture and fry with croutons until golden. Drain on paper towels and season with salt. Transfer to separate large bowl and add watercress and mint. Drizzie with vinaigrette to taste and toss to coat. Arrange on plate and top with zest. Drizzle with harissa and tahini sauce and serve.

For the harissa:

2 cups water
1 ounce dried New Mexico chili peppers
2 red bell peppers, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
3/4 teaspoon toasted ground cumin seeds
2 teaspoons ground caraway seeds
Juice of 1 lemon
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 cup olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the tahini sauce:

3 ounces tahini
1/2 cup water
1 clove garlic, peeled and mashed into paste
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the lemon vinaigrette:

Juice of 1 1/2 lemons
1 cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the panisse croutons:

2 cups water
1 1/2 ounces chickpea flour
1 1/2 tablespoons oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the squid:

2 quarts canola oil
9 ounces all-purpose flour
1 1/2 ounces chickpea flour
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 1/2 tablespoons cayenne pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons paprika
1 1/2 pounds squid, cleaned, tentacles separated and bodies cut into
  rings
Panisse croutons, from above
2 bunches watercress, stems removed
1 small bunch mint leaves
Lemon vinaigrette
Salt to taste

For the garnish:

Julienned lemon zest

Steamed Clams with Truffled Croutons and Artichoke Aioli (Serves 4)

Gruner Veltliner Kellerberg

F. X. Pichler

Wachau, Austria 2002

For the truffled croutons: In small pot, combine grits, water and salt, and bring to boil. Reduce to simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until thick, about 35 minutes. Stir in butters and season with salt and pepper. Pour onto lightly oiled sheet pan and let cool. In small pot, heat oil to 375 degrees. Cut grits into 1/2-inch cubes and fry in batches until golden. Drain on paper towels and season lightly with salt and pepper.

For the artichoke aioli: In small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, artichokes, garlic, and juice. Season with salt and pepper. For the fried artichokes: In small pot, heat oil to 375 degrees. Fry artichokes until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.

For the clams: In large pot, combine wine, broth, garlic and shallots and bring to boil. Add clams and steam until they just open. Remove clams and bring broth mixture to boil. Stir in tomato, juice and butters. Add herbs and season with salt and pepper. To serve: Place clams in shallow bowl with broth. Top with croutons and fried artichokes. Drizzle with aioli and serve.

For the truffled croutons:

6 ounces coarse white grits, rinsed and drained
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/2 ounce unsalted butter
1 1/2 ounces black truffle butter
2 cups canola oil
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the artichoke aioli:

1 cup mayonnaise
2 ounces pureed artichoke hearts
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the fried artichokes:

2 cups canola oil
1 artichoke heart, thinly sliced lengthwise on mandoline
Salt to taste

For the clams:

1 1/4 cups white wine
2 1/2 cups clam broth
6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
5 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
60 littleneck clams, scrubbed
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped
Juice of 1 1/2 lemons
2 1/2 ounces butter
4 ounces black truffle butter
3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley leaves
3 tablespoons finely chopped chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Almond-Crusted Monkfish with Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette (Serves 6)

Dry Riesling

Dr. Konstantin Frank

Hammondsport, New York 2005

For the roasted garlic vinaigrette: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place garlic on foil and drizzle with one tablespoon oil. Seal foil and roast until soft, about 35 minutes. Let cool, separate cloves and peel. Place half of garlic in blender and add vinegar, cider, juice, salt and pepper. Blend until smooth. Slowly add remaining oil to emulsify. Reserve remaining garlic for garnish.

For the romesco sauce: In saute pan, heat two tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add bread and garlic and fry until bread is golden on both sides. Remove from heat. In saucepan, bring water and chilis to boil, cover and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit 30 minutes to soften chilis. Drain, discarding liquid. Seed and coarsely chop chilis. In food processor fitted with metal blade, puree bread, garlic, almonds, chilis, remaining oil, lemon juice and lime juice. Add peppers and tomatoes and puree until smooth. Transfer to bowl, stir in paprika and season with salt and pepper.

For the potatoes: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss potatoes with five tablespoons oil and roast until soft, about 35 minutes. In nonstick pan, heat remaining oil over medium-high heat. Add potatoes, shallots and chorizo and saute until shallots are golden. Add pepper flakes, season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the monkfish: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In bowl, combine almonds, breadcrumbs, parsley, salt and pepper. Season fillets with salt and pepper, dredge in flour, dip in egg and coat with breadcrumb mixture. In saute pan, heat two tablespoons oil over high heat. Add two fillets and cook until browned, one minute per side. Transfer to sheet pan. Repeat with remaining oil and fillets. Place fillets in oven until cooked through, about three minutes.

To serve: In bowl, combine spinach and frisee and toss with vinaigrette. Add potato mixture and toss to combine. Place salad on plate and top with monkfish. Garnish with roasted garlic and romesco sauce and serve.

For the roasted garlic vinaigrette:

1 head garlic
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon apple cider
1 tablespoon tomato juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the romesco sauce:

1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 slice white bread, crust removed
2 dried New Mexico chili peppers
3/4 cup water
3 ounces almonds
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Juice of 1/2 lime
2 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled and seeded
6 tomatoes, roasted, peeled and seeded
1 teaspoon paprika
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the potatoes:

6 red bliss potatoes, cut into wedges
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
4 ounces chorizo, coarsely chopped
Crushed red pepper flakes to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the monkfish:

8 ounces sliced almonds, toasted and finely chopped
4 ounces breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley leaves
1 tablespoon salt, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
6 5-ounce monkfish fillets
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
3 eggs, beaten
6 tablespoons olive oil

To serve:

3 cups spinach leaves
3 cups frisee

Halibut with Roasted Garlic Grits and Shiitake Salad (Serves 4)

Pinot Noir "Grace Vineyard"

Domaine Serene

Willamette Valley, Oregon 2003

For the mushroom broth: In large pot, heat oil over high heat. Add mushrooms and cook until browned and releasing moisture. Add onions and garlic and cook until softened. Stir in wine and vinegar and simmer about three minutes. Add water, thyme, peppercorns, bay leaf and parsley. Bring to boil and reduce by 3/4. Strain through fine-mesh sieve, season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the roasted garlic grits: In medium pot, combine grits, water and salt. Bring to boil, reduce to simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until thick, about 35 minutes. Stir in garlic and butters. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the shiitake salad: In saute pan, heat 1/4 cup oil over high heat. Saute mushrooms until browned. Transfer mushrooms to bowl and set aside. Wipe out pan and heat remaining oil over medium heat. Add leeks, cook until softened and add to mushrooms. Stir in vinegar and add chives and ramps. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the halibut: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In large saute pan, heat oil over high heat. Season fillets with salt and pepper and cook until browned on both sides. Transfer to sheet pan and finish cooking in oven, about three minutes.

To serve: In shallow bowl, arrange halibut and mushroom salad on top of grits. Spoon broth around grits and serve.

For the mushroom broth:

1/4 cup olive oil
3 pounds button mushrooms
1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
3/4 cup white wine
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 quart water
2 sprigs thyme
5 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
10 parsley stems
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the roasted garlic grits:

6 ounces white grits, rinsed and drained
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/4 cup pureed roasted garlic
1 ounce unsalted butter
1 ounce black truffle butter
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the shiitake salad:

1/2 cup olive oil
12 ounces shiitake mushroom caps
1 large leek, white part only, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
2 bunches ramps, trimmed, blanched and refreshed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the halibut:

6 tablespoons canola oil
4 6-ounce halibut fillets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

big borough of dreams

Charles Kiely began his career at the age of 14, as a dishwasher in a small town outside of Boston, Massachusetts. After high school, he took a garde manger position at in a small Boston restaurant and never looked back. He recalls that cooking was "an addiction that kept growing and growing." He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and cooked at Sign of the Dove, Arizona 206, Gotham Bar and Grill, Nosmo King, One Fifth Avenue, Abbey, and Knickerbocker Bar & Grill in New York, and Michel Bras and Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier, France. While at Savoy, in New York, he met Sharon Pachter, who would eventually become his partner in business and in life. Pachter took a less traditional path into the restaurant business, working in architecture and interior design for a number of years. After the economic crash of 1987, construction ground to a halt and Pachter was forced to look for alternatives. She took a catering job, then went on to work at The Nassau Inn in Princeton, N.J., first in the hotel's casual restaurant, and later in to its fine dining establishment. In 1992, she moved to New York and answered "what seemed like the only approachable, friendly ad in the paper, for a job at Savoy, which was the most fortunate thing that ever happened to me."

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Working at Savoy had a profound influence on both Kiely and Pachter. In Peter Hoffman's kitchen, they internalized the chef/owner's reverence for the raw ingredient and his market-driven approach to cooking, long before these things became a go-to cliche. They learned how to care for their product "and how to prepare it in a way that just makes it shine without covering it up or complicating it too much," says Kiely. "More than anything else, that's what dictates what we are; the importance of the raw ingredient. 'Grocery' is the name of the restaurant because we wanted something that implied the importance of where it comes from." Alfred Portale of Gotham Bar and Grill was another big influence on Kiely and Pachter, who both worked in his kitchen. "It was such a great training ground to learn pressure, speed, volume, and maintain that quality at the same time," says Pachter. "That's why Gotham is still around, and still fabulous."

In 1999, the couple rented a small space in the up-and-coming Carroll Gardens neighborhood in Brooklyn and, after making some minor cosmetic changes, opened The Grocery. The 2004 Zagat Guide to New York City Restaurants, released in October 2003, gave the restaurant a 28 for food, making it one of the top seven restaurants in New York. The Zagat coup meant an immediate and overwhelming jump in business for the modest, 13-table restaurant. With only one phone line, Kiely and Pachter were forced to have incoming calls forwarded to their home in order to free up the business line for credit card approvals. Some might have taken the opportunity to expand or move into Manhattan, but with Kiely and Pachter still insisting on personally delivering an amuse bouche to each diner, such a move seems highly unlikely. "Every minute the door is unlocked, we're here making sure that everybody walks away happy and satisfied and feeling like they were well taken care of. On top of all the details of the execution of the food, our customer service is what I think really has given us the longevity," says Kiely.

When the conversation turns to garlic, Kiely becomes enthusiastic. "I eat an incredible amount of raw garlic. It's good for my heart and my triglycerides and cholesterol." Pachter adds, "Any time there's somebody around him coughing, I see the full cheek and then I hear the crunch ..." At The Grocery, they eschew those ubiquitous jugs of peeled cloves in favor of organically grown heirloom varieties. "The organic stuff has a great sweetness and aroma in the front but then is much spicier and harder. The stuff that comes from the jar has a diluted quality," says Kiely.

Although chefs have lately been naming the provenance of every last piece of meat, produce and cheese on their menus, you won't find paragraph-long menu descriptions at The Grocery. As for the quality that's implied by the practice? "It's part of the product," says Pachter, "and hopefully you'll taste it in the food."

Pan-Roasted Squid Stuffed with Garlic Croutons and Shrimp (Serves 4)

Alvarinho

Auratus

Minho, Portugal 2004

For the parsley oil: In blender, combine parsley and oil; puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

For the stuffing: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss bread with two tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper. Toast in oven until golden brown. In saute pan, heat remaining oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic, shallots and shrimp and saute until shrimp are just cooked through. Season with salt and pepper, transfer to bowl and stir in croutons.

For the squid: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Fill squid bodies with stuffing, seal open ends with toothpicks and season outside with salt and pepper. In saute pan, heat olive oil over high heat. Add stuffed squid and sear until browned on all sides. Transfer to sheet pan and place in oven five minutes to finish cooking. In small pot, heat canola oil to 375 degrees. Dredge tentacles in flour and fry in oil until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.

To serve: Arrange stuffed squid and tentacles on plate and drizzle with lemon juice. Garnish with frisee and parsley oil and serve.

For the parsley oil:

1/2 cup parsley leaves, blanched and refreshed
1/4 cup canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the stuffing:

3 ounces sourdough bread, cut into 1/4inch cubes
1/4 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
8 ounces small shrimp, peeled and deveined
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the squid:

8 squid, cleaned, bodies and tentacles separated
Stuffing, from above
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cups canola oil
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Frisee

Cuttlefish Bagna Cauda (Serves 4)

Rose "Le Printemps"

Copain

Mendocino, California 2005

For the roasted potatoes: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Toss potatoes in oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast until potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Halve lengthwise and keep warm.

For the bagna cauda: In small saute pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until softened, about one minute. Remove pan from heat and stir in anchovies. Season with juice and pepper and keep warm.

For the cuttlefish: In heavy-bottomed skillet, heat oil over high heat. Score outer surface of cuttlefish bodies, season with salt and pepper, and sear one minute on each side. Remove from pan and slice bodies crosswise.

To serve: Toss together cuttlefish and potatoes and arrange on plate with lettuce. Drizzle with bagna cauda, garnish with peppers and serve.

For the roasted potatoes:

1 2 fingerling potatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the bagna cauda:

1/4 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
6 anchovies, coarsely chopped
Lemon juice, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the cuttlefish:

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cuttlefish, cleaned, tentacles separated and bodies halved lengthwise
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Baby red romaine lettuce
Diced roasted red peppers

Roasted Beets with Goat Cheese Ravioli (Serves 4)

Sancerre "Les Boucaults"

Domaine Pastou

Loire, France 2004

For the ravioli: In mixer fitted with paddle attachment, combine flour, egg, yolk, water and oil and mix on low speed until dough forms. Transfer dough to floured work surface and knead until smooth. Let rest 30 minutes. In bowl, combine cheese and sour cream, season with salt and pepper and transfer to pastry bag fitted with large round tip. Roll dough through pasta rolling machine from thickest to thinnest setting. Pipe 12 portions of cheese mixture onto half of pasta. Fold over to cover with remaining pasta, pressing around filling to seal. Cut ravioli into 1 1/2-inch squares. Place ravioli on parchment-lined sheet pans, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the beet sauce: In medium saucepan, heat oil over low heat. Add shallots, garlic, thyme and rosemary and cook until shallots and garlic are softened. Add beets, sugar, vinegar and enough water to cover and bring to simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 90 minutes. Remove from heat and puree with hand-held immersion blender. Strain through fine-mesh sieve, season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the beets: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place yellow and red beets on separate sheets of foil, drizzle with oil and season with salt and pepper. Wrap tightly and roast until tender, about 45 minutes. Let cool slightly and remove skins. Slice yellow beets crosswise, dice red beets and keep warm.

For the fried shallots: In saucepan, heat oil to 350 degrees. Coat shallots with flour, shaking off excess. Fry until golden brown and drain on paper towels. Season with salt.

To serve: Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Add ravioli and simmer until edges of pasta are tender. Drain well. In saute pan, heat butter over medium heat until golden brown. Saute ravioli until golden brown. Arrange yellow beets on plate with ravioli. Top ravioli with beets sauce, diced red beets and shallots. Garnish with nuts and chives and serve.

For the ravioli:

4 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
1 egg
1 egg yolk
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon canola oil
8 ounces soft goat cheese
4 ounces sour cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the beet sauce:

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 spring thyme leaves
1 spring rosemary leaves
2 large red beets, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the beets:

4 medium yellow beets, trimmed
4 medium red beets, trimmed
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the fried shallots:

2 cups canola oil
4 shallots, peeled, thinly sliced and separated into rings
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Salt to taste

To serve:

I ounce butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Toasted pine nuts
Chopped garlic chives

Duck Leg Adobo (Serves 4)

Moinette Saison Ale

Brasserie Dupont

Tourpes, Beigium

For the duck legs: In heavy-bottomed pot, combine duck, vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, peppercorns and bay leaf. Add water to cover and bring to simmer. Simmer gently, skimming and discarding foam as necessary, until duck is tender but still intact. Carefully transfer duck to rack to cool. Strain cooking liquid though fine-mesh sieve and reserve garlic and peppercorns for garnish. Let liquid cool and remove fat. In saucepan, bring liquid to boil and reduce by three-quarters or to desired consistency. Season to taste and keep warm.

For the rice noodles: In tall-sided pot, heat oil to 375 degrees. Remove noodles from water and drain well. Working in batches, fry in oil until crisp. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.

For the radicchio: Preheat grill. Brush radicchio with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill briefly, just until marked, and remove.

To serve: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In saute pan, heat oil over high heat. Place duck, skin side down, in pan and reduce heat to medium. Cook until skin is crisp. Turn duck and transfer to over to heat through. Arrange duck on plate with sauce, noodles and radicchio. Garnish with reserved garlic and peppercorns and serve.

For the duck legs:

4 whole Pekin duck legs
2 cups white vinegar
1/2 cup soy sauce
20 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Salt to taste

For the rice noodles:

1 quart canola oil
3 ounces thin rice noodles, soaked in cold water
Salt to taste

For the radicchio:

2 heads radicchio, cut into wedges
3 tablespoons canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

To serve:

3 tablespoons olive oil
Duck legs, from above

Black Sea Bass with Brussels Sprouts and Wheat Berries (Serves 4)

For the walnut-garlic vinaigrette: In bowl, combine vinegar and juice and slowly whisk in oil. Stir in garlic, walnuts, egg and parsley, season with salt and pepper and set aside.

For the wheat berries: In small pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and cook until softened. Stir in wheat berries and water and bring to boil. Cover and simmer until berries are firm but tender. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the Brussels sprouts: In saute pan, heat oil over high heat. Add sprouts, cut-side down, and sear until browned. Add water and let sprouts cook until tender. Season with salt and pepper.

For the black sea bass: Season fillets with salt and pepper In saute pan, heat oil over high heat. Season fillets and sear, skin-side down, until browned and crisp. Turn to finish cooking.

To serve: Arrange wheat berries and sprouts on plate. Top with fish and walnut-garlic vinaigrette and serve.

For the garlic-walnut vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 ounces toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped
1 hard-boiled egg, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup coarsely chopped parsley leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the wheat berries:

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup wheat berries
1 1/4 cups water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the Brussels sprouts:

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 2 ounces Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise
1/4 cup water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the black sea bass:

3 tablespoons olive oil
4 4-ounce fillets black sea bass, skin on and scales removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste