Savory & sassy SPICES.

Byline: Randi Bjornstad The Register-Guard

If variety is the spice of life, as the saying goes, it's just as true to turn it around and say that when it comes to food, spice is the variety of life.

It's been that way for thousands of years, and it hasn't changed yet. From the point of view of those who prepare food and those who eat it, spices make the meal.

In ancient times, that meant not only enhanced flavor that made otherwise tough meats and other primitive foods more palatable, but also preservative qualities that made food-gathering easier and eating nonrefrigerated foods less dangerous.

Today, it means tailoring spice mixes - such as garam masala from India, berbere from Ethiopia, five-spice from China or Morocco's incredibly hot harissa - in well-stocked modern kitchens, to capture the cuisines of exotic places.

But spices have an intriguing, even sometimes treacherous, history that goes far beyond the palate. Once more valuable than gold, ancient sailors and camel drivers - often beset by bad weather, seafaring pirates or landlubbing brigands - risked their lives to transport now-taken-for-granted pepper, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg across the Indian Ocean or overland through mountains and deserts to the Middle East and Europe.

Slave traders rounded up human chattel to exchange for spices, possibly the most famous example being the Old Testament Joseph, who was sold - wearing his coat of many colors - to spice merchants by older brothers envious of their father's attachment to the young boy.

Some of the most famous people in the world had ties to the spice trade. According to the American Spice Trade Association, in about 570 A.D., Mohammed, the patriarch of Islam, married a wealthy widow involved in spice-trading. As his Islamic disciples fanned out throughout Asia, they had the dual responsibilities of spreading the religion and gathering up spices.

So valuable did spices become, it's said that when Rome was under siege by Alaric the Visigoth, the ransom included 3,000 pounds of pepper. European nations - especially Portugal, Italy, Holland and England - sent explorers on spice-seeking expeditions, which more than paid for themselves if and when they returned with the goods.

Even the United States got into the frenzy of spice trading, according to the spice association, first in the person of a sea captain named Jonathan Carnes, who sailed from Salem, Mass., in 1778 and established his own trading contacts to avoid the monopoly then enjoyed by the Dutch.

Shortly after, American ships began making incredible 24,000 mile round-trip voyages to Sumatra, but the U.S. spice trade, beset by incessant piracy, eventually dwindled away.

Now, of course, spices from all over the world are as close as the nearest supermarket's baking section. The cinnamon that people used to fight and die for, we sprinkle on our toast without a second thought.

We also take pre-mixed curry and chili powders for granted, as well as the common herb mixtures such as Italian seasoning and the lavender-flavored herbes de Provence.

Learning how to mix our own herbs and spices - or which ready-to-use blends belong to what kinds of cuisines - opens up whole new vistas for home cooks, but here are a few tips for using these flavor enhancers:

Spices and herbs lose their potency over time, so make them in small batches that will be used within three months or so.

Store herbs and spices away from heat, light and moisture to avoid deterioration of flavor.

Label packets or jars with contents and the purchase date; after they've been in a cupboard for awhile, it's hard to figure out which is which.

To increase the intensity of spices, "toast" them for a minute or two over low heat in a skillet - just until you can smell them - before use.

Wear kitchen gloves when cutting, coring and seeding chili peppers, and wash utensils and hands well afterward. Never touch the face or eyes after handling hot peppers.

Basic Curry Powder

6 dried red chili peppers, seeds removed

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon cardamom seeds

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 cinnamon stick, 1 inch long, broken into pieces

10 fresh curry leaves

1 tablespoon ground turmeric 

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Combine the chilies, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds, black peppercorns, cardamom seeds, fennel seeds, mustard seeds and cinnamon stick in a small saucepan over low heat. Dry-roast, stirring constantly, until the spices darken slightly. Add the curry leaves and dry-roast 3 minutes longer. Allow to cool.

Combine all ingredients in a spice grinder or food processor and grind to a powder.

Source: "Adriana's Spice Caravan" by Adriana and Rochelle Zabarkes (Storey Communications Inc., 1997).

Caribbean Curry Powder

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 tablespoon allspice berries

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon anise seeds

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 teaspoon poppy seeds

2 tablespoons ground turmeric

1 tablespoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground fenugreek 

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Combine the cumin seeds, allspice, coriander, anise, cloves, mustard and poppy seeds in a small skillet over low heat. Dry-roast for 2 minutes, until the mustard seeds start jumping. Let cool; transfer to a spice grinder or food processor and blend to a fine powder. Add the turmeric, ginger, fenugreek and cinnamon, and mix well.

Source: "Adriana's Spice Caravan."

Chili Powder

3 ancho chilies, stemmed, seeded and sliced

3 cascabel chilies, stemmed, seeded and sliced

3 dried arbol chilies, stemmed, seeded and sliced

2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds

2 tablespoons garlic powder

1 tablespoon dried oregano 

1 teaspoon smoked paprika 

Place all of the chilies and the cumin into a medium nonstick saute pan or cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Cook, moving the pan constantly, until you can smell the aroma of the cumin toasting, about 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.

Place the cooled chilies and cumin into a blender, along with the garlic powder, oregano and paprika. Process to a fine powder. Allow the powder to settle for at least 1 minute before removing the lid of the blender. Chili powder can be stored in an airtight container for up to 6 months.

Source: www.foodnetwork .com/food/recipes/

Cajun Spice Mix

1/4 cup salt

2 tablespoons cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons paprika

4 teaspoons onion powder

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon freshly ground white pepper

1 tablespoon garlic powder

2 teaspoons dried basil

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon ground mustard

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

Combine all ingredients in an airtight jar. Store in a cool, dry place out of direct light for up to 4 months. Use in place of salt in almost any Cajun dish.

Makes about 3/4 cup.

Source: www.recipesource .com

Mansion Barbecue Spice Mix

2 tablespoons paprika

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1 tablespoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Mix all ingredients together. Use as a rub on beef cuts such as T-bone, tenderloin, top sirloin and top loin (strip) steaks.

Enough for about 6 servings.

Source: Chef Dean Fearing of The Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas, Texas, via HomeCooking .com.

Old Bay Seasoning 

1 tablespoon celery seed

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

6 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon whole cardamom

1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

4 whole cloves

1 teaspoon Hungarian paprika

1/4 teaspoon mace

In a spice grinder or small food processor, combine all of the ingredients. Grind to a powder and store in a small glass jar. Use in crab cakes and other seafood dishes.

Source: www.recipesource .com

Berbere Paste

(Ethiopia)

1 small onion, coarsely chopped

4 cloves garlic, peeled

1 cup water, divided

2 tablespoons ground cayenne

2 tablespoons ground paprika

4 whole cardamom pods

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seed

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

14 dried Piquin chilies, stems removed

3 tablespoons oil

Combine the onions, garlic, 1/2 cup water, cayenne pepper and paprika in a blender and puree until smooth.

Toast the cardamom, cumin, peppercorns and fenugreek in a hot skillet, shaking constantly, for a couple of minutes, until they start to crackle and "pop." Grind these spices to form a powder. Put the powder and the remaining spices and chilies into the blender with the onion mixture and continue to blend. Slowly add the remaining water and oil and blend until smooth.

Simmer the sauce over medium heat for 15 minutes to blend flavors and thicken the sauce.

Serve sparingly as a condiment with grilled meats or poultry, or add a small amount to soups or stews. Yields 1 cup.

Source: "The Whole Chile Pepper Book" by Dave DeWitt and Nancy Gerlach (Little Brown & Company, 1990), via HomeCooking.com.

Chinese Five-Spice Powder

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

36 whole cloves

12 inches of stick cinnamon, broken into pieces

2 tablespoons fennel seed

12 whole star anise 

Put spices together in a blender or spice grinder and pulverize into powder. Store in a cool place in an air-tight container.

Source: www.recipesource .com

Garam Masala (India)

1 teaspoon cardamom pods

2 dried bay leaves

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

2 cinnamon sticks, broken into small pieces

1 whole nutmeg

Toast all spices in a small saute pan over medium heat, about 5 minutes or until fragrant. Cool in pan. Transfer to a spice grinder or food processor and grind to a fine powder.

Makes about 5 tablespoons.

Source: www .fineindiandining.com

Harissa

(North African Hot Spice Blend)

4 large dried guajillo or other chili peppers, quartered, seeded and stemmed

1 teaspoon crushed, dried mint leaves

1/3 cup hot water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon caraway seeds

8 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

Soak the chilies and mint leaves in the hot water for 30 minutes, or until softened. With a slotted spoon, transfer the chilies and mint to a food processor; discard the water.

Add the remaining ingredients and blend to a smooth paste. Common to Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco, harissa adds blistering heat to any dish.

Source: "Adriana's Spice Caravan."

Moroccan Spice Mix

Zest of 1 orange

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons crushed red chili pepper

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon honey

Mix all ingredients together thoroughly.

Source: Life Research Universal.

Sloppy Joe Seasoning Mix

1 tablespoon instant minced onion

1 teaspoon dried green pepper flakes

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cornstarch 

1/2 teaspoon instant minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon celery seed

1/4 teaspoon chili powder

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl until evenly distributed. Spoon mixture onto a 6-inch square of foil and fold to make airtight. Label with date and contents. Store in a cool, dry place; use within 6 months.

Yields 3 tablespoons, enough for 6 servings of Sloppy Joes.

To make Sloppy Joes: Brown 1 pound lean ground beef in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Drain excess grease. Add Sloppy Joe seasoning mix, 1/2 cup water, 1 (8-ounce) can of tomato sauce; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve over toasted hamburger buns.

Makes 6 servings.

Source: "Make-a-Mix" by Karine Eliason (HarperPerennial Library, 1978).

Simple Seasonings

Apple Pie Spice: 4 parts cinnamon, 2 parts nutmeg, 1 part cardamom; grind to a powder.

Poultry Seasoning: Equal parts dried sage, thyme and marjoram or oregano, crumbled or powdered.

Pumpkin Pie Spice: 4 parts cinnamon, 2 parts ginger, 1 part allspice, 1 part nutmeg or equal parts cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, mace and cloves; grind ingredients together.

Source: www.cooksthesaurus .com

CAPTION(S):

Spices make the meal: Clockwise from upper left are Cardamom pods; mixed pepper; cumin (in bowl); turmeric; whole and ground chilies; coriander seeds; star anise; whole nutmeg; stick and ground cinnamon; and crystallized ginger. ALL ABOUT SPICES